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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at a 2007 m5 with 98k at a private dealer. They're asking 25k it's six speed manual. What do you all think? From what I found, it has a small coolant leak at the temp sensor on the radiator and I saw a quarter size engine oil leak from where it was sitting.
 

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What other documentation of history can the dealer provide? No history or documentation, no way I would buy.

I have a 2007 6speed with 111,000 miles , that has been flawless, BUT...I've spent quite a bit of money staying ahead of any maintenance issues.

In my last 90,000 miles, as wear items, I have gone through a couple sets of lower control arm bushings, wheel bearings, alternator, rod bearings, motor mounts, diff mounts, a set of rotors, three sets of spark plugs, multiple sets of coolant/brake/diff/tranny fluid flushes. Anything rubber, like belts, hoses, axel boots, and mounts, have been replaced. I'm about to do my fuel pump and filter (just because) at my next oil change.

Personally, I would be reluctant to purchase any car without documented history.

Check out the main e60 section for more information:

E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
 

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At the very very least, have a PPI performed at by a BMW ///M specialist shop.

To start, search the following on this board:
Rod bearings
BlackStone or Black Stone
Alternator
VANOS
SMG

Good luck in your search. Go in, eyes wide open. You're buying a v10 formula 1 engine that is not cheap to maintain (properly). My warranty expired at 50,000 miles. Much of the maintenance I performed, I came out of pocket -- and would not have been covered. When I hit 50,000, I decided to drop my coverage. In the last 60,000 miles, my s85 has been flawless -- becuase I have stayed well ahead of any deferred maintenance.

Edit: Their price seems high with ZERO history. You should check out the classifieds on the Board. There are well documented examples for sale right now in the classifieds.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the help! For the ones who have changed the rod bearing, do you also change the main crankshaft bearings? I wonder how those hold up.
 
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