And I cant stop grinning! For anyone on the fence, with a total cost of, less then $800, I can honestly say its the best money I've spent on a car mod. It is not ungodly loud and has a nice tone to it. Summit has everything you need to install and a good exhaust shop will have it done in a few hours. I also had them move my mufflers back a little over an inch so my stock tips extend past the Vorsteiner diffuser.
I listened to all the exhaust systems I could find on youtube and various message boards, and thought I was pretty convinced to go with the Tubi Rumore, which sounds great, but I thought a little quiet. I was a little hesitant to remove the secondary cats or even gut them in case I have a more conservative buyer one day, or in case emissions laws get more strict. These cutouts seemed like a great option and I couldn't be happier.
As far as wiring and installation, I wired everything in the trunk and attached the power/ground wires to available studs in and around the fuse box/battery. I had to extend the provided wiring and add large ring terminals, but no big deal. I wanted to pass the wires through a factory opening, but the only accessible ones would put the wires in a vulnerable spot on the bottom of the truck and I didn't like that idea. I ended up drilling a 3/4" hole on the right side, forward part of the trunk. 3/4" is the smallest hole that the QTP wiring will fit through. I have a plastic plug that will fit the hole, and I will coat both sides with sealer. I'm sure you can find a wiring grommet at Pep Boys or West Marine that will fit, too. It can be a little tricky to get the wiring to the needed areas above the rear control arms, especially when working while on jack stands, but it can be done. Just be sure to use wire ties and keep the wires from touching exhaust or moving suspension parts. I had them end where the E-brake cables pass over the large open area of the control arms. I left some slack tied there so they would hook up easily to the actuators. Test the entire system before installing. I found a bad wire connection in one of the supplied cables. Only took a few seconds to fix while on a workbench, but would have been a nightmare if it was under the car.
The other installation quirk is the suspension has these 2 bars, roughly 18" long that are bolted to the bottom of the car. They had to be removed to install these cutouts. I am going to see if I can either modify them, or have some replacements made, bent differently, to put back on. It looks like many of the M5 guys don't bother putting them back on, so maybe they are not necessary unless you are doing 180 on the Autobahn! hiha
When I get a chance, I will take a bunch of pictures and maybe some videos showing the whole system.
I listened to all the exhaust systems I could find on youtube and various message boards, and thought I was pretty convinced to go with the Tubi Rumore, which sounds great, but I thought a little quiet. I was a little hesitant to remove the secondary cats or even gut them in case I have a more conservative buyer one day, or in case emissions laws get more strict. These cutouts seemed like a great option and I couldn't be happier.
As far as wiring and installation, I wired everything in the trunk and attached the power/ground wires to available studs in and around the fuse box/battery. I had to extend the provided wiring and add large ring terminals, but no big deal. I wanted to pass the wires through a factory opening, but the only accessible ones would put the wires in a vulnerable spot on the bottom of the truck and I didn't like that idea. I ended up drilling a 3/4" hole on the right side, forward part of the trunk. 3/4" is the smallest hole that the QTP wiring will fit through. I have a plastic plug that will fit the hole, and I will coat both sides with sealer. I'm sure you can find a wiring grommet at Pep Boys or West Marine that will fit, too. It can be a little tricky to get the wiring to the needed areas above the rear control arms, especially when working while on jack stands, but it can be done. Just be sure to use wire ties and keep the wires from touching exhaust or moving suspension parts. I had them end where the E-brake cables pass over the large open area of the control arms. I left some slack tied there so they would hook up easily to the actuators. Test the entire system before installing. I found a bad wire connection in one of the supplied cables. Only took a few seconds to fix while on a workbench, but would have been a nightmare if it was under the car.
The other installation quirk is the suspension has these 2 bars, roughly 18" long that are bolted to the bottom of the car. They had to be removed to install these cutouts. I am going to see if I can either modify them, or have some replacements made, bent differently, to put back on. It looks like many of the M5 guys don't bother putting them back on, so maybe they are not necessary unless you are doing 180 on the Autobahn! hiha
When I get a chance, I will take a bunch of pictures and maybe some videos showing the whole system.