The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com) - E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion

dinan exhaust note

jimdon1 — Thu, 17 May 2012 03:26:00 GMT

Hey guys-has anyone taken the resonators off with the Dinan exhaust and if you have-how did it sound? Did you experience any drone noise with it? Thanks, Jim

Dice issue

Ragbar — Thu, 17 May 2012 00:03:15 GMT

Looking for some help here after not having much luck with the search feature. I just picked up a 2000 m5 ( wish I had done this years ago) with a dice electronics iPod adapter. Problem is that the music will barely go above a whisper and is very distorted. I have already adjusted the aux volume and tweaked the iPod eq settings. So far no luck, any suggestions?

Confirmation of fan clutch going

JoeFromPA — Wed, 16 May 2012 23:27:48 GMT

Hi all,

I've noticed a few times in the past few weeks the sound of roaring air movement coming from the front end for a few moments. Would happen then I couldn't repeat it.

Today I drove about 250 miles - didn't notice it at all. I drive up to my house and hear it again. 84 degrees out, A/C on.

I sat there and revved the car a number of times in gear and in neutral. Heard it equally both times - steady roar from the front building and going away with engine RPMs. Sounds like a fan spinning way too fast :)

I'm guessing that the engine heat, etc. caused my fan clutch to lock up today. I'm hoping it dis-engages a bit for a few days as I'll need to put another 100 miles on the car before i can replace it.

Just looking for confirmation this account is consistent with a failing fan clutch so I can start getting the part and necessary wrench.

Joe

P.s. if Any west chester-ites or nearby m5 folks have the tools already and would be willing to do this 5-10 minute job with me, there's a 6-pack of your choice of beer in it. I'm slammed with work and life and the help and avoiding the need to procur a few more tools would be vastly welcome.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

RK stage 1 Dyno

Tyson1868 — Wed, 16 May 2012 20:23:16 GMT

Found a moment between new job and getting married to Dyno the car with the RK autowerks stage 1 and 50/50 meth/water. I am very happy with the results and the car is a pleasure to drive.

Thanks to all at RK and Sal at Evolve for the product and continued support! I hope not to bother Jamie and Raza any longer as they have been very helpful and provided some of the very best customer service I have experienced.

I did a total of 6 runs all SAE corrected at 1.01, the first 4 in 4th, the first one of which was only to 6900 RPM. The last 2 were in fifth and the first one of the 5th gear runs was a partial to see how it went. There are a couple glitches on the graphs, one 5th gear run shows the torque at 433 which is not correct and I show that with a cursor at 409 which is correct. The second glitch was a bit of moisture messing up the AFR graph. It was a blast and I am glad I went. All of the runs were run with meth on. I plan on going to a dyno dynamics soon and I will run it with and without. I also logged the AFRs and boost in the car with gauges and software. We looked at the boost gauge in the car as well as tee-ing into the BOV vacuum line. My datalogging is not logging boost correctly as it recorded 9.5 lbs in contrast to both gauges (one in the dash and the one on the BOV seeing 7 maybe 7.5. Best run in 5th at 474 rwhp. I can post the screen shots of the datalogging if there is interest.

2003 BMW M5 138K JB

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Obtaining Records from Dealer?

jB88 — Wed, 16 May 2012 19:15:35 GMT

I'm trying to obtain all records from the two dealers(BMW of Fremont and Mountain View BMW) the vehicle was taken to for service by the original owner. Both told me that the only way I could get the records would be to come to the dealership with the car so that they could verify ownership. Wondering if any members have experienced this and found a way around it. Thanks!

Failed Emissions!

jsbremer — Wed, 16 May 2012 18:31:43 GMT

I went to take my emissions inspected (Maryland) and I didn't know a service engine light means that you automatically fail. It says it was due to a P0420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) and I googled it and found this: P0420 Error Code: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

I just put my new SuperSprint High-Flow Cats on, but I kept the old O2 sensors on because Turner MotorSport only sent me 1 new one instead of 2.

Has anyone else had this problem, or something similar? I am hoping that I just need to put on new O2 sensors and not new cats.

If anyone has had either this problem or a similar one, please let me know..I'm freaking out!

12v socket not working. Fuse is fine.

Dave Spalding — Wed, 16 May 2012 16:52:58 GMT

Noticed that the 12v socket otherwise known as cigarette lighter isn't working. Even tried it with a test lamp. Any ideas?

What settings for Koni Yellows + Dinan Springs

olegd88 — Wed, 16 May 2012 16:12:03 GMT

Hey guys,

I am getting my suspension redone now. What settings should I use for Koni Yellows plus Dinan Springs? I cannot find the recommended ones or an installation manual from dinan.

Thanks in advance.

Wikipedia description of E39 M5

Scott the Pict — Wed, 16 May 2012 12:01:42 GMT

I've just noticed that the description of the performance has recently changed slightly.
It now mention 0-60mph "routinely clocked" at 4.2 seconds for the less restricted European version.
I like this but surely a bit ambitious?
Drivetrain wouldn't last for too many attempts either, I imagine!
What is less restricted about the European version?
I thought the main difference was two piece, lighter, brake discs?
I wonder what prompted them to rewrite this part?

Rod bearings! Am I paranoid!

swight — Wed, 16 May 2012 09:08:29 GMT

Hi, I have e39 M5 in lovely condition, full history, done 149,000 miles, runs great, no funny noises, knocks or bangs from the engine. I am getting paranoid about this rod bearing issue! Have i got a time bomb waiting to get me? I don't drive the car hard or over rev it. Does anyone know of many M5's going to big mileages without new rod bearing being fitted? Thanks

The old mirror problem

PeterN — Wed, 16 May 2012 06:53:57 GMT

I've got the bubble problem with my rearview mirror. Does anyone know if there is a replacement available at reasonable cost in Australia?

Thanks for your help...

Interior wrap

IMOLA_RED///M5 — Wed, 16 May 2012 05:34:01 GMT

Just wondering where can I buy interior wrap from. My wood trim is really not what I would consider a "classy" piece for this car. Just wondering where I can buy the vinyl. Looking for brushed titanium. Thanks

OnBoard Module (BMBT) 16 EEPROM Checksum Error

stemo76 — Wed, 16 May 2012 04:40:10 GMT

Been digging around and can't seen to find anyting on this error. I have Autoenginuity and pulled this code but not sure if I can or need to do anything about it. Seems to be related to the in dash display/computer/radio/NAV system but I am not sure. I have attempted to clear it with the AE tool but that fails. Anybody have any information on this? Just got the car of my dreams a couple weeks ago so going through it with a fine tooth comb so I know what has been neglected and what I need to service.

Thanks.

BBS LM Reps

RevS13 — Wed, 16 May 2012 03:16:46 GMT

The time has come to buy new wheels and I think I have my mind set on LM Reps.

Who makes the best set for a decent price? I'm sure I'm going to get a lot of flack for posting this thread.... Sorry

Thinking of getting rid of Britalmans...

MINIz guy — Wed, 16 May 2012 00:34:29 GMT

I have a Britalman exhaust setup with their x-pipe on my M5 and am thinking of switching back to the stock exhaust. I have to daily the M5 and would much rather have another M5 owner enjoy the exhaust more than I can. I also feel that there is too much money tied up in this exhaust setup and I could use the money to recoup the purchase price of my M5.

http://youtu.be/7kBRRuWGtn0?hd=1

How much do you guys think I could sell this setup for? Also, is it difficult to ship an exhaust?

Trunk Tool KIt

glen_lloyd — Wed, 16 May 2012 00:32:31 GMT

Anyone got a pic of a complete set? Mine is empty and I would like to know what i am looking for.

