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Old 22nd August 2006, 22:43   #1
jfenley
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E60 M5 - DIY Oil Change - Step-by-Step w/Pictures [pic links dead]

Some have posted oil change info in the past, but it I think most could use more detail in how to get it done. I decided to do an interim oil change last night at 9,000 miles. I think it was a good thing - the oil looked pretty dirty. Here is my take on getting it done.

Equipment you will need:

Jack - preferably a floor jack
Jack Stands
Torque Wrench - or socket wrench
6mm Allen Head Socket
24mm Socket
3" Socket Extension
Filter Kit - available from dealer for about $12.00
9 Litres of Castrol 10-60
Large Piece of Cardboard, or a Tarp
Oil Drain Pan (with capacity to hold 15 qts.)

STEP 1: Get the car jacked up. (if you have access to a lift, GREAT!! - your job will be a lot easier) For the rest of us, I'll leave it to you to figure out how to do this, but here is a little info on how I did it. There are 5 jack points that I know of. The first four are the corner points under the side skirts, just on the inside of each wheel. The points are very easy to find - they are marked by small arrows on the side skirts, or if you look under the car, you will see plastic rectangle pieces. The 5th point is under the front center of the car - a couple feet in from the front, in the center, there is a plastic block that is about 1.5" x 4". My problem with this point was that my floor jack wouldn't fit far enough under the car (due to H&R springs). If your car is not lowered, or if you have a lower-profile floor jack, I think this is the best point to use. I lifted the car, and put jack stands on the two front/side jack points. Make sure to put wheel stops behind the rear wheels. To get the front two jack stands in place, I first jacked the rear passenger side and put the first stand in place on the front passenger side. Then I jacked just in front of the jack point on the front driver's side and put the second stand in place at the front driver's side jack point. Jacking in front of the jack point didn't do any damage to the car.

Keep in mind I did this at night, so the pictures are not so great.




For reference, here is the front center jack point:




STEP 2: Place a tarp or some cardboard under the car where you will be working so you protect your driveway from oil spills.

STEP 3: Locate the oil drain plug. It is in the center of the car and there is a circular cutout in the undercarriage to access it - see picture below - there are some reference points so you can't miss it.





STEP 4: Using your socket wrench, attach a 6mm allen head socket and insert into drain plug. It takes some torque to losen, so the longer your wrench, the better. Turn it just enough to losen it and then put your drain pan in place. Remove the wrench from the socket and use your fingers to turn the socket to slowly remove the plug. Be careful towards the end, as the oil is about to come rushing out. Let the oil drain completely. Once the oil has drained, I lowered the car back to a level position and about another 1/2 litre came out. I would recommend doing this.

STEP 5: The drain plug has a small copper washer. Remove the old washer and replace it with the new one that came with the filter kit. Reinstall the drain plug and torque reasonably tight. I failed to get the torque figure from the dealer, but I'm sure one of you can come up with it - please post.

STEP 6: Remove the access panel under the front passenger side of the car. This is a small panel at the very front corner. There are four screws to remove (sorry, I'm not sure what size wrench - maybe 6 or 7mm). Remove the screws and remove the panel.




With this cover removed, it will reveal the oil filter housing:




STEP 7: Loosen the silver drain plug in the center of the filter cover with your 6mm allen socket. You will probably need an extension for this. Reposition your drain pan and carefully remove the plug and let the oil drain out.

STEP 8: Remove the gasket from the plug and replace with the new gasket included in the filter kit. Reinstall the plug.




STEP 9: Loosen the filter cover with a 24mm socket and remove the cover, slowly by hand. Be careful as there will still be a little oil in the cover. Remove the filter element by pulling gently.





STEP 10: Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean towel and install the new filter element by firmly pressing it into the housing - you will feel it click in.




STEP 11: Replace the gasket on the filter housing cover and reinstall the cover, then reinstall the access panel.




STEP 12: Remove oil pan and all tools from under the car. Leave the ground cover in place. Lower the car and fill with 9 litres of oil. Inspect under the car to make sure nothing is leaking. Take a drive and let the engine warm up to temperature and then take a quick reading of the oil level. If you drained all of the oil properly, you should come out with a new reading of 1.0L. (Mine was actually 1.1L).

Last edited by petesamprs; 27th May 2012 at 17:32.
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Old 22nd August 2006, 22:55   #2
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Excellent post yet again!

Couple of pointers:
1) if you have difficulty with a jacking point (like you did here with the central jacking point) - a common trick with lowered cars is to tuck a brick or small block of wood under each of the front tires and drive the car onto them. Often that will be enough to access the jacking point.
2) somehow disable the car from being started without oil being filled in the engine or it could be a very expensive repair. One step could be to take the keys out of the ignition and toss them in between the cans with new engine oil.
3) Another step is to check under the car for a massive oil puddle after filling up the oil and starting the car - e.g. to catch situations where the drain plug or filter isn't properly seated.
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Old 22nd August 2006, 23:29   #3
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jfenley your the man with the diy guides, you should have a show on tv called diy for the e60.kinda like tim allen in tool time..
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Old 22nd August 2006, 23:36   #4
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What direction is the oil filter opening facing?
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Old 22nd August 2006, 23:39   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTANertive
What direction is the oil filter opening facing?
It's in the front of the front passenger wheel at the very front corner of the car
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Old 22nd August 2006, 23:58   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfenley
It's in the front of the front passenger wheel at the very front corner of the car
I'll try to re-word my quetion so it's a little clearer. For the E46 M3, the opening for the oil filter is facing upwards so that when you install the filter, it is possible to add a quart or so of oil to reduce oil choke on the first startup. Is this possible for the M5 or is the opening sideways/upside-down so that it isn't possible?
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Old 23rd August 2006, 00:54   #7
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Gotta love these DIY writeups.
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Old 23rd August 2006, 01:08   #8
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Sorry - now I see what you are asking. It is facing up - you could add oil - that is a good idea. I didn't do it, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALTANertive
I'll try to re-word my quetion so it's a little clearer. For the E46 M3, the opening for the oil filter is facing upwards so that when you install the filter, it is possible to add a quart or so of oil to reduce oil choke on the first startup. Is this possible for the M5 or is the opening sideways/upside-down so that it isn't possible?
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Old 23rd August 2006, 04:07   #9
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I wonder how much a 10min Oil quick change place would charge if I supplied the filter kit and the oil? Haven't changed my own oil in 15 years!
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Old 23rd August 2006, 04:17   #10
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I haven't changed my own oil in over 15 years either. This wasn't so much a "do it to save money" project - it was more a "do it to figure out how to do it" project. I figure an oil change at the dealer would be around $200-$250. I spent about $600!!! ($325 for floor jack, jack stands, wheels stops - $125 for oil and filter - $125 for torque wrench and allen sockets - $25 for funnel and catch pan). Granted, my next oil change will cost oil and filter only because I now have the proper tools.

I wouldn't trust it to Jiffy Lube - even if you bring your own filter and oil. Best bet is the dealer - but I would definitely do it at intervals between the scheduled service - the oil was really dirty and my driving is moderate.

Last edited by jfenley; 23rd August 2006 at 04:20.
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