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M5 a money pit?

18K views 91 replies 42 participants last post by  thefleshrocket 
#1 ·
So I've been looking at 08+ M5s and came across a message board on a website that I won't mention. Basically, they just made the car sound like a huge money pit. Like once the SMG pump goes next is the bearings, then after the bearing job is this n that n it never ends lol. They say to have a college fund ready for repairs. So my question is has anyone had a good running e60 without tons of problems? Should I be scared to get one?

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#52 ·
Thanks for the recommendation feedthegoat25 although I am in Northern Ireland. I like to do as much of my own work as I can anyway. Only really get help from others if I need a special/specific tool or its electrical work such as coding as that makes my brain hurt.
 
#54 ·
I have owned my 2006 (80k miles on clock) M5 for 3 years and 20k miles, paying £17k for the car including a three year warranty. Other than servicing cost I have spent around £13k in repairs (3k ish covered by warranty). Clutch and flywheel replacement, which I expected as it was on the original clutch when bought it, so accounted for in the purchase price. Full engine rebuild due to damaged timing chain, oil pumps replaced, ionic control sensor replace, o2 sensors and some other minor repairs. So I would agree that these cars can be very expensive to maintain. Brakes all-around next, which I expect will be around £1500, and oil changes every 5k miles. But regardless of the cost, this is an awesome car and I will definitely be keeping mine for some time.
 
#60 · (Edited)
Over the years of owning mine, I've dumped a ton of cash into it. Of course, some was preventative maintenance which won't be required for another 100-150k miles. Here is a short list of maintenance items with rough costs (parts + labor + tax)

LB Idle actuator (these go bad in 50-70k miles usually) ~ 2k (1k part, 1k labor + tax)
RB Idle actuator ~ 2k
All brakes and discs completely redone (oem) ~ 5k
Rod bearings change + other enginy stuff ~ 6.2k
LB Throttle actuator ~ 2k
Oil changes ~ prolly around 1.5k right now
Battery replacement ~ $300
New Key + reprogramming ~ $200

Yeah...you do the math.....

I mean, car runs great, other than the actuators, which are a pain and whenever they go bad car stalls and can die in the middle of the road (this is not dangerous at all BMW wtf), the car has actually been pretty reliable.

Soon I think I'll have to renew my clutch, now that's gonna be fun.
 
#61 ·
Over the years of owning mine, I've dumped a ton of cash into it. Of course, some was preventative maintenance which won't be required for another 100-150k miles. Here is a short list of maintenance items with rough costs (parts + labor + tax)

LB Idle actuator (these go bad in 50-70k miles usually) ~ 2k (1k part, 1k labor + tax)
RB Idle actuator ~ 2k
All brakes and discs completely redone (oem) ~ 5k
Rod bearings change + other enginy stuff ~ 6.2k
LB Throttle actuator ~ 2k
Oil changes ~ prolly around 1.5k right now
Battery replacement ~ $300
New Key + reprogramming ~ $200

Yeah...you do the math.....

I mean, car runs great, other than the actuators, which are a pain and whenever they go bad car stalls and can die in the middle of the road (this is not dangerous at all BMW wtf), the car has actually been pretty reliable.

Soon I think I'll have to renew my clutch, now that's gonna be fun.
Perhaps consider taking it to a different garage?
Surely those things I've highlighted are highly exaggerated? It can't be that much in te US for servicing surely? I thought the UK was more expensive??

If you are not afraid to get involved yourself and do the simple mechanical bits and pieces then you can save a fortune.

For example:

Complete Brakes change (4x BMW OEM Discs, Full set of OEM Pads, Full set of braided brake lines, Replacement brake fluid, OEM Handbrake Shoes, BMW OEM Handbrake Install kit (springs etc), BMW OEM Handbrake Cable, and even replacement BMW OEM disc fitting bolts and full hydraulic bleed of the system) I can do for about £1400 GBP or $1700 USD. It takes a few hours at most.

People over here are getting quotes around £2000 GBP or $2500 USD for a rod bearing change. Not sure what other enginey work you mean.

