Who here tracks their M5 regularly? - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

KWP · 15th March 2007, 21:22

I'm planning on doing at least 2-3 track days with the M5 this year. I'm thinking of some new shocks and struts and maybe a set of track wheels and tires. I got a new factory clutch and flywheel in Aug. 05, so I'm not going to upgrade that just yet.

Anybody do this regularly? What have you encountered as major issues by doing this?

Thanks.

E55AMG2 · 15th March 2007, 21:38

Get rotors and pads (esp pads). High temp brake fluid (castrol SRF is my personal choice). Full on coilovers are the way to go IMO, but you can get away with Dinan/JRZ, or GC. Also make sure you've got your brake ducts open. One of those schroth quickfit harnesses helps too.

KWP · 15th March 2007, 21:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by E55AMG2

Get rotors and pads (esp pads). High temp brake fluid (castrol SRF is my personal choice). Full on coilovers are the way to go IMO, but you can get away with Dinan/JRZ, or GC. Also make sure you've got your brake ducts open. One of those schroth quickfit harnesses helps too.

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E55AMG2 · 15th March 2007, 21:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWP

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search on the boards. You've either got to drill out the stock lower grille or get one from a 540i sport (with the T bar) or get the AA lower grille/sink drains

palantirion · 16th March 2007, 02:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWP

I'm planning on doing at least 2-3 track days with the M5 this year. I'm thinking of some new shocks and struts and maybe a set of track wheels and tires. I got a new factory clutch and flywheel in Aug. 05, so I'm not going to upgrade that just yet.

Anybody do this regularly? What have you encountered as major issues by doing this?

Thanks.

-Your beast will LOVE Road Atlanta! I had mine there two years ago and it's a great track for BMWs (even heavy ones). You will need better brake pads, but I've had no problems at all with the "stock" brake ducting. Pad selection and driver speed/skill are more critical factors. As for suspension, I love my Dinan/JRZ setup although I recognize that it is a hedge between what is ideal for the street and ideal for the track. If you can afford it I strongly suggest running RA-1s on the track (or all the time

). I just finished my first track event with them (on my Z4 M Coupe) and I'm not going to the track again without them

Partly for safety (street tires change under heat cycling and are never the same again), and partly for fun.

p.s. If you start driving well and using the brakes hard, you will probably need to replace your thrust strut bushings. Dinan has a rock-solid monoball that I hear is great. I've got X5 bushings and they have held up perfectly so far (three track days, very hard on brakes, plus street driving).

CSBM5 · 16th March 2007, 03:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by KWP

I'm planning on doing at least 2-3 track days with the M5 this year. I'm thinking of some new shocks and struts and maybe a set of track wheels and tires. I got a new factory clutch and flywheel in Aug. 05, so I'm not going to upgrade that just yet.

Anybody do this regularly? What have you encountered as major issues by doing this?

Thanks.

First off, it really depends on your experience level. I did my first track event in 1981, first autcross in 1975, so take my comments with that in mind.

For driving the car essentially to maximum of its ability, you definitely need a minimum of front camber plates, rear wheels/tires up front and Stoptech brakes. I have my M5 setup as a compromise between track/autocross and comfortable street driving -- Dinan springs, Konis, Ground Control camber plates, Dinan rear sway bar, Stoptech front brakes, OE rear wheels up front and 275/35's all around. For track driving, I have a second set of four OE rear wheels with 275/35 Nitto NT-01 R-compounds, and I use PFC01 race pads up front in the Stoptechs.

With the above setup but still using the stock front brakes (but with Hawk HT-10 race pads, Motul 600 fluid), I totally destroyed the stock brakes at VIR where the M5 will hit over 140mph on the back straight and close to that on the front...melted the dust covers and on one caliper melted a piston seal and got some fluid leakage. The stock brakes are NOT up to A-group/Instructor level driving on a track like VIR no matter what pad you use. This is with open brake ducts too.

With the Stoptechs up front and PFC01 pads, the braking is UNREAL, SHOCKING at how hard you can brake, repeatedly, with those massive 275 R-comps up front. No cooling issues at all. I can run a whole session at VIR and never even have to think about babying the brakes one bit.

Re brake ducts -- I followed a board member's write-up at this link.

The M5 is a heavy car, and it will reward profound smoothness of driver inputs and likewise punish abrupt inputs. Respect its mass * velocity component.

Chuck

E55AMG2 · 16th March 2007, 06:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by palantirion

-Your beast will LOVE Road Atlanta! I had mine there two years ago and it's a great track for BMWs (even heavy ones). You will need better brake pads, but I've had no problems at all with the "stock" brake ducting. Pad selection and driver speed/skill are more critical factors. As for suspension, I love my Dinan/JRZ setup although I recognize that it is a hedge between what is ideal for the street and ideal for the track. If you can afford it I strongly suggest running RA-1s on the track (or all the time

). I just finished my first track event with them (on my Z4 M Coupe) and I'm not going to the track again without them

Partly for safety (street tires change under heat cycling and are never the same again), and partly for fun.

p.s. If you start driving well and using the brakes hard, you will probably need to replace your thrust strut bushings. Dinan has a rock-solid monoball that I hear is great. I've got X5 bushings and they have held up perfectly so far (three track days, very hard on brakes, plus street driving).

My PS2s were run on sebring for 2 back to back track days. After driving home, they were clean (no chunks of rubber on them). 3 days later, they were totally back to normal. PS2s were designed with track days in mind.

Lawaia · 16th March 2007, 07:12

I would if there was a track available here. The only track on the island closed down last April with no replacement track in the plans.

pamato · 16th March 2007, 08:00

That is sad that the only track closed down. Open a new one

M5Kid · 16th March 2007, 09:40

Quote:

For driving the car essentially to maximum of its ability, you definitely need a minimum of front camber plates, rear wheels/tires up front and Stoptech brakes. I have my M5 setup as a compromise between track/autocross and comfortable street driving -- Dinan springs, Konis, Ground Control camber plates, Dinan rear sway bar, Stoptech front brakes, OE rear wheels up front and 275/35's all around. For track driving, I have a second set of four OE rear wheels with 275/35 Nitto NT-01 R-compounds, and I use PFC01 race pads up front in the Stoptechs.

Wow, didn't realize you went with the Dinan suspension and Stoptech's on your car. Any pictures of the new setup? Very well done!

Now, back to the topic... like others have said the M5 is a heavy car, and hard on parts. I have seen an extremely skilled driver (instructor level) track his M5 just high temperature brake fluid and stainless steel lines and prevention modifications. However, the brakes would start to fade after roughly 8-9 laps of 7-8/10ths driving on a small, 9 corner 2 mile track. The PS2's would look worn down quite a bit on the outside edges on the front's. So, if you're an intermediate or advanced, and planning on doing more than one or two days per year, I'd suggest going with OEM rears all around, Dinan rear sway bar w/ BeastPower brackets, track pads, fluid, and stainless steel lines. With this, the car will be more neutral and less prone to overheating brakes and wearing tires down. If you're willing to spend more, I'd suggest Dinan Stg. 3 suspension and Stoptech front slotted brakes. It becomes a slippery slope however, because as you eliminate one weak point, you move it to another. Having heat resistant Stoptechs means you'll burn through tires faster, and R-compounds are hard on suspension components, etc.

If you're doing more than 4-5 days per year, I'd look at a dedicated track car. E36 M3 or EVO tweaked the right way...