I've started on my rod bearings change and would like to answer any questions that you guys may have. I've been running out of time this week but will be doing a video that starts at the dropping of the sub-frame.
I did mine on two axle stands in my dads garage. Was a fairly big job, but most definitely do-able if you have a bit of mechanical know-how. I don't think many UK owners have changed their own, DIY, so happy to be of that minority. Definitely requires a few beers cherrsagaiPeople who do this job at home, I give you 2 thumbs up! I watched my Indy do this and there is no way in hell I'd do this at home. I don't think it's the most difficult task per say, but having the patience and the proper tools would just kill me.
Document all your findings and what to watch out for as it'll be useful for people who do this at home.
Dan
Right now, my car is on a scissor lift, but this could very well be done in your garage on jack stands. You just need to make sure the car is elevated enough to give you room to work and you have a jack to lower the subframe without dropping it. I'm using Gas-Man's tutorial and help from JColley and other people on the board. I definitely want to contribute back to the forum what it has given me. If you're buying parts, I definitely recommend the ARP rod bolts so you don't have to fret about torque settings like on the stock bolts.Ian, are you using a lift or putting the car on jack stands? Gas-Man's tutorial is excellent but a video to go along with it will help big time. Watching someone perform a task while reading the procedure makes performing the task yourself less frightening. Looking forward to watch |Rod Bearing Removal|Torquing of the Rod Bolts|Setup/Use of test indicator to set Vanos Gear Backlash|Steps Performed on the computer ISTA/DIS/INPA|
It's definitely not a single day project if it's your first time, but the second day of working on it, it was fun. I'd be farther ahead if I didn't have a coil pack break in half on my car. I had to remove the valve cover to get to it. It's definitely not as hard yet as I thought it would be, but I start removing the sub frame on Thursday. You really only need two specialized tools: A dial indicator, and a dial indicator base. I'm using a magnetically based indicator base. Most everything else, you can do with basic tools. I'm not afraid to say that if I still had my garage I could do it in there. Don't doubt yourself. I may be mechanically inclined, but I'm no mechanic. This is me getting my start on real engine maintenance.People who do this job at home, I give you 2 thumbs up! I watched my Indy do this and there is no way in hell I'd do this at home. I don't think it's the most difficult task per say, but having the patience and the proper tools would just kill me.
Document all your findings and what to watch out for as it'll be useful for people who do this at home.
Dan
I've never heard that. Do you have a source? Would be good for me to know. Thanks!I thought the primary thing with the oem bolts is that the torque and untorque procedure sets the bolt in firmly at the proper stretch which holds the torque for the "life" of the engine. Whereas the non-stretch ARP bolts are assumed to be retorqued or at least checked every so many thousands of miles because they aren't stretched so prone to loosening over time. So great on an engine that is rebuilt regularly (ie racing engine) but not great for when you plan to seal the bottom end up for 65,000 miles or more. I may be thinking of a different bolt that was discussed though.
Congrats, man! I'm no expert, and don't claim to be. I'm just an average Joe, trying to take initiative and get others on the bandwagon. Some people get scared of these projects, but some of my friends own Lambos and Ferraris and they are doing complete Engine Out's and way more extensive things than rod bearings on a German Car. I would definitely wait to get a garage to start on something like this. It's not something that you can just do in a few hours. I'm sure that there are lots of things that haven't been figured out yet, that need to be.I am new to owning a 2007 E63 and am looking at doing my own maintenance in the future. Right now I'm that guy living in a downtown loft with no room and or little know how. It is very encouraging knowing that people are sharing their knowledge and experience! With a little patience and a garage space I look forward to contributing to the community myself in the future!
I did this a few months ago using Gas-Man's instructions, which were awesome.
A few notes:
1) Not sure you have to take the intake off. The engine lift hook on the passenger side is clearly exposed without that, and the bolt in the side of the head on the driver's side can also be easily accessed with the intake on. If I did it again I'd attempt this, since the intake removal/replacement is probably 20% of the work.
2) I did it without a lift. I jacked up the front of the car and put jack stands on huge wood blocks, so the front jack pads were about 24" off the ground. I then put the rear tires on drive-up ramps, about 15" tall. This ended up being a really nice height to work on the car, especially under it when on a creeper.
3) Has anyone noticed that BMW lets you re-use the rod bolts, and if you do, you don't need to re-torque? I didn't end up doing this since I had already bought them, but it's something to consider.
Link to S85 Rod bolt torques
Note it lists both the torque and the torque for new...