2007 E60 M5 Diagnostic help
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1,395 Posts
something within the piston has to be magnetic, otherwise it could not work with the hall effect sensors. regardless that should cause problems based in the theory that the Jim mentioned. Well unless the two different pistons miraculously have the same exact magnetic field.
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15 Posts
Ok, I figured I would join in on this one because my e60 is having a very similar issue with the smg. Brief history new clutch new flywheel bled numerous times at bmw dealership. Still pulls code 5506 clutch valve with intermittent red cogs that only got worse until the car would not shift to 1st or reverse even when shifter was engaged. My indy bled again and it ran for a week b4 the code came back. he now has the transmission out himself and replaced clutch control valve isolated and rewrapped the wires on the harness which were partially exposed and replaced the larger harness on top of the trans. All this to no avail. He is now going to replace the smg ecu and I will give you guys an update once I have the results.
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1,395 Posts
I think it's more helpful from a thread/problem discussion point of view to create a new topic with all your issues and steps since it seems you've already spend quite a bit of time and money. 5506 code is quite a specific error and there's only so many things that can cause it, and it doesn't seem to have been remediated by the most expensive part.
Hello Tim5e60, I already replied to one post of yours on other thread. I know as per ISTA test plan to change ECU at last resort, but that is only if you confirmed you have done sequence of testing. I want to see what is the clutch valve data on the status page from ISTA/INPA and to follow the guidlines I included and report the results, also to wiggle the wiring and connectors while viewing the status page for intermittent connection. INPA has more detailes why the fault code triggered. There is also a SB refer to update the SMG ECU but that if you have fault 4F80 ( transmission) and 4F82, 4F82 is for not possible to engage R/1st gear shift rod for example, you have different fault code related to other gear shift rod pair, so the fix in this particulare fault code is to update the ECU, that only if you don't have other fault codes or other SMG failed component. It is important to read fault code whenever the SMG fail to shift gear to know what triggered that code, where and how to trace the problem. If you start replacing the ECU, just do it and lets see what happen and report back. If this the case I would reflash the ECU, I think it is the same as replacing the ECU if the ECU is not damaged, I doubt it is damage because it should thrw a code for that, so start with ECU reflash.
With in depth troubleshooting and solid determination of what was really causing the mysterious transmission malfunction, it is finally solved when I found the rod for R/1st gears piston was installed in a wrong way, it was flipped 180 degree which caused it to be stuck and couldn't move as requested. the piston installed in the correct position and the upper block cleaned and reinstalled back on the gearbox.
![947534]()
During my final troubleshooting the SMG pump motor was burned and damaged as it didn't stop during the block bleeding before I decide to drop the transmission for mechanical investigation. When I dropped the transmission I removed the motor and applied 12V to see if it runs but it didn't then I checked the wiring and it was supplying 12V, so I opened the motor and it was burned, I didn't know what damaged the motor at the time of removal, but after the repair is done and new motor installation the diagnosis system upon starting the bleeding process I scanned for fault and finally the diagnosis system threw the code 5402 for a sticking SMG pump motor relay. I changed the relay and continued the bleeding.
![947538]()
New Motor installed
![947539]()
Ran all bleeding and 3 steps adaptation and the transmission adaptation was the most important as it was the one that didn't pass because of the jammed rod piston.
The car shifts all gears now and I am satisfied with the smoothness I am getting, I though have a plan sometime in the future to pull the transmission again to change the clutch support items like the throw out bearing, sleeve, pin, clutch fork and clutch valve O'rings for testing experience, I could have changed them while the box is down but I chose to change them separately to see what difference it would make, labor isn't an issue for me as I have installed a 2 post lift in my garage.
I now flipped the transmission page and turned over the engine page and other issues like the steering angel sensor and DSC, but I still will update whenever something rose up down the road.
During my final troubleshooting the SMG pump motor was burned and damaged as it didn't stop during the block bleeding before I decide to drop the transmission for mechanical investigation. When I dropped the transmission I removed the motor and applied 12V to see if it runs but it didn't then I checked the wiring and it was supplying 12V, so I opened the motor and it was burned, I didn't know what damaged the motor at the time of removal, but after the repair is done and new motor installation the diagnosis system upon starting the bleeding process I scanned for fault and finally the diagnosis system threw the code 5402 for a sticking SMG pump motor relay. I changed the relay and continued the bleeding.