Rear Suspension Costs

Kuroitsubame — Wed, 16 May 2012 00:18:47 GMT

Hi, this is my first post on this forum. So I got into a little accident and I hit my rear right wheel on a curb and the mechanic said I cracked the subframe and need to replace the entire suspension on that wheel (plus the rim). I was wondering what costs would go into that because I am trying to not use any insurance money if I can since curbs seem to be always "at fault" accidents. How hard would it be to DIY this? Also how would a used subframe from another M5 work out? Any help is great. Also if you could point me to any other threads that would be wonderful (I already looked but google didn't pull up anything I wanted).

Blackstone Labs Oil Report Mobil 1 15W50

skeelo34 — Tue, 15 May 2012 23:38:38 GMT

About 15 months since last oil change and est. of 4500 miles (a little overdue) I purchased the car from a former forum member and it's my first oil change since then. I don't abuse the car but I do red line it often in 1st and 2nd with smooth shifts in between (I don't drop the clutch or do burnouts - tires are too expensive). Mostly I just love the sound of the muffler delete above 4k. Have had to add maybe half a quart to a quart of oil in the past year. Any comments outside of those stated are appreciated. I replaced the oil with TWS this time. I realize there are other oil threads, but I mainly saw ones for 10w60 or 5w30 and figured since this may be a little less common, I would post it in it's own thread.

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Reverse Modding an M5??

dmalhi1 — Tue, 15 May 2012 22:11:05 GMT

Not sure if this was ever posted before but some guy actually reverse modded a perfectly good E39 M5 to look exactly like a 520i.... :dunno::confused3:crying:

BMW M5 build - StanceWorks

Need advise! Dealer messed up the Beast.

TebbsM5 — Tue, 15 May 2012 19:14:14 GMT

This car has been a curse lately. I just got it back a few days ago after a Firestone place broke my rear diff. Upon picking it up at the BMW Dealer I took her home for a bath and the wife and I noticed that my pass side Magnaflow single can tip was smashed in at the top. It's not a full exhaust, just the mufflers welded on. I purchased the car like that. I called the GM of the dealer and he was very nice as I told him that my car was damaged. So, I went today to talk with him and he asked what I thought was fair? Honestly, I'm not sure? He suggested $500.00 worth of free service. What I want to say is my 600.00 that I spent in labor for getting the rear diff replaced plus a new exhaust but I also don't want to sack anybody. All I have ever wanted was my car to be returned to me in the same manner with which it was given. Any input would be appreciated.

Pioneer SPH-DA01 - HAS ANYONE TRYED THIS? -

sayanthan — Tue, 15 May 2012 18:45:05 GMT

hi
i was wondering if anyone has tried this? - it gives direct access to all the apps on your iphone as well as the usual-music etc. and has bluetooth as well - it's priced at a shade under 300 pounds which looks a steal given that comparative double DIN products with similar functionality tend to be in excess of 700 pounds.
i've got tom tom sat nav on my i phone so this could be a great way of updating my car's head unit.

European In-Car Head Unit 2011-2012 - Pioneer SPH-DA01 | EISA - The European Imaging and Sound Association

PIONEER SPH-DA01 Car screen double din touch monitor App Radio iPhone 4 4S | eBay

The navigation system "disappeared"

HD91 — Tue, 15 May 2012 17:56:45 GMT

Good afternoon (evening to some) gentlemen,

I posted the E39 M5 production thread a few weeks back which was quite helpful for some owners. Now it's me who need your help with a technical question!

The factory satellite navigation on our 2001 MY (9:16) has completely stopped working. Well, it's not even possible to choose navigation on the screen anymore. It's completely gone! The screen itself is fine, the OBC and the rest works as it should. I did not get any proper explanation from the local BMW garage so thought I would try asking here. I realize something is broken but what could it be? I have very limited experience on SatNavs so any suggestion would be appreciated. Could photograph the screen for you if necessary.

BimmerFest 2012 - May 19

mamsterla — Tue, 15 May 2012 17:01:48 GMT

I posted in the West Coast Region, but man those get slim readership. I am planning to be at BimmerFest on May 19th with the Blue Beast. I would love to do the following with fellow board members:

Caravan in and park near each other
Grab dinner or a beer or coffee after the show
Meet people from the board

I am coming from the West Side of LA (Westwood area). I would be willing to meet anywhere within reason to drive in together. I would like to be early to get a good parking spot. I am planning for a long day there, so hat, sunscreen, some snacks.

Interested parties, please PM me or email mamster at wnx dot com if you do not yet have PM. The show goes from 9am to 3pm at the Rose Bowl in Pasadena.

After the show, for a drink, I recommend Lucky Baldwin's in Old Town - or we can head out a little bit to avoid crowds.

DIY: E39 satellite radio hookups

beatsjunky — Tue, 15 May 2012 15:15:31 GMT

Hello to everyone. Hope all having a good day.

I have a question RE; satellite radio hookups. I have 03/2000 E39 M5 with MKII Navi Drive and 16:9 Screen. (The screen is not from my M5. I had 4:3 and changed to 16:9 that was removed from 2003 E39).

I have been meaning to hook up Satellite Radio and I found "BMW ZGW-01 MID control unit LEAR SATNAV CD RADIO 9247398 NAVIGATION/ MODULE / ZGW-01MID * 9247398 / 104621 * 535218 803 0375529 01"

Does anyone knows if this is what I need?

Thanks.

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Moderation on E39 M5 forum?

kees — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:39:19 GMT

What is your opinion on the level of moderation on E39 M5 forum?

Newbie - Looking to Buy

rogeyboy — Tue, 15 May 2012 11:58:47 GMT

Hi guys,
Ive only just signed up on here, as a big m5 fan it seems to be the forum to join.

I am looking to buy an E39 M5 in the next few months, but don't really know what im letting myself in for, or even if i will like them once driven afew etc.

I'd like to know if theres anyone local, in Essex. Who has an M5 and would be willing to show me their car and introduce me to the M5 etc.

Thanks

Roger

Wibble

100%Cocoa — Tue, 15 May 2012 11:48:27 GMT

I had a slow puncture recently and was on my way to have it repaired. I had just passed through a width restrictor (on Albert Bridge) and I gave the right pedal a little prod, as always after slowing for these things. Because the rear tyre was a little soft, the car slewed sideways and **BANG** on the kerb....

So I've had the wheel repaired and balanced and all seems fine, all the way to over 160mph...... apart from a very irritating wobble at around 50mph. It comes through the steering wheel, but somehow seems to be coming through the seat as well, and feels slightly more violent than a traditional wheel imbalance. I've had the wheels rebalanced twice just to be sure, but to no avail.

I used to have a wobble at this speed on a few occasions, such as when it was very cold, or under certain light braking, but it would always go away. I put this down to worn thrust arm bushes.

I'm wondering if this heavy clonk to my RHS front wheel has damaged the thrust arm or other component of the suspension. I'm assuming it's a bush issue, rather than bent metal, due to the fact it tracks pefectly straight, is fully aligned and that it vibrates. Maybe this was the final nail in the coffin for my bushes?

I'd love to hear your thoughts, and also, what the cheapest place to buy new bushes is!

Cheers all.

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Removing centre armrest handle

s1nn0n — Tue, 15 May 2012 10:48:16 GMT

PART 10 - Centre Armrest Handle Link

I have purchased a replacement centre console armrest handle, as shown in link above, part 10, as mine has some slight imperfections on it. Do you know how to remove the old one? By the looks of the new handle it doesnt appear to be screwed on, just clipped, although I dont want to go and break something by forcing it off!

just picked up an m5, noticed a few things. advice if you can

dj2xrated — Tue, 15 May 2012 07:38:13 GMT

like title says, i just picked up a m5 and i noticed a few things.

so i have a confirmed Stage 4 software from DINAN
also DINAN rear sway bay i believe (pic is below)
the Intake system is DINAN plus a carbon fiber manifold, but not sure who made it.
Will be doing the Oil change soon, i was under the car and noticed that my oil drain screw seems to have a really slow leak.

