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Discussion Starter #41
Falcoramos you mean the wiring harness that on top of the actuator block thats known for its failure ?
 

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+1 with Flaco on there being a potential harness issue specially if you heard flickering and arching during the rel-learn. A bad harness will cause all sorts of issues. Also a +1 w/Flaco on the obd cable. Not all obd programming cables are made equal, the Bimmergeeks cable is heavy duty and designed for superior stability during programming. Both the DME and TCU modules are very sensitive to voltage changes and bad cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I am heading to drop the box to do the wiring inspection and repair. May be I will pull the 1/R sensor and change the orings and if there is a way to clean it and test it. Do you know a procedure to clean and test, what voltage should I supply to it operate it. What do you think?
 

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So another question is where did all the fluid go? Usual suspect would be the clutch slave.

As for the bimmergeeks cable it's nothing special as far as hardware goes. In fact it's as common as any other cable. But they are the only known seller to use an updated firmware that fixes a data corruption bug on the original dcan cable firmware (hence why you will brick during flash). More details about this have been described by terra before.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I think the previous owner neglected the car and its maintenance schedule. How did I know? by looking at the interior and engine compartment. I classify this car as a salvage car and a donor, unfortunatly, but it is cheap and fits my experiment project. I have to fix it though because I want to drive it to know everything about its systems and what I need to pull from the car later on.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
Latest update is that the pump motor no longer works since last time when I jacked the rear and simulate driving and gear changed from 2 to 7 except R and 1st gears, the car later stumbled and went into limp mode and the moor seized, the night before I was pushing harder on the pump to engage the first gear during the transmission adaptation, so the next day it is no longer start the pump.
Tomorrow is my appointment to drop the box and bring it and the car home to investigate further.
My plan will be into two stages:
1- Remove the the actuating block and engage the gears manually to confirm no resistance holding the hydraulic pressure doing it's job and or damaged shaft or internals to rule out the transmission failure.
2- Remove the pressure and actuating solenoids and change seals, inspect the spools.
If you know a source for the spools seals would be great.
Today I got myself busy checking the wiring for the gear position from the gear position plug up to the ECU.
no finding observed. I did that by using a used actuating block was in the trunk when i bought the car with gear position all striped wiring ( the reason that block was in the trunk because the previous owner wanted to replace the position sensor and it's harness wiring in place the one installed on the block, but he never did and sold the car. When I removed the plug from the wiring of the position sensor I found that wiring repair already has been done but not sure if it has been done right because they only used electrical tape not a wiring heat shrink which could expose and short some of the wiring together at the ends ( in fact I have not notice any reason that it might be a failure as all the gears shift rods read on Ista/Inpa I have no 0 figure and gears from 2 to 7 reads perfectly, R and 1st stays where they are simply because they are not shifting positions.
That's the point I want spend more time on is why it is not shifting R and 1st, could be their solenoid
/ because other gears are engaging so their respective solenoid are working. I would disregards the pressure modulating solenoid for R, 1, 3, 5 gears because 3, and 5 are shifting, so the only left and responsible for R and 1st gear is their valve solenoid and or their respective spool, if transmission internals ruled out.
I have removed the spool block under the actuating used block I have and saw what is inside, nothing but 4 each small o'rings, the gear 4 position sensor protruding with o'rings on them.
Can you find me a source for the internal of the actuating block and the position sensor internal o'rings to eliminate the possibility of an internal leaks. I couldn't remove the solenoids by hand though, any suggestions on how to remove them.
Here a video after getting the pressure up and it shows how the gear skip 1st gear and never shift R.

 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Also I noticed the in SMG status page the Clutch current change every 1 minute to 2 minute then it goes back to standstill figure, not sure if this is normal or not and if it would indicate clutch position sensor or wiring malfunction, look in the video first list on the left side at 00:15
( sorry for the view little far ).
Another I noticed when simulated driving the car speeded up to 330 km/h on the 7th gear which means there is an engine ECU software and it is not stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I need help on how to move or engage the gears manually by hand when I drop the transmission and remove the actuating block..
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Flaco, I looked but couldn't find it, in which section exactly, would you post a link.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Thank You N_Rob for the help.
Still looking for a source for the actuating block gear shift pistons and all the actuating block internal O'rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
We have a Finding.
It is a major finding, I hope it is considered the major cause of why the transmission does not shift ro R and 1st gears.
The transmission dropped.
Before dropping the box i prepared a plan to what I am going to do next. My plan divided into 4 steps:
1- To remove the actuating block from top of the box and investigate the hydraulic mechanism.
2- Check the R and 1st gear shifting shaft manual engagement and and all gears main shaft rotation.
3- If the above looks acceptable, I would switch R-1 3-5 proportional pressure valve with 2-4 6-7 valve and switch R-1 actuating valve with 2-4 or 6-7 valve. to transfer the shifting problem from R-1 to either 2-4 or 6-7 based on which i would choose, I think I will choose 6-7 valve and try. If the problem transferred to 6-7 shifting then the problem either in the actuating valve or it's respective proportional pressure valve.
4- Test the gear shift position sensor by removing the actuating block and connected electrically and try to read the position on Ista/Inpa to check if the sensor send the correct signal to SMG computer.
The finding after dropping the box:
1- A soon as I removed the actuating block, I was looking for a mistake, from the sealant around the edge of the actuating block indicate that the transmission is not stock anymore, I looked at the piston arrangement and how they were positioned related to the shifting boat look alike mechanism, and sure enough, the piston for R and 1st gear was flipped almost 160 degree with little damage and chaffing mark visible as in the picture below, all other pistons were positioned correctly. I inspected it's shifting boat and didn't find any damage, the damage on the piston might not affect the operation because that side will be on the opposite dead side in relation to the grooved shifting boat. I don't think the piston rotates during the operation of the transmission. (That was the major finding).
2- Manual shifting of gears 2-4 3-5 6-7 was easier than R-1. R-1 required more force by hand but it does engage, so I am not sure if it is OK or not (wish if anyone confirm if it is normally harder to engage by hand than the other gears) I assume it is harder because it heavier and has two shaft somehow connected together, might be).
Now I have two options:
1- Rotate the R-1 piston to it's correct position and put everything back together and test the engagement again of R-1 and run the adaptation step that failed..
2- Rotate the R-1 piston to it's correct position and try to transfer the problem to other gear shaft for example 6-7 and test if the problem transferred as I mentioned earlier in case the R-1 piston wrong position is not the root cause.
What option should I go for.
 

