Guys, Ive done some searches for a DIY thread for changing a thermostat on a E60 M5 and cant find one. Ive been able to find a thread for E39s but no E60s. Does anyone out there have one? Has anyone changed the thermostat? I got an increased emissions warning and went to my shop and pulled the code and it said I had a thermostat problem. It must be sticking open so my car isnt coming up to temp fast enough and its throwing the code. When the car runs cold it will cause it to run a little rich which is why Im getting the increased emissions warning. If anyone can help Id appreciate it.
kendall993
Yes I will. If I cant find a DIY I might work along side with the guys at my shop so I can learn and take some pics for the benefit of everyone else. Shoot maybe they will cut me a deal if I help. They want $700 for the repair which is why Im trying to do it myself. Ive dont a lot of these types of fixes in the past so Im confident that I can do it if I can find some directions. Shoot, I changed my plugs on my own and that was a pain in the ***!! ouich
Drain coolant,remove air box,remove coolant hoses from t-stat(also the one to the expansion tank with the banjo/hollow bolt,new crush washers for this one needed),remove 3 bolts of the t-stat housing(tightening torque 10NM),lift up fuel hose and take t-stat with housing out.
Use new O-rings for the lines that go in on the backside of the housing(order a few more each side,might be that you tear one during installation).
Install new t-stat,assemble everything,fill and bleed coolant system,check for leaks.
Here you see the t-stat housing:
Is all that I remember,as did the job only 2 times so far quite a while ago.
Use new O-rings for the lines that go in on the backside of the housing(order a few more each side,might be that you tear one during installation).
Install new t-stat,assemble everything,fill and bleed coolant system,check for leaks.
Here you see the t-stat housing:
Is all that I remember,as did the job only 2 times so far quite a while ago.
i had a stuck thermostat too that also threw off my emissions warning.
since i was at BMW already getting a new battery and reset, i had them take care of my thermostat as well. parts plus labor came out to $1100. (thermostat, o-rings, antifreeze, hose clamps, gasket rings plus labor)
since i was at BMW already getting a new battery and reset, i had them take care of my thermostat as well. parts plus labor came out to $1100. (thermostat, o-rings, antifreeze, hose clamps, gasket rings plus labor)
Changed my M6 thermostat yesterday.
I was throwing a P0128 error, which is a low coolant temp error. When I took the car on the highway on cold days, the error would light up because of the increased radiator airflow, and because the thermostat was open when it should not have been. (Mine was not stuck upen, but was opening at about 60C according to KTMP.)
At any rate, the swap went pretty much as above, with a few caveats. (This was on '06 M6)
1) Drain the coolant first.
2) Then remove both airboxes. Also, remove the lower half of the drivers side airbox.
3) Remove the bolts on the expansion tank. This will allow you to push the now-empty expansion tank to the side where the airbox is supposed to fit.
4) The most frustrating part about the install was dealing with the intake plenum. You have to loosen 5 screws on 5 hose clamps per side to lift up the plenum. Getting to the back screws was challenging. As the previous author stated, you don't have to remove the plenum completely.
5) Remove the hoses from the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing.
6) Reassemble, with 4 new rubber seals, 2 new crush washers, and the new thermostat. Lube the rubber seals with coolant.
7) Make very sure that when you tighten the thermostat housing, it goes on straight, and not crooked. I hand tightened the 3 main bolts, and advanced each one a quarter turn to prevent the housing from tilting. Reinstall the hoses. (I left the Banjo bolt attached but loose, and when I refilled with coolant, I used it as an air bleed. When coolant came through the banjo bolt, I tightened it.)
8) Reinstall the intake plenum. Very frustrating dealing with those hidden screws.
9) Put everything else back together.
10) Refill with new 50/50 coolant. Mine took about a gallon and a half of 50/50.
11) Check for leaks.
12) Enjoy warm air from ventillation system on cold days.
By the way, if anyone needs some rubber O-rings, I have a bunch left over. The place I ordered my parts made me order 10 of them because they didn't come in a smaller quantity. So I have 6 left over. If you want them, message me and I will mail them out.
I was throwing a P0128 error, which is a low coolant temp error. When I took the car on the highway on cold days, the error would light up because of the increased radiator airflow, and because the thermostat was open when it should not have been. (Mine was not stuck upen, but was opening at about 60C according to KTMP.)
At any rate, the swap went pretty much as above, with a few caveats. (This was on '06 M6)
1) Drain the coolant first.
