Some have posted oil change info in the past, but it I think most could use more detail in how to get it done. I decided to do an interim oil change last night at 9,000 miles. I think it was a good thing - the oil looked pretty dirty. Here is my take on getting it done.
Equipment you will need:
Jack - preferably a floor jack
Jack Stands
Torque Wrench - or socket wrench
6mm Allen Head Socket
24mm Socket
3" Socket Extension
Filter Kit - available from dealer for about $12.00
9 Litres of Castrol 10-60
Large Piece of Cardboard, or a Tarp
Oil Drain Pan (with capacity to hold 15 qts.)
STEP 1: Get the car jacked up. (if you have access to a lift, GREAT!! - your job will be a lot easier) For the rest of us, I'll leave it to you to figure out how to do this, but here is a little info on how I did it. There are 5 jack points that I know of. The first four are the corner points under the side skirts, just on the inside of each wheel. The points are very easy to find - they are marked by small arrows on the side skirts, or if you look under the car, you will see plastic rectangle pieces. The 5th point is under the front center of the car - a couple feet in from the front, in the center, there is a plastic block that is about 1.5" x 4". My problem with this point was that my floor jack wouldn't fit far enough under the car (due to H&R springs). If your car is not lowered, or if you have a lower-profile floor jack, I think this is the best point to use. I lifted the car, and put jack stands on the two front/side jack points. Make sure to put wheel stops behind the rear wheels. To get the front two jack stands in place, I first jacked the rear passenger side and put the first stand in place on the front passenger side. Then I jacked just in front of the jack point on the front driver's side and put the second stand in place at the front driver's side jack point. Jacking in front of the jack point didn't do any damage to the car.
Keep in mind I did this at night, so the pictures are not so great.
![Image]()
For reference, here is the front center jack point:
![Image]()
STEP 2: Place a tarp or some cardboard under the car where you will be working so you protect your driveway from oil spills.
STEP 3: Locate the oil drain plug. It is in the center of the car and there is a circular cutout in the undercarriage to access it - see picture below - there are some reference points so you can't miss it.
![Image]()
STEP 4: Using your socket wrench, attach a 6mm allen head socket and insert into drain plug. It takes some torque to losen, so the longer your wrench, the better. Turn it just enough to losen it and then put your drain pan in place. Remove the wrench from the socket and use your fingers to turn the socket to slowly remove the plug. Be careful towards the end, as the oil is about to come rushing out. Let the oil drain completely. Once the oil has drained, I lowered the car back to a level position and about another 1/2 litre came out. I would recommend doing this.
STEP 5: The drain plug has a small copper washer. Remove the old washer and replace it with the new one that came with the filter kit. Reinstall the drain plug and torque reasonably tight. I failed to get the torque figure from the dealer, but I'm sure one of you can come up with it - please post.
STEP 6: Remove the access panel under the front passenger side of the car. This is a small panel at the very front corner. There are four screws to remove (sorry, I'm not sure what size wrench - maybe 6 or 7mm). Remove the screws and remove the panel.
![Image]()
With this cover removed, it will reveal the oil filter housing:
![Image]()
STEP 7: Loosen the silver drain plug in the center of the filter cover with your 6mm allen socket. You will probably need an extension for this. Reposition your drain pan and carefully remove the plug and let the oil drain out.
STEP 8: Remove the gasket from the plug and replace with the new gasket included in the filter kit. Reinstall the plug.
![Image]()
STEP 9: Loosen the filter cover with a 24mm socket and remove the cover, slowly by hand. Be careful as there will still be a little oil in the cover. Remove the filter element by pulling gently.
![Image]()
![Image]()
STEP 10: Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean towel and install the new filter element by firmly pressing it into the housing - you will feel it click in.
![Image]()
STEP 11: Replace the gasket on the filter housing cover and reinstall the cover, then reinstall the access panel.
![Image]()
STEP 12: Remove oil pan and all tools from under the car. Leave the ground cover in place. Lower the car and fill with 9 litres of oil. Inspect under the car to make sure nothing is leaking. Take a drive and let the engine warm up to temperature and then take a quick reading of the oil level. If you drained all of the oil properly, you should come out with a new reading of 1.0L. (Mine was actually 1.1L).
