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DIY: Transmission fluid flush

123K views 101 replies 44 participants last post by  ebid  
#1 · (Edited)
I changed my transmission fluid today following Clyde's instructions. I was having some major hesitation when taking off in first gear, and shifting between every gear I had a pause between shifts. But now after changing the fluid everything is normal again. I gave her the Euro launch and she loves it again!

Thank you Clyde, I also wanted to add a few pictures and some additional details:

Below are Clyde's Notes: My notes are in blue.

The job can be done on jack stands, but it's not very comfortable squeezing under the car.

Off the top of my head, here are the steps:

1. Remove the black plastic panel under the bumper. Many screws and 4 nuts. The 4 Nuts are 13mm
2. Remove the black plastic panel under the engine. Many screws. Use a drill and removing the panels will take 5 minutes.
3. The transmission oil cooler is mounted on the side of the transmission, with flexible oil lines. A bolt (5mm allen) holds the cooler in place. Remove the bolt, and the cooler can be shifted toward the rear of the car and down out of the way. The cooler lines stay attached. But you will also need to disconnect one connector attached to the cooler, see pic. Before you remove the cooler use 22mm wrench and loosen the filter nut. Other wise you will fight it while it's hanging there.
4. The drain and fill plugs should be accessible (8mm short allen socket). Torque 30 lb-ft
4.1. Break the fill plug free first and then the drain. That way you know you can at least fill it again when you are done draining it. The fill plug is tight to access, I ended up putting a 8mm allen wrench and then used a adjustable wrench to break it free. See pic for example.
4.2 Drain fluid, replace washer with new crush washer. Tight to 30lbs.
5. There is a screen filter on the cooler (22mm socket), which should be removed and cleaned. Torque 18 lb-ft. I cleaned it by using compressed air and blowing it clean. Do not forget to add a new washer
6. Fill transmission with new fluid. 3 quart bottles will be enough. You end up using 2.8 bottles. Once it starts spilling out the fill hole you are done. Put a new crush washer on and tighten to 30lbs. I could not get a torque wrench up there so I hand tightened it.
7. Reassemble the black plastic panels and you are good to go.


Some part numbers:
83220309031 transmission fluid, I used Redline MTL
07119963300 transmission washer (3 needed, both plugs and filter)

Some useful parts diagrams from realoem:
RealOEM.com BMW E63 M6 GS7S47BG Transmission oil cooler
RealOEM.com BMW E63 M6 GS7S47BG seals/mounting parts

Tools Needed:
8mm allen socket
8mm allen wrench
5mm socket
6mm socket
8mm socket
13mm socket
Breaker bar
screw driver or bit
torque wrench

Details on Pics:
1. Tools used
2. Bolt to loosen Trans cooler
3. Connector to remove on cooler
4. Cooler pulled back
5. Drain bolt & fill bolt
6. Breaking trans fill bolt free if you do not have short 8mm socket
7. Draining
8. Happy Helga
9. Dirty Cooler filter
10. Clean Cooler filter
 

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#4 ·
Its on the end of the trans cooler. If you see the pic of tha Gettag pump, it's on the end of that. It's easy to spot when the cooler is still attached to the transmission.
 
#7 ·
That's up to you. But you have some choices. Their is the obvious BMW's, Redline, Royal Purple, Pentosin, LubMoly. You cannot really go wrong with any of those. But what I learned was the importance of staying on top of regular maintenance and changing fluids regularly.
 
#9 ·
4. The drain and fill plugs should be accessible (8mm short allen socket). Torque 30 lb-ft
4.1. Break the fill plug free first and then the drain. That way you know you can at least fill it again when you are done draining it. The fill plug is tight to access, I ended up putting a 8mm allen wrench and then used a adjustable wrench to break it free.
Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive Drain Plug Socket Set
I can't verify the Harbor Freight 8mm is short enough to allow clearance to access the fill plug, since I used an even shorter Facom socket (part number D.107-8)
Ultimate Garage sells the Facom Drain Plug Socket, but the single socket is more expensive than the Harbor Freight set.
 