The diff appears to have a slow leak also. not sure yet though. after i get the underneath of the car degreased and steam cleaned i will be able to better determine foreign liquids.

The headers are still a mystery to me, though i have seen some similar ones. but none of them are connected at the engine exhaust port, (pic is below, maybe someone more informed can hook me up with a quick best guess). i will becomes very informed very soon the search button is my friend, i make continue to edit and redo my one thread as to not create tons of threads about my car one car.e

my normal driving temp is 210 (i don't drive hard, i am usually in 6th gear the majority of the time to save gas on highway. (hopefully oil change will affect this, but the bmw tech said it was normal temperature, pic is below of what im talking about.)

the mods on car i have been told are pictured below. car is 2003

Got 32 pages of Service History from BMW of Austin. The previous owner was very detailed. if he ever find my thread i would like to thank him for taking such well care of the car, and doing such tasteful mods

2nd batch of pictures

SO my "crazy" noise was nothing more than the fan in front of the radiator, it and the engine fan both work, i let engine sit head first in my garage running with A/C on max to see if the temperature would rise above the 210 mark everything was A.O.K. anyway let me know what you think.

M5 Beast Trailer

muzik3k — Tue, 15 May 2012 04:22:25 GMT

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Happen to see this movie trailer online and thought I'd share with the board. Really digging the csl style trunk spoiler and can't seem to find one to buy anywhere..any suggestions? All links found on with the search take me to dead links

I FINALLY have IT!!!! (Hamann content! New mods!)

Hdhntr23 — Tue, 15 May 2012 01:54:13 GMT

OK,

So I finally have some quality pictures of the diffuser installed. (Thanks btmlinedan! www.dkfxphotography.com)

A couple of things before I post the pictures:
1) The piece is outstanding and the weave and overlay are gorgeous. I feel it really “completes” my car’s look. A big “Thank You" to Ary at DTMFiberwerkz ( E39 M5 Hm Style Rear Bumper Lower Diffuser - E39m5hmrear - - Rear Bumper - Exterior Styling - E39 ) for making this piece and bringing it to market. I have wanted this piece for years and now it’s finally on my car
.
2) The spacers that are on the car are 2” long in the middle and 1.5” on the outside. The outer diameter (OD) of the inside and outside spacers are different. Finding 2” long spacers with a reasonable OD is next to impossible so I have since switched to 1.5”long on the inside and 1” long on the outside spacers that and they are significantly less noticeable if not pretty much disappeared.

3) I used double sided tape where the bottom of the bumper touches the diffuser for strength as well as a bolt on each corner near the wheel well. (you cant seem them at all) So total of 6 bolts 4 of which you can see. I wanted to keep the OEM hole the same size for the OEM diffuser so I used threaded rod for the 2 middle bolts. I threaded a nut onto it and used “red” lock tight on it so it would make a bolt. I then tightened down the other nut and cut the rest of the threaded rod to size.

The fit and finish of the piece is truly high quality and at this point as far as I know its awesome to know that I have the only piece like this in the world!

Now for my one suggestion, I wish DTMFiberwerkz would’ve drilled some pilot holes to guide in the installation process. Trying to get the holes “just right” was a pain for a DIY’r. For a body shop Im sure it would’ve been fairly easy. Other than that, I am so impressed with it and like I said I feel it’s the piece that truly brings the whole theme of my car together.

I will eventually replace my front ACS style splitters with Hamann ones to match the rear piece but in the meantime everything is perfect.

Couple more things before anyone asks, the drive to the photo location was a long one and I must missed the few pebbles that were resting on the diffuser for the pictures. In case anyone can see my hood in these shots, I had a piece of drywall fly up and hit my front splitter and hood and I haven’t had time to get them fixed/replaced yet.

Thanks for looking and again thanks to btmlinedan for the pictures and DTMFiberwerkz for making the piece!

Now for some mods I have done in addition to the lower diffuser.

I painted the inside of my wheels black to hide the brake dust that collects on the bare metal. It just looked ugly and now, you cant tell. I will (this winter) paint that inner lip, where the bolts are, since I couldnt get to them this go round. I have to take the face off of the wheel and paint it that way.

Next, I painted my brake calipers black and the ///M with the proper OEM colors with Lunker325's suggestions of nail polish! Here are some pix of the calipers and I also upgraded to SSteel brake lines.

Updated Pictures and Videos of the Brecus Motorsport M5

jrhaile — Mon, 14 May 2012 22:44:54 GMT

Original build thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...-race-car.html

It was the longest winter of my life. I wore out two XBox steering wheels playing Forza in fact (level 130 now lol). Advanced Auto Fabrication painted my interior, added lexan windows (drag was killing me on the straights), added a custom brake cooling package courtesy of Hard Motorsport, full fire suppression system with 4 nozzles, rebuilt my exhaust system by adding a couple of mufflers and an XPipe, and a whole lot more. Garth Vader Motorsports donated a set of VMR 18x9.5" wheels and a new set of NT01 275/35/18s. Also running a 545i shifter now as my old Rogue bit the dust last year.

Got the car on the track this past weekend and made some huge handling and braking improvements. The car is very planted and manageable through corners and the braking has improved dramatically as a result of the suspension tuning. I actually feel like I can drive the tires off the Track Beast now and my confidence in the car was growing each lap.

Onboard Footage from a PTP track day at Spokane County Raceway.

Hard Motorsport #362 M5 Suspension Tuning - YouTube

Loaded up for the track

New wheels and tires

Quick look at the new brake cooling backing plates. This is a MUST for anyone with a BBK and drives their Beast hard.

porsche cayenne technical specs

jonsmiff — Mon, 14 May 2012 22:40:32 GMT

evening/morning gents, i have a cayenne turbo s and need to know what compression it should be kicking out, cant find the info and was wondering if anyone has any links/info

thanks:D

CNS Shill Account Warning Thread Quietly Disappears??

JCM55555 — Mon, 14 May 2012 21:13:11 GMT

Am I the only one that finds this as suspicious as CNS themselves?

I'm just curious why this is no longer relevant. If the discussion was getting out of hand, locking the thread would have made sense - but I think it's strange that the thread, along with a handful of other posts, have been quietly censored.

Mods? What's going on here?

Pics of Vancouver Meets (Best viewed on Full HD monitor)

victorm5 — Mon, 14 May 2012 21:04:11 GMT

Thanks Malda and sexybimmer (and others) for coming out for the meets and photoshoot. We'll be doing another soon...:haha:

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DIY: Cd autochanger loom

chrisjx — Mon, 14 May 2012 20:59:52 GMT

Hi guys,

Bit of help for a newbie required please............

I've just taken the plunge and moved up from my E39 535i to an Imola e39 M5 :grinyes: and loving it, however.................
It has full TV, Phone and SAT NAV as expected, but the boot / trunk mounted CD Autochanger is missing and it looks like the wiring has been "bridged" so that everything else works? (I'm not realy sure, but there are a lot of plugs etc.). I'm looking to refit an autochanger and have found the small CD plug loom that runs to the front of the car, but can't see the larger of the two looms anywhere:crying:
Anyone got any ideas what colour wires it is or where it runs to?

