If it is the first cold start of the day, I might let the engine run for about 1 minute while the RPM drops below 1000 and the idle smooths out, then I go. I usually use the time to make sure I have everything I need before I leave home or to lock up the house.
I do the same on the first start of the day. Let the engine run till the RPMs fall below 1000 and then drive. Then the whole day its just drive and go. Is this okay?
The issue with warming the car at idle is that NONE of the other components are warmed. If you allow the engine to warm to normal temperature and then blast off down the autobahn, the gearbox and differential are still COLD! So, follow the instructions in the manual and you'll be fine.
I understand the differential warm up concept, but why is it deleterious to the gearbox/differential? In either case (driving immediately with cold engine or driving after warm up idle), the gearbox/differential are cold, and the warm up kinetics of these components would be essentially the same.
I guess common sense would be that you don't blast off until all components are at operating temperature. But that doesn't get at why idling per se is frowned upon...
90% of engine wear is caused during intial startup due to insufficient lubrication... This is why i make sure i do not drive my car for at least 2 min after i crank the engine, so i limit that amount of wear and ensure a longer lifespan... Also, never buy a car from a woman as i always see them take off as soon as they start the car up, it angers me whenever i see it...lol
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2004 Mini Cooper S: Alta supercharger 15% pulley upgrade, Dinan cold-air intake, Skunk2 header back exhaust, RMW CUSTOM TUNE, Alta oil catch can, OMP Strut brace, Eibach pro-kit springs, H-Sport camber links, 19mm Rear sway bar w/ adj. end links, 18 in. Breyton mini magics, 6lbs lighter crank pulley, polyeurathane tranny and engine bushings, wheel Studs, Wilwood BBK... More to come soon!
RIP=White 944 turbo: KKK K-27/6 turbo, upgraded intercooler, Lindsey Racing hardpipes, Autothority MAF, B&B exhaust with 4.5" oval tip, Siemens #55 fuel injectors, Lindsey Racing MaxHP custom Chip set, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator, Re-worked head and slightly overbored pistons, Spec Lightened 6 puck stage 3 clutch, Quaif torque biase differential, Apexi AVC Type-R Electronic boost controller, HKS type-1 turbo timer, Shimmed wastegate, Champion Motorsports adj. bypass valve, Weltmeister front and rear sway bars, Weltmeister strut tower brace, Koni adj. "yellows", unknown springs, Turbo Twist rims, Kumho Ecsta Supra tires... And a couple of more unknown mods...
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2004 Mini Cooper S: Alta supercharger 15% pulley upgrade, Dinan cold-air intake, Skunk2 header back exhaust, RMW CUSTOM TUNE, Alta oil catch can, OMP Strut brace, Eibach pro-kit springs, H-Sport camber links, 19mm Rear sway bar w/ adj. end links, 18 in. Breyton mini magics, 6lbs lighter crank pulley, polyeurathane tranny and engine bushings, wheel Studs, Wilwood BBK... More to come soon!
RIP=White 944 turbo: KKK K-27/6 turbo, upgraded intercooler, Lindsey Racing hardpipes, Autothority MAF, B&B exhaust with 4.5" oval tip, Siemens #55 fuel injectors, Lindsey Racing MaxHP custom Chip set, 3 bar fuel pressure regulator, Re-worked head and slightly overbored pistons, Spec Lightened 6 puck stage 3 clutch, Quaif torque biase differential, Apexi AVC Type-R Electronic boost controller, HKS type-1 turbo timer, Shimmed wastegate, Champion Motorsports adj. bypass valve, Weltmeister front and rear sway bars, Weltmeister strut tower brace, Koni adj. "yellows", unknown springs, Turbo Twist rims, Kumho Ecsta Supra tires... And a couple of more unknown mods...
j/k...
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