New Motor installed
Ran all bleeding and 3 steps adaptation and the transmission adaptation was the most important as it was the one that didn't pass because of the jammed rod piston.
The car shifts all gears now and I am satisfied with the smoothness I am getting, I though have a plan sometime in the future to pull the transmission again to change the clutch support items like the throw out bearing, sleeve, pin, clutch fork and clutch valve O'rings for testing experience, I could have changed them while the box is down but I chose to change them separately to see what difference it would make, labor isn't an issue for me as I have installed a 2 post lift in my garage.
I now flipped the transmission page and turned over the engine page and other issues like the steering angel sensor and DSC, but I still will update whenever something rose up down the road.
Other problem I have had:
Steering angel sensor SZL is not responding and refusing to be calibrated with multiple fault codes. Fault codes associated with this malfunction:
By the SZL: 94C1 and 9501, by the DSC: D373 and 5E43.
I tried to clean the disk and LED inside the module but that didn't help, it might be was an issue but because the firmware was corrupted I had no chance to know, anyways.
After detailed investigation and based on the fault codes description I found that the SZL for some reason is not programmed and coded, so I managed to flash it and encoded it to the car configuration using winkfp and ncs expert. The fix was satisfactory and the module turned from red to green on ISTA ECU's tree, the calibration process went successful afterwards. All fault has been cleared and the DSC light extinguished
Other problem I found while inspecting the car is all four wheels was hair cracked so I took them off and send them to machine shop for repair balanced and reinstalled.
This step was done while waiting for the SMG and tune up parts.
Steering angel sensor SZL is not responding and refusing to be calibrated with multiple fault codes. Fault codes associated with this malfunction:
By the SZL: 94C1 and 9501, by the DSC: D373 and 5E43.
I tried to clean the disk and LED inside the module but that didn't help, it might be was an issue but because the firmware was corrupted I had no chance to know, anyways.
After detailed investigation and based on the fault codes description I found that the SZL for some reason is not programmed and coded, so I managed to flash it and encoded it to the car configuration using winkfp and ncs expert. The fix was satisfactory and the module turned from red to green on ISTA ECU's tree, the calibration process went successful afterwards. All fault has been cleared and the DSC light extinguished
Other problem I found while inspecting the car is all four wheels was hair cracked so I took them off and send them to machine shop for repair balanced and reinstalled.
This step was done while waiting for the SMG and tune up parts.
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4,397 Posts
107.3 bar - wow.
After getting the car for the first test drive, I was hit with the expected faults as I already have seen some of them them since the day I purchased the car but I deleted them before the first test drive.
- Misfires multiple cylinders. All kind of misfires fault codes, cylinders shut off, and limp mode activation codes.
+ Compression test performed on all cylinders, all tested at the high limit with less than 10% deviation between each others.
- Alternator over voltage, low charging and communication with DME issues. 278C, 279B, 2792, and 2AFE.
Alternator replaced with new Valeo alternator after replacing a new Valeo regulator which failed after 300-400 miles, I had communication issue with higher plus diode temperature then the whole alternator lost charging ability and shut down and stopped charging.
- Fuel pressure issues. Fault code: 27C1, 27CF, 27CE, 2788, and 27D0.
Fuel filter + Fuel pump pack replaced.
- Filling vacuum leak issue. fault codes 2737.
Fixed intake plenum rubber boot and missing clamp provided.
- Coolant thermostat. Fault code: 2B59.
Thermostat, both coolant temperature sensors replaced, and coolant flush.
- Fuel tank vent valve. Fault code: 27A6.
Both fuel tank vent valves replaced, connected sat aside fuel vent line.
- 2 Vanos solenoids failed the test. No Fault codes.
In progress for cleaning and seals replacement, and possible replacement.
- Bank 1 Vanos noise, and timing check, slight deviation between the actual and the nominal values.
In progress for complete timing check and bank 1 exhaust Vanos gear check or possible replacement.
- DSC reported rear brake pads require replacement. Fault code: 5DE1.
Rear brake pads replaced.
Video for fuel pressure problem with soft limp mode.
Video for acceleration before replacing the alternator speed from 100-200 in about 8.5 to 9 seconds, I think the engine is healthy despite the timing and Vanos solenoids issues. New regulator installed but that also failed after 300-400 Miles, so I installed new Valeo alternator, but not yet made a video, but the car seems to pull harder.
