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Discussion Starter #61
There is a cable from the starter to the junction at the front of the engine wire harness. There is a second cable from the junction on the front of the engine wire harness to the junction by the front left/driver strut tower. There is a third cable from the junction by the front left/driver strut tower that goes the length of the body to the battery in the trunk.

The cable in question terminates on a junction on the rear of the engine wire harness plastic enclosure (near windshield and firewall). I have to think this has to go to the alternator. There is a cable that goes from the alternator along the front of the engine and terminates on the front of the engine wire harness. I am assuming the cable at the back of the engine wire harness has to go back to the alternator to complete a recharge circuit to keep the battery charged when car is running.

I am just double checking as I am a hobbbyist / weekend warrior. Last thing I want to do after all of this work is to plug in the battery and fry something.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Flacoramos,

I have to tell you it is a weird thing how I can not comprehend wiring diagrams. I have an engineering degree. I have worked in technical jobs my whole life. But when it comes to wiring diagrams, I am lost. I can't explain it. While that diagram would help nearly everyone else, it just leaves me scratching my head.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Flacoramos,

Hold on. I did not know you could click on the points and get a diagram of where they are in the car. Let me look at this for a while and see if I can figure it out.

Henry
 

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The alternator wiring harness is part of a separate branch of wiring that also contains the wiring for the oil level sensor,oil sumps, vanos accumulator, and driver side vanos actuators. There are only 2 branch offs to the alternator, one is the plug for the voltage regulator and the other is the 12+ power output. This whole harness is garbage the insulation degrades, I spoke about this before and I reinsulated the whole thing this past winter on one of my cars. It’s an unacceptable fire hazard.
Regardless the heavy gauge cable there goes from the alternator to the FRONT junction point on the brigde(not the rear) which then has a connection to the jump start terminal and main battery feed.

These 12+ hot wires are all hot so you could apply the same reasoning of “ground is ground”. Everything might function fine despite it being wired incorrectly.

It happens to pertain to the other connectors you asked about but there is a reason why BMW even ran separate ground wires back to the box. I won’t go into detail about why that’s an oversimplification since a chassis ground is NOT the same as a signal ground, but it does matter. Those two mating plugs likely share the same signal ground potential, but it’s best to just put everything where it should be so you don’t spend time later scratching your head. It’s quite abit of additional cost, weight, and engineering if the could have just grounded it anywhere.

also I only have post LCI cars so it’s possible on pre LCI that things were done differently. In the case of what we’re talking about I highly doubt it. I think you mis-wired the alternator cable and starter cable, but I can only go off the limited info you provided.
 

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Discussion Starter #66
GTMEGear,

You lost me in your description. Also you lost me with LCI. I hate acronyms/abbreviations.

I am combing through the newtis.info web site now to check all the termination points.

I only have one cable at the back of the engine wire harness that I do not know how to connect. I was hoping someone would be able to give my a 'Seasame Street' description/account of how to connect it based on how it is connected on their car (from the factory) of the same model and vintage. Like I said the car I have was not fully connected when I bought it.
But no such luck. I protected all the wires on my car engine wire harness except the ones you are referring to which start at the alternator and wrap around the front of the engine. Makes me want to stop and take care of it now. It looks to me like they are fairly difficult to access through.

Anyway, I will update with you with my findings once I finish combing through Newtis.

Henry
 

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Take a look at post #16. I included a pic of the starter AND the cable with the plastic insulated nut. Note the length. The other pic is the front part of the wiring harness that goes to the alternator. The black plastic convolute loom protection was toast, that’s why I rebuilt the harness, but I’ll admit I’m paranoid of electrical shorts and fires. I’ve seen my share of them on pre-production cars where I used to work, so I have a bias.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
GMTEGear,

I see. I googled 'BMW LCI' to find out it means:
"The BMW designation LCI stands for Life Cycle Impulse. It is a term developed by BMW that represents the mid-cycle updates it gives certain models. A poplar misconception among the BMW community is that an LCI is just a cometic “facelift” to the vehicle – this is simply not true."
I get the impression see you are a very intelligent person.

