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2007 E60 M5 Diagnostic help

24K views 124 replies 11 participants last post by  platii 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi,
I just purchased a donor EURO M5 for my E30 M3 S85 project with starting inhibited, it has SMG malfunction red COG sign.
The engine will start in a limp mode with one of the SMG ECU connector disconnected.
the transmission stick moves but always at N and doesn't change to 1st to drive or any other
position. No one knows what the previous owner did to the car before selling it to the guy I purchased the car from.
I scanned her with ISTA+ with everything connected and showed those errors attached.
My Main Concern is these Errors:
9501 : SZL: Steering-angle sensor not adjusted.
94C1 : SZL: Coding-data error.
4F66 : SMG: Learning not run (Gearbox, longitudinal accelerator sensor).
4F67 : SMG: Learning not run (Clutch valve values, Clutch slipping point).
5007 : SMG: Rocker switch, Negative.
5E43 : DSC: Steering angle sensor: Adjustment.
when I scanned the car with SMG connector disconnected and engine started i get 7 error more related to SMG ECU and only one error related to engine which is
2713 : Air-mass flow sensor, Bank 2.
I will get the car by Tuesday, so i want you guys to set a plan for a diagnose.
When I put all the errors together i feel it is a coding/programming issue
more than a hardware failure. The car was sitting long time and possible battery weakness.
 

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#3 ·
Did all these codes throw all at one time?

if you are getting ALOT of strange codes... it is either a bad battery, bad alternator, or bad alternator voltage regulator.

it is not a good idea to drive around with a bad alternator/voltage regulator due to Risks of overvoltage which can ruin your car battery and possibly electronics.

i had a crap ton of codes For a few weeks and they all went Away after alternator replacement.

Secret: Amazon sells a brand new Valeo alternator for like around $100 — they are located in the “used” section of the listing (they are new, but returned by customers).
 
#4 ·
The car is not driveable, the engine will not crank.
I found these errors when I first meet the car and the guy who wants to sell it.
The car will arrive soon.
now all my thinking is the SMG package would stop it from running.
i dont see any hard fault in the SMG, and not sure if learning process would stop
the engine from cranking!!.
 
#8 ·
Triggered the SMG HYD pump with ISTA+ and it shows 3.5 bar. when stopped the reading is 1 bar.
the lever is locked by the system and the light is off on the shifter.
the cluster display N position.
i tried to engage gears with ISTA+ but it says gear is engaged for each selection i choose.
I will continue and report back with pictures.
 
#10 ·
yes 3.5 bar. Confirmed motor runs pump run but low pressure. Based on the extensive reading in this forum
the best choice is to replace the motor and may be the pump internal seal.
Does the MLReng kit has the O-rings for the SMG directional control valve PN/ 23017845630, does tis valve control hyd press. in somehow.
My plan now is to inspect and evaluate the conditions:
1- check the SMG pump oil tank and quantity ( i hope it is not empty or the pump is gone).
2- remove the motor and disassemble and check the integrity of the brush ( is it possible to test the motor output)
Then I will give it another test and see what is the outcome before ordering the motor.
in fact the sound of the hyd pump is really smooth but you can notice the struggling to build the required pressure as it runs 15 second four times before giving up.
 
#11 ·
If the motor runs I'd suspect low oil before anything else. A completely blown seal (which would cause loss of pressure) is unheard of.

A motor either runs or it doesn't (there's the intermittent running when hot brush issue but again it either runs or not). You say the pump motor runs. A new motor won't run any different than the existing one.

This is how an average motor is supposed to sound.

Post a clip of yours.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Flacoramos, thats what I think too,and it sounds just like in the video, the only difference is that gradual low pitch when the the pressure reach the set value.
I jacked up the car and will check and fill if required, then will run the pump again
and check if pressure improved.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I managed to start the car with SMG ECU fully connected.
Shifter unlocked and N illuminated.
I found the SMG pump tank almost empty, I poured maybe about 800 ml of oil, now i have full pressure 108-89 bar.
accumulator is good holding the pressure of 58 when i test it bleed to the specified 44 bar.
so confirmed i have good motor good accumulator and good pump.
I am half way solving this problem.
1- Complete transmission teach-in failed( gear 1 and R not engaging).
2- Actuator block ventilation failed.
Tests that I manged to complete:
1- Clutch slave cylinder ventilation.
2- Clutch Valve characteristic value. (fault 4F67 eliminated).
3- Clutch slipping point teach-in. (fault 4F67 eliminated).
4- longitudinal acceleration sensor teach-in. (fault 4F67 partially eliminated,I think the transmission teach-in has to be completed to fully eliminate this fault).
Note: These test passed when I chose transmission control sub menue but earlier failed under other sub menu, for example, clutch replacing sub menu.
5- Position gearshift rods in center position. (This one give me a feeling that the transmission is not internally damaged when 1 gear and R gear didn't engage, so i think the problem is in the control which is the shift valve on the top of the transmission).
Summary:
1- Actuator block ventilation fail.
2- 1 gear and R gear not engaging.
3- 4F80: Gearbox fault showed at the last error reading.
4- 4F82: SMG: Engage 1/R gear not possible fault showed at the last error reading.

