Good Questions !
0. Yes, if the oil level exceeds 1.3L, it tells you to drain a bit. Your best bet is to take off the oil filter cap and that empties about 0.5Q.
1. No, a 0.1L excess can't badly damage. however, if the level goes OVER +1.5L, it may be unsafe to drive.
2. no, misfire isn't related to engine oil level in my opinion.
3. Yes, swap coils first, then spark plugs, one at a time to see if the code follows the swapped part.
4. No, Till the Oil Level warning comes, you don't have to worry. Do a quick measurement, let it warm up a bit, and when car is on perfectly level ground, check engine oil level.

 

Oil is unrelated to your problems. Assuming it's not an injector issue (can kill your engine) then yeah start swapping ign parts. Assuming also your plugs are fresh. Change interval is 35k.

 

Scheeeww, what a relief! I would hate to ruin my engine after all that work to swap it.

I contacted the guy who sold me the low mileage 2010 S85 engine. I found out the plugs were replaced but the ignition coils are original. Engine now has 55K miles.

I found out he had to replace an ignition coil (before selling it to me). I also had to replace an ignition coil shortly after I completed the engine swap.

So, without having done any diagnostics yet, my best guess is I need a new ignition coil in cylinder 5.

 

And how did he know plugs had been changed unless he was the donor car owner?

Point being start from basics, get new plugs. I've a theory that coils go bad when people don't change plugs. You've two engines so must've plenty of other spares.

 

Yes, he was the donor car owner.

So I guess you recommend getting all new plugs and ignition coils/packs? That has to be a pricey proposition.

 

Oh shoot, I just noticed that I also have a code 2B39 - misfire with cutoff, cyl. 5.

 

Replace all plugs only. Replace coils on an as-needed basis.

 

Is the recommendation to replace all plugs because of the code 2B39 - misfire with cutoff, cyl. 5?

Also, is there a plug you recommend?

 

Are these plugs as good as any?

LKR8AP - OEM NGK Spark Plug Set - LKR8AP - E6X M5 M6 | Turner Motorsport

Henry

 

I found some great priced plugs on eBay:

1) For BMW E60 M5 E63 E64 M6 Conv. Set of 10 Spark Plugs High Power 4471 NGK LKR8AP | eBay

2) Set of 10 BMW E60 M5 E63 E64 M6 Spark Plugs NGK Laser Platinum | eBay

Would you recommend item 1 or 2?

Henry

 

Good to see you back Henry and you are enjoining the beast that wiped off all the sweats.

As mentioned above replace all spark plugs and possibly coil #5. Instead of replacing all coils do this favor and replace all injectors, they could damage the engine with no warning. Here a link of an OEM original Bosch, this is a very good deal you will not find it anywhere.

10 Fuel Injectors For BOSCH BMW M5 M6 2006-2010 0-280-158-036 0280158036 | eBay

For BMW M5 M6 2006-2010 Set of 10 Fuel Injectors Bosch 0-280-158-036. 2006-2010 BMW M6. 2006-2010 BMW M5. 10 x 0-280-158-036 Bosch Fuel Injectors.

www.ebay.com

.
I bought a set from this seller 6 months ago for 230$ now it is 185$.

 

Ok, sounds great!

Would you use the regular NGK plugs or the laser platinum?

1) For BMW E60 M5 E63 E64 M6 Conv. Set of 10 Spark Plugs High Power 4471 NGK LKR8AP | eBay

2) Set of 10 BMW E60 M5 E63 E64 M6 Spark Plugs NGK Laser Platinum | eBay

 

Both links are the same parts.
Most important is not to deviate from oem spark plugs as they are igniters and feed back sensors.

 

Of course, if the oil level exceeds 1.3L, it tells you to drain a bit. You should take off the oil filter cap and that empties about 0.5Q.

 

Is that you Sunil 😄 ?

Spammers...

 

Plati,

I'm going to take everyone's advice to replace all the fuel injectors and spark plugs. The cost of the fuel injectors and spark plugs is $250. Since I'm doing the labor myself. It would be foolish not to do it all at once. I am going to order a spare ignition coil pack is well. Just in case I have a faulty one. If I don't have a faulty one I'll just have one on hand as a spare.

Plati,

Are the spark plugs in the links I posted considered OEM plugs which can also act as sensots. Just double-checking before I place the order. Thank you.

 

Yes they are OEM plugs.

 

An ignition coil pack went bad shortly before the previous owner donated the engine and transmission to me. Another went bad shortly after I did the engine/transmission swap. Now there may be a 3rd that has gone bad. I just have not had time to test for it yet.

Since I will be replacing all the fuel injectors and all the spark plugs, I am also tempted to replace all the ignition coil packs while I am in there.

I see a lot of performance ones with promises of better gas mileage, smoother idle, better throttle response, etc. It may worth the money since I will be doing myself. Does anyone have an opinion about whether these deliver as advertised?