Rattle when stabbing throttle from low rpm

nixter — Mon, 14 May 2012 19:40:57 GMT

My 2nd noise related post today lol. First off, I have a muffler delete which I'm mentioning because perhaps this is amplifying an otherwise normal noise. When I'm cruising around in the city at low rpm and then suddenly stab the throttle sometime I hear what sounds like a rattle, but I think it's in tune with the burble/growl from the muffler which leads me to believe it's engine related rather than gearbox related. What does the vanos rattle sound like? I have a 2003 so I doubt it's that. I'm about to go for a drive so I'll try to recreate and be more descriptive with my info.

Chirping noise at idle

nixter — Mon, 14 May 2012 19:32:28 GMT

So at idle I can hear this slight chirping noise if I'm next to a wall or something that reflects sound. I got out and popped the hood and it's coming from somewhere behind the driver's side headlamp area. It sounds exactly like crickets at night. If I hold the throttle at even 100rpm above idle it goes away. I had the serpentine belt replace not long ago so it's not that.

Quick Leatherique Before and After

RideM5 — Mon, 14 May 2012 17:07:20 GMT

So I finally got around to treating my leather with Leatherique's rejuvenator/prestine clean system this past weekend. Using an old spray bottle, I spread the rejuvenator by hand, and let it sit for about 4 hours in 80+ temps. Applied the cleaner the same way(spray+hand) then wet cloth + dry buff as described in the directions. Overall I am very impressed with the results, and the application was not as bad as I thought it would be. Here are the before and after pics of the driver seat. The lighting changed, but you get the idea.

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05 X5 4.4i battery and alternator same as M5?

sshu930 — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:13:38 GMT

I regretfully have to sell my 2005 X5 4.4i and I just put in a new battery, alternator, coolant hoses, water pump, thermostat and radiator in it. Are any of these parts the same as the M5? I'm hoping at least the battery can be swapped.

GOOD San Francisco Bay Area Custom Exhaust Shop?

Tortuga — Mon, 14 May 2012 16:02:05 GMT

After years of suffering with leaky Supersprint headers, and several visits to SoCal (Lived down there for 3 years) shops who couldn't seem to fix the leaks because the work was unusual or hard, (all the ones you would suggest BTW)...I need somebody to get in there take it ALL off and start from scratch, reinstalling it right in the first place, (bought used from RMS-yes that RMS who probably F'd up the install from the get go)...I really dont care what it cost (well a bit) but just want it done right once and for all...

Would prefer someone who is familiar with the system...

Thanks

2000 Nav Unit Repair

edb — Mon, 14 May 2012 13:37:56 GMT

Looking for some feed-back on Nav unit repair. My Nav unit works fine from a cold start - first boot. When I stop the car and then restart I only get a yellow line at the bottom of the screen with time and date and the radio shuts off after about 2 minutes. I'm told this is caused by a defectiive video driver board in the Nav unit. I've contacted Hi-Tech Electronic Services in Van Nuys and they seem to be a legit business (hitechserv.com) with lots of info on BMW Nav and Radio systems. They are quoting $200 to $500 for the repair.
Any comments - Suggestions - feed-back would be appreciated.
Thanks

My DINAN S2 Dyno'd....Low Numbers?

bmwMcrzy — Mon, 14 May 2012 00:56:51 GMT

Hey guys I decided to get my BEAST dyno'd yesterday with only 50,050 miles on it. I was disappointed but not upset.
My best pull was #2 with 378whp on a dynojet. I was expecting between 390 to 400. The car has always pulled hard since I picked it up.
All pulls were done in 4th and we didn't pull any fuses. A few weeks ago I did get 140 on the MAF test.

Months ago I dug up threads from back in 2003-2005 about people talking about DINAN claiming 481 hp but most saw 450-460 hp.
I do remember wilsodh saying another Chicago member (mishkinm5) got 395 whp a few years ago in Chicago with his S2.

So I'm asking for everyone's advice on what I should look at or replace. (I have no SES light)
It would be great if all other S2s would mention what they have put down and which dyno along with temp & humdity.

*cough* E55AMG2 *cough* madyspop *cough* gsfent *cough* TQ2K *cough* mikeoski *cough*

Thanks for looking!

B&G lowering spring install direction.

Lancefitzgiben — Mon, 14 May 2012 00:15:09 GMT

I bought some of these B&G lowering springs second hand, and I'm wondering if the springs have a specific orientation. The rear springs have a very obvious change in the coarseness of the wind. There are letters stamped on the springs, but not in a consistent orientation.

Anyone have install instructions that came with their springs?

Thanks!

supersprint headers

K6ASF — Sun, 13 May 2012 21:22:02 GMT

im looking at purchasing sum supersprint headers
i have been doing sum reading up and supersprint seems to have mixed reviws
could the people that are running these headers specifically give me sum feedback about the product
also my car was remapped a while ago, will this need to be redone to accomadate the new headers
i am running stock cats
thanks in advance

Video Spotting with GP Hero 2 in 1080p - LMB on the A3

M5 London — Sun, 13 May 2012 18:23:34 GMT

So I thought I saw a shiny LMB in the distance, and yep it sure was :

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Pardon the cheeky undertake please, but it was for the board ! ;)

He didn't seem too keen on having a chat :dunno:, so I just drove off :M5launch:

Best method for changing thermostat?

swight — Sun, 13 May 2012 15:15:17 GMT

I have just changed my thermostat without removing the plenum, and it is leaking water everywhere, I suspect the o-rings split or not seated properly. So will have to do it again. I think the best way is to remove the plenum and inlet manifolds to make sure everything is done properly. Anybody done it this how and how much stuff do I need to remove to get to the top of the engine? Thanks

Cracking UK oil deal

ortontom — Sun, 13 May 2012 13:38:48 GMT

With europarts ends tonight, code lastchance30

�53 quid delivered 8 litres of the stuff...

Front sub-frame bent @ sway bar link

Terabass — Sun, 13 May 2012 06:27:56 GMT

Noiced that my subframe appears to bent at the sway-bar links. Looks like it gave in for some reason.

It its quite clearly rubbing against the thrust-arm bushing. This is on both sides.
I want to check in with you guys on recommendations how to tackle this new problem. How can this be prevented in the future?

Cleanup after drifting @ el mirage 'salt flats' (pics)

Terabass — Sun, 13 May 2012 06:22:33 GMT

Ahoj guys,

So i had some last weekend on El Mirage dry lake.
Click on pic to go to dry lake original pics

Anyway here's how your car looks a week later:

The black square on the psuedo carbon fiber BMW M Power sign is where I brushed it off. hahah

I had already hosed down the top of the engine at this point and the wet spots are water, not oil :D

Progress: All under carriage panels removed, and the initial layer of dirt removed.

Didn't get even the front done today. Will continue tomorrow.
Its all clay actually, dunno about salt but plenty of clay. When you hose it off you can smell it.

Updates coming.

Project Boost my ///M5, RK Autowerks Supercharger Install and Review

VitaliyM5 — Sun, 13 May 2012 05:53:43 GMT

Hey guys. So the project has finally began. I have a little bit less then a month to get this complete before Timmayfest 2012! I don't have much experience at all with things like this so I had some help. Big thanks goes to Tim, technician117 for driving out from Buffalo and lending me a hand. Also thanks to Raza who was on the phone with me with a couple hickups I ran into here and there. I will be posting a few pictures here and there to show the progress of the install. The kit looks great. All the pieces are very high quality and just plain awesome. All I can say is I cant wait to butten her up and start breaking in that supercharger!

Well here go some pictures! Enjoy :)

Garage floor with all my parts!

Under the plenum cover I found no oil sitting at all. All looks great...