2) Then remove both airboxes. Also, remove the lower half of the drivers side airbox.
3) Remove the bolts on the expansion tank. This will allow you to push the now-empty expansion tank to the side where the airbox is supposed to fit.
4) The most frustrating part about the install was dealing with the intake plenum. You have to loosen 5 screws on 5 hose clamps per side to lift up the plenum. Getting to the back screws was challenging. As the previous author stated, you don't have to remove the plenum completely.
5) Remove the hoses from the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat housing.
6) Reassemble, with 4 new rubber seals, 2 new crush washers, and the new thermostat. Lube the rubber seals with coolant.
7) Make very sure that when you tighten the thermostat housing, it goes on straight, and not crooked. I hand tightened the 3 main bolts, and advanced each one a quarter turn to prevent the housing from tilting. Reinstall the hoses. (I left the Banjo bolt attached but loose, and when I refilled with coolant, I used it as an air bleed. When coolant came through the banjo bolt, I tightened it.)
8) Reinstall the intake plenum. Very frustrating dealing with those hidden screws.
9) Put everything else back together.
10) Refill with new 50/50 coolant. Mine took about a gallon and a half of 50/50.
11) Check for leaks.
12) Enjoy warm air from ventillation system on cold days.
By the way, if anyone needs some rubber O-rings, I have a bunch left over. The place I ordered my parts made me order 10 of them because they didn't come in a smaller quantity. So I have 6 left over. If you want them, message me and I will mail them out.
Attachments
![IMG_0964[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/22/22520-631f12e861e740de1c2f43554d5983a2.jpg)
![IMG_0965[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/22/22623-40f47e20c17b770ebe147e6419cfdaca.jpg)
![IMG_0966[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/22/22731-4d386833b4cef1f92f0439857a21abb7.jpg)
![IMG_0967[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/22/22831-3fe3ac2a992116fd6b240d2bf8f9a817.jpg)
![IMG_0968[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/22/22942-57304ec53bd8584d6c3a0dc18efde895.jpg)
![IMG_0969[1].JPG](/d2/attachments/23/23043-f5aea383a5e691ae41ee7f2f96706840.jpg)
I am throwing the same code too....will be doing this soon....
I have not really inspected the plumbing, but was wondering about getting the air bled. TKHATER seems to have just filled and bled through the Banjo bolt. I'm really liking the thought that this is all that is needed.
Any other suggestions to get the air bled?
I have not really inspected the plumbing, but was wondering about getting the air bled. TKHATER seems to have just filled and bled through the Banjo bolt. I'm really liking the thought that this is all that is needed.
Any other suggestions to get the air bled?
Make sure your alternator is covered. I was in an alternator repair shop a few years ago talking to the techs and they said one of the biggest reason they have to rebuild alternators is people let glycol get into the alternator. Big killer.
Found this image here, showing a diagram of all of the various pieces and part numbers for a T-stat or water pump change: Waterpump — Thermostat | BMW 5' E60 M5 S85 USA
![Image]()
Attachments
I did this a few months ago by following the above DYIs
The plenum was tough so make sure you have the correct extensions to reach the back two screws on both sides.
I also sprayed it with silicone which did help after it penetrated.
I attached a rubber hose to the top drain on the radiator and like the photo just drained the top half very easy.
Probably saved myself $600
PM me with any questions.
The plenum was tough so make sure you have the correct extensions to reach the back two screws on both sides.
I also sprayed it with silicone which did help after it penetrated.
I attached a rubber hose to the top drain on the radiator and like the photo just drained the top half very easy.
Probably saved myself $600
PM me with any questions.
I also did this a few months ago. I managed to do it by removing only bank 1 plenum. It was quite a tight squeeze to get the stat and housing out though. I also smeared silicone grease on the O-rings so they slid into place nicely - probably helps avoid nipping them during installation too. Whole job didn't take too long at all.
Paul/Graffm (others) -
I am planning on doing this job this weekend. In advance of that, can you (or anyone) address these two areas:
(1) Can you please share tips (or explain) how to remove the plenum? Where are the screws/bolts located? What sizes are they and what extensions are needed? I want to make sure I have the right tools lined up.
(2) Can you please share tips (or explain) how to drain the coolant? What diameter tubing did you attach to the top drain plug on the radiator? What size is the plug? Do I need to remove anything to access the drain plug?
Thanks in advance.
I am planning on doing this job this weekend. In advance of that, can you (or anyone) address these two areas:
(1) Can you please share tips (or explain) how to remove the plenum? Where are the screws/bolts located? What sizes are they and what extensions are needed? I want to make sure I have the right tools lined up.
