BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

61 - 80 of 229 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Under the hood there were several things that needed attention. After thorough inspection, I saw some old fluid leaks that were not cleaned up (ABS module was replaced due to leak sometime ago, and remaining fluid was still there, same with power steering reservoir/lines – these were fixed at some point, but the residual fluid was still everywhere), there were few worn and broken bits, and some panels that were deteriorating and needed to be replaced. Finally, I planned on changing all the filters, and do an oil change. Below are few shots of the condition the engine bay was when I got the car:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

The firewall covers were absolutely destroyed. Chunks of these were actually lodged between the back of the block and the firewall! Note missing caps on the wiper arm.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Since previous owner gave me windshield cowl with the car, this is where I started. Looks like he already replaced the bits around the cowl and windshield, but cowl replacement required pulling wiper arms, and was a bit involved. I have pulled wipers:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Old cowling is out:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

New cowl (Steve also included new rivets, which is mighty nice of him):

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Installed:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Then I turned my attention to the firewall covers – old bits were removed – they literally were crumbling under my fingers. Not much were left of them when they were removed:
Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Hood sensor ear was broken off and the switch was just laying there. I decided against spending $150 on the new cabin filter housing, and just superglued the switch to the remaining ear and zip-tied it for extra strength. Should work for now, maybe later on I will get new housing.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Washer fluid cap was cracked and not holding on to the bottle neck, so I replaced it with new OEM piece:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Oil was changed – went with Liqui Molly 10w60 as a heard a lot of good things about this oil (I use Castrol in my M6), Mann filter, pretty straightforward job:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Also changed both cabin and air filters with Mann cartridges. Air filters in the car were K&N units that needed oiling and were pretty dirty. I know these are re-usable, so kept them and maybe will clean and use them later.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Housings were thoroughly cleaned before new filters installation:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Gaskets and foam under the cabin filter housings were pretty deteriorated and dirty, so I decided to replace that as well after good engine cleaning:

by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Ports were stuffed with some rags so the water does not seep inside. After that I gave it the engine bay a quick wash, then soaked every possible nook with simple green, and let it sit for about 20 minutes.

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Took about 2 hours of scrubbing, brushing, and blasting the engine and every panel with my trusty Karcher to get all the grime, dirt, residues, and who knows what else off the engine. Foam pieces under the housings were replaced:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Housings and firewall covers installed, new filters are in:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Got wiper arm covers and a rear door handle cover from Clemster:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

New M-badge:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

And FINALLY, after hours of additional cleaning, the engine bay is looking the way it is supposed to for a car like this:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Finally, got some bling:

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Untitled by Alex Kustov, on Flickr

Trunk is next, while I’m deciding on suspension pieces and waiting for a few parts to arrive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
Excellent work! It's so satisfying seeing engine bays come to life. Just need to get a new expansion tank. ;)

When I did the VCG, I noticed some of the electrical connections weren't in great shape due to heat, and so I'm paranoid about washing the bay. Did you take extra precaution and wrap any electric connectors with plastic or anything? Also I'm assuming your power washer has a narrow nozzle option so you can control the flow?

My firewall is also in rough shape but not as bad as yours. I haven't looked closely at it yet but does anything need to be removed to get it out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
245 Posts
FYI a cabin filter from any other junk E39 will work. As mentioned previously, you can also PM Clemster (Adam). I'm sure he'll have a lot of a little things that you can use. Great thread!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Excellent work! It's so satisfying seeing engine bays come to life. Just need to get a new expansion tank. ;)

When I did the VCG, I noticed some of the electrical connections weren't in great shape due to heat, and so I'm paranoid about washing the bay. Did you take extra precaution and wrap any electric connectors with plastic or anything? Also I'm assuming your power washer has a narrow nozzle option so you can control the flow?

My firewall is also in rough shape but not as bad as yours. I haven't looked closely at it yet but does anything need to be removed to get it out?
Old expansion tank seems fine to me. I actually like the look of the old yellowed plastic! not sure how long this is going to last though, so it will be replaced at some point.

I have never covered anything or wrapped any components while washing engine bays. I have done it for 25 years now, and always used power washer on the highest setting and blast away to clean off stubborn dirt and grease. Obviously I don't spray directly into the generator, wires/connectors or electronic modules, but everything else is a fair game. Not once there was a problem - they seem to take these baths pretty well.