Oil changes are simple. Full drain, flush, drain, fill procedure and new BMW OEM filter can be done for around £200 GBP, or $250 USD using Castrol Edge 10w60. (Other oils are generally cheaper in fact)

I've found a guy that will also install a new battery that I have bought and register it for £140 GBP or $175 USD.

Still,none of that is as cheap as perhaps, a decent Ford, French/Jap car etc but you should expect to pay for what your getting in performance!
 
#63 ·
Money Pit Confirmed. LOL


The BMW stealers near me charge $125/hr to be honest, but an ex-dealer BMW mechanic charges me $45~/hr.
I was all for getting my 335d properly serviced by BMW Main Dealers so i could keep its value up in its service history. As I've bought my M5 with only part of a history and accident damage, it doesn't other me so much.
 
#68 ·
huge money pit.
Any used car is a risk. If you have rotten luck and need a new engine it will hurt. There are also a lot of gadgets to break. Don't get one of these if you can't afford to drop $10k unexpectedly. And find a good independent mechanic because BMW dealers seem to be set up more for warranty repairs (i.e. mega inflated prices).

M5's are great bargains if you enjoy working on them yourself. They are relatively easy to work on, too... certainly compared to our Outback and Odyssey.
 
#69 · (Edited)
Just pulled up a few of my records
Replacing throttle actuator last summer: $1327.41 in parts, $738.40 labor
Head gasket replacement, screws, o-rings, self-locking collars, pulley adjustment, adjusting belt tensioners, new deflection pulley, filter, compression springs, fluids, all belts, vanos oil lines, arp bolts, be rod bearings: $1806 parts and $3850 labor+ tax ~ $6116.14
Oil and filter change ~ $275
Coolant Flush ~ $300
Final Drive Fluid Flush ~ $350
Transmission fluid flush ~ $260
SMG service with adaptation ~ $370
Replace microfilter ~ $220
OEM brake pads, discs, steel brake lines, fluid flush ~ $1417 labor, I bought all my parts somewhere else but they were like $2k for everything, and also Dinan monoballs were part of the same job, so all and all it was actually more like $4k for it, rather than 5k.

Just a little glimpse into ownership right there.

Basically, the only things which broke over the years of ownership were the actuators, some of those were like $800 bucks to replace (I think idle), and some were 2k a pop (throttle)
Other than that, the car didn't really brake down, and I just end up doing these $300 oil changes..
 
#70 · (Edited)
Just pulled up a few of my records
Replacing throttle actuator last summer: $1327.41 in parts, $738.40 labor
Head gasket replacement, screws, o-rings, self-locking collars, pulley adjustment, adjusting belt tensioners, new deflection pulley, filter, compression springs, fluids, all belts, vanos oil lines, arp bolts, be rod bearings: $1806 parts and $3850 labor+ tax ~ $6116.14
Oil and filter change ~ $275
Coolant Flush ~ $300
Final Drive Fluid Flush ~ $350
Transmission fluid flush ~ $260
SMG service with adaptation ~ $370
Replace microfilter ~ $220
OEM brake pads, discs, steel brake lines, fluid flush ~ $1417 labor, I bought all my parts somewhere else but they were like $2k for everything, and also Dinan monoballs were part of the same job, so all and all it was actually more like $4k for it, rather than 5k.

Just a little glimpse into ownership right there.

Basically, the only things which broke over the years of ownership were the actuators, some of those were like $800 bucks to replace (I think idle), and some were 2k a pop (throttle)
Other than that, the car didn't really brake down, and I just end up doing these $300 oil changes..
I'm guessing every single car you've owned has been a money pit.

Here's a hint: you're getting ripped off. Like senile old lady walks into a shady used car dealership level of ripped off. The owner of that BMW store just made 100% profit margin on that microfilter replacement charge (2 $36 filters, 10 mins of tech time). I would highly recommend purchasing a CPO car next time around and only keep it while the manufacturer warranty is in force. Otherwise you'll get taken again.

