BMW recommends alignment every 15,000 miles? - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

BEMR · 11th February 2008, 08:00

Recently had issues with Continental Tires vibrating at 20. Dealer said tire issue, Continental Dealer said alignment issue take it back to the dealer. Deciding I didnt want to get into a back and forth anymore more than I had to, I took my M5 to a local tire center.

Normally a car with only 13g I would never take it anywhere but to the dealer for anything, warranty issues etc. but was quite surprised by the outcome. Replaced the Continental Tires with PS2's (amazing ride & feel compared to the Conti's) put the car on the alignment rack for the 4 wheel routine. Watched the whole process and the tech showed me on the computer something he had never seen in 20 years, an almost perfect camber, caster, and toe. Adjusments couldnt have got the numbers any closer to zero as they read, zero being completly perfect. Got an extensive printout showing all settings.

In summary to the chain of events over a few weeks, with the exception of putting 300 lbs of weight in the car prior to the alignment that the dealer does, the 289.00 alignment that a BMW dealer does IMO, is a waste of money, especially every 15g miles. I couldnt find a tire center that charged more than 89.00 for all four anywhere on the M5.

The Continental tires turned out to be cupped for no reason at all, and IMHO are junk! I realize that the Michelins are French made and Conti's are German, but for the extra hundred or so per tire, I would much rather have that option when I ordered my car.

Ashok Arora · 11th February 2008, 10:16

I don't think an alignment everyone 15,000 miles would solve this. A lot depends on the conditions the car is driven in. A car that has 20,000 highway miles is probably going to be much better than one with 10,000 hard city driving miles (full lock parking, hard braking etc.). It sounds like an imbalance somewhere.

I do agree that the Michelins are much better, I switched from Conti SC2's to PS2's and the car felt a lot more planted. Unfortunately you cannot specify which brand you want when you get the car; BMW always source from at least two suppliers to ensure supplies and it's pot luck what ends up on your car.

NB · 11th February 2008, 11:34

I found the PS's were cheaper than the contis.

I also had problems with the contis making a noise at slow speeds, sounded like a wheel bearing. Dealer said it was the way the tyre had worn.

New tyres solved it.

I didn't have my alignment checked when I picked my car up, but I wouldn't be suprised if it was not perfect. I know the first time I had it checked the rears were out.

GerGer33 · 11th February 2008, 14:50

The thing is that now you have 20" rims and tires, the factory spec does not apply. Once a low down, change of rims or wider tire size does affect the alignment a bit and the factory index may not apply.

I find that the computerized 4 wheel alignment machine does not give a perfect setting, although in theory it should. The most accurate method I have come across is to wrap around the vehicle with a string and measure the distance against each rim (provided the car has had no damage before). Follow with several road tests and minor adjustments that should give a close to perfect setting.

Barry Lausch · 11th February 2008, 15:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by GerGer33

The thing is that now you have 20" rims and tires, the factory spec does not apply. Once a low down, change of rims or wider tire size does affect the alignment a bit and the factory index may not apply.

I find that the computerized 4 wheel alignment machine does not give a perfect setting, although in theory it should. The most accurate method I have come across is to wrap around the vehicle with a string and measure the distance against each rim (provided the car has had no damage before). Follow with several road tests and minor adjustments that should give a close to perfect setting.

I know I'm going to regret this, BUT.........are you serious? You make caster/camber, toe in/ toe out adjustments based on a string relative to the body sheet metal and feel it's more accurate than computer read factory alignment perameters......................OK

unfoundhorsepower · 11th February 2008, 16:23

Guys.......The factory alignment specs are put together by engineers with several parameters in mind, safety, performance, ease of driving....don't forget if they piss off the consumer they don't sell cars and this car already has pissed off some consumers.......with that said: The determing time for wheel alignment, i think, is BEST determined by a knowledgable, trusting person to do an assesment by simply reading the tire and looking what is going on with its wear....not by mileage.

Barry Lausch · 11th February 2008, 20:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by unfoundhorsepower

Guys.......The factory alignment specs are put together by engineers with several parameters in mind, safety, performance, ease of driving....don't forget if they piss off the consumer they don't sell cars and this car already has pissed off some consumers.......with that said: The determing time for wheel alignment, i think, is BEST determined by a knowledgable, trusting person to do an assesment by simply reading the tire and looking what is going on with its wear....not by mileage.

+1 Common Sense meets experience...........the perfect storm.

GerGer33 · 12th February 2008, 03:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barry Lausch

I know I'm going to regret this, BUT.........are you serious? You make caster/camber, toe in/ toe out adjustments based on a string relative to the body sheet metal and feel it's more accurate than computer read factory alignment perameters......................OK

This is a much better method for the car has had a low down particularly, provided that the body is in its perfect shape. You need to have a reference point somehow plus several road tests by an experienced mechanic to make minor adjustment throughout the road tests.

unfoundhorsepower · 13th February 2008, 02:08

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