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I don't even have a code reader or any software for the car.
you really need ISTA, not merely a code reader.
The car won’t start unless it is in Neutral. That seems to be the easy answer based on what I see so far. ISTA will let you command and test the gears along with reading and resetting codes. Then there are adaptations that need to be made. I’m surprised you even started to under take this project without ISTA.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
GMTEGear,

Thank you for the reply.

The dash says the car is in automatic 1st gear ('D1' or '1D). The shifter says the car is in manual neutral ('N'). Which one is correct? I know I can turn the rear wheels by hand with modest effort without the engine turning. No response needed. I ask this question in jest. There is no telling what the computers are thinking. But if the dash thinks it is in gear, it is not going to activate the starter. I get that.

I agree with you that I will need the ISTA software and a cable to connect with my laptop.

Man these cars got way more complicated in a very short time. My last car project was lass than 10 years ago. I bought a 1997 BMW E38 M60/M62 with a blown engine. That engine swap project was four times easier than this one. And no computers, software, and cables involved. I guess it can be attributed to the 10 year span and the jump from a 7 Series to an M5.

I found a youtube video regarding the software and cable.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRam10oezCw
But the guy in the video has a European accent of sorts. British I think. Do you think the software and cable in the video are the ones I should order for my project? Or do you think there is another version I should order specific to US cars. I do not want to order the stuff shown in the video only to learn they are specific Euro BMWs and be no further along in my project than I am today.

I did an advanced search on the M5Board on keyword 'ISTA'. But I did not find much there. I am trying to make sure I am ordering the right stuff.

Henry
 

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easiest and most reliable method is to go to bimmergeeks.com. Buy their cable and check out the download links😁. Best to download the stuff while you wait for the able to show up. I think any of us would’ve advised you of that 6 months ago but we didn’t know

This is what 95% of the ppl here use. I use a different set up using different hardware but no need to get in to all of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
GMTEGear,

Thanks for the tip. I ordered my cable. I downloaded BimmerGeeks 'Standard Tools' software and installed it on my computer.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #85
I am coming down the home stretch towards having this car put back together. But there are two items I do not know where to plug in. They are both adjacent to the engine on the left/driver side in the area of the coolant tank and the air intake filter.

1) looks like some sort of sensor. It looks to be broken. It was not plugged into anything when I removed the blown engine. It was just dangling there under the coolant tank. The wire for the sensor is coming out of the wiring from the body of the car left of the engine in engine bay. I thought it might be a coolant level or temperature sensor at first. But no place to plug into tank. It actually looks more like a MAF type sensor to me. But no place on the air intakes to plug it in either. The sensor has the #'s 53493 on it. But of course that is not a valid BMW 7-digit or 11-digit part # I can look up. See attached pictures IMG_1366, IMG_3367, IMG_1368, IMG_1369.

2) Looks like a vacuum/emissions hose. I thought it would plug into the air intake filter box or even the coolant enclosure because that is the area it stretches to. The other end wraps around the back of the engine. But I can not find a home for it. See attached picture IMG_1370.

Any ideas. Thanks in advance.

Henry
 

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Number 1 is the coolant level sensor. I would check the coolant expansion tank again. The sensor fits into the bottom. Pretty sure Number 2 is one of the crankcase vent hoses, Possibly the one that connects to the underside of the front of the plenum?
 

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Indeed there is a built in (but removable level sensor for the coolant tank, it appears that this one you have was removed and may be damaged.

For #2, there is not a 5th photo.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Thanks for the replies guys.

1) It was kind of dark in the garage last night and I could not see the 'port' in the coolant resevoir for the coolant level sensor/switch. After getting home from work I inspected more closely. And sure enough there it is.

2) I attached the picture of the hose I am looking for a home for. It seems to have some rubber pads wrapped around it, probably to prevent it from damaging the cover it sits on. Sorry I have not had time to sift through diagrams on www.realoem.com to figure it out on my own. If no one can tell me off the top of there head I will do that.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I cannot find the hose in question by looking on www.realoem.com.

