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My new (to me) e60 M5: Tire Tracks on the soul

54K views 185 replies 19 participants last post by  gmak 
#1 · (Edited)
A month ago, I purchased a 2006 M5. I will get around to posting pictures but I've been rather busy. I'm going to jump ahead to an oil change yesterday. There are enough DIYs around - including that recent video by Baneof Thoth - or whomever, so this is just a basic description of some differences.

1. I followed the BMW bulletin that suggests taking overfill oil out of the old filter; then getting a new reading (at operating temperature); and only when it is 'between min and max' to begin the oil change.

2. I used liqui-moly 10W60 - because.... Before the purists mount their Quixotic steeds, my oil changes are at max 3000km due to the fact that I like to put in lighter 'W' for winter, and that I have too many cars right now (i.e. low mileage).

3. I used a Mann filter because that is what i use on my other BMWs, and because it's not really going to make any difference over 3000km, which quality filter I use.

4. I ran the car back up to operating temperature after step 1, at idle, in order for the dry sump operation to get all the oil where it can drain.

5. I removed the main oil drain plug, and later replaced it with the Fujimoto short stem valve. I kept the plug against future disaster.

6. I drained the oil filter again, and then removed the oil filter casing - there was still oil in there and I have a new stain on my driveway. This was after 2 drains. Lesson learned - expect oil in the filter casing in the future.

7. The BMW bulletin says that 9.3 liters overfills the car, so I added 8 liters - 200 - 300 ml in the oil filter cover and the rest in the engine including 450 ml of MOS2 (because I like it. If it's good enough for fighter planes..).

8. After adding the 8 liters, I started the car and let it idle up to operating temperature, where like magic, it told me that I was at the min range.

9. I then added 900 ml more (the bulletin say 800, but whoopsy on the measurement). I remeasured the oil level at 0.9 above min. mission accomplished.


I keep the oil filter in a plastic sealable bag and sawed it apart today. This is what I found (spoiler alert: Nothing really).

The first picture shows some back spots in one section. I'm assuming the they are carbon of some kind. The second picture shows two spots that shone in the light - I'm assuming metal.

That's one clean filter, but I don't know when the oil was last changed. I'm assuming last year and that the PO didn't change this year due to the intent to sell (expect the worst and you;re never disappointed).

This thread will be a running commentary on my adventure with the wonderful car, my triumphs, my despair, and my (likely) stupidity at times. Cheers.


p.s. Homework assignment: Does anyone know for sure if the majority of those rod bearing failures - especially the early ones, were mainly in tuned or modified vehicles - or if it's really just bearing roulette at this stage (i.e. no identifying factors to help reduce the probabilities for one's own vehicle)?
 

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#2 ·
I just want to add that I was so finicky about the 'adding oil' process because when there is too much oil, the risk of cavitation increases greatly (bubbles in the oil which are death in the small spaces between rod bearings and moving metal). The original BMW bible said 9.3 liters - which often led to oil above MAX on the dash check. Hence the measured approach - in case all the oil didn't come out (unless you have that second oil drain in MY 2008+).

Now that I have a Fujimoto valve, I will be draining the oil with the car flat instead of up on ramps in the front, in the future. That way I'll be sure of getting most of it.
 
#6 · (Edited)
What is it like to own an e60 m5?

You meet this girl. She's stunning, perfect symmetry, well dressed, articulate, intelligent, and fit. She always knows the right things to say to parents and friends. Your buddies worship the ground she walks on.
She's at home in a bar with a long neck beer, crop top and jeans. She fits right in at the swankiest restaurant, dressed to the nines with the perfect little black dress.
When you're alone, she's wild. Sometimes, she's crazy wild.

And then you find out she likes to capture small animals and torture them in her basement.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Other options for the car.

First, I'll just post the option information from a VIN decoder. These are JPEG files because the BimmerWorks decoder no longer generates PDF files, that I can see.

