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    1. · Registered
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      I had no idea HF sold an engine brace, thought something like this was mucho dinero. Though not sure how safe I would feel for $80 but there are many decent reviews, even a few BMW owners.


      http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

      Perhaps if I knew I could get a brace for $80 I might of done my RB job myself... oh and if I had the time too...
       
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      Discussion Starter · #16 ·
      Usually if the analysis sees high levels of copper, it is an indication of con rod or crank bearings.
      Bingo.

      so what in the oil analysis showed the rod bearings are worn out?

      As for pulling the engine or dropping the subframe, drop the subframe, pulling the engine is more work and frankly both ways suck to do it.
      When an oil analysis sees higher than normal levels of copper or other metals that are usually used in rod bearings, that's when you know the rod bearings are starting to wear out. What I'll be determining tomorrow is if the rod bearings are just starting to wear out, or if they're actually completely worn out. That's why I plan to check the oil and listen to the engine from below.

      I'll most likely be going with the subframe dropping approach when doing the rod bearings. I read some DIYs for it, and it doesn't seem to be too bad of a job. Harbor Freight has an engine support bar, so that's how I'll support the engine when the subframe is out: 1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

      I'm going to drop the subframe and get to the rod bearings before I order any parts. If I see that the crankshaft looks fine and the rod bearings aren't too bad, then I'll order all the parts and finish the job when they arrive. This will also give me a chance to buy whatever else needs to be replaced, like suspension components and gaskets.
       
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      Bingo.



      When an oil analysis sees higher than normal levels of copper or other metals that are usually used in rod bearings, that's when you know the rod bearings are starting to wear out. What I'll be determining tomorrow is if the rod bearings are just starting to wear out, or if they're actually completely worn out. That's why I plan to check the oil and listen to the engine from below.

      I'll most likely be going with the subframe dropping approach when doing the rod bearings. I read some DIYs for it, and it doesn't seem to be too bad of a job. Harbor Freight has an engine support bar, so that's how I'll support the engine when the subframe is out: 1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar

      I'm going to drop the subframe and get to the rod bearings before I order any parts. If I see that the crankshaft looks fine and the rod bearings aren't too bad, then I'll order all the parts and finish the job when they arrive. This will also give me a chance to buy whatever else needs to be replaced, like suspension components and gaskets.
      I understand that, I guess worded it wrong, what was the actual numbers in the oil analysis that made him think it was the rod bearings.

      I personally do not put much faith in oil analysis', I know many on this form do but to me they are not very scientific in the method for sampling.

      as for subframe removal using the HF engine brace works fine, I left a friends engine supported on one for most of this past winter.
       
    1. · Registered
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      1,238 Posts
      Which engine supports did you get to support the motor from the top?
      http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
      Found a 20% off coupon good for June. Type 21468734 in coupon box for 12.00 off. Ordered twice so I got 2 discounts. One bar for the front attachment point and the second one for the back attach point. Got the first one and it's too hard to try and make one bar work for the whole motor. Hook points on the motor are too far a part. They're cheap so got another one.
       
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    1. · Registered
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      I just don't get how some owners want to drive like that. It's not a diesel. I have driven manuals for 20+ years and when I learned to drive I was taught never to let a gas/petrol engine lug like that. It has been true for all of my cars since especially this one. Anything lower than ~2300 => downshift with rev match and I believe my car is better because of it. It has 85k miles and it will get a cam timing job and new rod bearings by 100k whether it needs them or not. Hence my call for details on the engine brace...
      I am sure the OP uses a much nicer engine brace, but I have always used the HF engine brace on all my BMW's with no problems. The M5 is a bit more of a pain as the front lift point is lower than 6 cyl's, but nothing a chain won't fix.

      1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar
       
    1. · Registered
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      Even better, get the same thing for half price from Harbor Freight:
      1000 Lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar


      To the OP:
      The "DIY" title prefix should only be used when giving instructions, rather than asking for help.
      Nice find Clyde, it is the exact same thing from two different vendors. Wow what a difference in price!!! And they both have the same part number. Gotta love Harbor Freight.
       

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