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Any tricks for pressing in new thrust arm bushings?

1K views 7 replies 6 participants last post by  RescueHercM5 
#1 ·
I'm replacing my lower control arms with new OE versions. Bought the X5 bushings to install in them tomorrow. I've got the info on removing/installing the new arms on this forum and bimmerfest, but just wondering if there are any tricks to pressing in the X5 bushings. Do I need to lube lightly before pressing (with soapy water or oil) or should I press them in as is? Never tried it before, so not sure how difficult it will be to push them in with a shop press. Thanks for the help.

Jeremy
 
#2 ·
not the easiest bushing to press out & in!! I did mine with the arms still on the car (I made a puller to press out & in the bushings) the hardest thing is making sure the bushing goes in straight-the arm is alluminum & soft!! & it is easy to screw up the inner surface

Good Luck!!!!

George
 
#3 · (Edited)
RescueHercM5 said:
I'm replacing my lower control arms with new OE versions. Bought the X5 bushings to install in them tomorrow. I've got the info on removing/installing the new arms on this forum and bimmerfest, but just wondering if there are any tricks to pressing in the X5 bushings. Do I need to lube lightly before pressing (with soapy water or oil) or should I press them in as is? Never tried it before, so not sure how difficult it will be to push them in with a shop press. Thanks for the help.

Jeremy
The trick to pressing bushings in and out is plenty of sleeves or big sockets to use to push against and with. For that job, you need a socket with an ID that is slightly larger than the new bushing, so it can be used to support the arm. Then you can press against the new bushing and old bushing with a socket that has an OD slightly smaller than the bushing OD.

I bought a huge set of those monster cheapo 3/4" socket wrench kits from Harbor freight for about $30 for doing that stuff with my press. I think the smallest socket is 25mm and it goes to about 60 mm or something huge. The sockets are so huge & thick you will never break one, not matter how soft or brittle the metal is. I'm not sure if I like that set more than my chinese $50 4 ton portapower.

The assortment of sleeves that comes with Harbor Freight's big $30 C-clamp ball joint removers may work too...I'm not sure if they are big enough in diameter.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I warm up the arm(using the oven really P/Os the wife) and chill the bushing(Freezer). Only around 175 degrees for a few minutes to help expand the aluminum. Also break the edge so it doesn't grab any material as it slides threw
 
#5 · (Edited)
6spd said:
I warm up the arm(using the oven really P/Os the wife) ..
"Whatcha cooking in the oven??"

"Oh, nothing....."

BUSTED!

Been there, done that....

:)

A

PS If you're ever running schedule 40 PVC electric conduit, you can make any shape by just heating it in the oven to 200F... fyi, good for funky offsets and complex compound curves.
 
#6 ·
I haven't done that in years, I use a hand torch with mapp gas.
I didn't want to suggest that to someone that might never have done it.
At work we even have a controlled oven that makes it easier with all the little bits I need to assemble, There I even have liquid nitrogen to dip parts in.
Here I have all the equipment and I just bought it done from Vines.
 
#7 ·
If you've never done this, you're in for a doozy. Those bushings are in TIGHT. You need a good quality press, with appropriate jig setup. Safety glasses or face shield is a must as the pressures are quite impressive. Also, don't forget to preload the thrust arms while tightening them back in place.

That said, I would recommend you take the arms to a machine shop or some place that's done this before and pay them the $40 or so to press 'em in. Make sure the alignment arrows match up. Good luck.
 
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