Mine were original too after ~108k miles and I experienced the same thing: smoother idle but that's about it. It may pull a little harder but that could be just my wishful thinking.Plausible, I guess. I honestly surprised that it runs about the same after plugs swap. Idles definitely smoother, but overall, not a noticeable change. You would think with plugs that look like that....
So I did change spark plugs yesterday. The process is pretty straightforward, but you probably need to take the cabin filter assemblies off for easier access. Stupid gaskets on those covers could have been designed a bit better, what a pain to put these back on.
Bremis were in good shape on both banks, though one in each was not original. As long as they work, right?
Now, to the spark plugs themselves. Man, I was absolutely SHOCKED when I pulled the first one out. The plugs are obviously ORIGINAL, 111,700 Miles on these. Electrodes are pretty much gone on all, surprised these were still working. Most plugs needed a bit of breaking to start turning – but were coming out smoothly after that – except one plug (Cy. 3) which game me a scare about stripped thread, but all was ok in the end. New plug went in just fine and torqued to spec.
The question to the board is the following – what can you read/tell about the health of the engine looking at these? I obviously see some dry fouling because of the electrode completely eroded, but why the heck are these pretty much corroded all the way through?
None of the plugs were wet when came out, no oil outside, but rust on the outside has me puzzled. Maybe this is just deposits? Not sure. Anyone more experienced, please chime in.
3199 plugs you referring to are double platinum 4-prong NGK BKR6E QUP. The plugs that I used are 7092 NGK BKR6E GP, which are 1-prong platinum tip plugs. They are essentially the same plug, but I prefer 1-prong plugs. Aside from the fact that they are much cheaper, they can be gaped if needed, and honestly, last about the same as the 4-prong double plats anyway. Bought at Autozone.I think the deposits on old plugs is dried oil that leaked through valve cover gaskets. Imagine that job's on your list. New plug pictured doesn't look like the NGK 3199 I'm familiar with though. Where did you source those from? Very nice work on your car by the way.
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I thought I had found the correct 1 at first, but like you, I found that it wouldn’t fit. Yours being a ‘00, it’s important to note whether your production date is before or after 05/00. The link below will show the differences and what PN you need to look for. I recently located a cased 1 in the UK but haven’t received it yet.Can somebody post a part number for the warning triangle that actually fits in the tool kit insert in the trunk? I'm buying second triangle that doesn't fit.
Yeah, that is what I used to pick up mine, and it doesn't fit. Not sure if there some part number mixups. Thanks though. Will post an update soon! Was real busy with finishing up M3.I thought I had found the correct 1 at first, but like you, I found that it wouldn’t fit. Yours being a ‘00, it’s important to note whether your production date is before or after 05/00. The link below will show the differences and what PN you need to look for. I recently located a cased 1 in the UK but haven’t received it yet.
BMW E39 Warning Triangle
Sounds like that’s correct mac, MY ‘00 came with the rears deactivated. There’s a good summary of MY airbag specs by CSBM5 here-I had read about it in the past but after a quick search couldn’t find it.
The airbags do have to be coded to the car.
My MY00 looks just as yours does.
I thought this was the way the MY00 came from what I read in the past but couldn’t find where I read it.
I have the same sticker on my '03. Makes sense.
Yup, it was definitely done by a dealer. Disconnecting the airbags and then coding them out was how it was done back in the day. I have the same sticker and disconnected airbags on my MY 2000 car as well.