BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi: all
We have very weird behavior in this car .
We put genuine fuel pump and also genuine both fuel level sensor,,new fuel filter ,,new pressure regulator,,new brake lines .new fuel injectors,,new spark plugs.fuel relay is new.
We are at third fuel pump now cos second one just died and there is puppels when we took it out and tested it..I think it is leaking
Car totally stock
Now fuel pump keep dying within a week maybe less than that .
We did not clean the fuel tank as this left not done .
What you member thought about this issues ,,anyone have this behavior before and what was the solution.
Any chance if the fuel tank is dirty will do this? I do not know .
Please we tired everything that we know of this ,,,and we need to sorted out.
What is it ,,I do not surrender very easy but this issue is making me nervous.

Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
469 Posts
Remove bottom part of back seat
You will see a big bung with a screw off cover on the right hand side of car, you will need to lift up the rubber mat cover over it, you will see fuel pump feed line and power connection going into the cover. Remove those and unscrew the cover, with a torch you should be able to look into the tank and see if it is clean in there.
DO not blow yourself up, make sure you have all the doors open and car is ventilated with fresh air.
THe less fuel in the tank the easier it will be to see how clean it is.

cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you.
I need to know what is making fuel pump to die ,, is it the tanks ,,or something else .
Will clean tank out today and put new fuel pump.
I hope we do not face same problems.

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,140 Posts
I need to know what is making fuel pump to die
There was a recent user that had an issue with a bad ground for the relay and pump that was killing pumps. The thread is not helpful because he was bad at testing and often had the wrong results from his tests. So it is very confusing but once he did things right he repaired the joint where the two grounds are crimped together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you.
Will check that also .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Car is good after replacing fuel pump .
now we have this code ,,,,50 switch chain friction connection.
I see car does not have power down low but when I reach close to 4000 rpm the car jump and has power.
is it clutch slippage that making car not having power and torque and low rpm?
is it relates to this code ( 50).
we have no faults at all except code 50 only
what is it ?
please I need some help.
by the way car has 268000 miles in odo.
we do not know if clutch has been changed before or not,

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Well if you have clutch slippage I would guess that the slippage would get worse when you are making more power at the high rev range.

Code 50 is usually present when there is clutch slippage BUT it maybe due to a faulty clutch switch. Check if you can use the cruise control.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Cruise control not working ,,what is part # for clutch switch?
is it this one Clutch Pedal Safety Switch - E36, E46, E39, X5, Z3, Z8

if yes I already change it nothing happen same code coming 50
and cruise control not working.
does code 50 affect throttle responses ?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
There are 2 sensors, 1 on the pedal, item 22 in the following table.
RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 CLUTCH CONTROL

and 1 on the gear box, item 11 on the following table.
RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 S6S420G INNER GEAR SHIFTING PARTS

The attachment show how it works (sorry for the bad capture, I'm still trying to manage VMWare....)

Check both.
From the thread I included..
There are apparently two different sensors that could cause the issue.

Try starting your car without pressing the clutch pedal. All US cars (unless coded by an individual) should not start without the clutch being pressed. Of course, don't try this with the gear in.
If you can start the engine without pressing the clutch pedal (i.e. releasing the clutch) you have a problem with the clutch pedal switch.
Which is this I believe
There are 2 sensors, 1 on the pedal, item 22 in the following table.
RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 CLUTCH CONTROL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
But I have euro model ,,I do not need to press clutch to start car ,,car start without depressing clutch.
Someone told me it is timing chain and adjust Vanos timing for that code 50
Is he right ?
Cos car has no power down low but when reach near 4000 rpm car jump and power is there but with load noise from engine.
Really confused now .
Is it clutch,, timing chain with adjustable timing the Vanos ,,or other thing?

Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I am no professional and I can't answer anything more than that but the symptoms fit I guess.
If VANOS is not doing what it's supposed to do, I think that the engine may only run nicely in the high rev range. (I.e. the timing is stuck at advanced)

But again, if that is the case I think you would have a very rough idle like a car fitted with modified cams.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok,, but no rough idle at all car as silks at idle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
What is the knock sensors do in this car and in my situation?
Does it have any impact in down low power of the car ?
Should not I have code if my timing is off?

Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
I would think that if the knock sensors (ultrasonic sensors) were to detect knocking, you would probably get an error code. I highly recommend you to purchase a ISTA cable as well the a fresh copy of ISTA-D to diagnose your problem correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,140 Posts
Someone told me it is timing chain and adjust Vanos timing for that code 50
Is he right ?
No he is not right. The code 50 is the clutch switch or wiring. There could be many issues here, possibly the wrong part was used. There are a few choices and some could depend on which software version you are running. I just don't remember the details, might be Euro and US cars don't suffer the same complication with the updates. US cars have had issues but you will have to search and read. I can't say there were any changes in the Euro cars but there were in the US cars.
Lack of power down low is a common Vanos symptom, but the same symptom can be created by other things even a simple above throttles air leak, unmetered air. The problem is the car is new to you so you have no idea where to start.
That is why I replaced certain things straight away when I would pick up a new one. I always replaced all 4 CPS, cleaned the vanos boards, swapped out the TPS and usually the MAFs and installed 4 new O2s if they looked like they had been in a while. With all those things done I could start figuring out what was really an issue.
I don't know what you are doing with the car but you have had a few. Even if you are flipping them you should want them right for the new buyer and all those things are maintenance and all cars need them at some point.
If you found a new style CPS when changing the others you might leave that in and put the new one on the shelf for the next car. Once the car has been running with those new parts and the adaptions are set you can swap in the old MAFs and see if there is a change. No change leave the old MAFs in and put the new ones on the shelf for the next car. The O2 sensors and replacing the TPS are just a no brainer and not much money considering the price of the car.

You already know that VANOs can be a pain and don't throw codes, and that the old style CPS are prone to make the car run poorly. You also know that the boards plug up so these things should be your first steps with any car you pick up. It just saves so much time doing some work you know has not likely been done right of the bat. You might save some money not doing it if the system is good but tracking down the symptoms if there are some costs a huge amount of time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thank you sailor to chime in.
I totally understand this.
I was waiting for your comment.
What are you talking in terms of parts all new in car .except TPS not changed.
I do not know if it will make any difference.
What do you say ..should I change TPS ?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,140 Posts
What do you say ..should I change TPS ?
That is sort of an optional one, I started doing it because there were many posts here on failings with no codes and they are cheap. I also worked on two types of diesel trucks that had TPS issues and no codes so it was a personal choice to avoid possible problems and cheap compared to the big picture.
If you have all those parts in look at the full trims and see if you might have an air leak. Watch for any jumps in the short or long trims while driving. Most important though is just look at fuel trims and drive the car for some time and look again and see if they are changing. I drove the cars I was working on as DD for 6 months to find the other issues. Exhaust valves with heavy deposits have the same symptoms as slow vanos because they are sort of the same issue. Both work on how much exhaust gas gets transferred to the intake side.
When Vanos gets slow often the car gets too much exhaust gas returned, the same for heavily crudded up exhaust valves as that crud lets less exhaust out of the chamber before the valve closes so the intake gets more exhaust than it wants. These things can be seen in the fuel trims, but you have to look close.
Also you put in a new pump but have you looked at the pressures? Have you run a couple of cans/bottles of a fuel system cleaner with PEA (detergent), polyether amines like techron or Guaranteed to Pass. Not sure what is available in you country but you need the PEA, the rest are just a joke. Again one of the basics to clean the injectors and upper head.
I did not do all these things on day one they were part of the 6 month driving of the car so I could see any changes to look for other things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thank you.
The thing is i just bought this car it has 271000 km on it,,1999 production date November/99,,in total we drove only 60 km in distance since purchasing it. It need to be driven more.
And car was not driven for almost 6 years .
That is why I have too many issue with it.
So I am bringing it to life again,,but it needs so many maintenance job.
I am close and will update soon.
I like the car it is very clean ,,but previous owner was not that kind of guy to do maintenance he just want to drive.

Thank you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,140 Posts
we drove only 60 km in distance since purchasing it
You need to drive it. The car has not had even enough miles to adjust adaptions for your new parts. The adaptions are still set for all those old parts and that could be the low down problem right there. Don't do anything more until you have min 500KMs driven 800 even better. By then the car will re-adapt and sort some of this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
995 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ok...will drive and update in the upcoming two weeks.

Thank you.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top