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E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion 2005- Advertiser's Forum

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post #21 of 27 Old 10th January 2017, 07:37 AM
Brandon Lin
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Hi all,

I am a new 2008 m5 owner and I recently experienced the red and yellow cog on my dash while driving around 70 mph on the highway.
The car went to reduced power and when I exited the highway to a stop and trying to accelerate again it would take a bit of gas before the gear engages and moves the car. (The car would jump forward when the gear actually does engage)

The car starts fine, but the red cog still remains every time I start it, and if I try to drive it, 1st gear takes some initial gas before it will move and jump forward.

The car only has 35,000 miles.

My m5 is lowered on coil overs, and has 20 inch forged COR wheels with 305/25/20 in the rear and 255/30/20 in the front. Don't know if tire or wheel size could of caused any damage?

The car does have a pulley kit on it and RPI scoops, those are the only engine mods on it.

Prior to this red cog issue, I did notice that the cars time and date would not hold if sat for more than a few days. So a possible battery issue?

I haven't taken the car to a shop for codes yet because I not know of any reputable/ affordable shops in the bay area. Does anyone know any excellent shops to bring my beast in for a repair? I live in Los Altos/ Palo Alto / Mountain View area.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank You,
Brandon
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post #22 of 27 Old 10th January 2017, 02:04 PM
JrMint03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Lin View Post
Hi all,

I am a new 2008 m5 owner and I recently experienced the red and yellow cog on my dash while driving around 70 mph on the highway.
The car went to reduced power and when I exited the highway to a stop and trying to accelerate again it would take a bit of gas before the gear engages and moves the car. (The car would jump forward when the gear actually does engage)

The car starts fine, but the red cog still remains every time I start it, and if I try to drive it, 1st gear takes some initial gas before it will move and jump forward.

The car only has 35,000 miles.

My m5 is lowered on coil overs, and has 20 inch forged COR wheels with 305/25/20 in the rear and 255/30/20 in the front. Don't know if tire or wheel size could of caused any damage?

The car does have a pulley kit on it and RPI scoops, those are the only engine mods on it.

Prior to this red cog issue, I did notice that the cars time and date would not hold if sat for more than a few days. So a possible battery issue?

I haven't taken the car to a shop for codes yet because I not know of any reputable/ affordable shops in the bay area. Does anyone know any excellent shops to bring my beast in for a repair? I live in Los Altos/ Palo Alto / Mountain View area.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank You,
Brandon
Wrong thread buddy. Make a new one and you'll get some action.

2007 E60 M5- Black Saphire

Eisenmann Race Exhaust
CIC Retrofit
Euro SMG Tune
RPI Scoops and Block off Plates
Lowtech Front Springs
H&R 12mm Spacers all around
Black Kidney Grills
LED Interior, License Plate and Side Marker Lights
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post #23 of 27 Old 10th January 2017, 09:47 PM
Brandon Lin
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Hi,
Sorry about this.
Thanks for letting me know.
I am a new member to the forums and I am looking around to see how to start my own topic, but don't see any options to do that. Can you give me a little guide on starting my own post?

Thanks,
Brandon Lin
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post #24 of 27 Old 11th January 2017, 02:12 AM
Eclectic Taste
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Lin View Post
Hi,
Sorry about this.
Thanks for letting me know.
I am a new member to the forums and I am looking around to see how to start my own topic, but don't see any options to do that. Can you give me a little guide on starting my own post?

Thanks,
Brandon Lin
Go back to the main forum page ( E60 M5 and E61 M5 Touring Discussion). Click the link to post new thread:
BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums - Post New Thread

Good luck
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post #25 of 27 Old 12th January 2017, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
IlyaG
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Originally Posted by JrMint03 View Post
It will cost around 6k to store it for that long. I would imagine a storage place will give you a much cheaper price if you're there that long. If it's low miles and the exact way he wants it, in 4 years the car will be worth more than what he sells it for today. These cars with low miles are becoming more and more rare.
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Originally Posted by cold m3 View Post
OP: How is storing a car for 4+ years worth it? The car is going to be worth less than it is now and cost a lot of money to store. Just doesn't seem worth it IMO. Buy one when you come back with the money you will be saving.




Can you make your signature any larger I cant see it...? /s

Well the car books at about 25,000 right now it was fully loaded new. ive owned it since 30,000 miles and now its climbing into 70k i honestly have no need for the extra cash.

(yes even if i traded the car in for 19,000 and stuck it in an IRA i would make some money, but its not about the money)


As far as its value later, anything increasing would be always considered a plus, but at the end of the day i feel like i own a piece of automotive history.

