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E60 M5 Push Start Help

15K views 42 replies 10 participants last post by  SHOCKED 
#1 ·
Hello, I have a 2006 M5 with about 118K miles on it. Here recently it has started intermittently not responding when I push the start button. I purchased a scanner but no codes are thrown. Where should I start looking? I have to insert the key in the column, wiggle the shifter pump the throttle, pray then it might start. If it doesn't start after all of that I will exit the car use the remote and lock the doors. Once I renter the car it usually starts. Extremely annoying.... also what is the key holder in the glove box used for?


Open to any suggestions, thanks for your time reading my post.
 
#2 · (Edited)
Your scanner probably will not pull codes from the CAS module. There is most likely a code stored there. This typically happens as a result of a poor connection somewhere in the positive leads. Check the positive battery terminal, The positive jump start point under the good, the plastic coated nut next to the bank two ionic module, and the plastic coated nut on the left side of the engine wiring harness casing under the intake Plenum
 
#4 ·
Not a carbureted car so no pumping of throttle needed. Just push to neutral and push start.

Does the transmission go to Neutral? If not, do you hear the SMG pump running when you unlock it? When you say "it doesn't start" do you mean it's cranking but doesn't fire? Or not cranking at all? Does the cluster light up?

Glove box slot is for the dummy key that you use with the valet key IIRC.
 
#5 ·
Lay3r3, Thanks for the response.


Transmission always goes to neutral, the SMG pump does fire up when the door is opened. To clarify when I push the start button with the brake pedal applied, the car dash cluster and radio comes on, wheel moves down into place, but no cranking of the motor.


Car seems to do it more if it sits for longer than 24 hours.
 
#9 ·
That's bank 2 throttle actuator. It's failing. Do you have DIS software to diagnose? If you're handy, you can replace it in about 4-5 hours for the first timers.
I had the same code. I ended up replacing both throttle actuators.

I have one good used throttle actuator for sale if interested.
 
#10 ·
I do not have DIS software, but I have cleared that code a bunch here lately. Confident I can swap it out in my garage. My concern is if I put the actuator in it still won't fix the starting issue.


Where did you purchase your replacements, are you flexible on your used actuator. I can't send PMs yet, under the post count.
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
Update. Car finally died couple weeks ago. I traced back the voltage all the way to the starter and had 11.7-11.9 volts. I am taking the battery today to make sure it is still good. I have a starter waiting to be installed and the car is torn down to the throttle bodies. Is it possible to get the starter out from the top? Looks like it is very tight between the firewall and the starter. Can anyone give some pointers on the best way to remove the starter?
 
#15 ·
Measure the voltage at the starter solenoid while someone else presses the start button. The do the same at the battery terminal while someone presses the start button.

Both times you will see voltage drop. If it drops much lower at starter than it does at battery, the battery isn't the problem, the wiring is.
 
#21 ·
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#23 ·
The M6 board doesn't have as much going on but almost all the motor/tranny issues relate which is why I spend so much time harassing the e60 forum :wink BUT, there are occasionally things covered over there that you won't find here.

Glad it helped.

:cheers:

Jim
 
#24 ·
If I were you, check resistance going through each B+ point. I was getting all the voltage I needed to the starter, and was ready to replace my second one when I found 8.5 ohms of resistance at the B+ connection near the #2 Ionic Sensor. Even though everything looked fine, after wiring brushing it, the beast cranked over. Something to check before you spend a week and a half swearing and becoming an alcoholic like I did.
-Matt
 
#28 ·
Update,


Worked on the car this weekend, I have ordered and bought special tools trying to get the starter out from the top. Unfortunately the clearance is to small, looks like I might have to tow it to the dealer after all. I did hook up the new starter to the wiring and when I pushed the start button the starter clicked the gear out like it wanted to engage the fly wheel, but it didn't spin the gear after it engaged. I assume it wouldn't turn it because I have almost every wire unhooked on the upper harness. The current starter doesn't even click. I will attempt this one more time tonight with a new T12 low profile bit should arrive today. I haven't jacked the car up yet, but is there a way with some very long extensions and swivels you can reach the bolts from the bottom without removing the transmission?


Thanks again for everyone's help and input.
 
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