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Replacing throttle actuator motor with pics

DIY: 
131K views 159 replies 54 participants last post by  Alan Arnesen 
#1 · (Edited)
Failing throttle actuators are quite common on the S85,so here is a DIY.

I am NOT liable if you screw up your car or health in any way following this DIY!


It is necessary to carry out initializing of the new throttle motor using DIS or ISTA after the replacement.



First,disconnect battery.

I also removed the micro filters and the panels for easier access to the back of the air boxes(it is possible to remove the vacuum lines without removing the panels,but it is easier when they are removed).

Then remove the air filter boxes(open the clamps on the air filter boxes,disconnect the MAFs and open the clamps of the pipes going into the air boxes)




Then disconnect the hoses on the back sides of the air boxes,the breather hoses on the sides and the hoses for the idle air in the front.

Use a flexible screw driver with a 6mm socket to open the clamps that attach the air boxes to the throttle bodies and remove the air boxes.



Cover butterflies with a cloth to protect debris falling in them.


Remove the bolt in the front and nut in the rear that hold the wiring loom down(tightening torque 10NM)



In the pic above the two vacuum hoses connecting to the air boxes are also visible.

Next is removing the plus wire coming from the jump starting point on bank1 as well as the second plus wire on the terminal(plasitc nut,see pic below,17mm socket,25NM tightening torque) and the cover of the ionic current unit on bank 2(10mm socket,tightening torque 10NM).

Also remove the bolt for the wiring loom(see pic below,10mm socket,tightening torque 10 NM)



Next disconnect the two plugs on the bank2 wiring loom side(mark then to connect the right ones again)



Disconnect also the bank 1 connector




Disconnect the throttle linkage of the actuator you replace(pry gently with a screw driver between linkage and ball pin of actuator) and remove the electrical connector.



The actuator has 3 bolts that attach it to the engine(10mm socket,tightening torque 10NM).

By moving the wiring loom carefully,it is possible to remove the bolts.




It is a bit tricky to remove and install the new actuator as it is very tight between the throttle bodies and the wiring loom.

But being careful,it is possible without breaking anything.

New actuator:



Assemble in opposite order to removing.

I usually leave the air filter boxes and air boxes away when initializing the new actuator.
This way also it is possible to see if everything works.



After everything is done,get yourself a beer and call it a day.:cheers:

I would estimate it takes about 3-4h for the first timer.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Great! send it to DIY thread.
 
#3 ·
+1. Post in DIY thread.
 
#4 ·
will add. Good DIY (though slightly advanced for the novice).

vantaam5, can you host the pics here rather than imageshack?
 
#8 ·
Hmmm, that car looks strangely familiar...
 
#15 ·
I ended up finding the procedure in DIS and initilized the new part... it's been flawless since I put it in... I also found a place that supposedly fixed the messed up actuators for $80, haven't had time to send it in but it might be worth a shot to have a working spare in the garage

here's the link:

5WK49066 A2C53032056 A2C53046176 13627834494 | Autotek Electronics
 
#17 ·
Hi,

Thanks for your post regarding the throttle actuator. After having not initialized the new actuator have you been running smoothly since. I dont want to have to buy software etc for no reason. I have all the errors you had and pulled the codes and think I am having the same issue.

Thanks, Tim
 
#23 ·
did you clear the error codes? If you didn't, clear them in inpa... and then turn the car on and see if you get codes again... some people have said you don't need to activate the new actuators and haven't had a problem. Would be worth a shot.
 
#25 ·
I think it's not letting me activate anything in DIS or even test the throttle actuators because I do not have a battery charger attached. That's the error I receive when trying to test the actuators and when I try to activate them it says error ecu conditions not correct..... What are your thoughts on placing the gears from the new throttle actuator inside of the body of my old one to see if it accepts the new piece instead of having to deal with the programming side of things? I'm running out of ideas
 
#28 ·
The battery charger has not been helping but now I am only getting an error that says that there is a communication fault between the DME unit and the throttle actuator bank 1 (not the one I replaced) I want to check all the connections etc to make sure there are no lose clips or wires, but I feel like there won't be...
 
#32 ·
both air boxes

Hi
I have been looking on this thread as I am going to remove my throttle actuator bank 1 ( drivers side on RHD model ) but was wondering if i need to really remove both air boxes or if i can just remove the one on bank 1 side . I am having real trouble getting to the clamps to release this air box as the sockets all seem to be facing away , so would rather not waste time taking off both sides if not necessary
many thanks
Mark
 
#33 · (Edited)
Hi Mark,

The air boxes are the least of your worries so be prepared to hold onto your hat haha. I just replaced both of mine and repeated the process about 4-5 times after realizing they both needed replacing. You will need to remove the air boxes as well as both sides of the intake manifold, you will need an extra long screwdriver and a bendable screw driver as well. Take the time to learn your way around while the hood is popped and don't be afraid to use a little elbow grease....you will be needing that as well.

