I spoke today with a David Wright from Evans at length and he had more questions than I had answers.I will get answers tomorrow and be able to talk to him more appropriately.
Their product works best , from what I gathered from him today, in a free flowing radiator .The more volume moved the better.My radiator is a VAC E38 Radiator that has, I think, dimples in the core to give more surface area which is good for the H2O products,not so good for his product.He asked about the thermostat and could it be removed and then I explained on how mine in the M62TU is electronically controlled by reading the exit temperature from the radiator and also at the water pump.Thus in my case the thermostat has to stay , but he said we could work with that most likely.My car runs hotter than the S62 ( I have been told ) , the range is from 104C-107C.Yes I know that is hot , but that is the way the engineers at BMW designed the damn thing for emissions from what I gather.My car will,if all is well in the cooling system,sit at 221F during what ever I am doing , at speed, at idle going XXX miles per hour , etc....
I do have to keep on top of the reservoir to make sure it is full as when I first took the car out with Andy from Speedwerks the car ran a bit hot and I made notice of that immediately.We go back to the shop and after it cooled down a bit I added coolant and on the drive back home 221F.....I think I need or want a larger reservoir.It was a custom built one by a fellow in CT.
Anyway I am pursuing this as I like the idea of have a non corrosive liquid in my car that has great stability in the cooling process.
So this week I will put the car up on a friends lift and go over the entire car top to bottom to see what I have actually got as I have a tad bit of an exhaust leak , I am going to put a little more rubber between the 044 Bosch Fuel Pump and the car , the oil cooler needs to move forward a scrunch , I fixed the CD player already-a CD was stuck in the machine and I took it out and started to take it all apart and then got confused as to how to properly do it and then went back to google and one person had written up he just unplugged the unit and then plugged it back in and so I tried that and itsolved the problem.....Gotta love the internet.
i AM ABOUT TO GO OUT AND SET MY POINT AND SHOOT SONY UP ON A TRIPOD AND RUN THROUGH THE STARTING OF THE CAR SO YOU GUYS CAN EXPERIENCE WHAT i AM WHEN i START THE CAR....Sorry about the caps , but I can not type and hit the caps lock by accident....
Congradulations on the car!!! I had a chance to see it a few times up at Andy's shop. What a machine!! Makes my new aquired m5 seem like a pussy cat! I hope you'll forgive us, but Andy started the car up so i could hear it... yea it definitely makes some interesting noises... but beautiful noises imho! Talk about a bad ***** sleeper till you start it up.. then it just sounds like an all out race car! I would love a ride next time you have it up there.. i'll bring the Noble by and give you a ride in that as a trade? Enjoy the car!
tarheelturbo
I am glad you got to hear my car.I will get to Thomasville once again I am sure then we can trade rides.
So I found my exhaust leak and I will have it fixed tomorrow once I get the car up into the air.It is at the 4-1 collectors where the springs hold the collector onto the exhaust.Most likely got wiggled loose when the guys were re doing the O2 connectors.No big deal.I will have the car up in the air at 9:30 AM in the morning I just found out.
I talked to Al at Griffin radiators and he told me to talk to Ben tomorrow about my situation with my VAC radiator which is 1.5" single Dimpled core, single pass.I measure the end tanks being 2.0".If I could go to 3.0" end tanks and 2.75" core that would give me the proper size radiator for the amount of power I have in the car now, statistically.I do not know if I can go that large , I am out the door to measure now.
He the person at griffin said just get the correct size radiator and forget the Evans.He actually called it "Snake oil".
I learn stuff every day it seems and then unlearn it the next day.....
David, Don't waste your time with the Evans coolant, I won't get into it but I will state this.
It didn't make the engine run any better just made it hotter which also made the oil temp higher.
I have three gallons of the R left if anyone wants to try it themself.
I'm a big fighter for no Eth/Glycol on the track surface, but it seems to work best
Edit:
DUH!!!! I should have read the last page before posting.
Also, do the pop off valve have a vacuum line to equalize them or are they set for different pressures?(one before the other?)
Honestly, running at 220 isnt a crazy temp to be worried about, especially if it never gets higher than that. I dont know where the car measures the coolant temp, but it would be pretty simple to install a mechanicla aftermarket gauge into the radiator hose system and get actual temps. I personally know in my mustang the placement of the sensor makes a huge difference in terms of its readings.