That's all I have for now. A lot of work was done today. The injectors replaced, crank pully installed, bumper removed and DINAN CAI pulled out, power steering reservoir relocated (which really wasn't as bad as it sounds). Finished off by totally modifying the old oil filter bracket and installing the supercharger bracket. All great so far. I was going to go step by step that was in the write up but somehow ended up jumping around. For not being very experienced honestly I would say the write up is really good and shows most of everything you need to know.

Well that's all for now, happy reading folks :)

E39 M5 Brake problem - yes i know again!

ortontom — Sun, 13 May 2012 05:41:28 GMT

Yes I know we have been here and been there, but here goes.

Im starting to loose my rag with the car and dont want to be chasing an issue with money. I will give you a timeline with issues and any help would help greatly, this is my second M5 and now into the 4th year of owning such a car...

2001 M5 64k miles

Sept - Car bought last year, brake judder on fronts. Replaced front discs (OEM) and pads, and lower swing arms (front). Also replace rear pads

Several months pass - still a problem, replace calipers (front)

Still juddering under braking - have alsorts of people look at it, replaced discs with second hand BMW original discs - just because we didnt know if that was the problem. OEM discs refunded due to faulty part

Problem solved - for about 2k miles.

Now the rears judder, and the fronts have started to. Only once warm.....(under braking)

Current thinking -

1 - maybe the rear calipers are sticking
2 - These OEM pads are ruining the discs

Any thoughts or experience with this......and before anyone asks - Bushes and rubbers have been looked at by Simpson Motorsport and Munich Legends...and they are all good.

Failed emmisions testing today, could it be my Evolve tune?

madyspop — Sun, 13 May 2012 01:10:05 GMT

Not sure if my new software is to blame or not? They couldn't get their software to recognize my DME, they tried three times to no avail. I'm not sure what could be causing the problem, any one have suggestions?

Beru Air Intake Temp Sensor Harness part number?

boostaddict — Sat, 12 May 2012 21:45:23 GMT

The plug that connects to my Beru IAT sensor #13 62 1 725 323 broke and I cannot locate this part online anywhere. Does anyone know where I can find this two wire plug? Part number?

Below is a picture of the IAT sensor

Caramel Seat Bolster and Armrest Re-Dye

cab — Sat, 12 May 2012 21:12:40 GMT

ALl,

So this is part 2 of my interior refresh / dyeing. Part one was my first crack at dying - did the passenger door panel and armrest (and some rear seat "scratches". It can be found here:

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...el-re-dye.html

For part 2 I tackled the passenger seat and console armrest. Only had limited time and needed the car today so driver's seat will be next weekend (or thereabouts). The process was much the same as the door panel with the following additions:

1. Sanded bolster to try and reduce the obvious cracks - used 600/1000/1500/2000 grits. If I were to do it again, I would have tackled the cracks even more aggressively, BUT it is a compromise because if you go too aggressive you can remove all semblance of leather texture.

2. Still used the airbrush, but put an extra smear coat of dye on first with my finger to get a bit better coverage. Still took a lot of coats.

3. I touched up several wear marks on the base of the seat too, but they were hard to capture on camera so I did not include before/after shots there.

4. I should have filtered the dye (as the instructions state since I'm pretty sure I was getting some trash in there...or it could have just been debris in the air)

5. My passenger seat really wasn't bad, but since I had the dye, I figured I might as well use it before I tackle the last two big items - the driver's door panel and seat. Note the driver's seat had a tear in the leather bolster so I had the leather replaced last week. No one can get an exact match for caramel so it is just in the same color "family" and will be dyed by me to match.

Pics:

Before:

During (sanded bolster):

After:

Up next...the driver's seat (note new leather on bolster):

It is not perfect, but it is better than before and I think that's the mindset you need to go into this with. If you expect perfection or something that looks/feels 100% factory you will likely be disappointed. The hole in my driver's seat bolster leather was what ultimately forced me down this path. I know I could not get matching leather so that meant a re-dye. Ultimately, the average person would probably never even notice.

Later

Pics of my Chiaretto Red M5 lowered on BC coils

m5rosemont83 — Sat, 12 May 2012 20:12:51 GMT

Thought I would share some pics of my car!
It's been lowered on BC racing BR coils and they're awesome.. This is the first time I'm uploading pics of my beast clean lol
I washed, clayed, and waxed my beast to make her shiny for you guys..
Shitty cell phone pics will have to do for now!

good candidate for s62 swap

m5x5 — Sat, 12 May 2012 19:56:26 GMT

found this 540it wagon on ebay seems like a very good candidate for m5 conversion since most of the body work is done just drop in motor
BMW : 5-Series 540 IT BMW : 5-Series 540 IT | eBay

Looking for individual solenoids

Minion — Sat, 12 May 2012 19:11:52 GMT

Im looking to buy two individual solenoids for my VANOS, wondering if anyone has some maybe off a fried board or knows where i can pick some up. Id rather not pay the $400 per sol at Dr.Vanos. Let me know, thanks.

Noise coming from both sides front of car

s1nn0n — Sat, 12 May 2012 17:17:13 GMT

Hello,
I have a noise coming from both side of the front of the car, the noise isnt there all the time, it seems that its only there when the car gets hot, and most evident at lower speeds, its like a knocking noise and you can feel it through the car, braking seems to set it off. I have checked the brakes, and there isnt any movement in the wheels, ruling out bushes? When I push down on both sides of the car at the front, you can hear what sounds like the springs making a noise. I can upload a video of this, if needs be.

Thanks.

Simon.

CSL style lip

Jfreak — Sat, 12 May 2012 15:52:03 GMT

Hey guys, saw this over on bf.c and really kinda like it. What do you guys think?

Sorry for the link to another forum, they don't have it listed yet and these are the only pics of it.

::E39 M5 CSL Style One Piece Front Lip:: DTMFiberWerkz!!! - Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

285/30/18 - in Front with 5mm Spacers

DesiOC — Sat, 12 May 2012 06:52:37 GMT

Guys,

As the title says, will this fit my car with a stock suspension and factory rears up front.

M5 E39 Gearbox/Transmission Faulting developing

KiwiM5 — Sat, 12 May 2012 06:28:32 GMT

Hi guys, I just finished a 1,300 km cruise (10.5l/100km avg. fuel consumption) with all going well until not far from home, I noticed 6th & occasionally 4th would not slot cleanly & required a little more effort to engage otherwise it would pop out of gear. At home, I found that reverse would not engage at all without being manually held in place.

Any thoughts on what fault is developing, the fix & the approx. costs?

Edge of roof - NEED PART# for these plastic clips...

Kevin The Clean 1 — Sat, 12 May 2012 06:23:43 GMT

These small plastic pieces are white (sometimes black too) & there are 8 of them on each side of the top roof... ?

Do any of you know the official part # for these? THANK YOU in advance...

:cool_shades:

Recommended Tire Installer in Buffalo/NY?

OsinO — Sat, 12 May 2012 03:10:43 GMT

Hello,

Can anyone in the Buffalo/NY area recommend a tire installer/balancer in the NY/Buffalo area (preferrably with a Road Force Balancer)? I have a track session coming June 2nd and am in a bit of a time crunch as I will be ordering tires online and coming across the border at for install (much cheaper). I know that tirerack has the installer recommendation tool based on area code but personal experience from users on here is always preferred!

Thanks

Dave

Anyone satisfied with only a resonator delete?