View attachment 708897

View attachment 708905

View attachment 708913
I can't seem to edit the post. Short leash, I guess.

I'll just add that the car had (along with the RADEnergie R10 20 inch rims), HARTGE splitter and diffuser; H&R sport springs to lower it, Eisenmann axle-back oval tip exhaust (which I sold), M5 Style 166 rims (19 inch - which I sold).
 
#10 · (Edited)
You may notice that the car has a number of reflections in the pictures - which is possibly unusual given the light silverstone colour. At the end of May, I went to Luxus detailing in Ottawa and had a full detail including paint conditioning. Then they put on a coat of Gtechniq Crystal Serum. I guess that you can compare it to those women who get the eyelid tattoos and lip tattoos to always be wearing makeup. I just wouldn't use them for chip repair. I think going to a specialist for that first would have been best. Oh well. I'll take care of it sometime in the future, myself, with a little wet sanding and proper paint blending around the blemishes - and then I'll get them to do a touch up of the Gtechniq one those spots.

And yet, it's nice to see the deep coat gloss and reflections. I guess that you can compare it to those women who get the eyelid tattoos and lip tattoos to always be wearing makeup. I can't wait to polish the car, do some nano-polishing as well, followed by liquid Carnauba Wax. yum.
 
#15 · (Edited)
That insidious and mysterious E60 M5 NO CRANK - sort of FIXED.

I had this symptom. Foot on the brake, transmission in NEUTRAL, push the button.... The console lights up like a Christmas tree, like it's supposed to but no crank.

I've whined, moaned, and wailed about this in various threads - most notably here and here. This is a summary of the steps I took to debug this symptom and how it was resolved.

Threads for inspiration include the two above, and the following.
IBS idea
Replacing starter doesn't fix
Unhooked wheel speed sensor was problem
Another IBS problem
:laugh
Thread with 3 BMW documents with 3 different possible causes of this condition
Same thread. Post describing Terminal 50 CAS fault

Decent thread with good consecutive problem solving. - car not recognizing key = EWS (CAS) issues.

Dealer replaced "bad wire" = sounds like an IBS issue again - last post by different member says it was SAS (steering angle sensor) for them.

FINALLY: A thread with the CAS Terminal 50 fault code and no crank

Possibilities from all that are (in no particular order)
1. Forgetting to put car in "N"
2. IBS
3. SAS
4. CAS power issues
5. Starter
6. Loose power cable connections under hood
7. Bad battery
8. Bad battery connections
9. EWS (CAS) issues



The steps that I went through based on my research on the web.
1. Pushed start button multiple times - nothing. But there is a click (which I later confirm that it's under the hood = likely not starter).
2. Disconnected IBS - both cables - nothing; put IBS back together.
3. Opened the hood and stared at the engine - nothing
4. Went in with ISTA and looked at codes - looked like low battery but with the "Terminal 50 CAS" fault code that ISTA couldn't understand itself
5. Stepped through various ISTA procedures that I could do sitting in the car
6. Cleared fault codes
7. nothing
8. Put the CTEK trickle charger on and went away for the night. next AM = nothing
9. Disconnect IBS - nothing (Left it disconnected). Turned the headlights on - good and strong.
10. Disconnect the battery and touch the cables together to discharge any residual capacitor energy that might be keeping devices active. leave disconnected for a while. Reconnect. When trying to start, I of course get the "Enter time and date" icon, and the "do not pass" wheel on the tachometer goes all the way to 4000 RPMS - just like when there is an issue with the throttle actuator. My hypothesis is that anything that interrupted the flow of energy causes the car to be nervous about starting up. Anyways - nothing. On the second starter button push (yes, I think that prodding it a number of times will somehow change the state of the universe), the "do not pass" wheel goes bat to 6000_ RPMs - which is standard for starting. The car knows it's not in danger from the battery disconnect.
11. Tried with the key in the slot. Tried the other key in the slot. This is a desperate long shot because clearly the car recognized the key since I am able to open it using both comfort access and pushing the buttons. - nothing
12. Tried resetting the CAS module (NOT comfort access) by putting the key in the slot and pressing the start button for 30 seconds or so. - Nothing (But now I have to go back into NCS Expert and Dummy and add some of the features like folding mirrors upon locking, that seem to have disappeared now).
13. Went back and looked at the CTEK intelligent battery charger (for cold climates) and saw that it was on the 3rd light of the 8 light process. Hmmm, says I. A clue.
14. Got out a big-@ss old school battery charger that has the 14 amps or so for boosting cars. It was on AGM - so I'm assuming the E60 has an AGM battery and I didn't change it.
15. Tried to start. Nothing. Tried a bunch of times. - It started. I've seen this before on a depleted battery where it needs some time (a minute or so) on the 14 amps before cranking.
:eek :confused:

I went out for a good long drive. Voltmeter in the cigarette lighter says that the battery is being charged at 13.8V, sometimes 13.9V. Good enuff.

Parked the car and shut it off. Restarted it just to see that I could. I went and measured the battery - 12.4V. I put on the trickle charger. Next morning -= 12.6+ V. I took off the trickle charger. That evening = 12.4V. Car starts. Goes for a run.

I leave it alone overnight (no charger). Next AM 12.3V.

I'm going to continue to monitor this. I've reconnected the IBS and I"ll see what the battery says tonight. On the weekend I plan to do the remaining throttle actuator with a bottom that has ALPINA527i gears. I'll post pictures. At the same time, I will check the trio of power cable connections, including the one under the LHS Plenum.
 
#19 · (Edited)
That's how I roll. I can't handle DIYs that have a picture and a description where it's not obvious which of 50 bolts or screws the OP is referring to. I like it nice and obvious. You know - Elephant, hippopotamus, rhinoceros, mouse.

Today, I tackle the throttle actuator on bank 2. I'm going to do a visual inspection first to try to determine which actuator was actually replaced last year. I'd assume that if any work was don, that those 'one time' hose clamps would have been replaced with the t-clamps or worm gear ones. Ah. The thrill of discovery. Who knows what the mechanic said to help the PO sell the car. I suspect that there are a number of things that were not disclosed in the sale. I guess I can't keep expecting that people will be like me. You'd think that I would have learned by now.

It's my own stupidity though, for using an interview with the mechanic as a substitute for a PPI.

Electrical Gremlins continued

I've been religiously monitoring the voltage at the battery each night and morning, now with the IBS reconnected. I'm seeing around 12.4 - 12.7V at night (usually after driving the car) and then around 12.33 - 12.4 in the AM, remembering that the car wakes up when I open the trunk.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Throttle Actuator Replacement

PO'S mechanic said one of the throttle actuators had been replaced. I ordered a set of gears from Alpina527i, and they arrived recently in an actuator bottom.

Initially, I was trying to figure out which side had been replaced. The mechanic at RM Motors in Toronto wasn't responding to my queries. We'll find out why in a little bit.

TO prepare, I watched this video:
+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By2DKw0g6eI" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By2DKw0g6eI"> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=By2DKw0g6eI" /> ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.


And I read this DIY. One of my pet peeves is where there is a picture, text, and you're supposed to guess which of the 10 objects in the picture is being referred to. I've gone baby and put markers around what I'm talking about in the pictures.

This is Alpina527i deconstructing an S65 actuator - identical except for the throttle arm length and angle.


I believed that Bank 1 throttle actuator had been replaced because of the condition of the accordion tube between the intake filter and the plenum on that side.

