So no aftermarket ECU tune is needed if the nozzles are ported to the plenum after the MAF? I understand that the ecu needs to be tuned if doing a Pre-Maf with the dry system, correct?
I really need to start looking for a installer with knowledge on BMWs and tuning.
Perfect diagram Rocket! That should help folks understand the schematics of it all. Here's the system I purchased 2 weeks ago for my 67 Chevelle SS with the 427 Big Block & Dominator Carb. 8 nozzles and 8 solenoids so it'll be a challenge to plumb but will definitely look cool when it's finished. I won't need the 1200 HP shot it's capable of but it's good to know it's there if I want to up the jetting from the 300 shot I'm starting with.
Hmmm...2 more nozzles, decrease the compression in the S85, a few other adjustments...maybe a 300+HP shot wouldn't be out of the question!
I like those nitrous/fuel rails. I used those exact same ones, same solenoids, etc to build a custom direct port system for a Mustang a few years back. I believe I posted a picture or two of the system earlier in this thread. That is some good quality hardware. So what are the first and second stage shot sizes going to be? You planning to run either of the stages off of RPM pill and TP or opting for full progressive?
__________________ -Robert-
2003 4.6 XLT Black Explorer,Built, blown, ported, cammed, and on and on...
2009 Pontiac G8 GT Stryker Blue, 402ci Stroker, Twin Turbo's, 230/240 Turbocam, Circle D Built 6L80E, Circle D 3000 Stall, and a few other things...
So no aftermarket ECU tune is needed if the nozzles are ported to the plenum after the MAF? I understand that the ecu needs to be tuned if doing a Pre-Maf with the dry system, correct?
I really need to start looking for a installer with knowledge on BMWs and tuning.
If you are using a WET nitrous system then you are correct as long as the current aftermarket ECU tune you are running isn't super aggressive with spark timing advance. A call to your tuner will verify this as long as they aren't a prick who doesn't want to tell their customers the basics of what's going on in their own tune. If you are running a totally factory stock ECU tune then you should be fine, probably up to a 150 shot, when it comes to spark timing advance and of course running anything but premium fuel is never an option.
You don't need to find an installer with BMW specific knowledge to do your nitrous system. Installing a wet nitrous system on a BMW is the same as installing one onto a Ford, GM, or Toyota. You still have to find a throttle position sensor 0-5volt or 5-0volt rising/falling reference, an RPM reference, a good chassis grounding point, and an ignition switched 12volt power source. Obviously those are in different locations on different cars but any installer who is skilled in DC circuitry and has a multimeter will be able to perform the install of a system onto your BMW without much issue. My suggestion for you when picking an installer would be to go for someone who has a good record for performing technically sound nitrous installs and who also pays close enough attention to detail to make the install real clean.
I looked around for you a bit. I found a Nitrous Express dealer who is located in Langley, BC not too far away from you. They may be able to do the install themselves or probably at the very least know someone close by who can do a good install. It would be a good start at least.
Chief Chassis Inc.
8618-217 A Street
Langley, BC. V1M3S7 CA
I like those nitrous/fuel rails. I used those exact same ones, same solenoids, etc to build a custom direct port system for a Mustang a few years back. I believe I posted a picture or two of the system earlier in this thread. That is some good quality hardware. So what are the first and second stage shot sizes going to be? You planning to run either of the stages off of RPM pill and TP or opting for full progressive?
What kind of motor did this mustang have??? What size shot did you guys go with? I see that it was an Edelbrock Victor Jr intake. I'm running the Super Victor so it's a little different of a design. My nozzles are 4-port nozzles also with one solenoid per nozzle. I haven't decided yet how I'll run it as it'll depend on traction and how it hooks up. I'm sitting at about 750 HP without the shot and my H-Beam rods are rated to 1000 HP so that'll be my limiting factor. Running a a full set of titanium valves and rev kit so it'll turn some good RPM's for a big block. 13:1 compression (nitrous specific rings) with a solid roller cam but with the E85 and how cool it runs I'll have fewer issues with detonation. I'm running the MSD Digital 6-Plus ignition control that has a retard for nitrous too so it'll take some tuning to get it where I can take full advantage of the system. If she blows, she blows but it'll be fun no matter what happens. Should be fun to play with and I'll get some pics when I get it all installed. Should look cool with the green metering plates and other green parts of the E85 Dominator along with all the lines and plumbing for the 4 port nozzles.
Just got an email with a link to a form where you can get a free purge system with the purchase of a kit like the one mentioned above. $135 cost otherwise if you wanted to use a purge system. http://www.nitrousexpress.com/2012FreePurgeForm.pdf
__________________
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming: "WOW! WHAT A RIDE!!"
What kind of motor did this mustang have??? What size shot did you guys go with? I see that it was an Edelbrock Victor Jr intake. I'm running the Super Victor so it's a little different of a design. My nozzles are 4-port nozzles also with one solenoid per nozzle. I haven't decided yet how I'll run it as it'll depend on traction and how it hooks up. I'm sitting at about 750 HP without the shot and my H-Beam rods are rated to 1000 HP so that'll be my limiting factor. Running a a full set of titanium valves and rev kit so it'll turn some good RPM's for a big block. 13:1 compression (nitrous specific rings) with a solid roller cam but with the E85 and how cool it runs I'll have fewer issues with detonation. I'm running the MSD Digital 6-Plus ignition control that has a retard for nitrous too so it'll take some tuning to get it where I can take full advantage of the system. If she blows, she blows but it'll be fun no matter what happens. Should be fun to play with and I'll get some pics when I get it all installed. Should look cool with the green metering plates and other green parts of the E85 Dominator along with all the lines and plumbing for the 4 port nozzles.