My car is a 2006 which is pre LCI. I am still using the ECU and engine wire harness from the 2006 and swapped in the long block and accessories from a 2010. The reasons:
1) 2006 long block blown.
2) ECU already has a ECS Stage 3 tune.
3) ECU already 'paired' with cars ignition.
4) 2006 engine wire harness plugs into wires from body '1 to 1'. There were fewer wires on the 2010 engine wire harness and I dii not want any wires left unplugged.

So I am running a 2006 setup for all intensive purposes. Some may argue some differences on the long block. But I will address that later when/if it is a problem.

Right now I an trying to figure out where to run the cable from the bolt on the back of engine wire harness to. Any ideas?

Henry
 

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Post 16 in this thread. So go to page 1 or 2 in this thread. Right now I see that this thread is 4 pages
 

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BTW the pics I uploaded were from a 2010 also with less than 90k miles so the fact that it’s the last production year and hence newer has no relation to it being “older” or more “abused”. It’s piss poor engineering by BMW and conclusively demonstrates that they don’t have long term durability standards or testing procedures.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Yes, I found those pictures. Those are not the cables in question which I posted about this morning.

The picture I posted this morning is of a cable someone attached to a terminal bolt at the back of the engine wire harness plastic rail.

There seems to be a lot of confusion. I better go to the garage at this point and look things over again. Perhaps it is an extraneous cable someone just stuck on there.

Henry
 

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Right but the cables I had pictured ARE the ones that connect to the alternator and starter respectively. That should help you with the process of elimination.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
GMTEGear,

I looked up the part # of that cable connected to the insulated nut at the back off the plastic rail on my engine wire harness. It is BMW # 1436548. Turns out it is from an BMW E46 with description 'Cable starter-base B+'. So the plot thickens.

At this point I would like to start 'from the beginning'. Will someone run through the cables on their BMW E60 M5 engine in a 'Sesame Street' fashion with me? I am assuming that we all have seen Sesame Street. But perhaps not. Do you remember Big Bird? Ha ha. If not here is a video of Big Bird helping Snuffy count his feet.
www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Big+Bird+counting+video&docid=607989346842774340&mid=F1087FB6618ED4F66F59F1087FB6618ED4F66F59&view=detail&FORM=VIRE
Like Snuffy does not know how many feet he has, I do not know how many cables I am supposed to have. I hope you get a laugh out of this.

Please reply with a numbered list of each cable describing it's termination points as I have done:

This is what I have now:
1) cable from battery in trunk -to- jump start terminal (adjacent to left strut tower).
2) cable from jump start terminal -to- insulated nut at front of engine wire harness plastic rail.
3) cable from insulated nut at front of engine wire harness plastic rail -to- alternator.
4) cable from starter to -to- insulated nut at back of engine wire harness plastic rail.
5) cable from insulated nut at back of engine wire harness plastic rail -to- WHERE???.

Is this all of the cables -or- perhaps this is too many cables? Is cable # 5 needed? If so where does the other end of cable # 5 terminate?

Please help 'Snuffy'.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I have a cable from the starter to the insulated nut on the back of the plastic cover of the engine wire harness. Do I need to cable power to the same insulated nut or does it source it's power from inside the plastic rail?
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I just watched every youtube video I could find where they take the intake manifolds off. I did not see a separate cable to the insulated nut on the back (near fire wall) of the plastic cover/rail of the engine wire harness.

I am going to say it is not needed.

Please let me know if you know differently. Thanks.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #79
That power/battery cable is not needed.

I connected everything in the ECU Box. I put the exhaust back on. I put oil in the engine. I started it but only ran it for 5 seconds since no coolant.

That was the good news. The bad news is that I have a 'Transmission Malfunction'.

