The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com) - E39 M5 and E52 Z8 Discussion

Radio Module Aux input

La-Sean — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:12:10 GMT

So I searched, researched and tried a bunch of things to get an Aux input working but with no success. After much reading, I found out that there is an "old" new gen. radio BM53 and "new" new gen.. My MY is 05/02 (with M-Audio) so the Aux plug is not present behind the board monitor (I verified) and I tried pins 3,4 and 10 on the radio module with a homemade aux cable incorporating the 300Kohm and .22uF capacitors in line. My radio module plug wires look a bit different than most BM53 pics I've found online when the 2 smaller plugs have a different pin assignment. Most photos I've seen have the tape going into the smaller white plug and the smaller black is free of any wires or that’s where the aux wire go from the front board monitor. Looking at the photo below, I have my CDC going to the white plug and my tape going to the black.

I also noticed that my DSP gets analog feed since the coaxial plug on top of it is no connected to anything. Then there is this mystery coaxial that plugs into my radio module and goes inside my rear deck.

going through the rear deck

Is there some sort of an A/D converter somewhere? I do lose my radio sound if I unplug it but didn’t test what would happen in tape or CD mode. Any input is greatly appreciated. If no Aux input is available, I might just tap into the CDC audio lines for now.
On another note, what is this white box? I searched real-oem for this part # but nothing came up.

Here is an overall shot with all the wires including a truck load of telephone related wires, plugs and intenna connectors

Please ignore the black box in the lower left side, thats a project I've worked on for a later post.
Thanks in advance
Sean

Broken plastic bit on Chain Tensioner!

arotished — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:32:54 GMT

I'm changing the valve cover gasket and I had a look at the 5-8 cylinder chain tensioner and found that the plastic bit that the chain are resting on, on the chain tensioner is broken.

RealOEM.com BMW E39 M5 timing gear timing chain top

Any good idea how to change it? Do the chain between inlet and exhaust camshaft need to go of and most of all, how do you do that?

What do you guys think of the e39 M5 horn?

chadwilkins — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:24:02 GMT

sounds a little wimpy to me, just curious everyone felt the same way. My old e30 M3 has a much stronger horn as does my regular daily driver.

///M insignia below speedometer

DECOCQ — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:01:25 GMT

Does the "///M" emblem light up when the headlights are turned to the on position, whether it be for parking/angel eyes or headlights. I can't remember if it does or does not. If so, are there any ideas on troubleshooting without taking the whole speedo/dash off? Any insight will be greatly appreciated..:lightbulb:

Thanks,

Zach

Ok fess up...how many you guys have night dreams about your ride?

wilsodh — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:04:27 GMT

Had a particularly nice car dream last night, roaring wild and free - unfettered by speed limits and traffic control devices... :S

Although occasionally, there are the nightmares of mishaps/body damage that I'm all too happy to wake up from... :oh:

More the former than the latter thankfully.

And... maybe I'm getting old... more car dreams than sex dreams... :sad2:

Anybody else with your ride on both your waking and subconscious brain??

Dave

Castrol Edge 10w60 for M Engines Deal - UK

Sulli — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:45:14 GMT

Just to let those who are interested know, Opie Oils have a 15% discount at the moment - just input OPIEDISCOUNT when you buy, and this is on top of member's 10% discount.
I am ordering 20 litres for �130 delivered, ie. �6.50 a litre.

Anyone have some good pictures of the e39 m5 when it was still a new car?

NJ.M5 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:30:20 GMT

Pictures of it on the showroom floor? on the lot new?

I kindof want to see what a brand new e39 m5 looked like...not something often posted round here. Anyone have the hookup?

"Nussbaum" Trim for E39 M5

blkbeast — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:29:21 GMT

Is "Nussbaum" the same as Burl Walnut Trim?

Thanks

M5 photos from newbie

jumbo — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:33:23 GMT

Hello everyone, i�d like to share some pictures of my m5, 174500km and -99 model. I bought it last july and i love it:1: About month ago we installed D2 coilover set, maybe a little bit too hard but better than original. Most of pics have taken before D2 installation.

Here is some specs:

Colour: Avusblau Metallic(276)
Upholstery: Praegeleder/schwarz(o5sw)
Prod. date: 1999 - 07 - 08

Order options
No. Description

265 Tire pressure control (RDC)
346 Chrome-line exterior
352 Double glazing
358 Climate comfort windscreen
403 Glas roof, electric
416 Sunblinds
428 Warning triangle
441 Smokers package
465 Through-load system
469 Child seats in rear, integrated
508 Park distance control (PDC)
521 Rain sensor
609 Navigation system professional
620 Voice input system
629 Car telephone (GSM) w card reader front
670 Radio bmw professional
672 Cd changer bmw for 6 cd�s
761 Individual sun protection glazing
776 Individual roof-lining alcantara anthracite
801 Germany version
863 Europe/dealer directory
879 German/owners handbook/service booklet
915 Body skin conservation, delection

Series options
No. Description

210 Dynamic stability control (dsc)
216 Servotronic
261 Side airbag for rear passengers
302 Alarm system
423 Floor mats, velour
430 Int/ext rr vw mirror w aut anti-dazzle
459 Seat adjustm., electr. w. memory
488 Lumbar support driver/front passenger
494 Seat heating f driver/front passenger
500 Headlight washer sys/intensive cleaning
520 Foglights
522 Xenon light
534 Automatic air conditioning
548 Speedometer with kilometer reading
555 On-board computer
710 M leather steering wheel
785 White direction indicator lights

Information
No. Description

415 Sunblind for rear window
464 Skibag
473 Armrest, front
602 On-board monitor with TV
694 Preparation for cd changer

And here is one with D2

Ebc yellow front brake pads m5 e39

M5CYU — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:22:12 GMT

Hi,

Has anybody has any experience of ebc yellow stuff front pads?

are they any good?

cheers

ben

My +5K formula, when buying a BMW...

INDIVIDUAL 5er — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:16:40 GMT

Wondering if people think along the same lines, when shopping for a used BMW ?
Even for a seemingly perfect enthusiasts car, I budget an additional 5 grand for service and neglected items the previous owner refused to address over the past 12 months, knowing he would be selling the car.
If the car needs bling wheels, I add another 3K.

Inspection 2 prices, UK.

maxm5 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:10:14 GMT

Hi

I have one green light left before my inspection 2 is due. I have performed a quick ring around of the local main dealers and the best price I have found is Sytner Sunningdale offering �555 all in. I'm sure I paid less than �500 last time.

Has anyone done any better recently through a main dealer?

Max

BMW Dealer "friends"

m5brah — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:05:19 GMT

All,

I am investigating this M5 in Las Vegas and I can't get the PO's information as well as the dealer does not have any of the maintenance history. Does anyone on the board have any BMW Dealership connections to get the maintenance history of this car? This can help me potentially lock up a deal on purchasing this vehicle.

TIA:thumbsup:

Odd suspension observation -- suspension suddenly firmer ???

Fulltone74 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:48:32 GMT

Hi all:

I noticed that in the past two days, my suspension has become noticeably more controlled with the body motions.

It's like my car has a better ride -- but also noticeably better body control and has a lot less roll in the turns.
It's kind of baffling to me.

The only thing I can think of is that it has been very cold the past few days. Maybe the cold temp makes the shock fluid more viscous and therefore firmer ? :dunno:

Or is this a sign of a shock that is already worn out doing one last gasp of intermittent good operation before totally failing?
Or could it be a case of loose or improperly fitted end links on the sway bars?

