BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

41 - 60 of 93 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
I created a DIY on swapping the studs. It was written assuming the slave cylinder was detached. I suppose you can try pressing them out with the cylinder still hooked up to the line, you just would need an appropriate tool. The force to get them out is not tremendous.

One method is to use one of those ball joint seperators to press out the stud, you'd need some plate or a piece of plywood with a through hole to allow the backend of the blind stud to pass through. The wood would serve as a bridge between the V or U flange of the ball joint separator.
936122
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Here is an update on the clutch slave cylinder bolt/stud swap. I took advantage of the fact that I have an 'old' engine/transmission I am replacing with a 'new' engine/transmission. I tried it on the old one first so that if it did not work I would not cause any damage to the new one. I did this with the clutch slave cylinder installed and did not remove any connections from it. Here is the procedure I followed:

1. removed the transmission from the engine.
2. removed the top 13 MM nut from the top bolt/stud inside the transmission bell housing.
3. removed the top bolt/stud by placing the longest socket extension rod I have (about 12") on the end of the bolt/stud and banging it with a hammer. It popped right out after about three wacks.
4. installed the bolt/stud from the inside of the bell housing.
5. I first hammered the bolt/stud with the socket extension to get it started, tightened the nut, and repeated these two steps until the bolt/stud was flush with the inside of the bell housing and the nut was tight on the outside of the bell housing.
6. I repeated steps 2 - 5 except on the other (lower) bolt/stud.

I reversed one at a time so the slave cylinder would still be held in place. The socket extension rod has a concave end which was very convenient for this job because it prevented it from slipping off the end of the bolt/stud when hammering it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Does anyone know where I can get the plugs for the engine wire harness that plug into the two sensors on each side (total of four) of the engine on top of the valve covers at the front of the engine?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
So it sounds like the stud swap was indeed pretty easy, based on my experience it actually is quicker to do the swap than the time it takes to write the words to do the job.

Regarding the broken hardshell connectors, a picture would help. I seem to think you may be talking about the plugs to the cam sensors, but without a picture or description of what it connects the connectors could be several things. Many of the connectors have tabs and shells that are very fragile and break. Most connectors can be ordered through BMW. Alot of them even have the BMW part numbers molded in to them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Someone had asked about the version of ECS tune that I have. I recently found out from the guy I bought the car from that it is ECS Stage 3 but no accompanying version #. I am guessing that tune will disregard the EGT sensors that I moved from the exhaust header of the old engine to the new engine.

I cleaned and lubed the transmission output shaft and clutch release as shown in this youtube video at the 32:58 mark.
I noticed in the video at the 31:58 mark that the old bearing being removed is spinning freely. The one in the donor transmission I am installing spins but for only about 1/2 to 1 full turn before it stops. It does not make any grinding noise. It does have some play from front to back but not so much from side to side. But I believe that is normal. Has anyone noticed if the E60 M5 throw out/clutch release bearing spins freely or how much play is in it? The transmission has 52K original miles on it and the throw out bearing is also factory original with 52K miles. I am trying to determine if functional or if I should replace it.

I was asking earlier in this thread if I can replace some connectors on the engine wire harness (without replacing the whole engine wire harness) and was asked to attach some pictures. So I attached a couple of pictures from the right/passenger side of the engine. The tabs on both plugs at the front right/passenger side of the engine are completely gone. Same with the left/driver side. So a total of 4 connectors are missing their tabs. You can see the engine oil fill tube in the pictures for reference. I am sure they deteriorate over time because of all the heating and cooling and how hot they get being so close to the valve cover of the engine. The only good news about these connectors is they have little gaskets that may help them stay in place. Plus the wires seem to be pushing them in place. But I would rather have new connectors if at all possible to prevent the possibility of false signals fouling things up.

Engine Wire Harness plug with no tabs pic # 1.jpg
Engine Wire Harness plug with no tabs pic # 2.jpg


Thanks for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
I did not get any responses regarding replacing the engine wiring harness plugs. So I guess they are not available for purchase aside from buying a whole new engine harness.