Firewall pieces are held by 3 twist-off clips, plastic plug, and a 4 metal clips on top. That's all, literally takes about 3 minutes to remove and the same time to install. Both pieces together are $94 shipped at ECS.

FYI a cabin filter from any other junk E39 will work. As mentioned previously, you can also PM Clemster (Adam). I'm sure he'll have a lot of a little things that you can use. Great thread!
Yes, I got some bits from Adam. I think I'm fine with my solution for the time being, unless it breaks quickly. I'm dumping lots of $$ into the car right now to fix things that are needed, will address less important things later on.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
632 Posts
Old expansion tank seems fine to me. I actually like the look of the old yellowed plastic! not sure how long this is going to last though, so it will be replaced at some point.

I have never covered anything or wrapped any components while washing engine bays. I have done it for 25 years now, and always used power washer on the highest setting and blast away to clean off stubborn dirt and grease. Obviously I don't spray directly into the generator, wires/connectors or electronic modules, but everything else is a fair game. Not once there was a problem - they seem to take these baths pretty well.

Firewall pieces are held by 3 twist-off clips, plastic plug, and a 4 metal clips on top. That's all, literally takes about 3 minutes to remove and the same time to install. Both pieces together are $94 shipped at ECS.



Yes, I got some bits from Adam. I think I'm fine with my solution for the time being, unless it breaks quickly. I'm dumping lots of $$ into the car right now to fix things that are needed, will address less important things later on.

Thanks!
Its really a good idea to have that coolant tank changed. You may think its cool in color but its an indicator that it should be changed or just a time bomb waiting to go off. Brittle plastic under pressure Hmmm?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
The pressure in the expansion tank is minimal. I will change it at some point, it's not critical right now.

I have another question - drove the car to work today, noticed some rattling sounds from back door cards it seems - but everything seems snug and no apparent loose stuff - is there anything inside that typically could get detached and rattle? I would hate to take off rear door panels for nothing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
540 Posts
The pressure in the expansion tank is minimal. I will change it at some point, it's not critical right now.



I have another question - drove the car to work today, noticed some rattling sounds from back door cards it seems - but everything seems snug and no apparent loose stuff - is there anything inside that typically could get detached and rattle? I would hate to take off rear door panels for nothing.


Potentially the pockets, the glue on these get brittle and need refurbishment. Also there may be some broken clips on the panels themselves?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #69
Thanks, I will check door pockets. If I end up pulling door panels off - anything I need to be aware of or is this just like any other door cards? Take the door handle, pull the panel off? Anything I need to do for the sunshades?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
815 Posts
Thanks, I will check door pockets. If I end up pulling door panels off - anything I need to be aware of or is this just like any other door cards? Take the door handle, pull the panel off? Anything I need to do for the sunshades?
While you have the panels off check the seal of the vapor barriers. It's common for the rear door vapor barriers to be leaking, allowing water to travel into the rear foot wells. There's 2 camps, 1 says use 3M polybutylene to reseal, and the other says use Sicone. Other common failures in the doors are lock actuators and window regulators. This leads to the vapor barriers being pulled off for access, and not resealed well. This is where the 2 camps differ, because if you need to open it again, do you want to deal with Silicone, or the butyl product which reportedly fails on its own. Look for water marks on the bottom of your panels for signs, or after a good wash check for dampness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Thanks, I will check door pockets. If I end up pulling door panels off - anything I need to be aware of or is this just like any other door cards? Take the door handle, pull the panel off? Anything I need to do for the sunshades?
The door panels are pretty easy - I just installed new speakers in all the doors from BAV Sound. Their install videos give a good idea of what to expect. As was mentioned, check all your clips when the panel is out just in case.

Also, this thread is amazing! Keep the updates coming, the car is beautiful.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
Thanks!
Btw, how is the bavsound speaker upgrade? Worth it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Definitely worth it in my opinion. I love them. The stock DSP amp is not nearly as bad as most people seem to think, and the BAV Sound speakers really demonstrate that. They are the "easy button" option for sure, but exactly what I was looking for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Definitely worth it in my opinion. I love them. The stock DSP amp is not nearly as bad as most people seem to think, and the BAV Sound speakers really demonstrate that. They are the "easy button" option for sure, but exactly what I was looking for.
I'm going to have to have a listen next time I see you. I still need M audio subs too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #76
Thanks all!