Best of luck
 
#34 ·
thanks primalmale
i have been having a little look around under there already , and it looks a bit tight
I had already looked at that thread with the pics but as I was only changing one actuator ( hopefully ) then was thinking i might get away with removing just one air box ?
any chance do you think ?
just found out its going to pour with rain today and as i am doing this work on the drive , think it will be on hold for a couple of days...
still quite anxious to only remove one box though ( i cant even SEE the screw for the clamp on the back clip on the air box !!
many thanks for your advice
Mark
 
#36 ·
thanks .
i have removed the actuator now , not too bad once you've done it once , but quite difficult locating some of the clips first time
I have found a company that actually repairs the actuators and it turns out that they are interested in taking the whole vehicle to retrieve some data from it , are then going to repair actuator , replace it back on car and get it up and running and then return vehicle to me with no costs involved .... it seems that this data is valuable to them
I will let this forum know how it goes ...
 
#37 · (Edited)
Skeptical...

Do a search on here for throttle actuator repairs. I've opened a few that have been "fixed" by companies in various places. None seemed to work any better than before. Not sure what a company would gain other than use of your car for what is already a known cause of failure. Nor is there any "data" to retreive besides error codes.

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e6...on/213858-teardown-s85-throttle-actuator.html

The last few posts will give you info on replacement gear sets from the UK.
 
#39 ·
Ok
heres the story to date on the repairs
stripped car down and removed faulty actuator as previously mentioned , phoned the company who promised to repair it to ask them the best way to get it to them , when they said that they would like to take vehicle away to retrieve data for this faulty part . The company name is BBA reman and they are based in Rochester . Did a little research on them and decided to give them a go and after several phone calls and e mails I was happy for them to take the car.They actually sent a recovery truck down to take it away.
I called them most days to find out how it was coming along because i was still a little worried after never seeing the company or meeting anyone from it , but they were more than helpful on the phone and kept me up to date which kind of made me rest a bit easier . After one week they said the car was ready for collection , and even though I was still a bit dubious about any charges , they told me that it was still with nothing to pay ( they even reimbursed my train fare to get to them , and paid for vehicle to be valeted )
After checking car over and doing some paperwork I took her away and it drove brilliantly for the first 10 miles then disaster .... the same fault codes as before came up , DSC failure DBC failure , engine reduced power etc.. so i turned around and returned straight back to BBA Reman. The engineer who carried out the repair ( a top guy called Nick )came out and scratched his head but after examination found that it was the other throttle actuator had now gone , something that I was kind of worried about because I had read on here that they can go very close together .
Nick then said that he would repair this one and do it that day and next morning and they even paid my cab fare back home and train fare there the next day . I collected car and gave it a good run on my 60 mile trip home and can only say that it was a fantastic job and is running perfectly
From my experience, anybody that has to replace these actuators should not bother paying this £700 replacement price from main dealers , but put their faith in BBA reman . It turned out that my car was the guinea pig for them and now they can turn these repairs out straight away as they have stored faults and sourced new parts that will not fail , they even guarantee the parts for life
A massive thanks to Nick and all his colleagues at BBA Reman , I will certainly use them again for remanufactured parts
 
#41 ·
Glad yours worked out for you and happy it is all fixed now.

I do wonder what they did though. Seems odd they needed yours for data and did it for free since they've been advertising S85 remanufactured throttle actuators for at least a year now. I certainly hope they didn't just do the "spin the counter gear 180 degrees trick" since that normally gets you by for a few more months.

Hopefully it lasts and is legit, the community needs more viable options for repairs to these, the more options the better.
 
#42 ·
Im not 100% sure but i dont think they did that because they mentioned new gears and if these oacked up after a few months it would be no good for their future potential customers
I contacted them a while back about these repairs and although they said that they could do them , they were not really sure
but now after having mine I think they are
will let this forum know the outcome
 
#44 ·
Changed mine this weekend. It was one of the most frustrating experiences ever. Took me about 6 hours due to not having the proper tools that bent in the small spaces for the throttle body screws. The wiring loom was also a bear. It really helps to have a second pair of hands to help. All in all it was worth it saving me about $1,200 from the dealer. Car is running great again. Thanks to this guide.
 
#45 ·
Is there any programing required after you install the actuator.. Also, is there one or two actuators... I just bought a 2006 M5 (new to M5s and this forum) two month ago, spent $4,000 on a extended warranty (from coverage one) and after spending all that money now they are telling me that is not covered under that warranty.. The dealer wants $4,700 for the rapairs (which includes $200+ for programing after the actuator is installed..I am planning to do this myself, I just want to make sure I know what I am getting into... I am also questioning if the problem is really related to the actuators as the lights were on and off for few days and now they are off again.. (Engine light on and sometime DSC malfunction message at the same time, moving the red line on RPM to 4k).. Please advise.. Thanks
 
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