Thank you.

 

Well there's my 100k-mile old coils that refuse to quit. Coincidence that my plugs have been replaced on time? Doubt it... Post pics of your old plugs when you change them. It'll be obvious if they have 20k or 55k.

I know the search function on the site sucks but you need to do some homework too. Pretty much all you've asked has been discussed many times already. You'll get tons more info if you put the time in doing research vs. getting one or two replies. Just saying...

Keep us posted.

 

The spark plugs and fuel injectors I ordered early this week arrived. I started by changing the spark plugs 1-5. While doing that I swapped the ignition coil pack between cylinder 4 & 5.

I started the car and I got a different code: 2B45. This time it is for cylinder 4 instead of cylinder 5. I think that means I have a bad ignition coil pack. That is the 2nd bad one I had since renovating this car. I have only driven it 3K miles. Plus the guy who I bought the donor engine/transimission from reported having to replace a ignition coil pack not to long before he crashed his car.

I bought one used ignition coil pack from a seller on eBay out of Portland, OR. early in the week. There is still no tracking # for it. I messaged him - crickets.

I think the right thing to do is replace all the spark plugs, fuel injectors, and ignition coil packs with new all at once and take it from there.

Thanks for all the help.

Henry

 

Good to hear. Post a few pics of the old plug tips if you can.

 

Here is a pic of the old spark plugs.

Thank you.

Henry

 

I am purchasing these ignition coil packs:
6PCS OEM FOR BOSCH BMW E46 E60 E85 E90 IGNITION COIL SET 12137594937 0221504470 | eBay

As far as I can tell these are OEM and suitable for my vehicle:
2006 BMW E60 M5 S85.
VIN # WBSNB93596B584271

As a side note, I have been lifting the front my car under the reinforcement/skid plate because the jack pad is missing. Add that to the long list of ways this car was abused by the previous owner(s). But it could be it was intentional because he had the car lowered so much it may have been ripped off by a speed bump.
BMW part # 31112282957.
RealOEM link:
RealOEM.com - Online BMW Parts Catalog

Does anyone know how this is attached to the crossmember?

Thank you.

Henry

 

I ended up buying five used genuine coils from an eBay seller. I replaced the ignition coil pack on cylinder 4. Coincidentally, it was a Bremi brand one. There was another Bremi brand one. So, I also replaced it.

Took my car (2006 BMW E60 M5 S85 with 2010 S85 engine swap) on a test run. Got the increased emissions message on the dash and in the navigation display. But it was not going into limp mode.

So, I hooked up ISTA and cleared the code.

Took my car on another test run. No engine messages and running great. There are still two codes, one for the satellite and one for the fog sensor. But I will save those for another time.

Thank you for all the help.

Henry

 

I was highway driving tonight when I got Increased Emissions message on my Navigation Display (center of dashboard) and also got a Service Engine Soon message on my odometer. But car did not go into limp mode. And power and idle are as good as ever.

Read the codes when I got home: 27AA. I was able to clear the code. But it is too late at night to drive it and see if the code comes back again. Don't want to upset the neighbors adjacent to the townhouse I live in this late at night.

I researched it on here and seems like many got it after changing out the O2 sensors. Many say it has more to do with the idle actuators. One even mentioned the PCV connectors on the back of the air intake plenum.

I swapped a 2010 S85 Engine and SMG transmission into 2006 BMW E60 M5 car using the harness from the 2006. I think I remember I heard the idle actuators are different between the 2006 and 2010 cars.

Would anyone recommend I run the engine adaption in INPA in order to match up the idle actuators with the 2006 wiring and ECU?

Also, one of the pcv connectors on my car is cracked. But I think it is only the release mechanism and I would be surprised if it is leaking air. But it is on the right side of the engine/bank 1 where I got the code.

Hmmm. Where to start?

Thank you.

Henry

 

The fault 27AA means the adaptation values exceeded on Bank 1.
I would read the adaptation in INPA and copy it for further study then delete the adaptation and test drive the car to see if the fault returns or any other associated fault like air, fuel, cat fault trigger.
I would also monitor the o2 sensor live data if both banks are reading properly.
DME>F5>>F2>I/O 4.
To read adaptation:
DME>F9>F1, to need to copy and save all 8 pages, use the DOWN/UP arrow on your keyboard to switch pages.
Ro delete adaptation:
DME>F9>F2>SHIFT+F9 and then DME>F9>F3>SHIFT+F9.

One even mentioned the PCV connectors on the back of the air intake plenum.

Check that, a vacuum leak will cause o2 sensor adaptation issue.
Report back.

 

Shoot! I cleared the code before Plati replied. So probably too late to read out information.

Drove it a couple of times. No new codes.

 

Adaptation READ is different thing you still can read it as I mentioned above, deleting the above fault doesn't change adaptation. By the way there nothing called "run DME adaptation" you only can read them or delete them.