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post #61 of 92 Old 15th February 2017, 07:17 PM
DaveY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADA View Post
Over the years of owning mine, I've dumped a ton of cash into it. Of course, some was preventative maintenance which won't be required for another 100-150k miles. Here is a short list of maintenance items with rough costs (parts + labor + tax)

LB Idle actuator (these go bad in 50-70k miles usually) ~ 2k (1k part, 1k labor + tax)
RB Idle actuator ~ 2k
All brakes and discs completely redone (oem) ~ 5k
Rod bearings change + other enginy stuff ~ 6.2k
LB Throttle actuator ~ 2k
Oil changes ~ prolly around 1.5k right now
Battery replacement ~ $300
New Key + reprogramming ~ $200

Yeah...you do the math.....

I mean, car runs great, other than the actuators, which are a pain and whenever they go bad car stalls and can die in the middle of the road (this is not dangerous at all BMW wtf), the car has actually been pretty reliable.

Soon I think I'll have to renew my clutch, now that's gonna be fun.
Perhaps consider taking it to a different garage?
Surely those things I've highlighted are highly exaggerated? It can't be that much in te US for servicing surely? I thought the UK was more expensive??

If you are not afraid to get involved yourself and do the simple mechanical bits and pieces then you can save a fortune.

For example:

Complete Brakes change (4x BMW OEM Discs, Full set of OEM Pads, Full set of braided brake lines, Replacement brake fluid, OEM Handbrake Shoes, BMW OEM Handbrake Install kit (springs etc), BMW OEM Handbrake Cable, and even replacement BMW OEM disc fitting bolts and full hydraulic bleed of the system) I can do for about £1400 GBP or $1700 USD. It takes a few hours at most.

People over here are getting quotes around £2000 GBP or $2500 USD for a rod bearing change. Not sure what other enginey work you mean.

Oil changes are simple. Full drain, flush, drain, fill procedure and new BMW OEM filter can be done for around £200 GBP, or $250 USD using Castrol Edge 10w60. (Other oils are generally cheaper in fact)

I've found a guy that will also install a new battery that I have bought and register it for £140 GBP or $175 USD.

Still,none of that is as cheap as perhaps, a decent Ford, French/Jap car etc but you should expect to pay for what your getting in performance!

///M5 E60 Review in 2 sentences:
£1000 a month service costs, before you factor in the 9 mpg average. Then it's just the joyful enthusiasm it has for trying to kill you in any situation, or itself every other day.


Car history:
'94 Renault Clio, '86 Peugeot 205, '97 Peugeot 106, '89 Nissan 200SX, '99 Peugeot 306 GTI-6, '01 Citroen Xsara, '07 Ford Mondeo, '06 BMW 335d E92, '06 BMW E60 M5
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post #62 of 92 Old 15th February 2017, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveY View Post
Perhaps consider taking it to a different garage?
Surely those things I've highlighted are highly exaggerated? It can't be that much in te US for servicing surely? I thought the UK was more expensive??

If you are not afraid to get involved yourself and do the simple mechanical bits and pieces then you can save a fortune.

For example:

Complete Brakes change (4x BMW OEM Discs, Full set of OEM Pads, Full set of braided brake lines, Replacement brake fluid, OEM Handbrake Shoes, BMW OEM Handbrake Install kit (springs etc), BMW OEM Handbrake Cable, and even replacement BMW OEM disc fitting bolts and full hydraulic bleed of the system) I can do for about £1400 GBP or $1700 USD. It takes a few hours at most.

People over here are getting quotes around £2000 GBP or $2500 USD for a rod bearing change. Not sure what other enginey work you mean.

Oil changes are simple. Full drain, flush, drain, fill procedure and new BMW OEM filter can be done for around £200 GBP, or $250 USD using Castrol Edge 10w60. (Other oils are generally cheaper in fact)

I've found a guy that will also install a new battery that I have bought and register it for £140 GBP or $175 USD.

