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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2006 BMW M5 a couple months ago for $12,000. Before I made my first payment, the transmission got stuck in 1st gear and basically locked up. The car would not start. So I had it towed to the local BMW Dealership and they diagnosed it with a number of things. The bill was $9,300. Ended up fixing 2 of the 6 items they diagnosed.

R&R Clutch Sensor
R&R Transmission Pressure Accumulator

Came out of the shop with a bill of just under $3,000 and a 2 year warranty on the parts they fixed.

About 2 weeks later, the message board said transmission malfunction and would go into N. This time I did not turn it off. I revved the engine a few times and the transmission kicked into gear again. This happened a few more times and was able to get it back into gear by revving the engine. My plan was to take it in and get it looked at in a few days. Before I could take it in, I drove home from work and as I pulled into the driveway, the car shut off. Tried to start it, it did not start. Went out the next morning, the car started like nothing happened. Finally, as I was driving home again, it did the same thing, stalled out. Left it over night, but this time it did not start. Tried it a day later and still would not start. Seemed to be the same issue, gear shifter locked up. Anyway, took it back to the same shop thinking it would be the same issue, same part that was under warranty, but this time they diagnosed it with R & R SMG Hydraulic Unit. Just over $12,000 for parts and labor.

Has anyone had this issue. Any advice would be welcomed. Thanks.

RB
 

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You need to invest in some diagnostic software which is mandatory for owning a beast.
Forum members are always willing to help but they/we need more info to go on.
Search the forum... many diag software options.
Carly may be the simplest route, can be used with an IOS or Android device, though not as robust as some.
Good luck... and find an Indy. Don't go to the stealership!
If you don't know of a reputable M5 Indy, ask your fellow board members for a recommendation in your area.
 

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First thing is to read the fault codes then post what you find here on the forum. There are many members here that are extremely knowledgeable and have a wealth of experience with all things E60 M5. Without codes you're just throwing parts at it, which will get expensive real fast, as you are finding out now. Research and buy a good BMW diagnostic software and go from there. I know this isn't immediate help but if you follow the process you'll get to the bottom of your issues and fixed correctly. Plus you'll learn so much.
 

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2006 M5
Joined
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35 Posts
You need to invest in some diagnostic software which is mandatory for owning a beast.
Forum members are always willing to help but they/we need more info to go on.
Search the forum... many diag software options.
Carly may be the simplest route, can be used with an IOS or Android device, though not as robust as some.
Good luck... and find an Indy. Don't go to the stealership!
If you don't know of a reputable M5 Indy, ask your fellow board members for a recommendation in your area.
Beat me to it! Lol
 

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Almost $3000? I have been underneath the car few times. I have seen where the accumulator and clutch sensor are. There is no way I would pay almost $3,000 just for replacing these parts. These parts are quite accessible underneath the car. All you have to do is lower the back of the transmission then drain fluid out of the system, then remove resorivor and the clutch position sensor is right there, just two bolts to remove it. for the accumulator, you doesn't have to lower the transmission but remove the engine shield then use 17 socket to remove the accumulator or you could use a wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Almost $3000? I have been underneath the car few times. I have seen where the accumulator and clutch sensor are. There is no way I would pay almost $3,000 just for replacing these parts. These parts are quite accessible underneath the car. All you have to do is lower the back of the transmission then drain fluid out of the system, then remove resorivor and the clutch position sensor is right there, just two bolts to remove it. for the accumulator, you doesn't have to lower the transmission but remove the engine shield then use 17 socket to remove the accumulator or you could use a wrench.
Too late, I already had the work done. The only reason I took it back to the dealership was the warranty. Of course now they are saying it is something else. I will be contacting a couple different garages to see what they say. Thanks.

RB
 

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+1 on getting diagnostic software...there is Carly, Bimmergeeks Protool or Bimmertool, you’ll need bluetooth dongle to use these apps with iphone or android. Knowing the codes is instrumental for providing a good starting point.

What happened is the shop did not replace the problematic part or parts. Bad accumulators will not throw codes or put the car on limp mode. A bad sensor code can be caused by a bad sensor OR bad smg pump, bad slave cylinder or some other issue in the hydraulic unit.


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Discussion Starter #11
Hey Redd Barron, Im in Round Rock and have ISTA on a laptop if you need/want a quick diagnostic. Pretty easy to pull the codes, then you have a lot more information to go on. Also, recommend Lindsey Bimmer Service in Cedar park as a solid Indy.
I appreciate it. I'm actually about 30 or 40 minutes north of Round Rock, in Salado. I think I have a shop right up the road that some friends recommended. If that doesn't work, I might try Cedar Park. Thanks for the help.

RB
 
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