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Don't try an loosen the bleed screw in the block under pressure, just at the start. If the pump builds pressure just move on to the clutch bleed with the software. Make sure you have plenty of power.
Good call on having proper charger or 12V supply hooked up. These cars draw A LOT of power (20-30A easy) with ignition on.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Don't try an loosen the bleed screw in the block under pressure, just at the start. If the pump builds pressure just move on to the clutch bleed with the software. Make sure you have plenty of power.
I already have adequate pressure, i am in the bleeding process. The clutch bleeding pass but the actuator block failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Good call on having proper charger or 12V supply hooked up. These cars draw A LOT of power (20-30A easy) with ignition on.
I do have a stabilizer with 120 A but i noticed that the battery still drain charge after i stopped the procedures earlier. Which means the stabilizer didn't charge the battery, may be it is not suppose to, I have no idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I also think that there is something doesnt sleep when i lock the car over night, something is draining the battery, i will investigate that later. I do have other things to check in the list but after this major issue
 

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I already have adequate pressure, i am in the bleeding process. The clutch bleeding pass but the actuator block failed.
So you did the clutch bleed with no problems, then you ran the actuator test and it failed. Have you tried running adaptations? What kind of pressure do you have? Set on S4 you should see cycle pressures of 50-70bar.
 

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I do have a stabilizer with 120 A but i noticed that the battery still drain charge after i stopped the procedures earlier. Which means the stabilizer didn't charge the battery, may be it is not suppose to, I have no idea.
What is the voltage the stabilizer is set at? Since yours seems to be able to put out 120A (that’s massive, you don’t need one that powerful). I’m assuming the output voltage can be set. It has to be higher than 12v, otherwise you will never get your battery fully charged. Best if you have a separate multimeter to read the actual voltage output.

also parasitic drain on E60s is common. One think keeping the car awake may be if you leave the key near or on the car. It won’t go to sleep if it’s like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I tried to bleed the actuator block and clutch slave 3,4,5,6,7,8,9,etc. still the block didn't bleed, i get the error in the picture attached. I did bleed the slave cylinder and the clutch valve value over written and stored in the SMG ECU.
I am aiming to use DIS V57 to trigger the actuator block bleeding and repeat the whole adaptation process with it.
I am still convinced it is software manipulation and voltage.
So you did the clutch bleed with no problems, then you ran the actuator test and it failed. Have you tried running adaptations? What kind of pressure do you have? Set on S4 you should see cycle pressures of 50-70bar.
yes the clutch cylinder bled with no problem when i filled up the nearly empty tank with Pentosin 11S and the pump started to have real good pressure 108 bar then 89 bar within this range.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Gemtegear, 120A is the capacity of the machine. I am putting 12.55V and the amp modulate from 1-35.
I am going to raise voltage to 13.8V during the DISv57 component triggering, bleeding and adaptation, as you know the
block bleeding is 15 minute set time and that may require strong voltage and current for the pump motor and other components to keep operating during the bleeding process. I never did this kind of complexity diagnosis before with ISTA+, INPA, never used DIS before, but my head is telling me DIS may do something difference as it was the main diagnosis system when the car released.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Might want to check the wiring insulation on the gear shift fork position sensor array.
I would do that for sure only if i had to drop the box, I dont really want to get to that stage because i have no interest in the SMG for my project when I finish preparing for the E30 M3 S85 transplant. I am a manual transmission guy, so i dont want to spend on this box. But have to get the car running until the day comes at least to know and learn more about the system, engine to help preparation for my project.
 

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Gemtegear, 120A is the capacity of the machine. I am putting 12.55V and the amp modulate from 1-35.
I am going to raise voltage to 13.8V during the DISv57 component triggering, bleeding and adaptation, as you know the
block bleeding is 15 minute set time and that may require strong voltage and current for the pump motor and other components to keep operating during the bleeding process. I never did this kind of complexity diagnosis before with ISTA+, INPA, never used DIS before, but my head is telling me DIS may do something difference as it was the main diagnosis system when the car released.
What is the model and mfg of the machine? Also are you running an AGM or standard lead acid battery. The reason for me mentioning the multimeter is that you have to look at the voltage AT the end of the cables. If the machine is set at 12.55 you may be getting quite at less at the clamps. It all depends on the size and quality of the cables that can vary quite a bit. Since your thing can output 120A I’m assuming you have very thick cables and the clamps are also high quality. If you have a dealership grade machine I don’t think you’d ever run in to issues. Sounds like you can vary the current profile so it seems to be a quality machine, the voltage may even be compensated for the cables.