Jbf65 — Sat, 12 May 2012 02:54:10 GMT

I have been through numerous threads and haven't read if anyone is satisfied with just a resonator delete. I have been kicking around the muffler delete but think it would be too much for me. For all of you with muffler deletes I don't need your convincing, I simply want the opinions of you who have just the resonator delete or have heard it in person . I am after a little more bark than the stock exhaust note and not quite sure how to get it on a small budget. Thanks!!!!

peake code 81

firefister — Sat, 12 May 2012 02:33:31 GMT

low fuel catalyst protection, what the heck to do with this... I had codes last year after falling into limp mode, 81 was one of them including some others. Took the car to the fellow were I have been before for simple oil changes as I have never had any issues since I've owned her, I wasn't completely pleased has he went ahead and changed the plugs and two coils, car does not run better... He mentions to me that he notices that the car runs extremely rough when cold start and that it should not be this way. I being naive thought that waiting a few minutes to start rolling was more than likely normal due to the complex mechanics of our engines.
So with this said, the engine still needs two to three minutes at cold start and the car has fallen into limp mode for the first time since taking her out of winter storage. The only code showing is 81 and I believe that is low fuel catalyst protection. Obviously I am asking for any kind of help and some suggestions on were to go from here.
As usual regards to all and thanks to those ready to lend an helping hand,
Pat

Thrust arm/bushing diameter?

bimmerule — Sat, 12 May 2012 02:13:54 GMT

Does anyone know the diameter of the thrust arm bushing as well as diameter of the thrust arm itself? I'm looking to fabricate a bushing press tool and replace with X5 bushes. My thrust arms are relatively new, unfortunately the bushes were torqued incorrectly by an indie. cherrsagai

Diameter of #6 an #5 below.

RealOEM.com * BMW E39 M5 FRONT AXLE SUPPORT/WISHBONE

Still part of the low mileage club?

bmwMcrzy — Sat, 12 May 2012 00:47:57 GMT

I picked up my BEAST in July with 42,900 miles. I had to drive 875 miles to get it to its new home.
6,000 miles when bye so quick! This isn't even my daily driver! It was in storage for 10 weeks during the winter.

Looking forward to the next big marker... 100,000 miles cherrsagai

rao's Timmayfest Charity 2.0 - Corner Weighing!

rao — Sat, 12 May 2012 00:45:53 GMT

This will be a lot easier than changing someone's rod bearings :)

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/usa...immayfest.html

Armrest changed and mysterious parts found

Quinten — Fri, 11 May 2012 22:06:48 GMT

I upgraded the 1980's nokia phone armrest today to a 'normal' armrest with storage cubby and when I removed the old parts, I came across two parts which I can not identify nor do I know where they have come from. The only thing I can think of is that they are parts from the rear-cupholder which I replaced a while ago for a (slightly more useful) storage cubby.

Showed a micro SD card for sizing reference.

Oh, in case you're wondering how the new armrest is looking ;)

Will these rims fit on my e39 m5?

Quy — Fri, 11 May 2012 20:53:52 GMT

I have a 2002 M5. Been searching up in the forums on if these rims will fit, but I couldn't find an answer. Maybe one of the rims guru can give me a hand:

FRONT:
19x8.5
offset +35
bore:72.6

REAR:
19x10.5
offset +40
bore:72.6

Would I need any spacers? and if these rims do fit, any recommendations on tire sizing? My suspension is stock.

Thanks in advance.

How many years do auto supplies make parts for a car? case in point, E39 M5.

bimmerule — Fri, 11 May 2012 17:15:54 GMT

:wroom:

WTB: A "Codes" section for this forum

abboushi — Fri, 11 May 2012 17:10:35 GMT

Is it possible the mods can make a sub category just for CODES! Every other post is about codes, while your there slap an Oil Thread too! Pretty please!

Little picture taking time for when I'm late for work

GGodwin — Fri, 11 May 2012 16:36:15 GMT

Codes... What do you guys think

GGodwin — Fri, 11 May 2012 16:28:58 GMT

These come on. Every once in a while how serious ?

Still can't figure out my brake light problem

GGodwin — Fri, 11 May 2012 16:18:05 GMT

Does anyone know which wire coming through the trunk deck controls the drivers brake light? I changed the bulb and nothing so I pulled out the wires and fixed a ground wire that was frayed, everything else looked to be in good condition but still no brake light

60 year old lady and her 11 sec C63! Holy Grandma!!

hillco148 — Fri, 11 May 2012 15:45:30 GMT

I don't know where to put this on the forum.

Don't flame me!

Anyway, She will smoke us!!!!

60 year old lady and her 11 second AMG Benz @ TX2K12 - YouTube

Lol...

DME Fault Codes today

Clayton Usher — Fri, 11 May 2012 15:27:51 GMT

Guys,
From the error messages that are attached it shows 2 Inlet CPS errors, is it possible that this is also causing the 184 EVANOS Regulation code ? Could someone please explain the 184 regulation code ? is it linked to the 2 inlet CPS codes ? And what is the relevance of the comments that appear at the bottom of the screen shots?

Since changing the T stat & the Vanos O rings i no longer have the SAP code anymore.

Many Thanks for your support.
Clayton

Attached Thumbnails

Attached Images

PPI Question: Computer scan recommended?

Pilot4hire — Fri, 11 May 2012 15:20:10 GMT

Hi all, I have been lurking the past couple of weeks and this is the first question I have that didn't come up in a search.

I'm in the process of purchasing a 2002 M5 from a private seller. The car is currently in a Mercedes shop for the MD safety inspection and PPI. I talked to the SA for the shop and he told me that since they are a Merc shop, they do not have any of the scanners that are required to check the computers. I'm assuming this extends beyond pulling ODB codes.

My question is: Is that necessary and what information would I be missing out on if I stick to a purely mechanical PPI?

Some background. This is the exact car and owner that I was looking for. The owner spent the first 20 minutes going over a stack of invoices. The car is black/black with Ti trim and looks/drives perfectly. My E36 M3 was rear ended and totaled last month and this would be the replacement.

FSU pricing

gsfent — Fri, 11 May 2012 14:10:34 GMT

Just a heads up.

I believe my FSU went Tango Uniform last night.

Called the dealer, $150! List price shows $115. And dealers wonder why they get a bad rap.

Behr OE unit available from Autohaus for $58. URO replacement brand for about $38 (but doesn't qualify for free shipping).

Amazon has the URO for $38, free shipping. So I will try that, if it doesn't work out, then Autohaus Behr will be next.

As an aside, it shut itself off overnight so no dead battery, but restarted shortly after I opened the door. Car started ok, so I may be saved a bad battery if it shuts itself off again.

Regards,
Jerry

Evolve Headers and Cats Installation (Photos)

CMBeamerM5 — Fri, 11 May 2012 13:15:01 GMT

Received my Evolve Medusa headers and cat this week and already started the process of installation. Will post video once I receive my Stage 3 tune from Sal. The quality of the headers were spot on :goldcup:

Audi question for the Bimmerphiles

Beemer Guy — Fri, 11 May 2012 13:11:38 GMT

Even though I am very happy with my current vehicle, I'm always thinking about the next one. And I've got a hankering for the Audi S5. I drove one - it's very nice, adequately powered, great interior, good looks, decent handling. And it's a lot less than a new BMW M. Heck, it's about as much as a well equipped 335, and this one's got a V8 and quattro.

But I'm concerned with Audi quality and reliability. I don't want to be taking it in for service all the time, and especially if I buy a used one, I don't want to be looking at big repair bills. Now we all know that BMW is not the pinnacle of reliability and they are high maintenance cars. So, my question is to those who have owned both: am I in for a potential world of hurt here? Or will it be like owning a BMW? Or maybe even better?

Thanks!
Michael

1503 E39 M5's left in the UK! Complete breakdown of MOT Pass/failure of all M5's in the UK

Zow1 — Fri, 11 May 2012 11:47:20 GMT

This might be of passing academic interest to some.