I haven't modded my car lately with anything.

Anybody else experience anything like this?

Picture: a ticker from an OLD policebike

Gustav — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:07:10 GMT

No front licenseplate was the only thing I got caught for :applause:

Another time another place: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...tml#post767397

And once more:

So it is good to have it on. :hihi:

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Picture: old picture BMW M5 parked next to Audi RS6 Avant

Gustav — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:00:36 GMT

I thought the RS6 always looked good but on these pictures I think the BMW M5 E39 looked so much better :thumbsup:

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Should I buy extended warranty for my M5?

fahrven — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:32:24 GMT

I just bought my M a few weeks ago with 135 k on it and love the car. It came with a ton of repair and maintenance records so I know it's been cared for. I am now considering extended warranty and the only one offered in California is by CARCHEX. They will only cover powertrain on this car at a cost of $2229 for 3 years / 100k miles. What do you guys think? I know parts are really expensive on the car, esp. engine. Here is the contract details they emailed me. Your opinion is appreciated.

Attached Files

DIM_DuraLubePlus_2009.pdf (59.1 KB)

Loud vanos noise - what can I do?

mamsterla — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:29:52 GMT

I have a pretty loud version of what I believe is Vanos noise - sorry about the video. I was really just trying to get the noise.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Even after the car warms up and is driven around, this noise persists. The car is driving well - no obvious problems
or issues with idle or normal driving. The noise definitely sounds like it is coming from the top end of the
engine - does not sound like rod knock to me. Now my questions to the collected wisdom of the board:

1. Does it seem likely that it could be vanos noise even after driving for say 15 minutes or more?
2. Would a fix of the o-rings and a solenoid check be in order - and would it help?
3. How does one check the accumulator to verify that it is in place (this is a 2001 car) and works?

Here is a complete list of current Peak Codes:

29 - “Air mass sensor, Cyl #1-4”
39 - “Air mass sensor, Cyl #5-8”
8C - Engine noise too high
69 - “Engine coolant temperature, Plausibility”
1A - “Ignition Coil, Cyl #8”
C5 - “Misfire, Cyl #2”
C6 - “Misfire, Cyl #3”
CC - “Misfire, multiple cylinders”
95 - Misfire w/ empty fuel tank
90 - “Fuel control, Cyl #1-4”
91 - “Fuel control, Cyl #5-8”

I am worried that it may be something worse than vanos noise, so I would like to hear what others think. I will be taking it to an Indy with a
GT-1 on Saturday, but I wanted to know how to narrow things down as best as I can before that.

Removing Valve Cover?

arotished — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:56:08 GMT

Well, I guess this has been mention before but I don't have time to search.

I have just removed all 8 nuts and the three bolts on in the front (these don't go all the way out right?) and are trying to remove the covers but they are stuck. Any hint/tips to how to remove them without destroying anything?

Another thing, any good idea in how to loose the FAN nut if you don't have that special water pump pully lock? This nut is links right? help

Thanks for the.

Andr�

Got my first speeding ticket today

Essixtytwo — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:35:44 GMT

Came home from work this afternoon and found my first speeding ticket as owner of the beast in the mail. Not too big of a deal really, I was doing 112 km/h where 100 is the max so it won't break the bank. Still is a total waste of money, no matter how you slice it.

I never got speeding tickets before but I sort of expected it to happen at some point in time when owning an M5, so no surprises there. However, the weird thing in this case is (or maybe it's just proof of bad luck) my violation was recorded on october 10th of last month at approx. 7.00PM, which is just a couple of hours after I picked up the beast and became her proud owner!

Sure hope this isn't the first of many more to come, as it's extremely easy to go way too fast in this car....

Bruised left cheek and a scratch for my Beast!!

Leezamonkey — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:27:58 GMT

Hey guys just thought I'd share my misfortune with you all! After the recent shite windy weather over here, there were quite a few trees down. Living out in the sticks as I do I hit a huge branch sticking outta the bushes!grrrrrrr:crying:

Here be the damage, front wing's dented and there is a scrape all the way down the side which will polish out (hard to see in pics), she's in for the work Monday to be completed by Thursday for the BMW day at Brands Hatch, also some rust he's sorting out for me at the same time, what a rush!!:eek7:
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bosch icon/rain-x latitude wiper blades

mkdz — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:08:01 GMT

Do they make these type of Bosch icon or rain-x latitude wipers for the beast:

Amazon.com: Bosch 424A ICON Wiper Blade - 24": Automotive

I had them on my last car, and they didn't cause the streaking.

Failed CA Smog check...

jacho5406 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:01:50 GMT

Hi guys
Anybody can tell why my car is burning so rich?
2001 153k miles Dinan CAI and Free flow Exhaust (maybe too free).
Reflashed with recalled Epa software 2 years ago.

Going for new spark plugs, pre cat o2 sensors and fuel filter...
Suspecting bad cats and ... ?
Thanks

Attached Files

M5 smog 001.pdf (852.5 KB)

Shuddering window wiper

huesey1974 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:45:16 GMT

Hi,
I done a search regarding this problem but only really came up with solutions on the E34 M5. My drivers side blade shudders on the wndow while arcing up the screen.The other side is fine and i have put new blades on with no joy.Can the arms be adjusted or anything?

Thanks

cold run

frank///M5 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:18:52 GMT

members,

my car has a problem whit the cold run the first two minuts.

when i start the car cold,he bumps and shakes for two minutes when i drive her.

there are no falt codes on the computer.

does anybody know what the problem is?

thanks.

Illuminated shift knobs - Bimmian metal or ZHP?

-BEASTMW- — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:45:48 GMT

I'm finally coming to grips with how much it will cost to switch from my wood trim (I'm sorry, the orange-ness of it is just not growing on me) to titan line trim. The trim is on its way, so now it's time to choose a new shift knob to go with the trim and Bimmian e-brake handle that I plan to get. I want to keep the illumination, and am considering two options:

Bimmian illuminated knob, $60, pic of azaytsev's car:

Illuminated ZHP knob, $165 from LeatherZ:

Obviously, the ZHP knob costs over $100 more, so I'm leaning towards the Bimmian knob, but I'm worried that the metal will be cold/hot all the time, although weather in Seattle generally stays between 30-90 degrees F and I have tinted windows. Does anybody have any real world input on the two? FYI I already have the E60 SSK + DSSR installed.

740 Sport Wheels on M5?

kosmo — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:35:56 GMT

What do you fellas think? I've always liked the look.

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Winding Road e-magazine article on the ///M5

gherardini — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:27:44 GMT

Haven't even read it yet. It looks like a history article on the ///M lifespan as well as taking all the ///M models out to Nurburgring. OOOOOooooo!

Get it here...
Winding Road Magazine | Issue 52

You may have to install a plug-in to read the magazine, it's safe to do so. Great magazine...

Any board members in Vegas area...

m5brah — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:23:24 GMT

All,

I am amp'd that I may have found the M5 I want :M5eyes:. It is in the Las Vegas area, to be exact:

6755 West Sahara Avenue
Las Vegas, Nevada 89146

I would REALLY appreciate if someone on the board could inspect this car for me. I might be able to have this car shipped closer to me for a decent price if the car is as clean as specified. If someone is in that area and can do it please let me know!!!

PM or just reply to this post and I will PM you.

Regards,

Car History check please???

m5brah — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:17:37 GMT

WBSDE93463CF92606 - This was a Cali car.

Much thanks!