Auto part Vehicle Car Engine Personal luxury car


While I was doing this job, a lot of plastic and rubber would be exposed. I decided to clean everything I could and treat it with Aerospace Protectant.
Motor oil Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive care Automotive tire


Here we are at the start. Fairly clean engine. Twin plenums (plenii?) and a whole lot of fidgety 6mm socket work. I made the decision to take the pieces above the firewall off, including the strut tower brace to give myself some more room.
Vehicle Car Auto part Engine Hood


To get that weird piece off that holds the two sides of the shelf above the firewall together, there is a tab that needs to be lifted up for it to slide to the LHS of the car. I've market it in this picture
Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle Car


Next, remove the cabin air filter housings. there is a plastic allen nut that needs a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to open 9it's a latch). You also have to open the lid b popping the. A long metal latch that runs on the center -facing side of the housing. A socket shows the location of the plastic nut in this picture.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Engine


I found something strange (to me). On the windshield moulding, all of the plastic rivets were missing except the center one. Here you can see the holes left behind I'm starting to not like the OP's mechanic.

Automotive exterior Vehicle door Bumper Trunk Vehicle


To remove the tow sides of the firewall shelf, one has to unlatch 3 more of the plastic nuts, by turning them c9unterclockwise with the appropriately sized allen key or socket. Then there is a small torx bolt for the final release.
Metal Auto part Tire Automotive wheel system Automotive tire


Auto part Vehicle Car Pipe Rim


Here is a shot showing where that torx bolt is located - and is the final piece to removing the LHS of the firewall shelf
Auto part Exhaust system Suspension Fuel line Vehicle


I decided to remove the strut towers' brace. Torx 45 is best for this.
Auto part Rim


And here is everything ready for the throttle clamp loosening and plenum removal.
Motor vehicle Auto part Vehicle Car Engine



Removing the intake air filter housing - I don't like fiddling with standard screwdrivers for this. I use a 1/4" socket (I believe that 6mm works as well but 1/4" is a bit looser and won't jam on the nut).
Auto part Fuel line Pipe Exhaust system Suspension



The next step is to remove what hoses one can on the plenum. This helps with access, especially to the numbers 4, 5 and 9, 10 cylinders. The big hose on the side with the spring clamp is no problem at all. The smaller hose beside it can be a PITA if you have the one-time use hose clamp. It's also usually a sign that the plenum has never been off - OR that the mechanic who did the work put everything back EXACTLY as it was found (who would put back another single use clamp but someone reading a set of instructions without thinking).

On the smaller hose, I found a single-use clamp.
Auto part


Unfortunately, there was also one on the other side. Ever had that sinking feeling that what you've been told will turn out to be a misrepresentation? I now suspected that the throttle actuators had never been replaced.

The steps I followed to get the plenum off the LHS are as follows. I'll add pictures later
1. Use pliers to squeeze the big hose clamp, and pull down gently, wiggling to have the big hose come off its nipple;
2. If you have a worm gear hose clamp on the smaller hose beside the big one, undo it and remove now. If it's the one-time use - it will be easier to access and tear off with cutters once the plenum is loose and can be moved around.
3. To take off the little hose in the back of the plenum (the one you can see in the picture DIY at the start of this post, in the picture where the plenums are off), you need two hands. I pinched the plastic ring on the head of the hose where it attaches to the plenum nipple. I used a long narrow flat screwdriver to gently lever the hose head away from the plenum until it cleared the locking points. Then the hose comes off easy. If you use pliers or similar to pinch the locking ring together, I believe that you will break the ring.
4. To loosen the throttle clamps, I used a long 1/4" socket extension, with a flexible extension on top of that and a 1/4" 6mm socket. Both joints were taped with duct tape to ensure that nothing came off. In hindsight, I might have been better off with the 1/4" socket instead of 6mm since the former wouldn't get locked on the worm gear nut as easily. The challenge here is that you can't see all of the worm gears easily. Unless you know their orientation, it becomes challenging to complete the mission
5. I was unable to get to the 10th cylinder clamp on the LHS. I'm not sure that I loosened the 8th much either. However, I used JColley's technique of leverage to lift the plenum. Instead of a broom handle, I used a old aluminum and foam carwash brush handle. It goes under the front of the plenum and rests on the metal shelf above the radiator. I liked the handle because of the foam, and because it had a bit of spring to absorb any over-zealous force on my part. It works very well. Since there are no ridges on the tops of the throttles, the rubber fitting on the plenum seems to be able to come off without loosening (the 8 and 10 cylinders on the LHS). Perhaps these weren't tightened that well to start with - I don't know.
6. There is a big hose with a plastic pinch ring at the front of the plenum that needs to be removed.
7. Now I was able to pivot the plenum enough to get at the one-time hose clamp on that little hose on the back outside of the plenum. I squeezed and gently twisted back and forth a little bit so as not to break the nipple, nor tear the hose. Eventually, the metal clamp does tear and separate. Then, it's a matter of using plastic trim tools and thin screwdrivers to gradually pry the clamp (which is usually embedded in the rubber) off of the hose.