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#14 ·
thanks for the info on the socket sets. Just to add to this thread I found that when I did this job a couple weeks ago I figured out that the wiring harness that runs along side the fill plug is held by clip so all you have to do is push it straight up and it will pop out of the clip and then its out of the way. So if you dont have the short sockets dont worry about it for this job but Im sure youll need them for something else.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Clyde, for 16.99 you can't go wrong, I am going to grab a set. With a drain plug socket that would make is a piece of cake.
 
#11 ·
added to DIY master
 
#23 ·
Its on the end of the trans cooler. If you see the pic of the Gettag pump, it's on the end of that. It's easy to spot when the cooler is still attached to the transmission. It's a larger black bolt, I forget the size but its on the end of the cooler. You can't miss it.
 
#24 ·
Just did it on lunch today (there is an auto center nearby you can rent lift space from) and it took about an hour and a half, for the first time ever having been under this car.

A couple of notes:

- You don't have to remove the front most engine cover from the bottom. I took out all the 8mm bolts to release it from the rear cover, but never removed the 13mm bolts and dropped the front cover itself.

- If you removed the large round plug (SMG motor I think?) from its clip holder and drop it down and to the center of the car just a tad, you can get a regular 8mm allen socket (mine are Husky from Home Depot) and torque wrench on it if you go in with it about 30 degrees from vertical in the forward direction.

- torquing the filter bolt is also tricky with the cooler dropped, but theres no way I can think of to verify the torque if you bolt the cooler up first.

- finally, as shown in the first pictures of this thread, support the cooler with something while it is hanging just as you would a brake caliper. Plenty of evidence on my car of bad shop practices when I dropped the cooler and found bent radiator fins from a wrench. I suspect many people who have to replace fittings and crush washers on these cooler lines are a result from mechanics letting them dangle when they did the initial fluid changes on the car.

Finally, I'm amazed at the attention to detail and engineering in the underbody design. Anyone else notice the little barge board/strakes about 2 inches long to divert air into the cooler inlet?
 
#29 ·
Mesa Performance in Costa Mesa carries all of the Redline products.
 
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#28 ·
Either Redline 75-80 or 75-90 will work fine. I put in 75-90 just for extra protection. Been using Redline engine, tranny and diff oils in all my cars for 15 years, great stuff and won't break down and adds like 50 hp easy!
 
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#32 ·
No computer hook up necessary. It's a basic fluid change, drain and fill, that's it. Won't take more than 30 min to do.
 
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#33 ·
No computer hook up necessary. It's a basic fluid change, drain and fill, that's it. Won't take more than 30 min to do.
Reason I ask is because a member posted this:

"when you want to do it right you must connect your car to a tester (DIS or INPA) and when the oil is out you must activate the oil pump from the transmission and 200 ml comes also out who is in the lines"<!-- google_ad_section_end -->


But I guess this doesn't reset anything or change anything. Its just to get a little more oil out.
 
#34 ·
That is correct, that procedure is just to remove the remaining fluid in the lines.

Remaining true to the spirit of a DIY, none of us have any computers or scanners at home to hook up to the beast and prime the pump. So, the next best thin is to drain and refill. Drive the car for a week or two and then drain and refill again. By then you will have removed 95% of the old fluid.
 
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#35 ·
That is correct, that procedure is just to remove the remaining fluid in the lines.

Remaining true to the spirit of a DIY, none of us have any computers or scanners at home to hook up to the beast and prime the pump. So, the next best thin is to drain and refill. Drive the car for a week or two and then drain and refill again. By then you will have removed 95% of the old fluid.

Ahh gotcha! thanks! im under warranty but I hate when my dealer does work and most dealers for that matter. Im very anal with my car and they always make a mess and do work just ok.

its a pretty straight forward easy job so ill just do it myself. lil extra oil in the lines is nothing as most of the dirty heavy oil will remain at the bottom. or in the filter.
 
#36 ·
This is something my M5 most definitely will benefit from, thanks for the write-up and pics.
 
#37 ·
Real quick, does the redline transmission fluid work for SMG transmissions? Also, how did you add the fluid? Does not look like there is enough room from the pictures posted.