I'm looking for pictures of E39 M5 with...

V8MPower — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:22:12 GMT

...black powder-coated OEM 18'' rims but with polish lip...and if possible a carbon black version! :rolleyes:

I can not find any on the internet, plz help me. :typing:

thx :blink:

What do you want made for your car CNC?

Zoli 007 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:40:44 GMT

I have access to a CNC machine and between myself and a few other very talented people, can come up with some very nice ideas for the car.

Gustav please remove this if this violates any terms of service. Im merely looking to garner interest in anything really that could improve the car's we all love.

So please, Im all ears. I have some ideas myself of things that I can do, but I'd love to hear what is really NEEDED or wanted.

Thanks!

And btw I have access to a great multitude of materials from stainless, aluminum to plastics, etc...

Looking to buy an E39 M5. (Teenager)

aretardedorange — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:03:25 GMT

I am a 16 year old responsible teenager who is looking to buy an E39 M5. At the moment I am driving a 2008 E60 (528i), but its my parents car and even though they don't use it I would like to get my own wheels. :thumbsup:

When I say responsible I mean it, I am not a kid who likes to go 150+ on the road. Although today was my first time going 95MPH and I got scared and went back down to 60 :S.

I have about $6k and my parents would give me another $7k-$8k so all together I would have appx: $14k ;). I will be working again this summer so I would save another $3k-$4k for maintenance costs.

The E39's I am considering have 110k+ miles and are 01-02 models. The E46 M3 and the E39 M5 cost about the same for the 00/01 models with the same amount of mileage.

This car will be taking me to school every single day and to work later on during the summer. Errands will be run in this car just normal everyday stuff. You can call it a DD I guess...? :oh: Don't worry I will be paying for my own gas.

Just need to know what DIY things can I do, I am very interested in learning about this car even more then I already know and I just can't wait! I got into the M5 scene when my parents got the 528i I saw one looked at the specs and have been in love ever since :hihi:.

Thanks in advance. :byee55amg

E39 M5 Clutch Life

NYC_M5 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:27:42 GMT

I'd appreciate hearing when original clutches generally need replacement based on member experience - I don't think I'm clutch-abusive, I do like to run through my gears at high rpm, 6th - 4th downshifts at perhaps 60mph, but no dropping the clutch on launches etc. Thanks

M5board discount at CNS Racing still Good?

kosmo — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:45:51 GMT

I recall seeing a discount of 10% or $100. Is this still good? thanks

My AW E39 w/ BBS LMs and KW V2

kirbanana — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:58:50 GMT

here it is. let me know what you guys think...

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Preventive Maintenance

DrMoussaka — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:54:27 GMT

So i got my car about 2 weeks ago and i thought i would do a complete overhaul of things to make the car "like new again". After reading through the forums i found that these are some things that should be changed out or replaced.

EDIT: Mileage is at 87K

So far I have:

- New Plugs
- New O2 Sensors
- New Fuel Filter
- New MAFS
- Royal Purple Diff Fluid
- Royal Purple Trans Fluid

Others to install since im updating and upgrading
- SSK
- CAI
- Exhaust

Anything else that someone can chime in that I should be doing to the car? I wouldn't say that money is absolutely no option. However, if its needed then i will pay the money to do it.

Anyone have a spare set of S62 camshafts?

ar design — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:10:32 GMT

Anyone have a spare set of S62 camshafts? I need a set for some measurements on the Cam Dr...... If some lobes are damaged that is fine, as we just need to measure 1 intake, and 1 exhaust..... :thumbsup:

Some Crappy Photos of My Stoptech "Trophy" Front Brakes

herrubermensch — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 17:33:37 GMT

Finally got these on yesterday, but didn't have time to do the rears or to bleed the system yet. Took time to figure out how the Dinan/Brembos came apart, get the right sockets/wrenches, and then break the bolts loose! Passenger side took four hours! Driver's side took one and a half! Anyway, the brakes look so much better than these crappy pics, but this is the best I could take with my iPhone!

--Peter

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[Winding Road] Article on all 4 generations of M5

kees — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:55:04 GMT

Great article with a test of all 4 generations of M5 on the N�rburgring with guest appearances of the M635CSi & M1.

Winding Road Magazine | Issue 52

Worthwhile reading!

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Power loss when accelerating hard

StevoL — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:29:38 GMT

hey, new owner here, I have some issues with it that have me a bit confused, lately whenever I accelerate hard it kind of just revs out and almost no power gets to the wheels, its extremely sluggish, the problem seems to be much worse in hotter weather, sometimes on colder nights it can drive fine

I bought the Peake reader and its giving me the following codes

AA - secondary air system flow too low
50 - switchchain grip
6A - brake light switch

I dont want to take it to a dealership so I took the car to a shop nearby that appears to specialise in M cars, they said its a vanos problem, something to do with pressure on the right side then I got a bit lost in his technical jargon

It seems strange to me, firstly that the peake reader isnt giving me any vanos errors, and the car sounds fine, no noticeable vanos ticking sounds or anything either...

any suggestions/ideas would be great

also, anyone know of a good mechanic to take the car in melbourne, aus?

3 beeps on start up? not memo function

olegd88 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 07:16:01 GMT

Hey guys, I started getting 3 beeps every time i start the car. Its not the memo function. I can't figure out what it is. Ive searched on the forums and all I can find is people saying memo function is on, mine is off. I read the manual and did not find anything either. I have no warning lights on.

Any ideas?

Thanks. :)

best motoring m5 vs c43 amg

mmzcee — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:51:00 GMT

don't know if anyone's seen this. thought i'd share some good touge drift action in this vid.

YouTube - Best Motoring M5 C43 AMG drifting

Cigarette Lighter outlet?

kosmo — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:35:32 GMT

Is there any harm in using a outlet multiplier so I can plug in more than 1 electronic item? I saw one the other day w/ 3 outlets which is just right to plug in a V1, Ipod, & Cellphone. tks

Squeel coming from passenger side front wheel, 30-50mph

NJ.M5 — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:12:02 GMT

I have this annoying high pitched squeal that seems to be getting worst from what sounds like my front right tire. It sounds almost like one of those electronic Halloween ghost noises. It changes pitch with what sounds like every revolution of the wheel and seems to be effected by the brakes.

What could be rubbing in here?? I had a brake job done a little over a month ago by another board member who is a BMW tech.

Anything I should try? You can't really hear it with music on but with music off its ANNOYINGgrrrrrrr

What are the best A/F ratios for the S62 motor?

havasusteve03Beast — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:28:46 GMT

So i did a search, there are opinions, variations of those opinions, with varying opinions based on mods vs. stock etc.

Some of you know that I did a Dyno last week with a basically stock car sans Powerchip 93 & AA CAI. The power was good, but the A/F ratios were on the lean side IMHO. Especially considering that a Dno is not going to allow a car as much air as it would receive under normal hauling a-- conditions.

I installed headers and SS CATS this past week, which I know have further leaned the car out. My appointment with Travis & Da Boyz @ Powerchip is Thurs., followed up in the afternoon with another Dyno run.

My question is this: What A/F ratios would YOU GUYS recommend. I trust Powerchip, but want unbiased input from the real experts that have driven / do drive these cars all the time....Here is a copy of my Dyno sheet again. You will note that unfortunately no RPM levels were recorded. (Yeah, Yeah I know that would help with A/F adjustments) The ratios, even though they are lean are linear across the board, which I believe is a good thing?? Also, the torque numbers which were printed out because the rpm issue appeared to be consistanly in the 320's

My thinking is that I should be somewhere between 12-12.5 through-out the RPM range.