Here is a picture of the LHS plenum off. It's easier than the other side for the simple reason that it is not encumbered in the back by a plastic structure that holds the DME wiring and cabling. I'll come back later with pictures showing the orientation of the throttle clamps and other steps needed - don't have pictures yet
Engine Auto part Vehicle Car Hood




Here is the engine with both plenums off.
Engine Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part Car


Which actuator was previously replaced?
Spoiler Alert: Neither. The PO's mechanic mis-remembered. :eek
Here is a picture of the Bank 2 (LHS) actuator top. I'm the world's worst cameraman, but somehow I got this clear and legible. Notice the date marked off in red. The other side, which I had to read to my wife using a magnifying glass (no way the phone was going in that small space) was 20051124. :frown Both original in this 2006/02 production vehicle.
Auto part


I had to make a choice and chose to replace the gears in the bank 2 actuator because they looked more worn, and there was still some dirt around the bolts of that actuator that suggested it had never been taken out. See here: This is bank 2. That shadow around the heads of the bolt is grease / dirt.
Light Automotive lighting Darkness Headlamp Auto part


here is bank 1. It's hard to see the difference, but the bolt heads were **** 'n' span, leading me to think that (somehow) this actuator had been out of the car - in spite of the 2005/11 production date. I suspect that the gears had been changed - given the non-existent amount of wear. There was some dust on the inside walls (white plastic) that I cleaned off. I think that this actuator will fail in the future - but caught with only one set of gears due to poor information and a bad decision, I have no choice but to button everything up and hope for the best.
Auto part Steering part Steering wheel Vehicle


Here are some pictures of the bank 2 actuator innards. First, in all it's failing glory.
Auto part


Here, with the white gear wheel out, you can clearly see the damaged teeth on the half-moon gear. Notice how they have been reduced to pointed teeth instead of oval - with much larger gaps between them.
Auto part Machine Clutch Gear Gauge


This is the little gear wheel on the underside of the big white gear wheel that goes against the half moon gear. See all of that crap on the teeth? I believe that that is material from the damaged area of the half-moon gear. So long as it is there - the actuator works within parameters. When that crap starts coming off (and possibly doing a number on the circuit board), the gears no longer work as they should. In other words, it is that half-moon gear 'sawdust' that permits the damaged teeth to still work, keeping the actuator within parameters in the start up test, IMHO.
Gear Auto part
 

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#21 ·
Well, It seems that I can't edit that post anymore. When I get the chance, I'll post some photos in a new post showing the positioning of the throttle body hose clamps on the plenums, along with the angles of entry for the extended 6mm socket to loosen and tighten them.

In the meantime, I think I discovered something about the throttle actuator - but I'm not sure. When I tested the TAs using ISTA, I had errors on both banks. 2B21 and 2B22 - failing the pre-start test. I took the TAs out, took them apart, and did something. Then I put it all back together, and everything worked. For a while. Now I have a 2B22, with is the pre-test fail on bank 2. However, I have discovered (bozo, me) that I have the S65 ball joint and need to take the one off of my old TA and swap it onto this new-to-me one. I'll do that tonight and then we'll see. Good thing that I haven't mailed the core back to Alpina yet, or It would be a long wait for snail mail both ways across the pond. :D

I'm going to put my S85 ball joint on and see if there is any difference. I'll also open up the TAs again and check on that something again. I'm not saying anything because this could all just be a coincidence, and it's something so stupidly simple that it can't possibly be a solution to certain issues and I don't want to be the idiot who proposes something ludicrous that was only a coincidence. But for 5 mnutes last night, I felt like Dr. Fleming.
 