So I traced it out on the old/blown engine still sitting in my garage. It splits into two pipes at the top back of the engine. Those two pipes go through two units just in front of the starter in the 'valley pan'. Then there feed into two other units positioned on the inside side walls of the 'valley pan'.

Still sifting through www.realoem.com.

Henry
 

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I think i found it. There is a connection just behind the coolant tank and beneath the strut brace. It may also be the hose in your 5th picture, at the center top, pointing away. Hopefully the attached picture also gets you there.
940907
 

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Discussion Starter #93
That did it. Thank you for the picture.

I had to disconnect the fuel line and reroute the hose. But in place now right down to the little connectors that fit onto the tabs on the fuel rail.

For a 'smart guy' I sure do lack some common sense. LMAO.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #94
2020-07-20 Update:

I received my Pro K+DCAN Cable from BimmerGeeks. I first downloaded BimmerGeeks 'Standard Tools' software and installed it on my computer. It works good. But it seems to jump back and forth between English and German when I run INPA. I can not get the ISTA software to connect to my car nor read out the vehicle data. I installed the software 3 times. After that did not work for me I tried a different ISTA download I found on Bimmerfest.com:
www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1023698
But same result. Still cannot get the ISTA software to connect to my car nor read out the vehicle data.

I am running Windows 10 Home Edition. I have read that I may need to upgrade my Windows to 10 Pro in order to get ISTA to work on my computer. Has anyone been able to get it to work on Windows 10 Home Edition? Is thee anyone who had the same problem as me and then resolved it by upgrading to Windows 10 Pro?

I still have Engine Malfunction and Transmission Malfunction messages on the console. The car will not turn over until after I run the 'Adaption' in INPA software. At least that is what I think it is since that particular screen is displaying in German. The button is labeled, 'Adaptionen'.

I bled the coolant. I was able to clear the engine codes. I then started the engine and stopped it. Still not engine codes. So that is the good news.

But I have not been able to do the same with the transmission. The three codes come back immediately after I attempt to clear them:
5104
5105
4F66
I think that if I could run ISTA I could possibly get these cleared. Also I cannot move the gear shifter. It seems to be frozen in place.

Lastly, the float seems to have gone missing in my coolant overflow tank. See attached picture IMG_1445.jpg. I am not sure whether the float broke off or whether it somehow flipped upside down. Has anyone seen this before?

Henry
 

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I think win10 pro is required since it can run programs in full win7 mode.
ISTA can be tricky to install correctly regardless. I have a separate laptop for all my diagnostics stuff only since that always stays with the car.

It may be some simple configuration settings since INPA runs for you which indicates that the EDIABAS service is working. It may be that you just need ISTA to be configured properly. There is a lot more knowledgeable people and threads on Bimmerfest that can help on that.
 

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Go into the vehicle interface settings in ISTA and make sure the interface type is set to ediabas default settings. May not be your problem but worth a shot
 

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You have to configure ISTA to use the obd/usb cable.
open ISTA then double click on the top of interface window to enlarge, then on the top right side you find a tab with wrench icon hit it, it will open the configureation window, make sure the first choice is circled " Ediabas default sitting (ediabas.ini)".
Another thing to check is the ediabas.ini , open the file "obd" and make sure you assigned the right port for the cable to use, if you ran INPA already you don't need to do it as it is already assigned the correct port number.
 

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Discussion Starter #99
The post that inserts into the float in the coolant reservoir came loose. So I drained enough coolant to empty the coolant reservoir. I retrieved the post and inserted it back into the float and filled the coolant again. But it just came loose again. So I had to drain the coolant a second time to retrieve it. Realizing it is just a visual indicator, I threw it in the trash and filled the coolant again. Bled the coolant. The replacement engine with 52K miles sounds great.