On a side note, we've got a bunch of family friends that own various dealerships and they always joke how it's the people that continually bring in their 20 year old 3 series and E classes that pay for all the dealer overhead.
 
#71 ·
Sweet Jesus, i think this thread alone will save the E60 M5 as a marque in general tbh.

It'll make potential buyers run a mile unless they know they've got a hefty amount of cash in reserve for inevitable upkeep.

Damn...........i never knew this car would be so costly to run. Brilliant in it's own right....but a perfect example of...just because you can afford to buy the car, doesn't mean you can afford to run the car.
 
#72 ·
Moral of the E60 M5 story is source/buy your own parts and install them yourself.

Save some money, learn a little something, feel good about it.
 
#73 · (Edited)
I would, however, like to respond to all of the valid points in response to my ownership costs.

1. Yes I am getting ripped off by the stealership and I know it.
2. As I've said, I cannot service the car myself, and nobody around would do it other than the stealer.
3. I was well aware of the high maintenance costs of the vehicle when I purchased it. This is why none of the issues I've ever fixed with mine were ever a surprise, unlike they might have been for a lot of other owners. I've seen a lot of people buy the V10 beast, and then sell it within 2 years because they just couldn't cope with the maintenance costs.
4. Recently I did figure out a way for myself to save, I buy parts myself and just have dealer install them. The maintenance costs have dropped about 50% because of that. The only downside, the parts have to be OEM, otherwise they don't touch them.

I'm guessing every single car you've owned has been a money pit.
Considering how my M5 is the only car I've ever owned, that'd be a no.

Yes, I've spent a ton of money on my car, yes I baby it. Yes it's illogical. But I love my car and love defies logic. I bought what I liked, and I drive what I like. And I don't care how much it costs because the car I drive is my favorite car in the world right now.
Isn't that what happiness is all about? :p

But of course, I am trying to save money where I can, not being completely stupid about it. I just have to deal with certain limitations of my situation (absence of good indy and my own garage). But whatever it is, no expense is ever spared on the M or the missus. :)
 
#75 ·
Funny story, first time i saw a m5 in real life was on the back of a tow truck. Just as i was discussing with someone i was about to buy one haha

Personally i do dyi a small amount, but tend to purchase my own and get dealer to fit it

Mainly because im time poor
 
#78 · (Edited)
Here's what I did to my 06 in the 4 years, and about 18k miles I had it -

Repairs -

8/12/2012 $140.00 Stevens Creek BMW Comfort access programming
2/1/2013 $4,594.00 Mt View BMW Vanos high pressure line
2/1/2013 $361.94 Mt View BMW Thigh support motor
2/1/2013 $260.00 Mt View BMW Transmission reprogram
7/29/2013 $1,759.27 Mt View BMW Throttle actuator
12/27/2013 $2,764.08 Mt View BMW A/C Evaporator
2/21/2014 $- Mt View BMW A/C Flap
9/8/2014 $431.39 Mt View BMW Ignition coil
11/8/2015 $2,474.39 Mt View BMW Seat occupancy sensor
11/8/2015 $625.63 Mt View BMW Thrust arm bushings

Maintenance -

2/1/2015 $3,941.00 Mt View BMW Clutch and flywheel
7/31/2013 $195.00 Mt View BMW Brake fluid
1/24/2013 $862.90 Sonic Motorsports Transmission/diff fluid, battery
2/21/2014 $192.10 Mt View BMW Oil change
10/14/2015 $180.00 Dinan BMW Oil change
10/13/2015 $602.70 California Wheels 2 285/35/19 Hankook rear tires
5/27/2014 $29.87 Wheel Works wheel balance
5/30/2014 $275.00 California Wheels Wheel alignment
11/3/2015 $199.98 Dinan BMW Wheel alignment
2/13/2013 $- Mt View BMW Oil change
11/8/2015 $168.45 Mt View BMW Power steering flush
11/8/2015 $193.34 Mt View BMW Cooling system flush

Total repairs maintenance over 18k miles - $20,251.04

Money pit for sure. I do miss it dearly though.

edit: I should add that most of the repairs were covered by warranty (carmax) and that those prices listed are at the discounted labor rate of the warranty co. I believe it was 25-50 per hour cheaper which is SIGNIFICANT.
 
