Clutch wear on m6 - Page 3

HowardMW · 29th December 2008, 05:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by waleed_wales

when my clutch was gone few months ago,, the dealer told me that the clutch is not coered by the warranty as it is consumable item like brake pads and disks. they did replace the flywheel under the warranty but they made me pay for the clutch. i used LC twice after the replacment and i hope this time the cluch will last a bit longer

What that dealer told you is not right, or at least would not be right in the US. The US warranty covers consumables:

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/HMW/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG] BMW Ultimate Service™

I would check the warranty terms in Dubai, and go back to that dealer if consumables are in fact covered. I would take the position in either case that a clutch should last more than how ever many miles you had at that time, and make a stink unless they pay you back. Perhaps corporate can assist you if the dealer will not. Just IMHO.

HowardMW · 29th December 2008, 05:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by waleed_wales

when my clutch was gone few months ago,, the dealer told me that the clutch is not coered by the warranty as it is consumable item like brake pads and disks. they did replace the flywheel under the warranty but they made me pay for the clutch. i used LC twice after the replacment and i hope this time the cluch will last a bit longer

What that dealer told you is not right, or at least would not be right in the US. The US warranty covers consumables:

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/HMW/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG] BMW Ultimate Service™

I would check the warranty terms in Dubai, and go back to that dealer if consumables are in fact covered. I would take the position in either case that a clutch should last more than how ever many miles you had at that time, and make a stink unless they pay you back. Perhaps corporate can assist you if the dealer will not. Just IMHO.

waleed_wales · 29th December 2008, 08:53

HowardMW overhere in Emirates things are a bit different. The vehicle is covered by a two years warranty plus 5 years service contract, which usually cover everything part from tyres. well, this is with all BMW vehicles with a an exception of M cars, as you cannot get a service contract as what the dealer says they cost them hell lot of money which is not fair at all. well when they told me that i have to pay for a replacment clutch, i argued alot with the guys there and later on i got a call from BMWs regional office in UAE and told me that BMW will pay for the flywheel and other parts. i got to go back to the dealer now for disks and pads, which i know that this time BMW wont be there to offer me free parts

M9 · 29th December 2008, 11:36

Yeah tbh, had to pay for the clutch in my M3 the warranty did not cover it, cost me one and a half thousabd pounds, mostly because of the ridicilous labour costs in UK, should have gone to China to get it done for a fiver ))) What my dealer says is depending on the reason for the change the clutch can sometimes be covered and sometimes not. Say it has worn too early then it is covered, but if it is due to nornal wear and tear you have to pay. The dealer determines the above through diagnostics etc.

Waleed I feel ur pain, my M6 stalled when I was about to destroy a WRX STi, so embaracing )

Itso did you get ur car back? Let us know of the result.

waleed_wales · 29th December 2008, 16:22

the ODO was reading 27k KM (17K Miles) when the clutch decided to retire. Let me tell you exactly what happened when my car was towed to the dealer.

that night i was driving my car normally and then at a traffic light decided to push just a bit hard on the paddle. settings were P400, soft, traction on and seq. mode so i let the car go and shifted at like 7k then i noticed a weird sound from underneath then at the second shift there was a proper bang from the tranny ( it sounded further behind toward the diff.) and the LED engaged gear indicator between RPM and SPEEDO was flashing i.e number 4 was flashing on and off then i knew that there was something wrong. i stopped the car and the most common sense is to turn the ignition off and on again so i did. put the car in gear again and still, no movment and the car will immediatly die. i called a friend who got M cars from M3 to Z8 and told me that the closest possibility is that the clutch was blown. he told me that shifting at high Revs while clutch stiffness (drivelogic) is set at 1 or 2 can cause the clutch to wear faster. dunno if this is true or not.

I went in there (dealer) and the girl in reception told me to wait so she call "the German M expert" so when he arrived i told him exactly what happened the other day and he said he should have a look so he tried to move the car but no chances at all. I asked him why it didnt act like normal clutch wear in normal manual cars as u actually feel that the clutch is dying and our cars will just stop in the middle of the road in a very embaressing situation but i didnt have a clear answer from him and he keep telling me "dont believe what is written on m5board loool". so yeah this is how my clutch embarresed me infront of the public

M9 · 29th December 2008, 17:11

I have seen quite a few threads on this forum saying that driving in programs 1 and 2 eats up more of the clutch, however I have seen opposite claims.

From my experience the higher the program the larger the rev band used before shifting and the clutch is engaged quicker, so theoretically there is less wear on the clutch, however the clutch engagedment is more brutal, hence more wear is done in a shorter period of time. Driving in program 1 is the best for the clutch, since there are fewer shifts from start (u start in 2nd) and the shifts are not as brutal. In programs 5 and 6 the temperatures that are reached make the clutch melt like butter, while in programms 1 and 2 clutch does not become so hot and does not wear that much. What is for sure to be avoided for longer clutch life is crawling and start stop traffic.