A placement into the front of the engine, away from the engines latent heat for the most part (namely away from the headers) yields a coolant temp thats extremely reliable.
When I was forced to place the guage into the side of the block itself (all aluminum block very similar to the s62) next to the headers the temp readings immediately started reading about 20-30 degrees higher than before. The gauge readings went from 180-190, to constantly reading 200-220. I did a quick search on the internet and many others have had the same problem with engine heat throwing off their coolant temp gauges, so your engine may not be running as hot as you think.
Also, I don't know much about the tuning of these cars, but is it possible to program the car to switch on the aux. (pusher) fan at a lower temp, and/or have it open the thermastat sooner? Either of those two things (best in combination) will certainly lower the running temp of the engine. Lastly, if you want a better heat transfer out of your coolant, run a 70% water/30% coolant mix as water is a much better heater conducter than the coolant (id switch back to a 50/50 mix in the winter.) You don't need to worry about boilover as water under pressure (9-10 psi) won't boil until around 270+ degrees at which time its way too late anyways since you will more than likely warp the heads even if you dont blow a head gasket. Im sure you also know to always use distilled water as it wont rust up your radiator/lines like tap water will.
David, Don't waste your time with the Evans coolant, I won't get into it but I will state this.
It didn't make the engine run any better just made it hotter which also made the oil temp higher.
I have three gallons of the R left if anyone wants to try it themself.
I'm a big fighter for no Eth/Glycol on the track surface, but it seems to work best
Edit:
DUH!!!! I should have read the last page before posting.
Also, do the pop off valve have a vacuum line to equalize them or are they set for different pressures?(one before the other?)
Thanks for the words.The Evans product looked to be a good answer , but upon delving deeper not so much.I will go with a larger radiator .
There is a 16 PSI pop off cap an the system now.
Honestly, running at 220 isnt a crazy temp to be worried about, especially if it never gets higher than that. I dont know where the car measures the coolant temp, but it would be pretty simple to install a mechanicla aftermarket gauge into the radiator hose system and get actual temps. I personally know in my mustang the placement of the sensor makes a huge difference in terms of its readings.
A placement into the front of the engine, away from the engines latent heat for the most part (namely away from the headers) yields a coolant temp thats extremely reliable.
When I was forced to place the guage into the side of the block itself (all aluminum block very similar to the s62) next to the headers the temp readings immediately started reading about 20-30 degrees higher than before. The gauge readings went from 180-190, to constantly reading 200-220. I did a quick search on the internet and many others have had the same problem with engine heat throwing off their coolant temp gauges, so your engine may not be running as hot as you think.
Also, I don't know much about the tuning of these cars, but is it possible to program the car to switch on the aux. (pusher) fan at a lower temp, and/or have it open the thermastat sooner? Either of those two things (best in combination) will certainly lower the running temp of the engine. Lastly, if you want a better heat transfer out of your coolant, run a 70% water/30% coolant mix as water is a much better heater conducter than the coolant (id switch back to a 50/50 mix in the winter.) You don't need to worry about boilover as water under pressure (9-10 psi) won't boil until around 270+ degrees at which time its way too late anyways since you will more than likely warp the heads even if you dont blow a head gasket. Im sure you also know to always use distilled water as it wont rust up your radiator/lines like tap water will.
I do have two senders for regulation of the the H2O engine temperature.OEM is at the bottom of the radiator where it enters the engine and at the water pump which feeds information to the ECU which in turn controls the thermostat.
Then I have a single PLX sender right after the heads on top of the radiator that is just for me to know how ho the heads are actually getting...Thanks....I am sticking with BMW coolant /Distilled H2O and later a larger radiator....
David, Don't waste your time with the Evans coolant, I won't get into it but I will state this.
It didn't make the engine run any better just made it hotter which also made the oil temp higher....
I agree with 6spd. This stuff may make sense for a dedicated track car, but I see the higher oil temperatures as a big NEGATIVE. This might be solved by a larger oil cooler but...
I agree with 6spd. This stuff may make sense for a dedicated track car, but I see the higher oil temperatures as a big NEGATIVE. This might be solved by a larger oil cooler but...
Yep, it comes to where do you stop.I am going with a little larger radiator that is it.Then just use the BMW coolant and distilled H2o.BUT I am going to drive the car a bit before I do anything that creates down time.I am going under the car today to check out a few things as a lift has been offered.
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