Replacing flywheel when replacing clutch? - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

kosmo · 13th January 2007, 03:19

Is is typical to replace the flywheel when replacing the clutch? I have 50k miles. thanks

Gamedemon · 13th January 2007, 04:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by kosmo

Is is typical to replace the flywheel when replacing the clutch? I have 50k miles. thanks

Depends on the condition of your Flywheel.. and you cannot know the condition until you take it out ! I just replaced my clutch at 38k miles. The Flywheel looked perfect with no burn spots !!! sorry that this was not a straight answer, but it really depends....

Now, if you are looking for a perfomance (lightened flywheel) then it is a different story, but be prepared to pay for it quite a bit !

ssomed · 13th January 2007, 05:13

Good point gamedemon,

I would also add that it appears many aftermarket flywheels can add noise, vibration, or harshness.

There is much discussion on this topic if you search the clutch threads

I, also am waiting for the clutch to give out a bit more before replacement. I am currently thinking UUC direct fit organic or clutchmasters stage III. For less noise I would look at the dinan flywheel (If you can still get it).

good luck,

ssomed

Gamedemon · 13th January 2007, 15:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by ssomed

Good point gamedemon,

I would also add that it appears many aftermarket flywheels can add noise, vibration, or harshness.

There is much discussion on this topic if you search the clutch threads

I, also am waiting for the clutch to give out a bit more before replacement. I am currently thinking UUC direct fit organic or clutchmasters stage III. For less noise I would look at the dinan flywheel (If you can still get it).

good luck,

ssomed

I ended up with the UUC organic direct fit... So far so good. I only have 300 miles since the operation. Some vibration in first and revese when initially engaging, but that is slowly fading away.. Otherwise, no noise, very smooth...

SeeSure · 13th January 2007, 17:05

Had my original clutch replaced before Xmas (92k miles, slight slippage when dropping from 6th to 5th to over take) by my trustworthy BMW independant. When I picked the car up he confirmed that the flywheel was not needed, but he did say that when he rang the local dealer for the OEM clutch they asked him if he wanted the flywheel.

He responded to them that he didn't want the flywheel as he only changed that when it needed changing. Apparantly the dealer said that they always changed the flywheel as a matter of course...

His response " That's why your customers always end up coming to me"

So if you are paying for a clutch yourself make sure you really need the flywheel as it is common practice by dealers to automatically replace it !!

kalvin · 13th January 2007, 18:32

I had my clutch upgraded to cm stage 3 without changing the flywheel. I was at 50k miles also. BUt like above post you have to check the condidtion of your flywheel to determine this...

Need4Spd · 13th January 2007, 18:55

Think of it like brake rotors only you can't see it until after tear down. Often rotors don't need changing at the time the first set of new pads are needed but you have to check. The difference is labor and ease of inspection. You can easily tell if a rotor is worn out, and it's easy to replace. But once you go with re-using a flywheel, it's inside, and it's not easy to swap it again. So just be sure.

greg · 13th January 2007, 19:15

I'm in the same boat - want to replace the clutch soon, but suspect the flywheel is OK. How much does the flywheel cost?

gsfent · 13th January 2007, 20:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by greg

How much does the flywheel cost?

List is $885. You should be able to buy it for about $800, maybe a little less.
Regards,
Jerry

M5Joe · 16th January 2007, 08:40

My original throwout bearing failed at 102k miles, so I replaced the original clutch, throwout bearing and pressure plate with a UUC Performance Organic direct fit clutch but kept my original flywheel. Big mistake. (My mechanic asked me why go aftermarket when the OEM lasted more than 110k miles).

The new clutch material never mated properly with the old flywheel and I wound up with a lot (I mean A LOT) of shudder on engagement of first and reverse. This never improved much and I was contemplating paying the labor a second time to replace the flywheel when the new UUC pressure plate catastrophicly failed, breaking into 3 pieces, at 3000 miles. (Now,explain to me exactly why I went with aftermarket clutch?)

I called UUC and they talked me into their just released moderate lightweight single mass flywheel at a discount and they sent me a new clutch kit (under warranty). At least the flywheel was cheaper than OEM.

I had quite a bit of driveline chatter despite the sprung hub clutch and changing the transmission fluid to the UUC recommended concoction. Suprisingly, the chatter is now intermittent, but after several thousand miles is still quite loud when present. I'm very careful not to let the car idle with the clutch out when my wife is around.

The moral? Think very hard about changing a high milage flywheel when changing the clutch, especially if going to an aftermarket clutch. Also, rethink the aftermarket clutch. The OEM clutch may cause a few less headaches.

Joe