#29 ·
Well, It seems that I can't edit that post anymore. When I get the chance, I'll post some photos in a new post showing the positioning of the throttle body hose clamps on the plenums, along with the angles of entry for the extended 6mm socket to loosen and tighten them.
Of course, there is a delay in doing these photos since they will have to wait for a successful TA install. I'll take them when I button everything up.
 
#22 ·
Well, swapped the little lever to be S85 instead of S65. Did a few things, and I now have bank 2 working fully including the component exercise in ISTA where it holds the throttle open for 20s. Not so on bank 1. I still get 2B21 (pre-test fault) and now I get 2B5B - throttle valves faults, whatever that means. Things keep flip-flopping from bank 1 to bank 2 suggesting that it is something that I am causing, and therefore have control over the ultimate outcome (I hope).

More investigation tonight. I want to figure out how to get the bank 1 TA out of the bank 2 side without removing the bank 2 TA (why tempt fate given that the fault codes fluctuate everytime something is taken out). Then I'll check the bank 1 TA to see if I did something not quite right.
 
#23 ·
Summary of Throttle Actuator fails to date

SUMMARY:

1. Car worked fine. Once in a blue moon it would go into limp mode on startup;
2. Replaced the gears in TA-2. Get 2B21 and 2B22 errors. Huh?
2.5 Tried something - no errors. then errors came back. Double Huh?
3. Take both TAs out, look inside, put back in place - now only 2B22 error. This is getting interesting. Error condition affected by taking out and reinstalling TASs.
4. Take both TAs out, look inside, Put S85 ball level on TA-2; put back in place - now only 2B21 error; but also 2B5B error. Wow. A flip-flop on the error condition from TA-2 to TA-1. Could it be related to the ball joint lever somehow?

Sure seems like I'm doing something with the errors moving around like that. This should be fixable.
 
#24 ·
I've got the two TAs working - sort of.

Codes were gone. And... I did the component triggering for both banks - 20 second open test. Here are the pics.
Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Metal


Engine Auto part Automotive engine part Metal


However.....
When doing Bank 1 trigger - at the end of it, the half-engine limp mode icon came up. It seems that the bank is closing a little slow. Sure enough, I push on the lever for Bank 2 - wham - bam; Push on the lever for Bank 1 - wham, cloooooooooose; about twice as slow.

Here is the interesting question, then. Do I need to tighten the spring for the half moon gear? Or.... do you think it might be the graphite lube that I put in, that dries? :wink

I'm going to take Bank 1 TA out one more time and clean all the graphite off and see if it's back to its snappy self. If not..... maybe wind the spring one more twist? Could it be something to do with the motor and carbon crap on its side (shouldn't affect the motor bearing though, right?)

1. Clean up gears in bank 1 and test; if good, stop.
2. Do something something with spring?

Through all this, I've tried a couple of things - but I can't be sure that what I did fixed the codes, or if maybe there was some plug that wasn't in right. At least I figured out how to get TA1 out with TA2 still in place.
 
#25 ·
The problem came back to TA-1. The new gears (and complete bottom) are on TA-2. BTW - if you run the system test on the TAs and one side works, the results come back clean for both sides - leading to misleading conclusions. Somehow, having the circuit board connected up slows the return time of the gears (and therefore the throttles) and leads to a fault.

1. TA-1 with the circuit board off. Returns to starting point rather rapidly, no?
2. I've put small wire probes into the two connections on the circuit board. I then attach the alligator clips to the big flat connectors (to the motor) in the TA-1
3. I do the lever / gear thing AND LOOK HOW SLOW THE GEARS RETURN TO STARTING POINT.