Just got an email with a link to a form where you can get a free purge system with the purchase of a kit like the one mentioned above. $135 cost otherwise if you wanted to use a purge system. http://www.nitrousexpress.com/2012FreePurgeForm.pdf
The Mustang has a fully built 4.6 modular V8. I went with a 200 to start with but the kit is built to provide 400. I don't know what size shot the owner is running now. Those parts you have coming are overkill 5 times over for what your connecting rods will take. Do you plan on upgrading the rotating assembly for something considerably stronger soon? That kit you have pictured will be able to support a 1000+ shot through two stages no problem.
Just a recommendation, but you may want to run a larger bottle than a 15lb. A 15 pounder isn't exactly small but it sure does get small when you are spraying a 300+ shot from it. Even on that Mustang while only running a 200 shot his 20lb bottle went quicker than expected. Do you plan on assisting it with a NANO?
The system is at home now waiting for me to plumb the intake and I wish I could be there now to do it! Right now I'm running the 427 for the "nostalgia" of it as I've always wanted a 427 in my Chevelle even though it came stock with a 396. My heads/intake/carb will easily support a 600+ c.i. motor and I'll start accumulating parts for that short block next year. All I'll need is the block & rotating assembly and I have access to free machine work since my dad builds engines. He's semi-retired now but always willing to help out so that's cool. It's fun building these motors from scratch and making sure all the parts are correct for your application. There's lots of satisfaction driving a car that you yourself built that motor for. From balancing the assembly, to fitting the rings to the cylinders, to putting it all together and tuning it is a blast.
So that's my goal, to build a motor that can take the entire 1200 HP nitrous shot. Could easily be a 2000+ HP motor when I'm done so it'll definitely have to be a bullet-proof bottom end. My differential is a Moser S-60 with 41 spline axles and Detroit locker & will easily take the 2000 HP. The only other thing I'll have to upgrade is the trans as the TKO-600 5-Speed isn't rated for that much torque. Will probably have to go with a Turbo 400 AT but I'll look into a Lenco possibly.
I was thinking I would do a dry system as ASR was doing it because I already have their exhaust, intake and a tune and the intakes have holes for the nozzle insertion. I am thinking this is a safe and easier way. Would you recommend this dry method or is that just a waste if I am going to do NOS? I am just wondering why ASR never did a wet method and dry and I hear that all their NOS customers are quite happy with their setups.
Where on the intakes are the nozzles set up to be placed? Before or after the MAF's? Sounds like a marketing scheme where they tune your car but then try to talk you into ONLY their NOS installation where they can OVERCHAGE you. You don't HAVE to use the nozzles where they have made their intake to accept them. You can run the wet system and insert your nozzles after MAF's anywhere you want keeping ASR & their overcharging ways out of the picture completely. If your ASR intake is set up to accept the nozzles after the MAF's, you're even better off and still don't need ASR to rip you off. All you would have to do is ask ASR if their tune involves advancing the timing as Rocket had mentioned. If not, you're set to go with a wet system. If they have, it would just be a matter of them removing the advance part of the tune. Don't let them rip you off Killbugs! You seem like too nice of a guy for them to take advantage of you!
Where on the intakes are the nozzles set up to be placed? Before or after the MAF's? Sounds like a marketing scheme where they tune your car but then try to talk you into ONLY their NOS installation where they can OVERCHAGE you. You don't HAVE to use the nozzles where they have made their intake to accept them. You can run the wet system and insert your nozzles after MAF's anywhere you want keeping ASR & their overcharging ways out of the picture completely. If your ASR intake is set up to accept the nozzles after the MAF's, you're even better off and still don't need ASR to rip you off. All you would have to do is ask ASR if their tune involves advancing the timing as Rocket had mentioned. If not, you're set to go with a wet system. If they have, it would just be a matter of them removing the advance part of the tune. Don't let them rip you off Killbugs! You seem like too nice of a guy for them to take advantage of you!
I am def not going to them, lol. I will be finding a installer and getting a ECU from AA that tuned the ASR cars. I just rather replicate their setup as I have their intake and their design does work. I have kept all their products cause they are good and I can't complain...just shitty what happened to other members. The holes are placed well before the MAF. Their cones are placed behind the grill and then the tubing goes to the plenum and half way between the intake filters and the plenum the holes are there. I don't know if that makes sense but check out their CAI//
The system is at home now waiting for me to plumb the intake and I wish I could be there now to do it! Right now I'm running the 427 for the "nostalgia" of it as I've always wanted a 427 in my Chevelle even though it came stock with a 396. My heads/intake/carb will easily support a 600+ c.i. motor and I'll start accumulating parts for that short block next year. All I'll need is the block & rotating assembly and I have access to free machine work since my dad builds engines. He's semi-retired now but always willing to help out so that's cool. It's fun building these motors from scratch and making sure all the parts are correct for your application. There's lots of satisfaction driving a car that you yourself built that motor for. From balancing the assembly, to fitting the rings to the cylinders, to putting it all together and tuning it is a blast.
So that's my goal, to build a motor that can take the entire 1200 HP nitrous shot. Could easily be a 2000+ HP motor when I'm done so it'll definitely have to be a bullet-proof bottom end. My differential is a Moser S-60 with 41 spline axles and Detroit locker & will easily take the 2000 HP. The only other thing I'll have to upgrade is the trans as the TKO-600 5-Speed isn't rated for that much torque. Will probably have to go with a Turbo 400 AT but I'll look into a Lenco possibly.
It sounds like you and I subscribe to very similar trains of thought. I just cannot feel pride in a fast car that I didn't build with my own hands.
Do you know what nitrous controller you are going to go with yet? There are some nice and inexpensive ones out there now! I use an FJO Racing unit that can control 2 separate stages progressively (time or RPM based), or non-progressive too. About the best unit I have found out there for $200.
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