...Changing the KALTUEBERWACHUNG (Cold Monitoring) from aktiv to nicht_aktiv, tells the module NOT to cold check the bulb. So, no more resistors when you add LED's. I deactivated the Cold Testing of the side directional lighting, and since that was the only LED I did not use a resistor with, it does not blink for the first few seconds as it used to. I left the WARMUERBERWACHUNG setting as aktiv, to alert me if it actually burns out. I'm using the largest Amber LED I could find that physically fit in the housing. It's a 9 LED amber....
Does this also mean that if we install LED turn signals we won't need the resistor pack either? If so that is awesome- and a huge $$ savings! Thanks again for all the effort you've put into this!
Evolve ECU Tune, Tubi Rumore exhaust, BBS RGR rims; Polk Audio Tweeters, 5500K Osram Cool Blue HID,Valentine 1 Radar Detector; Laser Interceptor Laser Jammer; All LED interior lights, LED footwell lights, LED trunk lights, Ultimate Cup Holders, 3rd brake light LED flasher, ash tray delete; LED license plate lights; RPI Ram Air Scoops + Block off plates; BMC Air Filters.......
The LMA module (Lighting Module), has the option to disable both cold and hot monitoring of all bulbs it seems. So logically no more resistors, to answer the previous questions. I have my front LCI LED resistors behind the front bumper (which I am not about to take off yet again to remove resistors), and the 'Sean adapters' on my rear LCI LED turns. The worst case is, you disable the cold monitoring on the front and/or rear turns, and if a bulb out error appears (without using resistors of course), you disable the hot monitoring. That should guarantee no bulb out message, but of course you have to check the lighting periodically like in the old days, to make sure the bulbs are still lighting.
Here is an extract of the lines of code in the LMA module for all the turn signals.
KALTERUEBERWACHUNG = Cold Monitoring
BLK = Blinkers (turn signals)
V = Front
BLK V 2 = Front
L = Left
R = Right
A few lines of code from the LMA module before modification:
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_L (side turns)
aktiv (change to nicht_aktiv)
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_V_R (side turns)
aktiv (change to nicht_aktiv)
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_L (rear turns)
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_H_R (rear turns)
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_2_VL (front turns)
KALTUEBERWACHUNG_BLK_2_VR (front turns)
If you look closely at the Word.doc in post #70, you can see all the bulb options. I am putting a cheat sheet of the abbreviations together. I'm trying not to overwhelm with information until your cables arrive, then I can provide shortcuts and tips
I noticed an option for bulb BFD and the word flash. I think we can change the option of our brake lights to flash regardless of brake pedal pressure and/or car speed to stop.
Here's a short reference
SL = Parking Lights
AL = Low Beams/Cornering Lights
BL = Brake Light
BLK = Turn Signals
FL = High Beams
KZL = Lic. Plate Lamps
NSW = Rear Fog lamps (assuming you've enabled them; previous DYI)
RL = Reverse Lights
BFD = Brake Force Display
AL = DRL's
There is an option, (and I've read about success doing this); that you can program Welcome Lights, so when you unlock the vehicle any lights you wish will come on.
I'm trying to figure out the settings 'Wert 1,2.3.4'. Wert is 'setting", but I'm not sure what each number change does in each line of code...yet. There's also levels of various lighting; low, medium, high; timing of lights off; hibernation time; etc.
There's a program floating around called NCS Dummy ver 4.xx beta. The writer has all the options that are able to be set if you browse for the module file you have previously read. No car connection is required for this; and some translations are next to a modules file. It doesn't have the E60-63-64, and only shows translations we already know. aktiv = active, and nicht_aktiv = not active.
The one tip that I will recommend again and again. When you get the SW and the cable working,
- The first action is to read all the module and save them with different names so you have a backup of the settings as they are of that moment. It's also a good way to practice before you actually write anything to the car.
- I saved each of mine in the NCS Work>Backup folder with names like FSW_PSW original CAPPL module.TRC. If you need it, you rename it as FSW_PSW.TRC and move it to the work folder for writing. Only one FSW_PSW.TRC file can be in the work folder at any time.
Thank you very much for all of your hard work. I'm very much a DYI type person. I don't have an amazing M6, but would like to know if the interface itself is good for working with a 650i. I was also curious if it is possible to use the interface cable and other software for other types of coding for the car. For example. I am currently having the Crankcase sensor replaced in my car. The part is only $80.00 yet the "coding" of the sensor to the car costs a significant amount, Price quoted was around 700+ to replace the sensor. The physical labor is not significant, but the code was. Would I be able to use this cable and possibly some other software to do that coding on my own? I am a computer geek, I'm quite familiar with software development, java, c++, hardware systems, automation for industrial facilities, so it is up my alley, I’m no professional hacker though, grin. I'm new to the BMW 6 series though. My last BMW was a 525 E34. I would like to explore of the programmability of the I-Drive and the features as well. Thank you again for everything on this post. This is a huge jump start for me. I saw the post and thought. WOW SCORE!!!fficeffice" />