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2007 M5 ESS Supercharger Questions

5K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  cfrishman 
#1 ·
Hello, new to the board. I have an e60 M5 six speed that i have torn apart for a throttlebody actuator and a power steering pump. The car has 68k miles on it and im thinking about ordering the ESS Tuning blower kit for it. With the current mileage would this be a bad idea?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Before the supercharger I did the rod bearings. Weeks later I installed the ESS blower kit
Do a search on rod bearings. In a nut shell bad rod bearings can lead to engine damage. No good if your supercharged motor fails.

It may seem like an extra $2-3k for no reason but it gives peace of mind that your motor will take the extra beating from the blower
 
#7 ·
Definately change 'Rod' bearings first (or Big ends as we call them here in Europe). I'm at 66k and mine are showing signs of failure. It's a weak point in the S85.
 
#8 ·
I say while your in there it only makes sense to hit 2 birds with 1 stone. Even 3 personally I'd change the vanos high pressure line as well since the oil pan is already out. And then preventive won't exist in your s85.
 
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#10 ·
I've also had thoughts about putting an ess blower on my car. My car's at 82k miles with original RBs and I would without a question change the RBs at the same time the blower's being put on. There's nothing worse (well kinda) than putting all that money into the ess install and blowing your motor. Makes no sense. I may be going down this path in the next few months if I decide to do this.

Dan
 
#12 ·
Anyone in the Midwest that could install a supercharger on my car? I'd be willing to drive to Chicago, but prefer near Fort Wayne, IN!
 
#13 ·
I had my blower installed at 74k and did not change my RBs until 20k later. I posted pics of the bearings when I had my engine work done and they were not as bad as others I have seen posted on here.
 
#23 ·
Definitely change your rod bearings, these are from today @ 54,9XX miles, seeing some copper on the uppers.

Craig
cfrishman, who did your install? Was it a shop locally? I am looking to get mine done soon. Thanks.
 
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#17 ·
I have never done a BS report, but my gut instinct was to do it early since I do not know if the first two owners changed the oil frequently and warmed the car up properly before getting on it. I also had the vanos line replaced, and they found the plastic timing chain guide had a hairline fracture so it is getting replaced, and since they pulled the spark plugs, new ones are going in. I cannot wait to get the beast back on Friday or Monday! Since it is getting a new oil pan, I also got the Fumoto engine oil drain valves so the pan never gets stripped again.
 
#19 ·
I am at a loss why the usa have all these problems and only a handful in the UK and Europe, changing the rod bearings are a waste of time as it will only happen again, the damage could be caused by the initial run in period, over reving or not allowing the engine to warm correctly, there are mega mile M5s in europe still on the original bearings, also. The original M5 ring cars thrashed everyday and had many suspension problems etc but no signs of the bearings falling apart, problem is the rods sits on the oil not the bearing i think what we need is an M5 guru to say do this method, use these shells and all will be great, but if someone is going to change them perhap they could do a test with XADO 1st they will possibly sponsor if they are contacted and see if the worn bearings come out coated! Just a thought
 
#22 ·
I'm in the UK - my E60 M5 is currently on 66k, and I went to change the oil/filter after 4k (early change for a track day). The filter housing had a considerable amount of copper particles in it, which is a typical indication of bearing wear. Luckily, the engine has had no running issues or knocking/noises so it looks like i've got lucky and caught it in time. There are plenty of other members in the EU that have had similar experiences. The car is parked up at the moment, and I will be doing the work later this month.

Like you, I thought the bearing issue "wouldn't happen to me", but I was wrong. Looking at my service history, it would appear that the car has been 'over serviced' in terms of oil changes, and since i've had it, i've changed the oil every 5k maximum. I do drive it hard, but always maintain it accordingly.

Personally, i'm a bit dissapointed the engine has this weakness. After this, I definately wouldn't touch a 60k+ mile used E60 M5 unless I factor in bearing change costs after buying.
 
#24 ·
Autoscandia in Herndon, Scott did them. After the weekend I will post up some pics of the job, and a video of him setting the backlash. He did an awesome job, super detailed and organized. I also had the Vanos high pressure line replaced (the one in the pan) as well. So glad to have that out of the way!:smile

Craig
 
#25 ·
Thanks, what did it set you back?
 
#26 · (Edited)
My oil pan was stripped out from the shop near my home that did the oil change. So they offered to pay another shop to do the work, and for a new oil pan. I chose Autoscandia. So I paid the difference for the labor for rod bearings and vanos line, and parts needed such as a new timing chain guide, screws for cover on bottom, and various other things. He pulled the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crank, so I had new ones over nighted for 131 from ECSTuning to go back in. I got my ARP bolts, WPC treated bearing, and vanos line and copper gaskets from Auto Talent shipped for 1089. I got a new oil pan with 2 drain plugs compliments of the shop that stripped my pan, and got 2 Fumoto F-109 engine oil drain valves for 59 from Amazon, The (2) 5 quart Mobil 1 0W40 from Wallmart for about 55, oil filter from Olympus Auto Parts for 18. I paid 1144 for Labor. The shop that stripped my pan had to pay 16 hrs of labor. So it worked out that I probably got the best deal on the board for someone who did not do the job themselves. I think their labor rate is 99 an hour, which is the best you will find.

Craig

:smile
 
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