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2002 e39 m5 ticking/knocking sound

6K views 34 replies 12 participants last post by  Jhoh 
#1 ·
Hey everyone my m5 started making this ticking/knocking sound I cant seem to identify. Started after high rpm in 3rd gear car has 101k. I replaced the timing chain tensioner on the left side issues didnt change. No codes and it dosen't seem to have power loss. Car didnt go above 2k rpm in video noise loaduiest at 1.5k in video.

 
#3 ·
This is where some sound analysis software would be helpful, and unfortunately I am not an expert in that. The two most likely causes are rod knock or lifter tick. Hard to tell from the video, but rod knock would be at the frequency of crank rotation and lifter tick at half of that frequency. If anyone can analyze the sound file then this may answer the question.
 
#5 ·
Pull the valve cover off that bank and don't start the car again. Might be a totally collapsed lifter, very rare on these cars. Could be the cam chain tensioner failed, or maybe the spring clip that holds the vanos pump in place is half off and smacking something? If you remove the cover it will probably be self evident. Running the car is just going to make things worse, so don't do that. It could also be the timing chain but they don't really sound like that, but that is videos, they change things. If you don't see anything up top drain the oil and pull the lower pan looking for plastic bits that were once the chain guides.
 
#8 ·
That does not sound good. Broken rocker arm?

I would NOT run the engine until you get some help on diagnosis. Right now it is still running, so damage is not excessive....YET.

Regards,
Jerry
 
#16 ·
rod bearings forsure given those shavings. If you see any plastic bits that means your chain guides are gone as well. Check your camshaft for scoring once you remove the oil pan. Cross your fingers and hope for the best cause if the camshaft is damaged you need a complete bottom end rebuild or may as well get a new engine.
 
#18 ·
I guess I should have stated the obvious with the video, the car was only started to help diagnose the issue. Xrviz if you would read the thread before posting all of your questions would be answered. The car was stored for 4 months. However it did receive an oil change before being driven with Castrol. Before the car was stored it had less than 3000 miles put on it in about 12 mouths. The year before that was also about the same.
 
#20 · (Edited)
In the first post I describe how it happen, when it happened was within a week of putting the car back on the road. The car ran flawlessly and drove home after the noise started with no noticeble difference but the new tick, it also still starts on the first click of the key. The material in the pan would best be described as lead or graphite from a pencil. Dose anyone know forsure if rod bearings produce metal shavings or are the bearings made from a softer material that could dissolve like this?
 
#34 ·
JHOH did u I ever find out the problem or resolved the issue? Was it the rod bearings? Seems like a ticking time bomb ready to happen. Just curious on any current findings. I am on the same boat same noise and on the fence if just swap out the motor or rebuilt. Much appreciated your reply.
 
#23 ·
Not trolling bro actually trying to help. There are many threads on metal particles in oil. I've had some in my oil filter at times. From what I've read you can't usually tell where they are coming from without digging in and finding the issue.
Based on the noise you have the most like would be bearing, VANOS, or chain guide failure.
Also the chain tensioner comes pre-loaded. I'm assuming you didn't test it before you put it in, that can unload it and then it fails to put correct tension on the chain.
Did you notice any copper glitter in the oil?
The bearing are made of tin layer surface and lead-copper alloy base to my understanding.
When the guides fail you typically get plastic parts in the oil pan. Take a look in your oil pump also.
 
#33 ·
Not trolling bro actually trying to help. There are many threads on metal particles in oil. I've had some in my oil filter at times. From what I've read you can't usually tell where they are coming from without digging in and finding the issue.
Based on the noise you have the most like would be bearing, VANOS, or chain guide failure.
Also the chain tensioner comes pre-loaded. I'm assuming you didn't test it before you put it in, that can unload it and then it fails to put correct tension on the chain.
Did you notice any copper glitter in the oil?
The bearing are made of tin layer surface and lead-copper alloy base to my understanding.
When the guides fail you typically get plastic parts in the oil pan. Take a look in your oil pump also.
Oh wow. Is there any truth to this? I just installed an oem chain tensioner that opened up on me before installing and it went in just fine after pushing in. Is it true that unloading it before install can put the incorrect tension on the chain? Do I need to buy another tensioner and install it compressed and unopened? Thoughts, guys?
 
#24 ·
I am curious if you have got an update on what the problem is? I have the exact same noise coming. Haven’t pulled the pan yet but I’ve been reading a lot of threads and I think it is the rod bearings. What I’m trying to figure out now is it better to fix it? Or just get a new engine. With a knock like that l, does it mean the crank will be scored for sure?
 
#27 ·
How many miles do you have when this happened I am curious what oil are you using and when change every 3500? Do you drive the car often or a garage queen. Do yuh ou drive dsr hard at all. Just want to know how this is caused. I have the same issue I plan on just changing the motor. Saving money at the moment.
 
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