Still,none of that is as cheap as perhaps, a decent Ford, French/Jap car etc but you should expect to pay for what your getting in performance!
I save all of the paperwork and I can look up the actual figures but there are probably a few reasons for why the prices are through the roof. Reason 1 being I only service at the dealer. Always. Although I am car literate, where I live I don't have a garage or any other space and tools to work on the car. So if there is anything that needs to be done, I typically take it to the dealer. I have tried to take my car into numerous repair shops around where I live, all of them either declined to service my car, or tried, and after terrible experience I went out the door anyway.

I'll look up the brake numbers when I get home tonight, but as far as the engine, that's the price for BE bearings, ARP bolts, new VANOS lines, a few other wear and tear engine parts (seals, etc etc) and the labor. Around here, the labor costs pretty much half of the part prices. Even small repair shops in town charge $100 per hour and higher.

Oil changes are typically $300 a pop, because I always replace filters and etc. Once in 4k miles, and over the years yeah..about $1500 now in total

____
Meh.

Last edited by ADA; 15th February 2017 at 08:32 PM.
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post #63 of 92 Old 15th February 2017, 09:00 PM
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Money Pit Confirmed. LOL


The BMW stealers near me charge $125/hr to be honest, but an ex-dealer BMW mechanic charges me $45~/hr.
I was all for getting my 335d properly serviced by BMW Main Dealers so i could keep its value up in its service history. As I've bought my M5 with only part of a history and accident damage, it doesn't other me so much.

///M5 E60 Review in 2 sentences:
£1000 a month service costs, before you factor in the 9 mpg average. Then it's just the joyful enthusiasm it has for trying to kill you in any situation, or itself every other day.


Car history:
'94 Renault Clio, '86 Peugeot 205, '97 Peugeot 106, '89 Nissan 200SX, '99 Peugeot 306 GTI-6, '01 Citroen Xsara, '07 Ford Mondeo, '06 BMW 335d E92, '06 BMW E60 M5
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post #64 of 92 Old 15th February 2017, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiftytwoeighty View Post
I couldn't agree more. I'm on another forum where we buy/exchange/sell watches that range from four figures to six figures. The first rule is to buy the seller, before you buy the watch.

Unfortunately as more of these cars exchange hands and end up on dealer lots, it's getting harder and harder to buy the seller.
Is that so?? PM me the forum, I switch out my watches from time to time.

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post #65 of 92 Old 15th February 2017, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by JrMint03 View Post
Is that so?? PM me the forum, I switch out my watches from time to time.
PM sent. There are a handful of us on both Boards.

~Woody

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s85 + (afterthought) 6mt =133,000 miles with no RCOD and counting ...just saying...

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1988 e28 m5 STROKER 420bhp 91 octane(Paul Burke s38b39); VAC LTW flywheel; MegaSquirt G2 DME; Euro RestoMod track car: caged, 6 point FIA harness, FIA Sabelt GT-160 seats...AC/heater, interior, sunroof, rear seat delete; Euro Headers, dump valve, and race cats; z3 1.9L ssk and ZHP shifter; custom Ground Control Coilovers/camber plates; Mason Engineering front/rear strut bars; Brembo 6/4 BBK; 17x8 BBS RK w/Dunlop StarSpec II; undergoing Euro restoration, building the sub 2,400lb e28 CSL ///Motorsport never built. 5.71lbs/hp

1996 FZJ 80; LOCKED; Factory TRD Supercharger; Expo/Overland/Backcountry Rig; custom sleeper/drawer system, full rock armor, 33"s on 2.5" OME Heavy Lift; Rigid LEDs F/R; 228,000 miles and counting.
2008 Audi A3 S-Line Quattro w/flappy paddles (Mammoth Mountain Commuter)
2000 e39 m5 TiAg (Gone, but not forgotten) sold 7/2014 to a good home.

The Indys that I trust for all my Beasts' needs: oceansidemotorsports.com my local physician for service autohausfrankfurt.com/ my local Dinan supplier trinityautosport.com my local drug dealer for my crack habit
fastattackmotorsports.com because JColley!

