Thanks for all the comments guys, I am slowly breaking it in. I spoke with Steve Dinan on Monday and he told me to start running it in a little harder for the next 200 miles.. I can't tell you how hard it is to keep it under 5k.. I was following my Wife home the other day in her M5 and she left me at the light because she knew I couldn't hit it.
SW
that's just wrong but so funny at the same time. i've been reminding him since he picked it up tofollow the run-in and not break it. I just finished it, don't want to have to repair it already
The rings and bores are the critical area here, the crank should not be metal on metal but protected and supported on a thin film of oil so if its built properly its fine.
Vary the revs and the throttle position constantly and avoid crusing at a constant speed all costs as this will glaze the bores, when you accelerate the combustion pressure pushs the rings out and beds them in on the bore and when you take your foot off the vacumn caused in the cylinders draws oil up and cools the rings and bore so if you keep adjusting your speed you'll not build up to much heat.
I believe in quite hard acceleration but as I said in very sort bursts... you might get pulled for erratic driving but hey it'll be worth it.
The poor oil consumption on the E39 and E60 I believe is down to people driving to carefully in the run-in stage,thinking that if they cruise around for the first 1200 miles they will have a 'good' engine, but they are only glazing the bores and once glazed no mater how hard you drive its done and you'll have high oil consumption for the rest of the engines life.
Jay
Last edited by ur20v; 18th June 2009 at 18:59.
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The rings and bores are the critical area here, the crank should not be metal on metal but protected and supported on a thin film of oil so if its built properly its fine.
Vary the revs and the throttle position constantly and avoid crusing at a constant speed all costs as this will glaze the bores, when you accelerate the combustion pressure pushs the rings out and beds them in on the bore and when you take your foot off the vacumn caused in the cylinders draws oil up and cools the rings and bore so if you keep adjusting your speed you'll not build up to much heat.
I believe in quite hard acceleration but as I said in very sort bursts... you might get pulled for erratic driving but hey it'll be worth it.
The poor oil consumption on the E39 and E60 I believe is down to people driving to carefully in the run-in stage,thinking that if they cruise around for the first 1200 miles they will have a 'good' engine, but they are only glazing the bores and once glazed no mater how hard you drive its done and you'll have high oil consumption for the rest of the engines life.
Jay
Jay, I believe in the same thing. I broke my new ZR1 in 200 miles and now with 400 miles on it it dynoes and runs real strong. The original engine in my M5 had 6k miles on it and never used oil, I broke it in hard...
The rings and bores are the critical area here, the crank should not be metal on metal but protected and supported on a thin film of oil so if its built properly its fine.
Vary the revs and the throttle position constantly and avoid crusing at a constant speed all costs as this will glaze the bores, when you accelerate the combustion pressure pushs the rings out and beds them in on the bore and when you take your foot off the vacumn caused in the cylinders draws oil up and cools the rings and bore so if you keep adjusting your speed you'll not build up to much heat.
I believe in quite hard acceleration but as I said in very sort bursts... you might get pulled for erratic driving but hey it'll be worth it.
The poor oil consumption on the E39 and E60 I believe is down to people driving to carefully in the run-in stage,thinking that if they cruise around for the first 1200 miles they will have a 'good' engine, but they are only glazing the bores and once glazed no mater how hard you drive its done and you'll have high oil consumption for the rest of the engines life.
Jay
+1
I always broke in the car with driving at varying RPM and different throttle input. The new car I just got, the 1st 1000 miles while I did not push the car often, I do take it for "erratic" driving... sometimes I'll be cruising at 5000 rpm, then 4000, 3000 at different speed etc... Sometimes I accelerate quickly, sometimes gently... My trusted mechanic friend (Certified Porsche Racing Tech) told me not to push it constantly but try to vary driving style...
SW... Congrats on the stroker... you definitely have sooo many sick cars... Your Supra is definitely my fave...
I saw your ZR-1 at the best buy meet on 183 a couple weeks back. Absolutely amazing man. You have impeccable taste
My sister's boyfriend works at BMW of Austin. Don't know if you've met him or not; his name is Taylor. Any plans to take the M5 to the meet this weekend?
2003 Acura CL Type S Black/Black(traded in for ///M5)
-Aem intake, comptech exhaust/headers, comptech sways, eibach springs, UR crank pulley
-fastest 1/4 time: 14.21@98.68
I was following my Wife home the other day in her M5 and she left me at the light because she knew I couldn't hit it.
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