I was able to get ISTA software to run. In my case it was the interface setting that needed to be changed to 'Ediabas default sitting (ediabas.ini)'. Thank you.

Now on to the more pressing issue of adapting the SMG transmission so I can drive this beast. I have been reading through the posts on the topic in an attempt to come up to speed so to speak.. It is evident to me that I have committed some cardinal sins, bleeding and reducing pressure before attempting the adaption in INPA. It is excusable when you consider the last BMW engine swap I did was about 8 years ago on a 1997 BMW E38 M62. All I had to do was swap in the new engine and perform a few simple reset procedures involving shorting pins on the engine wire harness connector, and involving pressing the accelerator pedal in certain ignition key positions, and off I went.

My car is a 2006 BMW E60 M5 S85 with SMG. Production date of 02/06. I bought it with a blow engine.
I purchased a salvage engine and transmission with 52K miles from a 2010 BMW E60 M5 S85 with SMG. Production date of 07/09.
I swapped the salvage engine and transmission into my car. I am using the 2006 engine ECU and transmission ECU. The reason being that they are 'paired' to the car ignition system already. I am using the 2006 engine wire harness. The reason being that it will plug into the car with no extra or missing wiring connections. I am using the 2010 transmission wire harness but only because one of the connectors on the 2006 transmission wire harness was badly damaged. It is my belief that there are no differences in the transmission and the transmission wire harnesses from the 2006 and 2010 cars.

I have a few concerns:

1) the little black plastic transmission wire harness connector holder that fastens to the underbelly of the car on the right side aside the transmission was badly damaged to the point it would not hold the connectors. But I did not want my connectors resting on the transmission and overheating/melting. So I zip tied my connectors to the plate in advance of raising the engine and transmission into place. The plan was to fasten the plate to the two posts on the underbelly of the car with the two plastic nuts once the engine and transmission were in place. But the plate caught on an edge in the process of raising the engine and transmission into place with enough force to pull the connectors out of the zip ties. So there was a good amount of force on the wires. I hope I did not damage any of the wire connections into the SMG transmission. After that is when I noticed the damage to one of the 2006 engine wire harness connectors that plugs into the transmission and swapped it out with the 2010 transmission wire harness. Had to replace one plug that was different. It was stupid but understandable considering the car is backed into my garage with right side car very close to the wall and I did not have a good view of that under the car on jack stands. If worse comes to worse I will have to swap the 2006 transmission (with 132K miles) back in. But I hope it does not come to that.

2) car is still up on jack stands. Front end slightly lower than back. I do not know if car being in the air can somehow prevent the SMG adaption from completing. Would it help to raise the front end slightly before attempting the adaption again?

3) I do not know if running the 2010 transmission with the 2006 transmission ECU can cause some 'miscommunication'. I do not know whether there are any 'smarts' in the transmission aside from the various sensors, actuators, and motors or whether ALL the 'smarts' are in the transmission ECU. But I did lookup the transmission part # in RealOEM.com for both cars and they are the same. So even if there are 'smarts' in the transmission I should be covered as far as the newer transmission with the older transmission ECU is concerned.

4) Not sure if I need to some how register the VIN # of 2010 transmission into the engine ECU, transmission ECU and/or car cluster.

I removed the battery, closed the hood, doors, and trunk. The battery is on a charger overnight. I have read the posts and learned how to perform the SMG adaption procedure correctly in ISTA.

Right now INPA SMG adaption stops on the longitudinal acceleration sensor adaption each time. If I do not have better luck tomorrow I will upload the SMG_60.tmp file as SMG_60.txt. Just for grins I uploaded it from the last attempt early this morning. I also also uploaded the SMG error file, na_fs.tmp and na_fs.txt.

This engine swap is many more times more difficult than the the last on I did. Fingers crossed.

Henry
 

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Try running the adaptations individually with inpa, they're in the m menu. Do not run the longitudinal script until the car is on flat ground. Everything else sounds good.
 
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