BMW 5-Series M5 MOT Results | Honest John

It shows that exactly 1503, E39 M5's had an MOT done between oct 2010 and sept 2011.
(not completely sure if that includes re-tests on failures?).

But i think that must be a pretty accurate figure for all the road going E39 M5's left on the UK roads.... it will not of course include those that are 'SORN'.

It seems that 'Suspension - Anti Roll bars/Attachment' are a major failure point, much worse than other cars. Would this be to do with broken rear sway bar clips?

The biggest and most comprehensive analysis of MoT results ever has revealed the success and failure rates of virtually every car on sale in the UK.

However, it's not just the manufacturer of your car that determines how likely it is to get through its MoT - where you live has an effect, too.

Motoring consumer website honestjohn.co.uk has obtained over 24,000,000 MoT records from the Vehicle Operator and Services Agency (VOSA), going all the way back to 1980.

It has painstakingly analysed them to find out which cars have the best and worst pass rates, breaking them down by make, model, year of registration, and even postcode. You can find all the results here.

Looking at more recent MoT test results, it's perhaps no surprise that the manufacturer with the worst pass rate for cars registered in 2008 is French company Renault.

In fact, French cars resoundingly live up to their stereotype, taking three of the top five spots for most failed first MoT tests.

Almost three in ten Renault M�ganes and Citroen C4s failed their first MOT - three times the number of failures notched up by the best performing car, the Suzuki Splash.

The region you live in can make your car less likely to pass its MoT: cars kept in coastal towns are more prone to body corrosion, the data has found.

2003 w/ 3100 miles for sale on Ebay!!!!

joshuaberman — Fri, 11 May 2012 09:31:31 GMT

Thought I'd share this; it's not mine nor am I in any way affiliated with the seller....was just browsing Ebay and saw it and it blew my mind:

Maybe someone here will have some interest

BMW : 5 Series BMW : 5 Series | eBay

STRIPPED VALVE COVER BOLT - best plan of attack/proper way to fix... ?

Kevin The Clean 1 — Fri, 11 May 2012 07:14:54 GMT

The motor in my M5 is sealed up tighter then a drum & built like a submarine. I does not leak a single bit. Even the oil filler cap (upgraded to the E46 M3 piece) doesn't weep at all anymore. But, the owner before me had some crummy dealer work performed (I'm assuming) & I inherited a stripped valve cover bolt on the driver side.

I have dealt with this & put up with it for months by wedging a microfiber cloth under it (to prevent it smothering my alternator with oil). Every week and/or fill up I exchange the cloth with a new one. I also make sure to constantly & consistently check my oil fluid level. But the warm summer moths are coming up soon & I have noticed the high speed fan is coming on sooner & staying on longer. In other words, this stripped VC bolt is allowing more & more oil to weep out as time goes on. My daily fluid loss is steadily increasing (by small amounts of course).

This is way too precious of a motor & it's way too clean for me to let this issue go by the wayside.

How do I attack this STRIPPED VALVE COVER BOLT the correct way... ? I know that all new valve cover & intake cover gaskets should be done while I'm in there. But, I need more details. Do I timesert method this piece & then apply lots of liquid gasket in key areas... ? :dunno:

PLEASE give me some expert insight & very specific details. She is my baby...

Here is a picture of the bolt on my car that I'm talking about/referring to...

Not my car below but better detail of the same exact area I need to work with...

Tirerack Special - General Exclaim UHP - $85/tire!

DesiOC — Fri, 11 May 2012 05:34:16 GMT

Guys,

FYI - Tirerack is running a special on the 285/30/18's, I just ordered 4 and paid $400.74 delivered!

The only catch is that the Production date was 2008; hence the ridiculous price.

Please go to the following link if you are interested:

Tire Search Results

Does anyone know what this is?

Project5 — Fri, 11 May 2012 00:50:17 GMT

It worked it's way loose after a spirited drive through the canyon not sure if it's aftermarket or stock! Any help is much appreciated.

---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?wma0rw

more aggresive exhaust note

jimdon1 — Thu, 10 May 2012 23:10:10 GMT

Hello gentlemen- I know this is a very educated group on our beloved E39's so I am wanting your opinions on this subject. I have Dinan exhaust ( and Dinan software) on my 2003 E39 and enjoy the exhaust note under hard throttle useage but would like more-especially at the medium rpm ranges. I have listened too many on Youtube and read our board. Please fill me in on the' X pipes' and 'straight exhaust' options and any other options for a more aggresive exhaust note. What does this actually do for performance gain if any? This is my fun car-not daily driver-so I dont care if its a 'bit loud'. Thanks and look forward to all your suggestions.

DIY: peake code reader 1b 69 code

metalspeeddemon — Thu, 10 May 2012 21:33:40 GMT

hi got m5 plugged in peake code reader came up with 1b 69 engine coolant temperature plausability dont know what it is any help please ive replaced the coolant sensor in radiator pipe at bottom hose cured one fault tried coolant sensor in thermostat housing and its not that think it could be pusher fan unsure how to test ? thanks :wroom:

For all you race boys

mad dem21 — Thu, 10 May 2012 21:17:46 GMT

I saw this while looking for a new project
BMW V8 E46 PTG Built. Piece of BMW History. BMW V8 E46 PTG Built. Piece of BMW History. | eBay:checkeredflag:

Someone needs to snatch this up before I go rob a bank:crying:

Aeromotive Fuel pump

bibledriver — Thu, 10 May 2012 17:56:18 GMT

So after much procrastination, as the title states, I put in a new fuel pump yesterday. I ordered it from Jegs instead of the amazon, did a price match and there was $3 extra for handling over the price of amazon, but the description of the pump on Jegs made me feel more comfortable.

Part # after all was the 11140, which is the 340 with the center inlet. I did use the sleeve that came with the pump, as you will see on jegs, or if there are supporting images, any other site I'm sure.

The kit came with the pump, a new inlet screen (which I used,OE screen doesn't fit), a short hose (which I didn't use), electrical connection, (spliced and soldered in), and hose clamps (which I used one of to secure OE hose beneath the lid to connect to pump).

There are plenty of DIYs on the fuel pump, so I didn't get crazy with pics or tutorials, but below are some notes SPECIFIC TO THE AEROMOTIVE fuel pump install:

1. Direct fit . . . almost. I removed the original pump from the basket, put the new pump in its sleeve and worked it down in there and the center inlet doesn't line up quite right, as the OE is a slight offset. It is the best pump to choose, if you look at the others, they have nipple inlets. I simply dremeled away to grind some plastic out of the way so that the inlet would protrude as far to the bottom of the tank as possible.

2. I did use the inlet screen and angled it pointing about at the Driver's seat, as there's a little gap in the baffles that it will fit throug almost perfect, aside from a corner bending up. I don't think should be an issue.

3. When splicing, I used paint on electric tape after the fact, which I now realize, I should have just put some heatshrink on first, but didn't. . . Next time (or if I run into issues)I will do it that way, and suggest that to others. (BTW, yellow = +, black = -)

In all, the task wasn't too bad for the first time looking at the system in this car, just had a bit of a time getting the level sending unit out easily, and back in for that matter, and don't have any wisdom, just messed with it long enough for it to come out. Might have been easier if I would have reviewed some DIYs, but hey, there you go.

Findings:

1. My float was cracked at the corner where it connects to the metal hanger piece (which could explain why I ran out of gas that time, but that could have been a sensor thing too as there was a latent code in there (d7 I think with no counter). I superglued it level again and hope that superglue is resistant to gasoline.

2. This pump had already been replaced (111k on the car) with a pump that was labeled "TI Automotive" \ "Germany" Is that aftermarket? didn't have the everpresent BMW logo that you tend to find on parts that are contracted out but OE. Just made me wonder.

