Ok so it looks like my original alternator is dying as it started to intermittently stop charging my battery which is new.
I don't want to install a new OEM but instead wanted to beef it up a little, wanted to see if anyone has done this or knew a place that could do this.
With the Supercharger and the cooling pump pulling more power I need to plan ahead and want something that can handle the amount of power my whole system is pulling.
bit late now, but have you ever checked with ista how much load the alternator was actually under? At idle mine shows 42%, and the highest I can get it to is 62% - when revving, this figure drops to the 30's (higher revs equals more power so less load on the alternator...) which to me suggests it has plenty of leeway for extra power requirements
A note to add here is that the IHKA (climate control) would in theory need to be reprogrammed for a higher output alternator's current draw. The alternator puts out a load signal to the DME over BSD bus and the IHKA calculates the torque requirement in nm from the alternator and feeds that to the DME. The DME uses that IHKA torque value in calculation of "consumer" torque so that it can account for load changes without fluctuating engine RPM, mostly a concern at idle.
350 for the alternator or 110 for the regulator, unless upgrading as stated, still not sure the logic of replacing the whole unit since FCP will warranty the regulator as well.
Either ways it's a 170amp Valeo from what I can tell here is a link to high power valeo's
Peace of mind does not always follow logic.
Ten years old, no absolute diagnosis without bench testing. Like i said 350 and done. Then all components new.
In our view, pulling the vanos accumulator easier (2.5 hrs) than radiator removal, but still wouldn't want to do it again six months later after partial fix...
So for us, why not, rather than why.
Tested my alternator at the shop. Its putting out zero amps. Battery voltage does not change. So alternator is completely dead they said. Is that possible? or could it be voltage regulator ?
Well the Amps dont change on the Multimeter when the car is running - so its as if alternator is completely dead. Is that possible ?
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