Fuel Filter Replacement - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

phid_bombadier · 17th February 2007, 23:59

There are some instructions floating around but here are some pics as well.

Quick list:
1) jack up and support car
2) pull fuse 54 in trunk fuse panel to disable fuel pump
3) start car a couple of times to depressurize system
4) Remove under panel beneath drivers side door (half a dozen plastic retainers and 2x 10mm nuts and 5 x 8mm screws)
5) Use release schrader valve to release even more pressure/fuel (I didn't do this step)
6) Remove filter clamps (2x10mm bolts)
7) With a catch pan ready, Remove rear filter quick disconnect (pull plastic part into metal sleeve and pull off connector) Cap with plastic cap from new filter
8) Remove front 2 quick disconnects and vaccume line
9) Using an adjustable crescent wrench and a 19mm combo wrench remove regulator from threaded end of old filter
10) replace or transfer copper crush washer to new filter and attach regulator
11) Transfer filter clamps, and reinstall.
12) turn key to position 2 and purge air using the schrader valve on the regulator
13) start car and let idle smooth out

Here are some pics attached.
HTHs,
--Mike

DouglasABaker · 18th February 2007, 00:09

Nice!

Thanks Mike!!

d-

b757236 · 9th April 2009, 17:35

What is the schrader valve? Could you better explain?

"turn key to position 2 and purge air using the schrader valve on the regulator"

Strike · 9th April 2009, 17:55

A schraeder valve is what's used on your tires valve stems. There is one located at the end of the fuel rail on all FI cars to test fuel pressure or to be used to release pressure when working on the fuel system.

mooch · 9th April 2009, 18:14

Excellent timing! I plan on doing this, replacing my pre-cat O2 sensors and swapping in an E60 545i short shifter as soon as I can get my hands on all the parts...

graffix000 · 9th April 2009, 18:47

No need to pull the fuse and try to start the car. Just need to push the shrader valve and it does it depressurizes just the same.

Is step 12 necessary? This is the first write up where I have seen that. I did not do that when I replaced the fuel filter and didn't have any issues and started up right away with a smooth idle.

Lancefitzgiben · 9th April 2009, 18:57

I didn't do step 12. I just got everything put back together (apart from the belly cover) and just started it up.

Strike · 9th April 2009, 19:09

I can't see step 12 being necessary either. Usually when I replace a filter or pump I just turn the key to the on position for a few seconds before cranking it to make sure the pump has time to fill the lines. I would also purge it without cranking the car because if you crank it too long without fuel going into the cylinders you can possibly start to burn the pistons. Slightly, but still, why risk it.

TMcNasty · 9th April 2009, 21:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by graffix000

No need to pull the fuse and try to start the car.

You *could* skip this step, but why? Sure you can depressurize the system using just the valve, but you'll just have to wait longer for more fuel to squirt out of here getting on your hands/garage floor, etc. By pre-depressurizing by pulling the fuse and cranking you're letting the vacuum created in the cylinders release most if not all of the 5bar pressure.

And yes step 12 is not needed. The vacuum of the cranking cylinders + the pressure of the fuel pump refills the lines in seconds.

reds2 · 31st October 2009, 02:39

Is the OEm filter different? I have one that does not say Hengste or Mahle