Now I'm off on a road trip to Boulder to test it out (already gave it a couple hundred miles to be sure) and will report back on drivability (which so far seems better at low RPMs and the famous transition into 2k RPMs, but not gone all the way).

Good luck and hope that helps if you choose a high flow pump instead of OEM. cherrsagai :flag:

DIY: brake booster replacement and water

technician117 — Thu, 10 May 2012 17:46:22 GMT

Hey guys. My M5 suffered last fall from the dreaded plugged drain hole in the brake booster "compartment". After it filled up enough to suck a ton of water in and cause a rough idle when pushing the brake pedal, I decided to investigate. Of course there was enought "crap" down there to plug up the hole. I got it all cleaned out and left the car in the shop at my work to hopefully dry out.

Well I continued to have problems, most scary of which was getting in my car on a cold snowy winter morning and having a frozen brake pedal! This let me know that there was still a good amount of water in the booster. I finally got around to replacing the booster, and a good thing I didn't wait any longer!

The booster was filled about half way with water when I removed it and dumped it out. The inside was also rusty.

Symptoms: Frozen pedal in winter, reduced power brake capacity with multiple hard/quick depressions of the pedal, strange mid range power band issue - car felt sluggish, not smooth, in that range and felt like it was running rich.

Parts: I replaced the booster with a used one I found. I also replaced the master cylinder o-ring and booster gasket. I probably didn't need either of those gaskets but it was a good idea to have them handy in case I ripped something. (I did replace them since I bought them though) (2) liters of new brake fluid

Tools: 9mm open end wrench for bleeder screws, 11mm? line wrench for brake line connections at the master cylinder, 13mm socket with long extension for the booster nuts under the dash, GT1 for ABS/DSC bleeding, misc other tools I forgot about. :D

Installation time: 3 beers if you have a hard time maneuvering the booster in and out. 2 beers if you have finesse.

Notes and tips:

Jack up car on all 4 corners. Remove wheels. Suck out as much brake fluid as you can from the res. Remove the res. carefully, and immediately tip it up and back towards the cabin air filter box. You need to remove the small line connected with rubber at this time. You will make a mess at this point. Then pull the res. up towards the hood hinge and secure in this position being very careful not to tip the res. in a direction that lets the clutch res. fluid drain out. Some may say to replace this fluid anyways, but my fluid was not in bad shape, and the level of fluid was low enough that it is small quantity to leave behind. It is certainly easier than bleeding the clutch line!

Remove all of the lines from the master cylinder. My lines were in excellent condition and came right out using my fingers after breaking them loose with a line wrench. Unbolt and remove the master cylinder. You will need to remove the nuts from the booster to allow it to come out. Clean the cylinder using brake clean, etc. Be careful not to drop the pin out of it while flipping it around in circles cleaning it. Flush the cylinder with fresh fluid to make sure all of the brake clean is out. You can push the cylinder in and out with your hand, this will cycle fluid through the passages.

Remove the booster by taking off 2 nuts inside the car, and disconnecting the shaft connection at the pedal. Install is reverse of removal. Make sure to check the brake pedal position sensor is still adjusted correctly when the job is done.

Reinstall all parts, be sure to check oring and gasket condition. Fill res. and leave cap off. Install a tube to the right rear wheel on one end, and put the other end in a catch can with a small amount of fluid on the bottom to create a vacuum in the line. Follow GT1 instructions and activate the pump to jitter out air bubbles caught in the system.

The method I found worked good for me is as follows:

Hook up 2amp battery charger. Activate pump with 1 wheel bleeder open. Leave bleeder open entire time. Pump pedal slowly and completely 5+ times. Close valve and repeat procedure for each wheel following this order: Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Use a second person really just to check for air bubbles coming out of your clear tubing hooked to the bleeder. MAKE SURE TO CONTINUALLY CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL IN THE MASTER CYLINDER. Repeat as necessary, and when you think everything is good, go around one last time and bleed the brakes the way you would with 2 people... pump pedal, release fluid, close bleeder, release pedal. Once is good enough. I also used the rubber mallet "trick" during the procedures just for over kill.

I did not have to rebleed anything after the test drive. One and done!

I used 1 1/3 to maybe 1 1/2 liters of brake fluid to do the job.

Pics to follow.

Results: Better braking feel, smoother running, more mid range power (there must have been an air leak as I suspected!)

Attached Thumbnails

Iphone 4S retrofit

paul88 — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:21:06 GMT

My car already had the oem Bluetooth phone. All I did was added.

BMW 5 Series 1997-2003 E39 BMW Bluetooth Eject Cradle Replacement - IPHONE Eject box
Best Sellers BMW Old to new Adapter

I also have the DICE unit, but prefer oem sound quality vs dice. Now I can drive with the phone charging and I can use bluetooth to play music.
and This is what I got.

DIY: alignment after control arm job?

Zhan — Thu, 10 May 2012 15:05:26 GMT

if i want to do upper and lower control arm replacements via lemforder myself, do i need an alignment afterwards?

What's the difference between these Luk clutches?

M5thoughts — Thu, 10 May 2012 14:26:06 GMT

I'm planning to replace the clutch at some point in the not too distant future and think I will stick w/the oem/LUK setup. Although something that's "one step above" would be nice, it seems like there aren't any options that are "one" step up, you have to go about 10 steps up into something like the CNS, UUC, etc... While I like the idea of buying CNS and theoretically never thinking about the clutch again, I also have no intention to add tons of hp to the car and can't justify paying $2k when LUK costs $200 (no fly).

My question is about the two very different part numbers for the clutch:
21-21-7-515-146 - priced at ~$360
03-042 - priced at ~$200

Both parts seem to come w/disc, pp & release bearing. What am I missing?

I'm planning/hoping that I can reuse the flywheel, it's very low mileage (35k). I'm also thinking of just going w/the Autozone route for the "lifetime warranty".

E39 M5 phone retrofit?

Dave Spalding — Thu, 10 May 2012 10:08:23 GMT

What parts would I need to retro fit the phone to my E39 M5? It has sat nav with a phone symbol button on it but no other bits to do with the phone. Or is there a way to get my mobile phone to link up via Bluetooth?

Thanks.

Please help make sense of these codes!

Minion — Thu, 10 May 2012 02:21:46 GMT

Guys of the M5board,
I need your help. I have been having problems with my m5 recently where i got the check engine light and then spit a bunch of oil out the intakes all the way down to the air filters. I have taken apart the VANOS units and replaced all the seals and cleaned out all the little passages. I ended up putting everything back together and got the same problem. Here are the codes i currently have:

72 - �Exhaust camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl #5-8�
B8 - �Intake camshaft VANOS position control, Cyl #1-4�
10 - Crankshaft sensor

and then a bunch of random 8C fault codes

If anyone can help me make sense of this thatd be great. Im lost at this point as to what the problem can be. I scanned it with my normal OBD2 scanner and i only get a p0025 code. Let me know what you think. thanks.

Las Vegas M5 headlight adjusters DIY HELP

Perrodulce — Thu, 10 May 2012 02:05:01 GMT

I have my headlights out while my hood is being repaired and I purchased the adjusters from the member on this board that sells them. I am wondering if there is anyone in Vegas who has done this repair and could assist me? I need to get this done before noon on Friday. I am willing to pay for your time. Thanks,
Dan

Need Indy shop in LA

Mouger — Wed, 09 May 2012 22:28:17 GMT

So this is actually for some family of mine in LA. They live up in the Malibu area and could use an Indy shop somewhere on the West side or even the Valley. They have been using the dealer but they are quickly approaching 50K. Thanks in advance for your help!

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