Now time to install the replacement engine. All the components that bolt onto the firewall inside the engine bay were removed by the previous owner. So I do not have the luxury of knowing how to replace them in reverse order. That parts include the cabin filter housings.

They are in a box the previous owner of the car gave me and sitting in a big box in my garage. It is tight quarters between the engine and the firewall. I want to get it right the first time. I have no desire to be pushing the engine in and out of the car several times while learning from trial and error. So please respond if you have experience with this. Should I install the engine first or the bolt the parts on the engine bay firewall first?

Henry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I have been reading 335xi's thread about the fuel injectors dumping fuel and blowing his engine. Reading this forum makes me very apprehensive about my engine swap project. For example, I do not want to install the replacement engine without replacing the broken engine wire harness plugs. Just do not know if they are available for purchase separate from whole engine wire harness. I am concerned they will come loose, cause a misfire, and cause an engine failure. I can tell you one thing though. I have taken extra time and precaution to protect all wires the best I can with electrical friction tape AND wire loom. I have terminated all ends with small zip ties to prevent them from 'peeling' off over time.

I am also hoping some one will respond to my questions about in which order to install things on the firewall.

Fingers and toes crossed.

Henry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
I was able to source the cam shaft position sensor wire connectors. They are aftermarket. I did not really see any other choice aside from buying a whole new harness$$$. The original/existing connectors are in too bad of shape to reuse. See attached pictures # 1, # 2, # 3, and # 4.

If you look closely at pic # 3 you can see that the wire coatings are broken. The breaks are where the wires make a sharp bend to wrap around and plug into the cam shaft position sensors. I am sure this would open up the possibility of bad signals to the ECU and possible misfiring.

Has anyone had any experience with aftermarket connectors like this. See attached picture # 5. These are Isumo brand. I am assuming they come from Japan. They claim to be 'OE Spec' for what that is worth.

I was not able to unplug a wire from the OEM connector and plug into the new connector. I tried but they are too different. So if I want to install these I will have to cut out the wire terminations and solder in the ones from the aftermarket connectors.

I do not see this as a problem. Plus it would allow me to lengthen the wires to the connector so they do not make such a sharp bend when plugged into the sensors. I need secure connections with no exposed wires.

Has anyone else had any experiences with these replacement connectors - good, bad, or indifferent? My thought is that the plastic from Japan may be more durable that the original Euro recycled counterpart. Any guidance would be appreciated before I make the final decision. Thanks.

Henry
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Interesting, so these fit exactly to the mating cavity on the camshaft sensor but the terminals are different and non compatible??? Where did you find these, it’s really odd that they would not be the same terminal design.

I looked at my hastened a few months ago when you posted about it. I see they have a BMW number on them but doesn’t seem like they sell them as a service part.

I’d focus on getting the engine back in the car and running before you hack the harness. You can access this easily with the engine in the car. Even with the retaining tabs broken it will still be seated reasonably well, certainly well enough to start trouble shooting the issues that will pop up from your swap.

what’s your question about what goes on the firewall and sequencing? That’s a really open ended question. I thought you pulled the old engine out in the first place. What do you have in “the box”? The micro filters and fresh air box assemblies are first to come off and last to be installed. How are you planning on installing the engine? From the front end or bottom? Upload some photos of the firewall and the left and right side rails. All those lines AC and coolant/heater hose must be in before you install the engine. Who ever pulled the prior engine may have cut the vacuum lines or heater hoses. Certain ones can be cut and replaced easily. Others are very expensive and hard to replace, especially the vacuum line.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,100 Posts
Interesting PN 12527835333 (got it from your pic) is available from online sellers / dealers. Just a thought if you want to get bmw connectors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Interesting PN 12527835333 (got it from your pic) is available from online sellers / dealers. Just a thought if you want to get bmw connectors.
Here is a pic of mine from a ‘10. It looks like this is design revision 2 and molded in dark chocolate vs OP’s which is rev 1 in white chocolate. I’d stick with BMW’s connector so you don’t have to recrimp the terminals and slide over some heat shrink tube to resolve the insulation fray. I use Raychem heat shrink it is very high quality industrial grade stuff. 1/8” dia tubing should be perfect.
938418
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #52
I did not see your posts about being able to purchase one-to-one replacements for the four (4) camshaft sensor connectors until today (06/22/20). I have already done the replacement with the aftermarket Japanese ones. I did not know you could purchase the one-to-one replacements without purchasing the whole wire harness. That would have been a lot less labor intensive. This is what happens when your time is stretched out.

