I bought my M5 used from a dealer with no service history. Given the miles at 87,000 I knew a few things will come up for repairs one of them being the clutch. I got the usual signs red cog and yellow cog at high gears and mostly on highway driving and then one day nothing. No movement.
So I decided to bite the bullet and do a clutch and everything else needed to make sure I will be good for quite a while.
Here are some pictures I took since I know we all love pictures.
Looking forward to see the condition of the components, esp the throwout bearing and guide..
Good work!! Hope u change the slave aswell while you are in there.. I would hate for you to drop your trans again to change it out or worse yet, have fluid leak all over your new clutch and flywheel!
Looks like the clutch sensor did its job. The flywheel has some odd looking hazy spots. You can barely see them in the photo. It was difficult to get them on the picture but the pressure plate had similar ones. They don't look anything like heat spots. The centering bearing was a little noisy and very tiny bite to it when spun. The collar however you can see the destruction.
Yea i see those spots on the flywheel for sure... how does the guide sleeve and throw-out bearing feel? Sometimes pics can be deceiving, is it smooth or rough? Nice work again and pics!
The throw out bearing was on its way out. It was a little rough. The trans sleeve was smooth but not perfect. Felt more like glue residue. I'm going to order the cryro treated sleeve. The flywheel I'm leaving it. It really looks normal after a second inspection.
I'm doing my clutch currently as well and the throwout looks similar to yours but is probably worse. When it spins makes quite a bit of a grinding noise. I think your flywheel looks pretty good too. Nice work!
Well I ordered all my parts yesterday since I got an opportunity to get 5% off from one of the websites. New slave, hydraulic pump, clutch sensor, center bearing, Guibo, Guide sleeve, fork, pivot pin, clip, pressure plate bolts, guibo bolts, rear main seal. I'm still trying to find flywheel bolts
You ever launch your car or WOT from a standstill?
Might have missed it, im sure your changing your pilot bearing as well?
Would great if you can get some pics of doing the rear main seal as im not sure we have a main DIY for that, i would add it to the list on the forum..
Other points to that may be useless, make sure to offset the clutch marking 180 degrees from flywheel marking..
Make sure to bleed the smg hydraulic block via aoftware and the screw on the bottom of the block (remember do not fully remove the screw) Also bleed via software the slave...
Interested to hear after a little break in how the clutch feels and grabs
Yes I launch it twice but never really abused it- I just enjoy driving it. As for the rear main seal no problem I can take pics.
Oh yeah thanks for reminding on the pilot bearing. I completely forgot about that.
It's possible, but unlikely that the case is cracked. I'd clean off the the residual and check again later. It's only fluid seepage and nothing to worry about. From my own experience, it's the oil line that needs to be replaced.
I Changed the clutch cylinder,sleeve, clip n pin. Looks like I must of hit the temp switch when moving the trans around. Luckily it's the cheaper sensor. The pressure sensor is like $250.
Got the hydraulic pump in and tmrw I will change the pilot bearing and crank seal. Here you can see the temp switch which broke off. I bought a replacement.
Putting in the clutch back today and surprisingly there no info on the torque specs on the pressure plate. After doing some research I've found 10nm plus 2nm. Roughly 90 lbs. is this correct ?
Putting in the clutch back today and surprisingly there no info on the torque specs on the pressure plate. After doing some research I've found 10nm plus 2nm. Roughly 90 lbs. is this correct ?
I paste text because the forum do not allows me to attach PDFs:
Marking (1) on double-plate clutch.
Marking (2) on dual-mass flywheel.
Installation:
Both markings (1 and 2) must be offset by 180 °(a tolerance of
10°-20°is possible) to each other.
Double-plate clutch and dual-mass flywheel are matched to
each other.
Insert all bolts.
Tighten down bolts uniformly in 1/2 turns.
Observe tightening sequence 1 to 9.
Tightening torque: 21 21 1AZ
21 21 Clutch to flywheel
Type Thread Tightening specification Measure
1AZ Clutch to flywheel S85 M6 Observe tightening
specification.
10+2 Nm
If you want the PDF, MP me with an email and I'll send them to you
Southbend clutches will re surface dual mass flywheels. I've had them do it to my Supra's dual mass flywheel, which is made by luk as well. They said the only way it needs to be balanced after, which they cannot do, is if it's really bad to start with. They said that is usually not the case.
Also, Sachs says that you can re use the flywheel for one clutch job without any problem. After that they suggest replacement. They say you should just wipe it down with an oil free rag and do not use air or chemicals to try and clean it as it might damage the rubber in it.
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