Debate.....

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Slight bucking when letting off of accelerator

M5Ewert — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:05:35 GMT

**I searched several strings but none I found answered my question**

I noticed tonight when driving home that when I let off of the gas (essentially engine braking) the car bucks slightly, although noticeably. It only bucks a few times and only on the initial letting off of the gas. I just had an Inspection II on Saturday and replaced trans and diff fluids with Royal Purple products. Could this be a failing clutch or a result of changing the trans and diff fluids???

New MAF's

Seisup — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:04:14 GMT

I need some newbies...has anyone found a cheap source for these recently? I found a link for UK only doing a search....

Advice after fitting Koni Sport's

thedeveloper0 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 22:37:04 GMT

Hi Guys,

I have recently fitted koni sport shocks all round and replaced the rear balljoints.

I noticed the other day when i pulled out of a junction rather quickly some quite bad "axle tramp" from the rear which never happend with the standard suspension. I set the rear shocks to 3/4 turn from soft as recommended on this board and also replaced all top mounts etc.

Any ideas what could be causing this?

Anyone looking to sell some catalytic converters?

TexasM5 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 21:44:55 GMT

I need a pair of catalytic converters as mine have been judged bad by both a dealer and an independent shop I trust. Rather than spend thousands on a new set I thought one of you new cat-back exhaust guys might be willing to unload an otherwise good set. Thanks for any and all private responses.

Bud

M5 owners with OEM wheels in MELBOURNE AUST

Apples — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:39:32 GMT

Hi Southern Hemisphere Hoons.

Needing to potentially get hold of some pics of OEM wheels or better get pics done with the ute next to the OEM wheels so I can then just get them photoshopped on with ease.
I also need to get some pics of a stock hood to have them doctored in as well as VicRoads would rather have a totally stock front end.

Apples

Need some photshop pics done.... anybody help me?

Apples — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:33:46 GMT

Howdee/G-Day

I might need some photoshop work on adding some door handles to the ute and a stock hood (not GTR that I have)
I need stock wheels as well added.

I might see if I can find some OEM M5 wheels in Melb (OZ) take pics of them and door handles at a similar distance to what I'll take the ute at and it should be easy for the person offering their skills?

Apples

Wheel speed sensor picks up from what location

Apples — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:27:43 GMT

Anybody know the location the car receives the speed sensor readings from?

I've not done any burn outs to see if it's rear wheel rotation (sounds like a good idea though)

Apples

Paddle Shifters

chadwilkins — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:02:30 GMT

you guys ever heard of these?
Paddle Shifters, Sequential and Electronic - ASaP
I came across them on accident. Is there a way to retrofit our e39's with BMW paddle shifters?

A bunch of M5s at Leith Open House in Raleigh?

Beemer Guy — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:50:58 GMT

Saturday morning, November 14 at Leith BMW in Raleigh, NC. I was in the shop chatting with someone and I saw several E39 M5s pull into the parking lot, one of every color it seemed. By the time I got outside, hoping to meet some of you guys, they were all gone!

Maybe they weren't list members? Maybe they parked somewhere else? Maybe I was mistaken? :dunno:

Anyone? Bueller? :confused3

Michael

Diff noise.. Need help!!!

rkhudave — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:42:26 GMT

Last week i changed the oil on my Dinan differential. The old oil was Red Line 75/90 Fully synthetic Gear Oil so i bought the same Red Line 75/90. While driving in traffic yesterday i noticed that there is a chatter in the diff. After reading some documentation behind the Red Line bottle. It states that this is oil is used for race applications and chatter or cling type of noise may be present. For street application they suggest adding gear additive. Has anyone had any experience with this? I am going back to the mechanic tonight either to add this additive or drain it completely are refill with what he recommends (Liqui Moly or Motul). Advise, recommendations, your experience...

New M5 owner

SLC00M5 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:06:27 GMT

After 12 years driving a E36 M3/4, I made the switch. I always knew the day would come when I would find my M3 a nice home and then find myself a used E39 M5. I sold my M3 just over a month ago and yes I have sellers remorse, but I found the right M5 last week.

I wanted to stay away from a 2000, but that's what I ended up with. I drove a total of 6 different M5s and I bought the one that drove and handled the best.

Car is Alpine White over Caramel leather with 85,000 miles. I paid $16,250. One of the most important aspects of changing to an M5 was to retain at least $2000 in a maintenance slush fund account. I am planning on this covering my first year of maintenance. Hopefully it's enough, but only time will tell.

Upgrades include; updated headlights with angle eyes, AC Schnitzer shocks, H&R springs, Rouge short shifter, Shark Injector software and 19" Axis wheels with new rubber. I am not a fan of the wheels, but they will do for now. The exterior is a 9/10 and interior about a 7/10. Unfortunately the leather is not great, alot of cracks and discoloration. I will refinish the leather over the winter.

Car has alot of recent maintenance such as; clutch, flywheel, fuel pump, fuel filter, rotor, pads, spark plugs and fluids.

After putting about 300 miles on the car all I can say is; it's a beast and boy does it love gas. Suspension is tight and feels light, but still comfortable. Throttle response is unbelievable. It's a ball having all that torque available at such low RPMs. I have not taken the car over 115 miles per hour and have not even used the 6th gear.

I must say I miss the steering response of the E36 M3, but the M5 more than makes up for the heavy steering with all kinds of torque.

A few questions;

Will running 18" wheels give me a lighter turn in? The front end of the M5 is really heavy compared to the M3. Rubber on the front right now is 245 x 35 x 19.

My temp gauge keeps falling off middle, it seems to run a bit cold. I think I need a new t-stat. I will take car of this over the next few weeks.

I have a set of 17" style 5s I run on my 1991 535i 5 speed with summer rubber, I am planning on putting blizzak snow tires on these for winter tires for the M5. Anyone running non-staggered 17" wheels on the M5. I assume this will effect oversteer just as it did going non-staggered in the M3.

The one other item the car needs is a new pixel cluster and I will be working through BMWUSA to get one.

I look forward to years of ownership with my 2000 M5. I am thinking I should buy some shares of Chevron stock.

Attached Thumbnails

Tubi rumore question

m5_abe — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:39:33 GMT

I have a few questions on the Tubi Rumore exhaust with x-pipe for the e39 m5.
1. How much dose a used tubi rumore go for with x-pipe?
2. What are the hp gains from the exhaust?
3. Is the tubi one of the top exhaust for the m5?

Thanks
Abe

My new e39 m5

M5CYU — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 09:45:37 GMT

Just recently purchased a 2001 bmw e39 m5 and thought i show u some pics

Oil change long overdue?

D-RodM5 — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:27:50 GMT

So I bought my Beast back in June of 2008 with 76k, put 'er away that December and didn't start driving again 'til about May of 2009. I put about 4k before garaging the car and then about 8k since driving it since May of this year. It was bad on me for not figuring out when the last oil change was done - I know. But what I'm getting at is the oil service indicator still shows three green bars left. I figured I'd play it on the safe side and change the oil after putting on 12k. I looked at the oil and it looked dark brown so that also convinced me. I'm also figuring that the green lights are counting down to an Inspection and not an oil change (since there is no way to know which one according to page 38 in the Peake code manual).