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I had a hard time following some of the earlier stuff you mentioned. Base on the SMG that I have taken apart, you are correct that someone has removed the control block before. This seemed to be fairly common under warranty procedure, since none of those parts are serviceable individually, it's the whole hyrdrocontrol unit or nothing by BMW procedures. The messy sealer job and random the inside was blobs on the inside are a tell tale for me. I think the answer is put the piston back to where it should be and hope for that was your root cause.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I also have a spare piston, would i replace the damage one or not?
Could comment on: if the manual gear shifting on R-1 shaft boat force is higher than the other gear shaft?.
The master clutch cylinder shaft fall off during transportation of the box, I put it back but not sure what is the sequence to install it and if something is missing. What parts of the shaft bearing should not have grease. See pictures below.
 

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Just follow newtis (service manual) - see DIY sticky. The delrin bearing is supposed to be installed dry. I'd swap the slave studs so you can replace it from outside if needed. If want to do a thorough service then there's list of stuff to change in the DIY.

I'd rotate that piston and try again. If you don't mind dropping the trans again that is.
 

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As I understand only the splines need to be greased. This is where the clutch disk rides. As Flaco mentioned, do not grease the area where the throw out bearing rides on.

That slave cylinder should not look like that, someone took it apart. I read through some of your earlier posts again and don’t understand the non sense about 330kph or which gear positions sensor you have on the block. You can’t just swap those parts, they are calibrated to the block (and piston), it may be that you or someone else did exactly that and that’s why the car doesn’t know if it’s in 1/R.
 

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I do have a gearbox sitting on a pallet with the control unit removed so I could try playing with the rod selectors like you did. I don’t think the effort should be that different among any of them. However, you have to keep in mind that they have to have some input rotation to engage the synchros. It’s just a manual gearbox. It’s not meant to be shifted with no rotation on the input shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Flacoramos, I think that what I am going to do first. I need to clean the grease and re-do it.
Gmtegear, could you pull the slave cylinder shaft if it is possible and OK to pull and check which goes in first, disregard this idea if that will damage it though. "The non sense is about the 330kph" is during my troubleshooting I left up the rear wheels and simulate driving to check if the gears will shift, the car shifted gears from 2-7 ,I accelerated all the way to 7th gear there where the speedo showed 330kph on the 7th gear, which indicate that the engine ECU is not stock and I have to look into that because if it is not done right and programmed the SMG ECU with the engine ECU the SMG ECU need to know the changes in torque to calculate the power of the engine, this a windows to research if didn't go well.
You can try my method of shifting gears it will shift without rotation of the piston, I verified that when I shifted into R, the output shaft went into opposite direction, also other than, shifting into gears will lock the output shaft from rotation when you move the input shaft, which mean the gear is engaged. I think they design it this way, no need to rotate to engage gear from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd,etc, I think it is only longitudinal movement, either forward or backward. When I removed the lower piston block i didn't find any provision to rotate the pistons inside the block.
I just want to confirm if the force required to push or pull on R-1 gear shift rod is higher than the rest gears rods.
As I understand only the splines need to be greased. This is where the clutch disk rides. As Flaco mentioned, do not grease the area where the throw out bearing rides on.

That slave cylinder should not look like that, someone took it apart. I read through some of your earlier posts again and don’t understand the non sense about 330kph or which gear positions sensor you have on the block. You can’t just swap those parts, they are calibrated to the block (and piston), it may be that you or someone else did exactly that and that’s why the car doesn’t know if it’s in 1/R.
I still didn't didn't replace or exchange any of the actuating block component, because i already read that it is not recommended and initialy I don't want to. I have a spare block was laying in the trunk of the car when I bought it, That was the original idea of solving the issue by replacing the gear position sensor and it's harness, even though they repaired the wires. I will also remove that electrical tape and re-do it with heat shrink whenI confirm the sensor is working. That's what I am going to do next holding the block under the car and hook the connector to the car wiring loom and move the pistons by hand and check on ISTA the reading. In INPA it will tell you what is the current value and what is the expected value when the gear shift, and I already have a pictures of the previous test numbers.
 
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