Next thing is I will have to troubleshoot that. The car is still on jack stands (with wheels in the air). I wonder if that is contributing to the transmission error.

I am sure there are tons of threads on here about the topic. I just have to find them.

Henry
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Well my BMW online friends, DIY engine swap and renovation project seemingly has taken a turn for the worse. I can no longer start the engine. I was able to start the engine at the beginning of the week after I got the engine, transmission, and exhaust bolted up. But never ran it for more than 10 seconds since no coolant in it yet. I am a little disheveled at times, but I did remember to fill the engine with oil.

Note 1: The car is on jack stands with replacement 2010 engine and transmission installed. But front end to include radiator, ac condenser, cooling fan, and oil cooler are not installed. Neither are the intake manifolds nor air filter boxes. So there are still many sensors left to be connected.

Note 2: I kept the the Engine ECU and transmission ECU and wire harnesses from the 2006 since engine engine ECU already programmed to the ignition system of the car. Also there were more plugs on the 2006 wire harnesses than the 20010 and wanted to able to plug in 1-to-1 with no extra wires left unplugged.

Note 3: There is an "Engine Malfunction', 'Transmission Malfunction', and 'Restraint System Malfunction' on the center display. I am hoping those clear themselves once the car is running.

In an effort to remedy this:
1) I disconnected the battery and after 10 minutes reconnected the battery. I could hear the SMG priming itself.
3) I sat in the driver seat and saw '1' on the dash. See attached picture IMG_1359.jpg.
4) I Inserted the key.
5) I pressed the 'Engine Start Stop' Button. The dash alternately displayed '1' and '1D' for about 10 seconds. At the same time the shifter illumination lights were flashing but always displaying 'N'. I could hear what sounded to me like the transmission trying to change gears.
6) After the 10 second light display, the dash was then displaying '1D' and the shifter was displaying 'N' (but flashing had stopped). See attached picture IMG_1360.jpg and IMG_1361.jpg.

7) I put my foot on the brake and pressed the 'Engine Start Stop' Button. But engine will not turn over.

Also the shifter is stuck in left position displaying 'N'. I cannot move it to the right at all not even with foot on brake, regardless of key position.

I do not know about the shifting operation of these cars. But it seems to me that the transmission is showing it is neutral ('N') in manual mode, but the dash is displaying it is in 1st Gear ('1D') in automatic mode. It's difficult for me to say, because I have yet to drive one of these cars. And the way things are going right now it may stay that way.

But the question begged: is the transmission in 1st gear or in neutral. So I got out and turned the rear wheels as if rolling forward. It was difficult but I could turn the wheels with some effort. To me that means the transmission is in Neutral. If it were in 1st gear I would also be turning the engine over to get the wheels to turn. And I am sure that did not happen.

I tried the transmission reset procedure:
A) put in key.
B) press 'Engine Start Stop' Button.
C) depress accelerator all the way to floor for 30 seconds.
D) release accelerator.
E) press 'Engine Start Stop' Button.
F) remove key.
G) open and close driver door.
H) try to start engine.

But I still cant turn over the engine.

Interestingly (or perhaps immaterial) I repeated the procedure starting with step 1). But this time I tried and was able to get the shifter to move over to the right in the automatic position. I was hoping this would allow the dash and the shifter to synch up. While I was able to move the shifter forward and backward I was not able change out of 1st gear. So I moved the shifter to the left back to manual mode. But the dash did not follow and continued to display '1D'.

I don't know. Maybe the car is smarter than me and this is it's way of telling me to put it the rest of the way back together before trying to start the engine.

Has anyone had a similar problem who can shed some light on how to remedy this?

Also does anyone know whether the transmission ECU is also programmed to either the engine ECU or the car ignition system? I was thinking maybe I should try putting the 2010 transmission ECU in and trying it. The thinking is that it matches up to the transmission.

Maybe I should just complete the grunt work of putting the car back together and them take it to an experienced indy shop. I don't even have a code reader or any software for the car.

Henry
 

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