I find my Peake Code Reader manual very difficult to understand. For a simple person like me, I like simple & easy instructions.
So I wrote this below on a word document, printed it and attached it to the pouch of my Peake Reader Tool.
Let me know if I have made an error or my understanding of pulling codes and which table applies for our E39 beasts is incorrect.
Peake Code Reader instructions:
Note: The reader defaults to FC (Fault Code read mode). For pulling fault codes follow simple steps below.
1) Turn engine switch to number II position.
2) Connect Peake Tool to OBD-II connector.
3) Press the GO button.
Write down the first set of digits that appear. These numbers are the table you are supposed to use. (see page 6 - 26 for list of tables.)
For E39 – the only applicable table to use is Table 18. No need to look at the other tables.
4) Press the GO button again. The numbers shown now are your fault codes.
Write down the first digits that appears.
Press GO again to get the next fault code. Write each numbers down.
Repeat this process until -- shows up (end of fault code reading.
5) Take your numbers and look at Table 18 to decipher what the codes mean.
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Last edited by whatheheck; 24th July 2007 at 13:36.
What the heck is this? Everything seems to run fine so I just clear it and go.
howorks,
I was doing a bit of research on some other OBD codes and I came across a site that had some interesting information regarding the error code you are seeing.
Looking this info, it might be related to the fuel system. If you have filled your gas tank lately, it could be a simple fix by reseating your gas cap. Try this and reset the code and see if this error code comes back. If it does come back, then might want to have your mechanic take a look or perhaps some with a bit more experience could chime in.
since it drives fine... I have just been clearing it. But it keeps coming back. Sometimes in a few days and sometimes a couple weeks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wi_KeD_M5
howorks,
I was doing a bit of research on some other OBD codes and I came across a site that had some interesting information regarding the error code you are seeing.
Looking this info, it might be related to the fuel system. If you have filled your gas tank lately, it could be a simple fix by reseating your gas cap. Try this and reset the code and see if this error code comes back. If it does come back, then might want to have your mechanic take a look or perhaps some with a bit more experience could chime in.
Just got Codes 90, 91 and b3. At the track about 2 weeks ago they had run out of 93 and I filled up 1 and 1/2 times with 100. When I told a tech at the dealership he metioned that my o2's should have gone crazy.
Went back to the track this weekend and used 93 all weekend, car ran great. I have driven it only 20 miles other than back and forth to the track (150 miles total). After the track I drove to DC (3 hours) and back. On the way back, the SES light came on and I got these codes.
Has to have been the gas, I will edit this post after I run it by the dealer and get their input.
I got the dreaded SES and checked the code: AE - “Air-fuel adaptation, Cyl #1-4”
I cleaned my MAFs this past weekend and the light came on again. My car is a 2000 with 40K on it (original plugs and MAFs). I found a post that referenced that it might take a couple hundred miles for the engine to adjust. Should I wait out the two hundred miles to see if the problem goes away or move on to replacing MAFs, plugs and/or pre-cat 02 sensors?
Car runs fine accept when it's first started. Acts like it is running on 2 cylinders for the first minute or so. Then she runs fine after a quick warm-up.
I got the dreaded SES and checked the code: AE - “Air-fuel adaptation, Cyl #1-4”
I cleaned my MAFs this past weekend and the light came on again. My car is a 2000 with 40K on it (original plugs and MAFs). I found a post that referenced that it might take a couple hundred miles for the engine to adjust. Should I wait out the two hundred miles to see if the problem goes away or move on to replacing MAFs, plugs and/or pre-cat 02 sensors?
Car runs fine accept when it's first started. Acts like it is running on 2 cylinders for the first minute or so. Then she runs fine after a quick warm-up.
Gary:
You probably really need new MAF's. Cleaning will help for a little while; and yes adaptation takes probably about 100 miles or so.
Plugs are close to thier replacement interval, 50K miles. Suggest you replace them also.
This is a high tech engine folks. Everything in the combustion chain must work correctly to get full performance.
Air Filters, Gas Filter, MAF's, plugs and O2 senesors all have to pretty good to get 400HP.
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