(2) Can you please share tips (or explain) how to drain the coolant? What diameter tubing did you attach to the top drain plug on the radiator? What size is the plug? Do I need to remove anything to access the drain plug?
Thanks in advance.
Thermostat Cost
I was just checking on buying a new thermostat (PN 11537836155). I noticed that BMW want something in the vicinity of $100 for it. However, RockAuto.com seems to sell premium thermostats (Stant) for $16. Anybody with experience with the Stant version. It seems to good to be true or is this the stealers in action?
BTW: Do you guys typically run a cooling system pressure test?
I was just checking on buying a new thermostat (PN 11537836155). I noticed that BMW want something in the vicinity of $100 for it. However, RockAuto.com seems to sell premium thermostats (Stant) for $16. Anybody with experience with the Stant version. It seems to good to be true or is this the stealers in action?
BTW: Do you guys typically run a cooling system pressure test?
I researched this when I changed my thermostat, I could not find one not Oem that operated at the exact oem temp range. Due to the fact that the DME monitors coolant temp, I decided to buy the BMW one. I did not run a pressure test when I replaced my thermostat, just had to be replaced because it stuck open, causing the coolant to run too cold and triggered a CEL.I was just checking on buying a new thermostat (PN 11537836155). I noticed that BMW want something in the vicinity of $100 for it. However, RockAuto.com seems to sell premium thermostats (Stant) for $16. Anybody with experience with the Stant version. It seems to good to be true or is this the stealers in action?
BTW: Do you guys typically run a cooling system pressure test?
Well. I have some time before I change it. Maybe I am going to put a data logger on the coolant temperature to learn a bit about it. You should be able to see the trip point on the current thermostat. It can't possibly be that precise. I must be off by quite a bit for the DME to call it out. Interesting.....
I have been doing a couple of logs on my way back and forward to work with BMWLogger. The coolant temperature is hovering around 166F, as expected, perhaps a tad low, but I think this is mechanical accuracy. It varies between 162 - 169 or so throughout the ride after it has warmed up, even when you really 'get on it' or drive slower with higher revs in lower gears. It does get there fairly quickly, about 5 min. So, no indications of issues so far. It has been around 32-35F ambient in the last few days. No CEL as a result. This seems to only happen around 15F and below. I think it will drop to 0F here tonight, so I should be able to get a picture of the problem tomorrow.
One word of caution: I have a K+DCAN cable from one stop electronics. It -seems- to produce packets errors when it is cold. Probably some kind of voltage regulator issue in the dongle. When it is warm, no issues. BMWLogger throws me completely out of the recording upon a packet error which is annoying. I know this because it dropped out when I hit the brake slowing down. This is where the car voltage usually drops as the alternator voltage regulator is trying to ramp the exciter coil-current up because the RPMs suddenly reduce. I got a clean trace, taking the car out of the garage yesterday morning, but it was flaky on my ride back after soaking in the car for a day at low temps (32F). Once the cabin temperature was up for a while, it worked without issues. I will bringing the OBD dongle in today for my ride back, such that it is at room temp.
I hope to show some more graphs tomorrow.
Here is this morning's log:
![Image]()
All systems normal, however it seems that the average temperature of the coolant now drops a bit due to the lower ambient. It seems to average around 160F, which is lower than then 166F I saw yesterday. Ambient changed from 32F to 16F, so a -16F delta.
One word of caution: I have a K+DCAN cable from one stop electronics. It -seems- to produce packets errors when it is cold. Probably some kind of voltage regulator issue in the dongle. When it is warm, no issues. BMWLogger throws me completely out of the recording upon a packet error which is annoying. I know this because it dropped out when I hit the brake slowing down. This is where the car voltage usually drops as the alternator voltage regulator is trying to ramp the exciter coil-current up because the RPMs suddenly reduce. I got a clean trace, taking the car out of the garage yesterday morning, but it was flaky on my ride back after soaking in the car for a day at low temps (32F). Once the cabin temperature was up for a while, it worked without issues. I will bringing the OBD dongle in today for my ride back, such that it is at room temp.
I hope to show some more graphs tomorrow.
Here is this morning's log:
All systems normal, however it seems that the average temperature of the coolant now drops a bit due to the lower ambient. It seems to average around 160F, which is lower than then 166F I saw yesterday. Ambient changed from 32F to 16F, so a -16F delta.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
