Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuddy
how do you initialize the actuator after install?
|
My first post on the forum.
Sorry it's long, but have a lot of detail some will find useful.
@FUDDY - It appears that you don't "
have to" initialize the new part. It is more of good practice and fine tunning (anyone correct if I am wrong). I will elaborate more below.
First BMW I have owned (2006 M5 SMG). During my second week of ownership, I was out for lunch on a work day. On my way back to work I stopped to fill up (as it constantly needs to do). I started the car to leave the gas station and a whole bunch of errors appeared in the gauge cluster and in the iDrive screen (dsc malfunction, take off assistant is off, etc). The RPM was limited to 4.5 and the car accelerated extremely slow. I took it down a backroad to determine if it was capable of getting back to my work parking lot as well as tried turning it off and on again to see if the errors would clear. I ended up trying to make it back and omg is it slow. Stopped on an uphill due to traffic light. Once the light was green the Big Rig next to me took off up the hill leaving me in the dust! (It is seriously that slow, like a freight train trying to get moving). Had to pull over to let traffic get past, etc. Back at the parking lot I tried disconnecting the battery and nothing would clear the error. In short, the dealer diagnosed it as the Bank 2 Throttle Actuator has an "internal malfunction" (Note: this is USA driver side). Two more weeks go by and I finally have the car back at home and needing to replace the part (dealer quoted $2121 for parts and labor, cost was half part / half labor).
Removed Throttle actuator from the car and noticed it seemed to bind in one particular spot when rotated by hand. Took actuator apart and cleaned a clay-like material from the gears. Plucked the center gear from inside and rotated it to various positions until everything rotated smoothly. Thinking I may have solved the problem, I lightly pieced the car back together to see if the errors would clear. Bam, Errors gone! (keep reading). I then tightened everything back up and took it for a test drive. All was well. Test drove it the next day. All we well. Wife and I hopped in to go for groceries, started vehicle, and the errors were back.
Problem was somehow better but now intermittent. I then ordered a new part from the dealer and ordered BMW software on eBay (DIS, TIS, SSS, etc). Part came in and to this day I am still waiting on software which is coming from out of the country.
Impatiently waiting, I decided to go ahead and install the new part to see what happens. My theory was, since it is the same part it should still run just fine without this "initializing step". I figure the "initialize" is just to fine tune, so that the computer knows the start and stop positions of the new piece. Since the new part is so similar, it should be pretty close without initializing. Put the part on and no errors after two test drives. During the test drives my tire pressure light came on. Indeed the passenger rear was 10lbs low. Added some air to the tire and it does it again. Took it to a tire shop and turns out the aluminum wheel is cracked! All the while, to and from the tire shop there weren't any errors. Car is now on jack stands while wheel is off for repair. Owned the car a whole month now, and for the majority of the time it has been out-of-service.
Note: I timed the new part install and it took about 3hrs 45min to have it all back together. (This is after having done it twice already.)
Below are some pictures of the actual part including internals and part number stickers:
4Likes
Linear Mode