#81 · (Edited)
4 years of ownership and 20K miles.. M5 is my weekend car.

Clutch position sensor, half my mechanic, half me... Was around $400

4 new vanos solenoids.... I did the install myself and at the time they first starting going up.. $1400
Vanos solenoids wasn't a must, had highway cycle drone, warm idle fluctuation, both i could have lived with, no codes whatsoever but i like to keep my car at 100% always.

Voltage regulator, install myself.. $140

Everything else i have done was my own pre maintenance and such.. But that was what went wrong..

Excluding the vanos solenoids which wasnt a break down or issue, the M5 has cost me in repairs less than 1000$ in oem parts in 4 years and 20K miles.. KNOCK ON WOOD!
Way better then my Two previous BRAND NEW 335's that i put about 25-30K miles on each, always had misfires, fuel pump, coils, plugs, injectors issues etc. etc.
 
#82 · (Edited)
Just bought my first BMW - E60 M5. Always owned european cars in the past but never a bimmer. From reading this post it seems most of the cost comes from labor - which is something I like and prefer to do myself anyway. I'm not afraid of mechanics or electronics either - used to race sportbikes, overhauled all kinds of engines as a hobby and designing aircraft electrical systems for a living does give me some confidence... We'll see how it turns out.
 
#87 ·
Was all excited to have my car "back" after doing the plugs yesterday, couldn't push it hard at all without cylinder 3 misfiring. As soon as I finish and start to go on a quick test drive....idle actuator fails, car can't go more than 50 mph or rev past 2500 rpm.

So figured I might as well do both since I sure as hell don't want to do it twice and also run the risk of it dying on me again on the road. Another $900 gone there...still worth it...
 
#89 · (Edited)
M5 6MT owner, every option, when bought it was pristine at 93k. Just crossed 100k. Still pristine. Chevron synthetic 10/60w. Nothing has actually gone wrong with the automobile past the driver's powered thigh-adjuster thing going kaput.

Only time I can say it 'malfunctions' is hot-weather scenarios where cooling fans run an extended time after the car shuts off. This can drain the battery just enough sometimes to get iDrive to report DSC or some-such is doomed on subsequent start up. Let the car charge the battery/warm up, re-start it, and things not doomed anymore. I'm also pretty religious about proper starting and warm-up whenever I operate the car.

I changed the rear pads in October, then was snowed in pretty much for three months and didn't drive the car once. Started it up two days ago - battery was low, computer reported doom everywhere - and chug-chug-chug it slowly went into that mechanical wheeze. Check all the control-messages and gauges after warm up, go once around cul-de-sac to make sure all in order, re-start and all-clear on iDrive. Car goes no problem. Changing oil next week. Last one had a good Blackstone. I'm out $100 on the rear pads and about $300 on oil (got three cases of the Castrol).

So, honestly, my M5 has been a cheap reliable car(?) for 7k miles.

Now that I've typed this, I'll go drive it tomorrow and get a stuck injector. ;)
 
#92 ·
You guys paying $200+ for oil changes.. wow. Mobil1 0W40 is $25 for a 5-quart jug, and a Mann oil filter is about $10, so figure $60 for an oil change. $60 every 5K miles is nothing. I changed out pads at all four corners with PosiQuiet semi-metallic pads (less dust and less-aggressive initial bite) for literally $70.67 for everything. I flushed the brake fluid for the cost of a couple of bottles of Valvoline synthetic DOT3/DOT4, which were probably $6 or $7 each.

Sure, when it needs rod bearings or VANOS solenoids or throttle actuators, I'll be really opening my wallet.. I'm not doing that stuff myself and obviously I'm at the mercy of market value for those parts. But in the meantime, the basic stuff hasn't been painful.
 
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