Got my oil analysis from the last oil change from Blackstone - everything looks good. Pretty happy with the numbers for 11K miles on the oil.
11K miles interval is not what I will be running my oil (obviously) and I'm not 100% sure this one was in for 11K but its the last documented oil change I could find in the bunch of paperwork, and PO mentioned that it needs an oil change, so I'm assuming this is correct.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #77 (Edited)
Not much of an update, simply because I only really have two big ticket items I want to tackle left on my list (well, 3 – but 3rd is more of a maintenance really).
One is to refinish wheels – but I’m not doing it now for two reasons:

1. I can’t find a company that will refinish wheels in chrome shadow in DFW (any suggestions are welcome), and not willing to ship as I don’t have a set of wheels to mount on it while these are gone. Rimspec claims they could do it, but I’m not really sure. When I said I want these in Shadow Chrome finish, they asked “what is that, like black chrome or something?” Anyone used these guys?

2. The wheels have a nearly new set of Michelins on it, and I don’t think I want to take them off, refinish wheels, then re-mount the tires – I would probably wait until the tires need replacement and refinish my wheels then.

Next project would be to replace all shocks, bushings, links, etc – refresh suspension – but this is a bit of a more involved both time-wise (I do the work myself) and $$-wise. I don’t want to peace-meal it, and buying everything at once would be a bit straining on my budget right now, as I also have an M6 that is at the shop with gearbox problems and I’m expecting a hefty bill for that repair at the end of the week.

Last is I want to do coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid, diff fluid, and change fuel filter and spark plugs, which I will tackle over time, as time allows. There are also a few other small bits and pieces here and there, but they are much of a priority right now.

I did some rattle-tracking over the weekend and was taking few panels off and lining them with foam – original foam pieces disintegrated by now, and were not cushioning enough. And as I was looking inside after taking knee panel under the wheel, I found this – with wires cleanly cut off – another evidence that the device mounted in the front is some kind of a aftermarket jammer. I didn’t trace it any further cause it was hot and I was too lazy to start taking panels off and then put them back on.




I have also bought period-correct M mobility kit (just for completeness, not going to even carry this around), and top foam insert from Adam.




I also got an E38 7er jack and wheel choke from eBay just to have in the car in case I get a flat or something. And a can of non-expired fix-o-flat in there, but really thinking about getting a spare to put in the trunk.

My son also added some vinyl M-striping to the battery cover (he is 11). He is finally getting interested enough in working on cars and helps me out in the garage a lot. M Coupe is his favorite though!

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Discovered that windshield washer pump is bad this morning. I guess I will have to take the bumper off now anyway, seeing how I need to pull that right side porkchop to access the pump. And the bumper have to come off to remove that stupid jammer thingy. Oh well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,063 Posts
Discussion Starter #79
So I did change spark plugs yesterday. The process is pretty straightforward, but you probably need to take the cabin filter assemblies off for easier access. Stupid gaskets on those covers could have been designed a bit better, what a pain to put these back on.




Bremis were in good shape on both banks, though one in each was not original. As long as they work, right?



Now, to the spark plugs themselves. Man, I was absolutely SHOCKED when I pulled the first one out. The plugs are obviously ORIGINAL, 111,700 Miles on these. Electrodes are pretty much gone on all, surprised these were still working. Most plugs needed a bit of breaking to start turning – but were coming out smoothly after that – except one plug (Cy. 3) which game me a scare about stripped thread, but all was ok in the end. New plug went in just fine and torqued to spec.





The question to the board is the following – what can you read/tell about the health of the engine looking at these? I obviously see some dry fouling because of the electrode completely eroded, but why the heck are these pretty much corroded all the way through?




None of the plugs were wet when came out, no oil outside, but rust on the outside has me puzzled. Maybe this is just deposits? Not sure. Anyone more experienced, please chime in.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
535 Posts
I'd guess there was a leak in the beauty cover gaskets and moisture got in somehow a while ago when the car sat, causing the rust, then vaporized once it ran again. That's how mine looked on Bank 2. Bank 1 there was no rust but that's cuz it was full of oil. :)
 
61 - 80 of 229 Posts
Top