The max battery voltage is like 12.6 so any power supply LESS than that at the terminals will not change to battery fully, it’s electrically/chemically impossible. I believe that the minimum voltage for the electrical chemical reaction to occur is around 13v. If you have a decent quality machine and trust the voltage regulation function, it’s safe to leave it at 13.5v. That will fully charge the battery and there will be no ill effects. If you can program it, you can do 14.4v and then let it decline and float at 13.5v.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
The machine is Chinese crap , it does drop 0.5V at the clamp, i'm getting 13.40V, it is MST-90+.
Ok I managed to bleed the actuator with DIS v57, I am gonna bleed it 2 more times as Falcoramos suggested and see if it shifts to 1st and reverse R, it didn't shift when i bled it the first time and still failing the complete transmission teach-in step because the engagement problem. I did also noticeed when raised voltage some flickring and arching noises during 1st and R gear selection during complete transmission teach-in or adaptation when the SMG ECU tried to adjust the mid-position of shift range for those specific gears, it timed out and failed on 1st gear and R gear. I think the signal is not going to the 1/R shifter valve due to wiring frayed as almost evryone know about this design issue, otherwise the box is toasted internally and the pressure is not able to pull the shift shaft for 1st or R gears.
 

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Well those machine are cheap but as long as the voltage is sufficient, stable and clean, it doesn’t really matter, the battery has no way of knowing if it’s from the alternator or your machine. There was nothing wrong with it, you just had it set too low for it to charge, in fact if you have it too low, the battery will flow current to the power supply.

With regards to changing, the current will be higher if you charge the battery at a higher voltage like 14.5v but don’t leave it on there (to keep it topped off) You know the voltage drop at the clamps so can adjust accordingly. With 0.5v drop at the clamps you need to have it set above 13.5v. This is incidentally why some ppl end up bricking their cars when re-programming, they are not factoring in voltage drop of their cables as well as the drop in the car, so actual voltage at the modules can dip well below 12v.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Right. I am putting that into consideration. I never programmed an ECU, but this i think i am gonna do it for this car if everything failed before dropping the transmission. Not sure what version should I program the SMG ECU.
 

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I never used DIS. Other folks here can advise more on reprogramming the SMG ECU but not sure that fixes any of the problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
DIS will not program only diagnostic, progman will do the programming or other platform like NCS and Winkfp.
 

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Yes WinKFP. Maybe you mentioned it earlier and missed it, but what do you think reprogramming the SMG controller will solve. When you do this the adaptations will be erased and it may cause you even more issues in terms of starting and drivability until you do the adaptations. There are others here that have messed around with this more, but just putting it out there.
 

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Flashing does not erase adaptations. Not smg nor dme at least.

I'd be careful of what cable you're using. Anything but a bimmergeeks pro cable will brick the smg. Or an icom.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I have a cable from Cable shack UK and confirmed with them the quality of it for programming. Well this is just an option not sure about and I never done such a thing, before dropping the box. The thing that pushing me to update the software is the SB released on the same issue I am having right now and the same error faults which is the blocking of 1 and R gear or it could be any other shaft combination of the 4 shaft inside the box, providing the ISTA+ was able to center the rods which could mean they are not damaged, still could be something else internally damaged if all external repairs failed to fix the issue.
Today i jacked up the rear wheels and simulated a test run and yeah it drive on 2nd to 7th and back to 2nd, 1st and reverse not in the picture it prefer to go to N when i commanded the shifter to R and stay at 2nd if I commanded 1st gear.
I was watching the actual data on ISTA for gear change and clutch flow. I noticed when the i put the 7th gear something change in the gear actual status reading and changed to R instead of following the command from 7th to 6th gear, it is a mess, this could be a the wiring on the block have shorted together may be.
 

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Let me reiterate to not do any flashing with anything but a bimmergeeks pro cable. With that said... if you decide to go forward and brick the smg ecu it can be recovered (reflashed) once you get the right cable. I highly doubt the flash to be your issue but I'd give it a try - it's free and takes 5 minutes to flash. I suspect you have gear position wiring issues.
 
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