Bottom line is I changed the oil on Sunday thanks to a DIY with pictures from a member on this board. Many thanks to him! I took 'er for a drive after and it felt great! I did find a massive oil stain on the underside plastic protector after hanging out underneath the car for two hours. Could this be a rear main seal leak? Attached are some pics after the oil change for your viewing pleasure.

In case you're wondering, I added 5W-30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil for engines over 75k. Anyone else do this?

Thanks for viewing/responding! :byebye:

Attached Thumbnails

Nabio - here's your reply re Hankook Icebear W300s

richmondbob — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:45:26 GMT

Re: Hankook W300

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nabio

Hey, I just noticed after searching you said in a thread you used the Icebear W300s. I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on these and wanted to know what you think. How are they in the dry vs the snow? I will probably be making a couple trips to MN this winter using the interstate so I will be driving on some plowed roads and need to worry about ice. Thanks!

Man, I haven't been on this board in awhile! Turns out I don't have enough posts to be able to PM you so here's my reply via a thread:

The Hankook Icebear W300's are great tires and I couldn't be happier with my choice. I'm running the stock offset rims with these tires as I don't like the look of the M5 with narrow rear tires. Other members have rightfully written that it's best to run the narrower front wheel width front and back for winter conditions. But again, I don't like the look of narrow rear tires. The Icebear W300's are like glue on ice and cut through snow well (unless it's deep enough to make my car into a snowplow).

One thing to mention is that I have a Jeep for when it's really bad (4x4 plus winter tires). And let's face it, if the weather's bad enough for me to use my Jeep there's no way, even with narrow winter tires front and rear, that I'd use my M5 in those conditions. Some things just aren't worth risking life, limb or your M5 for.

Custom Headers

Allwheeldrive — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:29:39 GMT

Hey guys check out stainlessheaders.com . Spoke with them today and they have a very neat service . They send you a mock up kit to use on your can and you send it back . Once they get it , they build headers based on your plastic locked mockup . they can do 4-2-1 , stepped or whatever for 1300-1600 . He was not a big fan of 4-2-1 and favors the TRI-y 1 3/4 headers .

Dave

e39 m5 / s62 Cutaway drawing/image, high resolution

Nadir(Detroit) — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:21:26 GMT

Hey everyone, i'm looking for a cutaway drawing of the e39 m5 and/or s62 engine, the higher the resolution the better. Looks like all the links in the older posts are dead. if the file is too large, you can email it to me: nadir.m.ali@gmail.com

Thanks so much!
-Nadir

new member from holland

frank///M5 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:20:33 GMT

hello,a new member again.
i own a 99 M5 carbonblack whit full leather comfort interieur fore one year now,and it is a amasing car.

here are some pictures of my M5

thank you.

Black box on top of navigation CD-drive

marlow — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:14:11 GMT

Hi,

as my body shop guy currently is fixing my left rear quarterpanel (and other bits), we've been taking the electronics out of my M5, so they don't get damaged.

By doing that I came across obviously various parts labeled Loewe, Phillips or Backer, but one part specificly caught my eye. It's a black box, with a grey key in the corner and sits above the Navigation CD-rom drive. It has no sticker with a brand name or part number, only sticker on there is a serial number and a service number, which looks like UK format.

My first hunch was, it might be a tracker, but maybe somebody can shed some more light into that.

/M

Anybody have stock cats they're willing to sell?

00M5MD — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 20:20:00 GMT

Depending on a couple things and if I don't get used cats from my buyer, I may need a set of used cats after I ship my exhaust.

Does anybody have their stock cats laying around and willing to sell? If so, please post here or PM me.

Thank you!

Castrol Syntec / K&N Oil filter Sale; Autozone

havasusteve03Beast — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:55:42 GMT

Not sure if this will be of benefit or not. I have been running the 5/30 Castrol Syntec in my car. Autozone has 5 1/2 Qt jugs on sale w/ a K&N oil filter for $27.99 through Weds. I bought 2, so I got 10+ qts of oil and 2 filters for about $60 + tax...Good deal in my opinion..

Steve

Bethlehem PA meet, lots of pics, great cars! (lots of big pics warning)

rdm190 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:19:14 GMT

Met with a whole new group of guys and had a great time. Everything from vintage BMW to a new 650i. It is really awesome to see such a broad range of bimmers. Anyway, hope you guys enjoy this pics, I think I got a few good ones of my beast :viking: I was the only E39 M there, hope I represented us well!

Getting ready for her day out.

So clean..

Group shot #1

650i, my car, a mint 5er that was in amazing shape.

Group side #1 again

Unbelievable 2002

Gota give the E30 some love, very clean

Very well done E46M, appeared to be an Active Autoweks job

Super clean M5, my other sibling at this meet

Another super clean example of BMW heritage.

The E36 M still holds a place in my heart, was my first M. Random Audi S4 :dunno:

I love a clean M Roadster.

I'd say she's got a little power going on..

Crappy shot of group #2

Very nice E36, needed some TLC though :crying:

Ah the Sedan, another fav of mine

Nice ground level shot of my baby, with my baby sitting it her...

Had to let out some exposer on this one, I got pretty steady hands huh? No tripod ma..

I hope you enjoyed!

-Ryan

Member modmini gorgeous Imola Red with Brembo brakes front and rear

RickRack — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:18:04 GMT

How does the M5 handle in the snow?

mkdz — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:48:24 GMT

I live in the Baltimore area so it doesn't really snow that much, but we will get snowed on at least a couple times a year. So the question is how does the M5 handle in the snow on the completely stock wheels and all-season tires? I probably wouldn't go to work if there was 4+ inches of snow, but I would still go if there was an inch or two. The main portion of my drive is the interstate (I-95) and that usually gets cleared of snow pretty fast, but who knows about the side roads.

Alternator - "Bad Diode" error code

real246 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:20:33 GMT

I've searched and searched, maybe the keywords I'm using are not correct. I thought my battery was bad since I've had to get the car jumped a few times in the past week or two and I finally went and got the battery tested, they say it's a good battery just needs charging. Asked if they (Batteries Plus) could check my alternator, they did and it came back with a "Bad Diode" error. Only putting out 43 Amps. Some searching around and I see how to take the serpentine belt off but no alternator. Looks like RockAuto.com has some re-manufactured alternators so I'll get one of those likely or check with my local part store. I'd like to do the work myself but haven't seen a walk through yet, or is it that straight forward? I'd like to do it while the car is on a lift, so going from top (as my search revealed) is not advantageous. Anyone know of a walk-through they could point me in the direction of please?

-Ryan

Some videos and jerky acceleration!

greg12m3 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:13:25 GMT

I took a view videos yesterday and thought I would share, my car has had the resonator replaced with straight pipes and also has the air intake setup like the AA one with the car pulling air from the brake ducts.

Cold start - YouTube - BMW E39 M5 cold start

1-3rd gear pull - YouTube - 2003 BMW e39 M5 exhaust noise

a walk around of my car - YouTube - 2003 bmw e39 m5 walk around

ALSO, I've been reading through old posts since last night about the tps/pedal position sensor because my car threw a code yesterday for "tps pedal position sensor switch B" and also for something else, saying "tps/pedal position sensor..." but I couldn't read my writing to see what the rest was. Any insight is appreciated!

DME Software update - how much? (UK)

vchachanidze — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:29:56 GMT

Any idea how much UK BMW dealers charge for DME software upgrade?
Apparently my car's software is very old...