![947541]()
- Misfires multiple cylinders. All kind of misfires fault codes, cylinders shut off, and limp mode activation codes.
+ Compression test performed on all cylinders, all tested at the high limit with less than 10% deviation between each others.
- All spark plugs replaced.
- all injectors sent to Bosch repair center for ultrasonic cleaning, bench flow and resistance check,
- ended up with one bad coil, swapped confirmed it is bad, replacement in progress.
- Alternator over voltage, low charging and communication with DME issues. 278C, 279B, 2792, and 2AFE.
Alternator replaced with new Valeo alternator after replacing a new Valeo regulator which failed after 300-400 miles, I had communication issue with higher plus diode temperature then the whole alternator lost charging ability and shut down and stopped charging.
- Fuel pressure issues. Fault code: 27C1, 27CF, 27CE, 2788, and 27D0.
Fuel filter + Fuel pump pack replaced.
- Filling vacuum leak issue. fault codes 2737.
Fixed intake plenum rubber boot and missing clamp provided.
- Coolant thermostat. Fault code: 2B59.
Thermostat, both coolant temperature sensors replaced, and coolant flush.
- Fuel tank vent valve. Fault code: 27A6.
Both fuel tank vent valves replaced, connected sat aside fuel vent line.
- 2 Vanos solenoids failed the test. No Fault codes.
In progress for cleaning and seals replacement, and possible replacement.
- Bank 1 Vanos noise, and timing check, slight deviation between the actual and the nominal values.
In progress for complete timing check and bank 1 exhaust Vanos gear check or possible replacement.
- DSC reported rear brake pads require replacement. Fault code: 5DE1.
Rear brake pads replaced.
Video for fuel pressure problem with soft limp mode.
Video for acceleration before replacing the alternator speed from 100-200 in about 8.5 to 9 seconds, I think the engine is healthy despite the timing and Vanos solenoids issues. New regulator installed but that also failed after 300-400 Miles, so I installed new Valeo alternator, but not yet made a video, but the car seems to pull harder.
Yeah it went to the maximum, the pressure limiter is set at 108 bar, but I think I have read that the system can read up to 120 bar or could handle, not sure., but I have seen a thread here on the forum that someone posted that the pressure sensor snapped of the pump housing block, but no info on why that's happened.
The good news is that I managed to replace the alternator without removing the radiator and the cooling fan.
All you have to is
dismount the front sway bar, slide it to the right and leave it hanged,
remove the lines bracket that sits on the way (4 or 5 10mm bolts),
remove the Vanos accumulator upper bracket (another 4 or 5 10mm bolts) (that a pita, detaching the upper bracket from the lower) remove the Vanos accumulator slide it forward and let hanged to the left,
now you have more than enough space to insert your tools to remove the driving belt (14mm socket for the tensioner pulley), and to remove the alternator bolts (the best is to use 16mm deep socket and a ratchet), once the alternator is loose take it down and remove the wiring (17mm socket), I put it on a high stand jack, swap the new one and reverse the process.
All you have to is
dismount the front sway bar, slide it to the right and leave it hanged,
remove the lines bracket that sits on the way (4 or 5 10mm bolts),
remove the Vanos accumulator upper bracket (another 4 or 5 10mm bolts) (that a pita, detaching the upper bracket from the lower) remove the Vanos accumulator slide it forward and let hanged to the left,
now you have more than enough space to insert your tools to remove the driving belt (14mm socket for the tensioner pulley), and to remove the alternator bolts (the best is to use 16mm deep socket and a ratchet), once the alternator is loose take it down and remove the wiring (17mm socket), I put it on a high stand jack, swap the new one and reverse the process.
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13 Posts
How do you remove the rods if you’re trying to change the seals?
The shift rods never been removed only moved back and forth to test if the rods jammed preventing the gear shift and not causing the unable to shift condition that I was mainly having on R/1st gears shift, there is no seals to replace there, the seals are in the pistons that are installed in the lower side of the block that moves the shift rods and the solenoids on top of the shifting block that move the pistons.
Note that the pistons have special material and design seals, probably MLRengineering has them if you want to replace them beside the solenoids seals.
Feel free to request any other verifications.
Note that the pistons have special material and design seals, probably MLRengineering has them if you want to replace them beside the solenoids seals.
Feel free to request any other verifications.
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