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post #66 of 92 Old 16th February 2017, 01:11 AM
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wow, that is cheap

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveY View Post
Money Pit Confirmed. LOL


The BMW stealers near me charge $125/hr to be honest, but an ex-dealer BMW mechanic charges me $45~/hr.
I was all for getting my 335d properly serviced by BMW Main Dealers so i could keep its value up in its service history. As I've bought my M5 with only part of a history and accident damage, it doesn't other me so much.
Here it's $180/hour at dealer.
About $100 at indy.
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post #67 of 92 Old 16th February 2017, 01:41 AM
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post #68 of 92 Old 16th February 2017, 04:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corrieharris27 View Post
huge money pit.
Any used car is a risk. If you have rotten luck and need a new engine it will hurt. There are also a lot of gadgets to break. Don't get one of these if you can't afford to drop $10k unexpectedly. And find a good independent mechanic because BMW dealers seem to be set up more for warranty repairs (i.e. mega inflated prices).

M5's are great bargains if you enjoy working on them yourself. They are relatively easy to work on, too... certainly compared to our Outback and Odyssey.
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post #69 of 92 Old 16th February 2017, 07:21 AM
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Just pulled up a few of my records
Replacing throttle actuator last summer: $1327.41 in parts, $738.40 labor
Head gasket replacement, screws, o-rings, self-locking collars, pulley adjustment, adjusting belt tensioners, new deflection pulley, filter, compression springs, fluids, all belts, vanos oil lines, arp bolts, be rod bearings: $1806 parts and $3850 labor+ tax ~ $6116.14
Oil and filter change ~ $275
Coolant Flush ~ $300
Final Drive Fluid Flush ~ $350
Transmission fluid flush ~ $260
SMG service with adaptation ~ $370
Replace microfilter ~ $220
OEM brake pads, discs, steel brake lines, fluid flush ~ $1417 labor, I bought all my parts somewhere else but they were like $2k for everything, and also Dinan monoballs were part of the same job, so all and all it was actually more like $4k for it, rather than 5k.

Just a little glimpse into ownership right there.

Basically, the only things which broke over the years of ownership were the actuators, some of those were like $800 bucks to replace (I think idle), and some were 2k a pop (throttle)
Other than that, the car didn't really brake down, and I just end up doing these $300 oil changes..

____
Meh.

Last edited by ADA; 16th February 2017 at 07:24 AM.
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post #70 of 92 Old 16th February 2017, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADA View Post
Just pulled up a few of my records
Replacing throttle actuator last summer: $1327.41 in parts, $738.40 labor
Head gasket replacement, screws, o-rings, self-locking collars, pulley adjustment, adjusting belt tensioners, new deflection pulley, filter, compression springs, fluids, all belts, vanos oil lines, arp bolts, be rod bearings: $1806 parts and $3850 labor+ tax ~ $6116.14
Oil and filter change ~ $275
Coolant Flush ~ $300
Final Drive Fluid Flush ~ $350
Transmission fluid flush ~ $260
SMG service with adaptation ~ $370
Replace microfilter ~ $220
OEM brake pads, discs, steel brake lines, fluid flush ~ $1417 labor, I bought all my parts somewhere else but they were like $2k for everything, and also Dinan monoballs were part of the same job, so all and all it was actually more like $4k for it, rather than 5k.

Just a little glimpse into ownership right there.

Basically, the only things which broke over the years of ownership were the actuators, some of those were like $800 bucks to replace (I think idle), and some were 2k a pop (throttle)
Other than that, the car didn't really brake down, and I just end up doing these $300 oil changes..
I'm guessing every single car you've owned has been a money pit.

Here's a hint: you're getting ripped off. Like senile old lady walks into a shady used car dealership level of ripped off. The owner of that BMW store just made 100% profit margin on that microfilter replacement charge (2 $36 filters, 10 mins of tech time). I would highly recommend purchasing a CPO car next time around and only keep it while the manufacturer warranty is in force. Otherwise you'll get taken again.

On a side note, we've got a bunch of family friends that own various dealerships and they always joke how it's the people that continually bring in their 20 year old 3 series and E classes that pay for all the dealer overhead.

Last edited by pmalik; 16th February 2017 at 11:01 AM.
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