M5 uprated front pads

M5CYU — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 12:01:39 GMT

Hi,

i need some new front discs and pads, sorted some discs out but wanted some uprated pads, dont wanna spend that much but dont want ebc. any suggestions?

cheers ben:)

E39 M5 Vs. 2007 Carrera 4S

SA-M5 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 08:23:00 GMT

What are the chances? hmmm

Should the KTMP fluctuate much?

Andref — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 07:58:47 GMT

After a couple of posts regarding thermostats and coolant temp, I've been watching my KTMP recently since my temp gauge sits just to the left of centre. The KTMP never drops below 79degC which I understand is good, but it does fluctuate up to around 85deg in traffic and when working hard. It has never gone above 85deg and always comes down pretty quickly. Highway driving sits at about 80deg.

I'm just asking since on my previous BMW the needle used to sit dead centre and never moved. Time for a new thermostat maybe? What are you guys seeing?

Thanks

INDIVIDUAL 5er's Sirius antenna install idea

Hdhntr23 — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:50:43 GMT

Hey guys,

I wanted to share with you a great idea for a VERY elegant and functional idea for anyone who is putting in the Sirius retro fit for where to pu the antenna.

I originally had my antenna installed underneath my C-Fiber roof spoiler. I didnt receive a signal AT ALL. (There was $30 down the drain). I wouldve had to take off that spoiler to get to the antenna and that just wasnt an option. I think because of either the epoxy on the C-Fiber or the C-Fiber itself, it wouldnt allow a signal to pass thru to the antenna. I know that most of you have yours installed underneath the fabric of your rear deck shelf. I knew that this would be an issue for me because of my metallic window tint. Im already having AM/FM reception issues and I didnt want to go thru the hassle of installing it there to only find out I would have to take it down.

While reading a thread where Individual 5er's had posted I read his list of mods. He installed it in the high brake mount light!!!

Wow what an idea. Elegant, functional (cause theres no tint there for me) and incredibly easy to put the antenna in there!!

Thanks Individual 5er's!!!

I drove around for an hour testing it and Im getting the same exact signal I was getting when I had the antenna magnetically stuck to the top of my trunk.

Now if I could only solve my AM/FM reception issues with the same elegance and functionality.

I just scored a StealthOne

jfman — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:11:33 GMT

Ok this is just a bragging thread :D I just bought a brand new stealthone for $200. The box came in friday at my parents house in Georgia. Now I need to save some cash for a V1. :cheers:

2010 camaro ss and e39 m5

max95se — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:12:54 GMT

anybody have any ideas if these cars are alot faster from dead stop or from 60mph and up?
this guy was toying with me in the hway but had my toddler in the backseat with me.
i wonder if he would have spanked me all the way home.... without any chance

NJ M5 Drive ...

Rkeetec — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:01:04 GMT

Here is what I posted on the regional forum about our get together this morning in NJ. I just wanted to post it here to let everyone know what a class group of guy we have on here

hey guys,
First I want to say, despite what happened to my car, I am so glad I came out today for the run

You guys were fantastic!

Fo those who weren't there, we were having a spirited run through Harriman Park in Rockland County NY
Very quickly, I lost my power steering on a very cuvy road, at speed. I noticed my battery light on, them my temp skyrocketed!
Yup, I lost my serpentine belt!

I slowed down, put my hazards on and looked for a place to pull over, INFL8 was behind me, he pulled over also and called the lead guys
everyone came back and we checked out the situation
I limped back to a rest area we passed about 2 miles back and called AAA
While waiting for AAA, we popped the hood and checked out the situation. In what would have been the greatest save of all time, INFL8 found a belt in his trunk. We gave it a good try, but the belt wasnt the right size. That would have been the ultimate save, a repair like that in the middle of the woods, with only our tool kit tools, a leatherman and hand santizer!!lol

I decided the best thing to do was to tow it home, even if i was over an hour away. I highly recommend anyone who drive the way we do to have AAA and even better, the AAA plus which would have covered my towing 100%. Even the regular plan's towing rates were 1/3rd of what it would have cost normally
It cost me under $300 to get the car home. hats off also to Loyal towing of Harriman, the local AAA rep. They arrived fast, found us (in a State park), and didn't hesitate when I decided to go all the way

I really want to thank you guys, you hung with me when you could have left, you offered everything from cash, advice, to tools to rides home.I only met you guys an hour or two earlier, and you couldnt have been nicer. I hope you got a chance to finish up the ride

I told Anthony from Loayal Towing that I probably could have bought a new Camry or something for what I paid for a 9 year old car, but I'd never have as much fun in it as I have with this car, and I surely wouldn't find a group of guys as enthuisastic (spelling) about driving and thier cars as I did with this car

Thanks guys, I'll post pics later

Since I forgot most of your names and screennames, I'll go by car
Thanks supercharged E39 for your offering to halp with cash without even thinking
Thanks gorgeous red with carmel interior for getting under the hood, bringing tools and most impoprtantly, hand cleaner!
Thanks blue/black E 39 for almost being the hero with the belt, and for offering a ride home
Thanks E60 M5 for cheking through your GPS for local parts stores and and being on the ready to use muscles to move a tensioner
Thanks to the new M3 for the umbrella (to lever the tensioner) and your insite in the area and what to do

Seriously guys, you rock
I picked up the new belt this afternoon but I'll have to work on it later this week

I'll keep ou posted

Rich

Board Members Knowledge needed..

Infamous Q — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:00:24 GMT

My Baby passed 95XXX miles last night and I want to do some PM on her I'm going to replace the fuel filter, Cats, and transmission fluid. I know there are other things I can do to prolong her life please give me your imput and suggestions on this matter.....

Thanks Q

Dinan Cold Air Intake instructions

clo — Mon, 16 Nov 2009 00:30:31 GMT

Anybody got a link to some install instructions for the Dinan Cold Air Intake setup? It looks pretty straightforward but I want to be sure I don't miss anything. Already tried the search and didn't find anything. Thanks in advance.

New exhaust

Tortuga — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:52:45 GMT

The new cats are throwing codes once in a while, but i understand this can be addressed via a sw tweak. My major concern is what sounds like an exhaust leak, there is alot of what i percieve as ticking like an exhaust leak. I ran the car up on ramps and felt/listened but found nothing; unfortunately short of a trained ferret I can't get anywhere near the header-head connection.

Is this the bad with the good?I do plan on getting some SS resonators to quiet it down a touch, I love the power and the Steve McQueen V8 wail when the opportunity arises when the spurs can be put to her, but it sounds cheap and ricey just tooling around...

I want LED angel eyes, easy to install and bright

dark knight — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:47:40 GMT

I want teh LEDs I wnat them on i the daytime to get people out of my way, i want bright ones and I want ones that wont cause error messages and are easy to install, I searched and there were too may threads to look at for me with my ADD, so.... what is the general consensus on this at present

MY00 and 01-03 cats, resonator, mufflers all interchangeable???

00M5MD — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:11:51 GMT

Just as the subject states, are these areas all the same? Can you swap the 01-03 cats/resonator/mufflers onto a 2000 car?

Thank you

Amber celis question

josiahg52 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:10:28 GMT

So I just found about these things (about 3/4 way down on the first page).

A few questions:

Do these have the four LED side-markers like the U.S. celis?
Do these have the rear fog-lights' fixtures?
. . . and the most important: are these available and where from?

Thanks for the help!

A morning at the shop fabricating stuff (loads of pics)!