Here are some pictures of the process:

1 - IMG_1023:
one (1) of the four (4) replacement cam shaft position sensor wire connectors.

2 - IMG_1024:
It plugs in the same as an OEM connector.

3 - IMG_1027:
But the spades that plug into the connectors are different (aftermarket on left, OEM on right).

4 - IMG_1030, 5 - IMG_1032:
Replace one wire at a time to ensure their original position. Cut, solder, wire shrink wrap. I extended the wires about 6" so that can run further from the valve cover but are still covered by the plastic covers that snap into place on top of the valve covers. I also did this so the bends in the wires are not so sharp. I noticed the original wire coating was crumbling and falling off in the areas where there were sharp bends.

6 - IMG_034:
Plug the soldered, shrink wrapped wire into the replacement connector in same position it came out of the OEM connector.

7 - IMG_035:
Repeat the process for the other two wires for the connector.

8 - IMG_036:
Put some wire loom on the wires for added heat protection.

9 - IMG_1122:
Cover the wire loom in electric friction tape and secured with zip ties. This is the right/passenger side.

10 - IMG_1124:
Repeat on the left/driver side.

I am going to say 6 one way and half dozen the other. Hopefully I did not do all this work for nothing. Hopefully the Japanese manufactured connectors, instead of the euro manufactured connectors (with recycled plastics), in combination with separating the wires from the valve covers and protecting with wire loom and friction tape will last longer under the extremely temperature ranges these wires and connectors endure being so close to the valve covers.

Henry
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Where did you order those Japanese connectors? Part number? I’ve had deterioration on the black split loom/convolute tubing right at the neck of the oil fill neck. That tubing protects the wiring to the injectors so I re did that. The heat isn’t extreme there it is just they are just junk eco friendly plastic. I think the oil also degraded the plastic too since on the other side I’ve not seen issues on any of my cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
I finally put the replacement engine and transmission back into the car and bolted them up. Many of the wires were already unplugged/unbolted when I bought the car. So I dis not see where they all were and could use some help on a couple wire terminations:

1) the battery cable that comes off the back of the wire harness. There are a couple of grooves in the top of the molded plastic wire loom that goes from the back of the engine towards the e-box. I believe the cable sits in there. But where it goes from there and where to terminate it, I am not sure. I suspect it goes down the firewall and terminates on the starter. But not sure. I attached a picture.

2) there are two grey wire connectors, each with two brown wires, in the ECU box I need to plug in. One comes from the engine harness. The other comes from the the transmission harness. There are two receptacles in the back left corner of my ECU Box. Either connector plugs into either receptacle. Does anyone one or will someone check there car to see which goes where. I attached a picture. You can see the grey receptacle behind the grey connectors in the picture.

This is a 2006 BMW E60 M5. Thank you.

Henry
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
1) I seem to recall that goes directly to the starter, which you can only get to underneath all of that wiring, so you will need to unplug almost all of the top wiring ( TA harnesses, idle actuators, coolant temp sensor, the 3 round plugs in the front, etc.). I don’t recall that wire having a red insulated terminal like you have.

2)Yep this is why you have to take pics.
940608
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
559 Posts
Regarding #1 I can’t tell which end of the wire this is based on your pic, one end goes to the starter, another goes to the bridge, where there is a junction and a big plastic nut, this then connects to a separate wire starting from that junction leading to the main 12v branch, I believe that’s up front on the driver side by the jump start terminal. It may be that the end you have in question goes up front. If you can confirm you already wired up the starter then that helps answer which end, but then I assume you wouldn’t have asked in the first place. Back when you first asked I had the top end of my engine bay apart and could have told you, but this goes back several months now and that’s all put back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
That makes sense. Ground is ground. It also explains why the connectors are not different.

Any ideas where to feed the cable from the back of the engine harness?

Henry
 
41 - 60 of 93 Posts
Top