Rod Bearing Failure Prevention (10-60w vs 0-40w) - BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums
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post #1 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 01:32 AM Thread Starter
R8ED_M
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Rod Bearing Failure Prevention (10-60w vs 0-40w)

Hey Guys,

Firstly I want to say Thanks to everyone who posted on my last few threads. I have a 2006 E60 M5 W/Smg. Car was in the shop for transmission issues ended up replacing the transmission and clutch/flywheel. While the beast was in the shop i had noticed a rattle from the passenger side of the engine close to the valve covers. I brought this up with the shop owner who was doing the work.
2 weeks later I get a call that they took out my oil filter and found metal shavings and that the rod bearings were shot and the damage is done and the cars pretty much toast and that I should take it home and just park it. I told the owner to go ahead and fix the transmission and i would deal with the engine after. Before taking the car there i had no real serious issues with the car besides the normal throttle actuators and the transmission oil consumption was minimal and the car ran perfect. Now what i want to know is if there is rod bearing damage would running a thinner oil help so i can drive the car till i save up for a rod bearing job? and if there is anyone whose been running 0-40w for a while now and had good results. Thanks in advance any sort of info helps
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post #2 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 01:51 AM
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I'm sorry for your loss. I wouldn't drive the car it would just make it worse, I believe.
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post #3 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 02:15 AM
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I ran 0-40 for the last 2 years, just did bearings at 60K miles and they looked ready to go. Of course, I don't know if the damage was done prior to the switch or not. What precipitated the rod bearing change was a mildly high lead reading during the last oil change.
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post #4 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi View Post
I ran 0-40 for the last 2 years, just did bearings at 60K miles and they looked ready to go. Of course, I don't know if the damage was done prior to the switch or not. What precipitated the rod bearing change was a mildly high lead reading during the last oil change.
That being said who knows how long it would have lasted running 10-60w :/ Good thing you caught yours in time
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post #5 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 03:02 AM
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Nobody knows.

If you find flakes in the oil filter...the fix is new bearings at best, worst is a dead engine. Simple as that.
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post #6 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 03:43 AM
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post #7 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 03:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335xi View Post
I ran 0-40 for the last 2 years, just did bearings at 60K miles and they looked ready to go. Of course, I don't know if the damage was done prior to the switch or not. What precipitated the rod bearing change was a mildly high lead reading during the last oil change.
pics? I would be highly skeptical of that.
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post #8 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R8ED_M View Post
Hey Guys,

Firstly I want to say Thanks to everyone who posted on my last few threads. I have a 2006 E60 M5 W/Smg. Car was in the shop for transmission issues ended up replacing the transmission and clutch/flywheel. While the beast was in the shop i had noticed a rattle from the passenger side of the engine close to the valve covers. I brought this up with the shop owner who was doing the work.
2 weeks later I get a call that they took out my oil filter and found metal shavings and that the rod bearings were shot and the damage is done and the cars pretty much toast and that I should take it home and just park it. I told the owner to go ahead and fix the transmission and i would deal with the engine after. Before taking the car there i had no real serious issues with the car besides the normal throttle actuators and the transmission oil consumption was minimal and the car ran perfect. Now what i want to know is if there is rod bearing damage would running a thinner oil help so i can drive the car till i save up for a rod bearing job? and if there is anyone whose been running 0-40w for a while now and had good results. Thanks in advance any sort of info helps
I personally would not drive it even one more time without pulling the bearings.
You should wait on ordering the new bearing kit though til you see if your crank is damaged or not. It may not be worth it to drop over a grand on parts if there is scoring.
How many miles on it?

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post #9 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 07:53 AM
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Just to add to what the fellow members have said already; do not run the car with metal in your oil. It will destroy the engine and your VANOS solenoids. Just park the car and get the bearings fixed as soon as possible.

If you have the ticking noise form the bearings already, using 0W-40 will not help much.

Good luck and hope everything turns out good for you.
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post #10 of 50 Old 20th April 2017, 01:54 PM
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I may be incorrect but I understand the following:

Tws 10w60 shears to lower very soon

10w60 oil increases oil pressure as apposed to lighter weight oil

10w60 is required because otherwise the capacity of oil pump rate would need to be increased drastically

Rod bearings and crank clearance are tight but keep oil pressure up

E39 was apparently more known for failures, but build number was more

Only 1 person im aware has pulled bearings after redoing them and they looked to be as bad as the original much higher mileage units

People think replacing them means its fixed now

From my experience seeing 1st owners pms the oil change duration was generally excessive which we know isnt good

I often wonder who tops up oil when car tells them too, they probably ignore that like the service warning

statistically my own findings suggest perhaps 2% of motors have failed

Bmw are pretty smart

However they made the n63 motor so who knows

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