Diny — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 17:11:03 GMT

So, yesterday we went over to my father's job to use the lathe and remake my gauge rings (talked about and pictured in this thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...uge-rings.html). Since there was interest in that thread, I brought the camera along to show the fabricating process. We also made a stainless steel knob (from this thread: http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e39...head-unit.html) so I'll post the fabricating process for that one as well. In fact, let's start with that one!

First, an introduction: This is my father working his magic. Apparently, this is a rare sight, since he says that a lot of new engineers don't know squat about working metal by hand and that they all use CNC (computer numeric control) machines. Good thing I'm learning a bit, then :hihihi:

So, here we go with the knob manufacturing process:

1) It all starts with the raw material: a 3/4" stainless steel round bar.

2) In this step, we're making the little end in the back. Since stainless steel is hard, we work in little steps to take off a bit of material with every pass.

3) Now, we drill the hole where the PVC will go. Of course, you have to use coolant to keep the metals from deforming.

4) He inserts the PVC tube. We use this because it makes it easier to insert in the head unit as opposed to just steel. It makes it easier to install and to remove as well.

5) We then make the final hole with the correct drill and file it down so that it's nice and smooth

6) Now, we make the cone and the straight bit at the front. Notice how the tool (to the left) is angled to facilitate this.

7) Here it is with the finished shape. Slight cone with straight bit at the front

8) This is an overall area shot. Notice the little ridge being made where the cone meets the straight bit. You can see my father's hand in the background operating the knobs that move the tools.

9) In here, he's making the final indentation to cut the knob off the material.

10) Before the knob is cut off, it is sanded down so that it has a nice and shiny finish

11) Once it's cut off, it is turned around to finish the front of the knob. You can see the tool doing its work.

12) He sands the front down...

13) And it's finished! It takes about 15 minutes or so to make one knob.

14) Here is the knob in all its solitude... awaiting installation in a head unit.

And now, the gauge rings! I'll start with a picture of the finished, installed product:

1) We start with a raw piece of aluminum: a 5" round bar.

2) What's being done here is simple: It is being machined so that we can then flip it and the machine can grasp it perfectly centered and it doesn't wobble about.

3) We start to make the opening for the larger ring (speedometer and tachometer). Notice that we're leaving raw material in the center because we'll use that later to make the smaller rings (fuel level and water temperature gauges).

4) Gotta keep things cool... Fortunately, aluminum cools down pretty quickly.

5) You can start to see the shape of the ring here. In this picture, the front angle is being cut. 15 degrees doesnt sound like much, but it's a nice touch.

6) The inside bit is being cut here. More specifically, the part that will snap into the bezel.

7) the whole piece is then removed to mark where the dimples will go. The blue that you see is just a liquid that dries and makes any drawings or markings easier to see. I made a drawing with the computer and then we used a pair of compasses to mark them. Afer that's done, we bring it over to the mill drill. When the first one is complete,we put a "stop" on the drill bit so that we don't make the other ones any deeper and they all come out nice and equal.

8) The piece is then brought back to the lathe for finishing touches. In this pic, it's being sanded for a nicer finish. Ultimately, I'll sand and polish more by hand. I couldve done this while the piece was in the lathe, but I didn't want to spend all day at the shop :deal: After that, you can just cut it off and it is done!

Now that the bigger rings are done, we can move on to the smaller ones!

1) We cut some of the material so that we can make 2 rings from the same "tube." In this picture, we're seeing the inside diameter being cut.

2) Here it is ready to be detailed, but not before cooling it down!

3) Here is the front angle being cut

4) Since fabrication process is about the same as the bigger rings but on a smaller scale, I'm skipping some of the picture steps. Here,you can see the inside of the ring being cut so that it fits nice and snug into the bezel.

5) Some more measuring to make sure it is good, and then it's done!

So yup! The rings take about 30 minutes each (both large and small). Measurements are constantly taken so make sure they all fit right. I brought my bezel for test fitting and now they are perfect. Now I just have to do the finishing touches like sanding down with very fine sandpaper, apply some polish, and install!

And for the fellow photo geeks, I used my trusty 40D with the Sigma 105mm macro lens mounted on a tripod. No flash was used, but long exposures were. I think the settings were half a second at 9.0 and 100 ISO. Oh, and used the Canon 10-22 wide angle zoom lens for the intro pic.

URGENT::Anyone Live Close to Marietta GA?

bmwm5lover — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:46:15 GMT

If you would be willing to help me out I would greatly appreciate it. There is a M5 in Meriatta Georgia, that I would like someone to just take a glance at, maybe drive it, take some better shots of.

If you can and are willing to help me out, please PM me and I will send the details. Thank you. I can compensate if you desire.

Gearbox vibration problem

arotished — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:15:27 GMT

Hi all

I have a problem with vibration in the shifter in 3rd and 4th gear and when I accelerate the vibration increase. 1st,2nd,5th and 6th gear are vibration free. I have heard that if could be a "muffer" problem. That "muffer" sits parallel with 3rd and 4th gear (one on 1st and 2nd and one on 5th and 6th gear) so that would explain why I'm having this vibration on only 3rd and 4th gear.

Any wisdom word to share?

Andr�

High fuel consumption - running out etc, 02?

IM0LA — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:07:22 GMT

So I have noticed over the last few weeks that my fuel consumption has gone up considerably with no change in driving style, ~18mpg down to about 10. Ive actually been trying to drive economically!

The other day the car spluttered to a halt while still displaying 'RANGE: 17 MILES'. Being a M5 geek, I immediately plugged in my code reader, and got 'fuel system cyl 1,2,3,4', 'fuel system cyl 5,6,7,8' and 'misfire on empty tank'. So probably an empty tank....

Have also noticed other things such as the inside of tailpipes having a fair build-up of black deposits.
Also a friend recently walked out of a car park, after I had just started from cold and left. He commented that the air was thick with the smell and almost taste of petrol!

All these point to the car drinking too much, either running rich or just sending lots thru without using it. Im guessing 02 sensors? Pre-cat?

Cheers...

Imola Red with Red Brembo Pictures?

churious — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:22:34 GMT

Anyone have pictures of an Imola Red M5 with the Red Brembos installed? I just bought that set of front Red Brembos and Im wondering how it will look with my OEM wheels. Did a few searches but cant come up with anything.:flag:

Sad Day - Unable to take Delivery of my M5

rvt1000 — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:27:14 GMT

So I ws suppose to fly out to CA yesterday to take delivery of my car which I have been waiting anxiously for the past week, after I test drove it 2 weeks prior, but due to other prior commitments was not able to fly out until this week. He called me up yesterday and told me not to flay down as the car was not 100% ready.

When I was test driving it 2 weeks ago I mentioned to the dealer and he also noticed that the car was a bit hesitant in responding. in the sense what the board may call as "Limp mode". What was happening was with the gas pressed or held at a certain spot (did not matter which spot) the car seemed like it was loosing power, suddenly if you tap the pedal or give more gas it would shoot out, as if it was over compensating for the previous loss. The dealer mentioned he could fell it and could also see the engine light come on, so he was going to fix it. The car otherwise is working perfect.

When I called him up two days ago. he mentioned that the o2 sensors have been changed (that is the code that was being thrown out), and it is still doing the same. He has also changed the Temp sensor, and was also looking at the Fuel filter. All of the above work is being done at another indy dealership that deals with high end vehicles now, seperate from my dealer. The MAF's checked out fine he said, and they are going to look into to it much deeper on Monday. Seems like it is a very small issue but it is just taking time narrowing it down.