During my travels i also plan to add a second car to storage which im currently hunting for, It will be a veilside fortune rx7, and it too will just be a garage/storage unit paperweight.





Quote:
Originally Posted by JrMint03 View Post
This is what you need to do.

First, you don't change the fluids every year when the car isn't being touched. That makes no sense. Get an oil change now, fill the gas tank to the top, and buy a trickle charger. Something else to consider, purchase "flat stoppers', I have them for my M5 which I store for long periods of time. They prevent flat spots on the tires

You fill the gas tank full to prevent moisture. Add fuel stabilizer.

Trickle charger will keep battery full. If no outlet, pull the battery and put a trickle charger on it.

Put a car cover on it.

DO NOT drive the car once a year, that's just not good practice. Do not drive it till you return. At that point, go get all your fluids replaced.

Put covers over the exhaust pipes(or put rolled up socks in them.)

That's all you need to do. Everything else you read about is pointless. Jack stands will only ruin the suspension being suspended for so long. Don't do that.

Most people are telling you what they would do, I am telling you what I actually do. I own exotics(lamborghini/ferrari) and my m5, and other cars. I store them in a warehouse for long periods of time. Do not store the car with an empty tank like others suggest. Do not drain the coolant. Do not drain any fluids.

Thank you soo much for the reply!! i didnt even know flat stoppers existed, had my dealer show me a set that they keep. This will make my life soo much easier!


Best Regards

~ilya
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post #26 of 27 Old 12th January 2017, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
IlyaG
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brandon Lin View Post
Hi all,

I am a new 2008 m5 owner and I recently experienced the red and yellow cog on my dash while driving around 70 mph on the highway.
The car went to reduced power and when I exited the highway to a stop and trying to accelerate again it would take a bit of gas before the gear engages and moves the car. (The car would jump forward when the gear actually does engage)

The car starts fine, but the red cog still remains every time I start it, and if I try to drive it, 1st gear takes some initial gas before it will move and jump forward.

The car only has 35,000 miles.

My m5 is lowered on coil overs, and has 20 inch forged COR wheels with 305/25/20 in the rear and 255/30/20 in the front. Don't know if tire or wheel size could of caused any damage?

The car does have a pulley kit on it and RPI scoops, those are the only engine mods on it.

Prior to this red cog issue, I did notice that the cars time and date would not hold if sat for more than a few days. So a possible battery issue?

I haven't taken the car to a shop for codes yet because I not know of any reputable/ affordable shops in the bay area. Does anyone know any excellent shops to bring my beast in for a repair? I live in Los Altos/ Palo Alto / Mountain View area.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thank You,
Brandon



Now these are not facts here just my experience from having 5 e60 m5s parked in my yard at one point. ( lots of stuff busts) Anyway so you are having SMG issues this is a sign of future failure could be the pump or a billion other things, firs thing to do is to get a BMW code reader a D-can cable with ISTA D would be perfect. will cost ya maybe $100.00.

Now regarding your wheel setup, BMW and the M line up in particular do not like to have different sized wheels and tires. from what i can see your rear tire is a little too big, ( yes it fits and looks sexxxy AF) BUT the more rubber that touches the ground the more torque the car has to make to push it, with more rubber touching the ground you will have less torque slip ( wheel spin) BUT this torque must be released somewhere, and that place is usually somewhere in the transmission as it tends to have weak and frail pieces.

The best things is to go to and INDY who will charge ya maybe $90 per hour, and have him do a diagnostic and give you a quote on repair, as you might be on the edge of spending a few Gs in repair,
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post #27 of 27 Old 13th January 2017, 01:27 AM
Brandon Lin
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Thank You for the advice Ilya!

BMW USB OBD ISTA DCAN D-CAN Cable INPA Ediabas 2008+ U.S. Seller LOOK | eBay

I found this D can cable, but not sure if it has ISTA D.
Will that be all I need? Have you heard about the Carly code readers? any good?

Yes, I think it may very well be my transmission issue, since my tires are quite wide and the car didn't drive as smooth as I think a m5 should drive prior to the sms red cog.

I am currently out of town, and probably won't have time to work on my car until February. But I wanted to have some expert advice for what I should purchase and trouble shoot myself.

Do you have any video links that teaches newbies how to read the codes from the car?

My priority is to figure out which shop I should bring it to, as I am quite new to performance cars and wished that someone who lives in Northmen California can give me some shop suggestions.

So far, all the local shops that I have called, charge $150 - $300 per hour.

Shops I called so far:
BTM Motorwerks in Cambell
Auto Analysis II
Edge Motorworks in Mountain View
Toppling motorsports in San Mateo


I hope there is a $90 / hour shop in Northern Cali

Thanks for the help,

Brandon L
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