All I can think of is that the big-@ss capacitor in the circuit board cover has a charge and that it is powering the motor somehow - with the results that cause the errors on start up test.

+ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ayekf_xSDCY" title="View this video at YouTube in a new window or tab" target="_blank">YouTube Video
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So what does this mean? Faulty motor? (If so, can someone please tell me how to get the motor out to take a look?). Faulty circuit board sending a signal to the motor which slows down the return?

Any ideas from all the geniuses and experienced fold on this board. I know you're out there. I can hear you breathing.
 
#28 ·
Sure. Come join me in my private hell. :devil

This has got to be one of the worst-designed (and built) high-end cars ever. I don't care if it's the "last of the V10s". I should have had a V8 - nice E39 M5, imola red, 200K km owned by an "enthusiast" - mint. Now I'm stuck with this gorgeous chick who likes to trap and torture small animals. :|
 
#27 · (Edited)
Here is where matters stand.

1. TA-2 is operating fine with the Alpina527 gears and the TA bottom he sent with them.
2. TA-1 with a general clean up and stuff opens fine when doing the "component triggering" in ISTA, but closes slowly (1/2 the speed of TA-2), generating a fault and limp mode.
3. TA-1 has a condition where, with no power in the circuit at all, but having the motor contacts connected by wire to a detached circuit board, it resists returning to the rest or valve closed stage when the gears are cycled to the end and released. (shown in the video in post #25)
4. I have a new VDO TA on the way (at a very attractive price, shipped) from spareto dot com. It won't get here until next week because tomorrow is a holiday for them.

Plan of attack:
1. Put the old TA-2 back together (I owe Alpina527 the gears) and see if it has the same behaviour using the same circuit board.
2. Tap out the motors from TA-1 and the old TA-2 and visually inspect them (not sure what this will accomplish as I'm not familiar with the motors, but at least there will be observations and possibly pictures)
3. I'm loathe to take the new TA-2 circuit board and try it on the TA-1 bottom. Same goes for the new TA-1 that's on the way. I'm superstitiously afraid that somehow there will be a contamination (I know. I know) and I will have no working TAs.
4. Possibly send some of the kit to someone more knowledgeable than me for circuit board investigation.
 
#30 · (Edited)
New TA (VDO arrives)

Interior looks exactly like the old TA bottom, except new. No apparent change to the gears.

Here is a picture of the two circuit boards. Different markings on the main chip. Silicone /shellac (or whatever it is) is discoloured brown in the old one. Don't know if this is just age, or heat. There are also two "chips" that look brown in one picture and are black in the other. I think that they were originally white and the discoloured coating is showing the colour.

Also, if you look to the left of the 'main chip', there is a metal piece marked 16000.0; the resistors below seem to have different markings, which I understand to mean that they are different levels. It could be just the discolouration on the old circuit board - but it definitely seems that there are some differences, including one below the 16000.0 piece that is reversed (not that that makes any difference in DC, I believe - It's been decades since I knew any of this stuff).
As well, at the bottom of the board where there are the two black chips with the asterisk at 11 o'clock, the resistor in the middle to the right is either different, or in backwards as well.
Further, the two resistors at the very top of the board seem different between the old and new.
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The old TA had a lever slow return when the lever was pushed by hand to - with no power (i.e. out of the car). The new TA returns fast.

I swapped circuit boards. The slow return behaviour followed the old circuit board. My hypothesis is that there is some kind of short in the board - but only in one direction. When the TA motor contacts are short, it is difficult to move the lever in both directions - i.e. hard to push and a slow return to rest. Since the bad circuit board lets the lever be pushed easily, but has a slow return, it seems that the short is only active in the return direction - and not as full an effect as shorting the terminals.

The new TA will go in this morning and I hope that I have time to take pictures of the throttle clamps and their positioning.
 
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