With this being said he did not want me to fly out to pick it up and waste my air travel . He is a 100 % stand up guy so I'm not worried about that. I actually beleive he is going to loose money on this deal because of this problem and the cost he is paying the dealership to fix the issue. But he will not sell me the car in the current condition. The one thing I have going is that the car will be overlooked completely and parts will be changed for free before I take possession - Good piece of mind. So I guess I will pick it up in another week or so. :crying2:

Any insights ?

How do you remove T-Stat from housing?

czarmar — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 23:28:46 GMT

So I got the housing off, and the whole tstat seems to be glued into the housing. Is there some quick way of popping this out?

mk2 navi to mk4 question

m5_abe — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 21:15:19 GMT

hey hows it going everyone, i just bought the 16.9 navi screen for my 2000 m5, i have the old screen in it and the privious owner that i bout the car offf said that i have a mk3 computer... dose that mean that i dont need anything eles but the screen to work on my car?

Aggravating throttle response

BR 549 — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 19:17:12 GMT

My problem is hesitation or better described, throttle response. When I tap the accelerator pedal there is a definite delay in revving. Compared to my wifes 06 330, its a very noticeable delay. It has performed this way since I have had it. I purchased it in March 08 with 37k miles. It now has 82k miles. It does run strong. I just feel there is something lacking. In other words its not as quick as it should be when comparing with what other people say abt their M5's.
MAF's are new. Plugs, fuel filter, pre cat O2, air filters, were replaced at 50k miles. All of those were replaced as preventative maint. No codes. I live at 8000 feet elevation and thought that may be a contributing factor. Just spent 3 weeks at the coast and the delay was still there. Of course there was much more power due to the increased O2 at sea level. To compare, my wifes 330 still is way more responsive even at sea level.
I am out of ideas other than just beginning to replace parts such as all 4 cps and the plugs again.
Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Sam

2000 cold weather oil

bmwperson — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:44:38 GMT

Hey folk,

Winter is coming to chicago soon, I am curious what you guys use for winter(sub 0C) temperatures. The bmw recommendation is 10w60 TWS which I have in there now, but I have been debating changing it to something a bit thiner?

Any recommendations?

PS I searched

Tom

Bad Cats on 2003 M5

getbent — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:01:05 GMT

Dealer is telling me I have a SES light because both cats are bad. Car only has 51k miles on it and they are saying they will not cover under the emissions warranty because I have the supersprint cat back exhaust w/ x-pipe. They want $6,100 to replace both which is outrageous. Anybody dealt with this before and any advice:

1. I asked if the fact that the car has burned 1 quart of oil every 750-1000 miles since birth could have fouled the cats. They said no.

2. I asked why they would cover the cats if they had installed the dinan system, which is essentially the same thing. No response.

3. I told them I didn't think that the cat back exhaust had a single thing to do w/ the cats failing and that they have equal number of them fail on cars w/o modified exhaust.

Anybody have any suggesstions on how to proceed/ what I can do?

Thanks in advance.

Battery trouble?

TMcNasty — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:03:02 GMT

Ok here's the deal.

About two weeks ago my Passport Escort 8500 started giving me random false laser alerts in the M5. I did some research online and found out the main cause of this is usually one of two things. Either the unit could have an internal issue (loose shield or degraded capacitor in this case) or the automobile in use can be producing some type of interference (thru the wiring itself or thru the air) that can be triggering the unit.

Well I busted it open to check inside. Laser shield is tight as a drum and the capacitor looks ok (no leaks or bulges). Thing is the unit doesn't always false even in the M5. When it decides to false it seems to be more likely at the beginning of the drive or right after starting.

Also I used it a couple days this week in my commuter Sentra (1994 LE...don't hate) and it never did this. So for laughs I took the M into work Thursday and it never falsed even at startup. One thing I did this time was I got in the car and closed the door and turned on the unit before starting the car and there it was. The unit was displaying 11.6v to me. :byee55amg (This detector has a few settings you can tweak incl. being able to have the unit display voltage by default.)

Once I started the car that display quickly goes into the 13.6 area so I know the alternator is working. No problems starting the car and no warning lights on the cluster ever. The car had been driven the day before as well so the 11.6v wasn't after like weeks of sitting or anything. No signs of any FSU issues either.

So I'm figuring the falsing could be being triggered by this weakened battery condition. Sound reasonable?

And I'm also figuring that ever seeing 11.6v means I have a weak battery that should just be replaced? Car is an April '03 build (90k) with what looks to be the OEM battery.

I didn't bust out the voltmeter or anything yet because I just pieced this all together.

Suggestions? Remove/replace? Take in to AutoZone for a load test? Totally disconnect battery for 1-2 days and then check voltage to rule out FSU etc?

I'm assuming 12.6v is the standard sitting voltage for a fully functional battery right?

Wheels: mesh style vs. 5 spoke

Copasetic222 — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:11:51 GMT

I'm anxiously awaiting a low mileage, pristine carbon black / black 2000 Dinan S2 M5 I have bought but haven't taken delivery of yet. Although it comes with two sets of BMW OEM wheels, I want to pick up a set of higher end aftermarket wheels over the winter. I probably need to stay with 18's because of the terrible roads and huge pot holes where I live.
I have used the search feature on this wonderful forum and looked at hundreds of pictures of e39 M5's. Mesh style wheels appear to be way more popular now than 5 spokes.
I'd like to get some input as to why that is. How about a philosophical discussion about the different looks and, in everyone's individual opinion, which look is strongest on these beasts? Thanks in advance.

Miss Diagnosis help?

czarmar — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 07:46:56 GMT

Hey guys, here's my symptoms:

It sounds that I'm running on 7 cylinders all the time, yet I seem to have plenty of power. When I pop the hood, I have some VANOS noise that I'm wondering if it could be resonating in some weird way to seem like a miss inside the cabin. The power seems great, although not smooth, and I have no references for what this car should be like.

I have no codes on a Peake scanner. Right now I have a thermostat issue which I plan to tackle tomorrow(not throwing any codes, but temp. is low, around 74 degrees freeway cruising), although I don't think this would have much to do with a miss that seems there all the time, cold/hot(lukewarm), light/heavy/no throttle/compression braking, and any engine speed. I've recently replaced: Oil with TWS, precat o2s, fuel filter, new OEM sparkplugs and one exhaust CPS. The sound seems to be more prominent inside the car than outside the car *almost* like an exhaust leak. Not much noise below car, just the top end VANOS noise. I pulled the exhaust and found only two of the 4 stock headers use gaskets, or at least it seems. Have you heard of exhaust leaks at the cylinder head/header area?

When I did the sparkplugs I was concerned about possibly a dead cylinder. So I pull the coil harnesses one at a time and all cylinders appeared to be firing, at least at idle. I did a compression check and all cylinders were 210 +/- 5 psi.

So, here's my possibilities:

1.) There is no problem, I'm just used to smooth inline sixes
2.) Mechanical resonances from the VANOS is sounding like a miss
3.) Mechanical resonances from bad hydraulic lifters are sounding like a miss
4.) Timing chain slap, although this sound seems uniform throughout the rev band regardless
5.) Rod bearing clearances
6.) exhaust leak somewhere
7.) VANOS/CPS is failing without throwing any codes
8.) Coil/injector is partially failing without throwing any codes

Maybe someone can relate to the symptoms I have or has some ideas for me to try. If there's anyone local in the Seattle area that can take a look at what I've got, or if I could hear how their engine runs, I'd feel a lot better. I have this video at idle from under the hood, getting one on the road is a little harder.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.