The good thing is based on the sevice buletin SI B23 03 08 revision http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/at...al-docs-thread-one-stop-shop-si-b23-03-08.pdf
which state that blocked gear (4F82- Gearbox blocked I/R in my case) related to software problem only if the integration is E060-08-09-510 or lower, and not sure if my beast fall within this range.
I really dont want to miss with programming the whole car as the recall solution, but I think it worth a try.
what do you guys think, or just reflash the SMG ECU alone .
940920
940921
 
#30 ·
I would do that for sure only if i had to drop the box, I dont really want to get to that stage because i have no interest in the SMG for my project when I finish preparing for the E30 M3 S85 transplant. I am a manual transmission guy, so i dont want to spend on this box. But have to get the car running until the day comes at least to know and learn more about the system, engine to help preparation for my project.
 
#29 ·
Gemtegear, 120A is the capacity of the machine. I am putting 12.55V and the amp modulate from 1-35.
I am going to raise voltage to 13.8V during the DISv57 component triggering, bleeding and adaptation, as you know the
block bleeding is 15 minute set time and that may require strong voltage and current for the pump motor and other components to keep operating during the bleeding process. I never did this kind of complexity diagnosis before with ISTA+, INPA, never used DIS before, but my head is telling me DIS may do something difference as it was the main diagnosis system when the car released.
 
#31 · (Edited)
What is the model and mfg of the machine? Also are you running an AGM or standard lead acid battery. The reason for me mentioning the multimeter is that you have to look at the voltage AT the end of the cables. If the machine is set at 12.55 you may be getting quite at less at the clamps. It all depends on the size and quality of the cables that can vary quite a bit. Since your thing can output 120A I’m assuming you have very thick cables and the clamps are also high quality. If you have a dealership grade machine I don’t think you’d ever run in to issues. Sounds like you can vary the current profile so it seems to be a quality machine, the voltage may even be compensated for the cables.

The max battery voltage is like 12.6 so any power supply LESS than that at the terminals will not change to battery fully, it’s electrically/chemically impossible. I believe that the minimum voltage for the electrical chemical reaction to occur is around 13v. If you have a decent quality machine and trust the voltage regulation function, it’s safe to leave it at 13.5v. That will fully charge the battery and there will be no ill effects. If you can program it, you can do 14.4v and then let it decline and float at 13.5v.
 
#32 ·
The machine is Chinese crap , it does drop 0.5V at the clamp, i'm getting 13.40V, it is MST-90+.
Ok I managed to bleed the actuator with DIS v57, I am gonna bleed it 2 more times as Falcoramos suggested and see if it shifts to 1st and reverse R, it didn't shift when i bled it the first time and still failing the complete transmission teach-in step because the engagement problem. I did also noticeed when raised voltage some flickring and arching noises during 1st and R gear selection during complete transmission teach-in or adaptation when the SMG ECU tried to adjust the mid-position of shift range for those specific gears, it timed out and failed on 1st gear and R gear. I think the signal is not going to the 1/R shifter valve due to wiring frayed as almost evryone know about this design issue, otherwise the box is toasted internally and the pressure is not able to pull the shift shaft for 1st or R gears.
 
#33 ·
Well those machine are cheap but as long as the voltage is sufficient, stable and clean, it doesn’t really matter, the battery has no way of knowing if it’s from the alternator or your machine. There was nothing wrong with it, you just had it set too low for it to charge, in fact if you have it too low, the battery will flow current to the power supply.

With regards to changing, the current will be higher if you charge the battery at a higher voltage like 14.5v but don’t leave it on there (to keep it topped off) You know the voltage drop at the clamps so can adjust accordingly. With 0.5v drop at the clamps you need to have it set above 13.5v. This is incidentally why some ppl end up bricking their cars when re-programming, they are not factoring in voltage drop of their cables as well as the drop in the car, so actual voltage at the modules can dip well below 12v.
 
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