Equipment you will need:
Jack - preferably a floor jack
Jack Stands
Torque Wrench - or socket wrench
6mm Allen Head Socket
24mm Socket
3" Socket Extension
Filter Kit - available from dealer for about $12.00
9 Litres of Castrol 10-60
Large Piece of Cardboard, or a Tarp
Oil Drain Pan (with capacity to hold 15 qts.)
STEP 1: Get the car jacked up. (if you have access to a lift, GREAT!! - your job will be a lot easier) For the rest of us, I'll leave it to you to figure out how to do this, but here is a little info on how I did it. There are 5 jack points that I know of. The first four are the corner points under the side skirts, just on the inside of each wheel. The points are very easy to find - they are marked by small arrows on the side skirts, or if you look under the car, you will see plastic rectangle pieces. The 5th point is under the front center of the car - a couple feet in from the front, in the center, there is a plastic block that is about 1.5" x 4". My problem with this point was that my floor jack wouldn't fit far enough under the car (due to H&R springs). If your car is not lowered, or if you have a lower-profile floor jack, I think this is the best point to use. I lifted the car, and put jack stands on the two front/side jack points. Make sure to put wheel stops behind the rear wheels. To get the front two jack stands in place, I first jacked the rear passenger side and put the first stand in place on the front passenger side. Then I jacked just in front of the jack point on the front driver's side and put the second stand in place at the front driver's side jack point. Jacking in front of the jack point didn't do any damage to the car.
Keep in mind I did this at night, so the pictures are not so great.
For reference, here is the front center jack point:
STEP 2: Place a tarp or some cardboard under the car where you will be working so you protect your driveway from oil spills.
STEP 3: Locate the oil drain plug. It is in the center of the car and there is a circular cutout in the undercarriage to access it - see picture below - there are some reference points so you can't miss it.
STEP 4: Using your socket wrench, attach a 6mm allen head socket and insert into drain plug. It takes some torque to losen, so the longer your wrench, the better. Turn it just enough to losen it and then put your drain pan in place. Remove the wrench from the socket and use your fingers to turn the socket to slowly remove the plug. Be careful towards the end, as the oil is about to come rushing out. Let the oil drain completely. Once the oil has drained, I lowered the car back to a level position and about another 1/2 litre came out. I would recommend doing this.
STEP 5: The drain plug has a small copper washer. Remove the old washer and replace it with the new one that came with the filter kit. Reinstall the drain plug and torque reasonably tight. I failed to get the torque figure from the dealer, but I'm sure one of you can come up with it - please post.
STEP 6: Remove the access panel under the front passenger side of the car. This is a small panel at the very front corner. There are four screws to remove (sorry, I'm not sure what size wrench - maybe 6 or 7mm). Remove the screws and remove the panel.
With this cover removed, it will reveal the oil filter housing:
STEP 7: Loosen the silver drain plug in the center of the filter cover with your 6mm allen socket. You will probably need an extension for this. Reposition your drain pan and carefully remove the plug and let the oil drain out.
STEP 8: Remove the gasket from the plug and replace with the new gasket included in the filter kit. Reinstall the plug.
STEP 9: Loosen the filter cover with a 24mm socket and remove the cover, slowly by hand. Be careful as there will still be a little oil in the cover. Remove the filter element by pulling gently.
STEP 10: Wipe the inside of the housing with a clean towel and install the new filter element by firmly pressing it into the housing - you will feel it click in.
STEP 11: Replace the gasket on the filter housing cover and reinstall the cover, then reinstall the access panel.
STEP 12: Remove oil pan and all tools from under the car. Leave the ground cover in place. Lower the car and fill with 9 litres of oil. Inspect under the car to make sure nothing is leaking. Take a drive and let the engine warm up to temperature and then take a quick reading of the oil level. If you drained all of the oil properly, you should come out with a new reading of 1.0L. (Mine was actually 1.1L).
