I less than 72 hours I will be replacing my front disc brakes for Bav Auto slotted disc brakes. From my technical manuel that i have for the M5, it does not look that difficult. The only thing I am not sure of is removing the rotors, due to be stuck on the wheel bearing housing and removing the brake calipers, i think those are dust covers but i dont want to break them. Any feedback?
hi
its an easy job,i changed mine a while back,i stayed with the oem discs though!
if i remmember correctly
1 loosen wheel bolts
2 jack up the car
3remove wheel
4 remove retaining clip on the caliper
5 useing 7mm allen key take out 2x bolts to seperate the caliper at the inside of the caliper
6 remove 2x hex bolts that hold the rear part of the caliper housing to the strut using 22mm longish spanner,just leave the caliper hanging by its hydraulic hose.
7take out 2x countersunk bolts to remove the disc ,i think its a 4-5mm allen
key.
thats it!
Last edited by eljockvis; 19th November 2006 at 21:05.
hi
its an easy job,i changed mine a while back,i stayed with the oem discs though!
if i remmember correctly
1 loosen wheel bolts
2 jack up the car
3remove wheel
4 remove retaining clip on the caliper
5 useing 7mm allen key take out 2x bolts to seperate the caliper at the inside of the caliper
6 remove 2x hex bolts that hold the rear part of the caliper housing to the strut using 22mm longish spanner,just leave the caliper hanging by its hydraulic hose.
7take out 2x countersunk bolts to remove the disc ,i think its a 4-5mm allen
key.
thats it!
A couple other tips. You will need to remove the caliper brackets to remove the rotors. When you put them back on afterwards, the bolts need to be torqued to the proper spec. so that (1) they don't fall off; and (2) you don't overtighten and strip the threads (which will also allow them to fall off). Unfortunately, I don't recall what the torque spec is but I think it is something like 110 nm (NOT ft.lbs.) for the front caliper brackets and 67 nm for the rear. These are the rather big 16mm bolts holding the caliper brackets, not the pins holding the calipers to the brackets.
To remove the rotors, which could be frozen to the hubs, you will need a 5 lb. dead blow hammer, which you can find at Sears or most tool stores. A rubber mallet doesn't usually work (not enough mass).
On the rear rotors, be sure the parking brake is released or the rotor won't come off. Of course, be sure the car is blocked and won't move when you release the brake.
As the post above mentioned, you need to remove the allen screws (2) holding the rotor to the hub before you can remove the rotors.
If you are unsure about this, take the car to a professional or have an experienced friend guide you through this. Brakes are an important safety issue.
Here is a good DIY site. It's for M3s, but the brakes are essentially the same design.
__________________
Need4Spd
'01 M5/UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0
'05 M3 Imola Cabrio 6MT, Nav, HK
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
To remove the rotors, which could be frozen to the hubs, you will need a 5 lb. dead blow hammer, which you can find at Sears or most tool stores. A rubber mallet doesn't usually work (not enough mass).
Good advice. I have an old 5lb copper hammer I use for this job and it works with one or two taps everytime. Before I remove the caliper, I spray a little penetrant oil near the disk/hub interface and let it soak in.
I find that the plastic covered/sand filled Craftsman hammers do not work as well. And don't even think about steel ball pein hammer - they just bounce off.
I find that the plastic covered/sand filled Craftsman hammers do not work as well. And don't even think about steel ball pein hammer - they just bounce off.
Actually, a 5 lb. copper hammer would to just fine, even better, so long as you're just going to trash the old rotors anyway. I guess the plastic coated ones are less effective because they bounce more, but basically, 5 lbs. of force is 5 lbs. of force. The penetrating oil is a good idea, too. Forgot about that one. Also, before you put the new rotors on, clean up all the rust and lightly, and I mean lightly, smear a bit of anti-seize on the hub surface so the new rotors won't get quite so stuck when you go to take them off later.
__________________
Need4Spd
'01 M5/UUC SSK + Rogue WSR/RE Tranny Mounts+Royal Purple Synchromax/Axxis ULT Pads/StopTech SS Lines/TC Design from BeastPower Anti-roll Bar Brackets/Dinan LtWtFlywheel and Stage 3 suspension/Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics/Vines thrust arms/IATS relocation/10w-60 oil/hardwired Escort 9500i/Euro Armrest/TEC Cupholder/IceLink/PowerChip 91 Gold/TUBIs!/Strong Strut/BSW Stage 1/BT/Angel iBrights 3.0
'05 M3 Imola Cabrio 6MT, Nav, HK
"Is it the sounds that make a BMW a BMW? A BMW is designed to be heard, felt, experienced. So our engines sing. Our steering talks back. And we insist on offering manual transmissions in nearly all our models for drivers who crave them. The result is an almost telepathic oneness with the car. Just as surely as you can hear a BMW, a BMW hears you."
Actually, a 5 lb. copper hammer would to just fine, even better, so long as you're just going to trash the old rotors anyway. I guess the plastic coated ones are less effective because they bounce more, but basically, 5 lbs. of force is 5 lbs. of force. The penetrating oil is a good idea, too. Forgot about that one. Also, before you put the new rotors on, clean up all the rust and lightly, and I mean lightly, smear a bit of anti-seize on the hub surface so the new rotors won't get quite so stuck when you go to take them off later.
Good advice. I have an old 5lb copper hammer I use for this job and it works with one or two taps everytime. Before I remove the caliper, I spray a little penetrant oil near the disk/hub interface and let it soak in.
I find that the plastic covered/sand filled Craftsman hammers do not work as well. And don't even think about steel ball pein hammer - they just bounce off.
Steve
00 M5
+1. And as a last resort, use a high temp torch on the rotor (where it meets the hub) After heating it for about 5 minutes or so you should be able to tap it off with the hammer easily. Be careful when you do this as the rotor will be extremely hot after heating.
Taking the rotors was not a big deal at all, surprising it was off before i knew it. The rotors were not frozen. The only difficult part was braking the 18mm bolts that support that caliper bracket off. A little wd-40 did the trick along with a 1/2" ratchet took care of that issue.
After replacing the rotors and putting the new brake pad on i am not sure if the brake pad I got are the best. I hear a slight scratching noise when the peddle is at rest with obviously when the car is motion. When i press the brake the noise go away. I suspecting that i probably need to bleed the brakes. I was speaking to one of my more experience friends with german cars and he was saying that it is possible since you have upgraded to the slotted rotors that you need to bleed the brakes to get them set in better. He test the drove the car and he noticed that the brake pedel when release does take slightly longer to retract back up.I double check the retainer clip and it is not touching the rotor.
Of course I have bedded the brakes and put a nice blue tint on the face of the rotor. I will say this the brakes stop much better when did a hard brake test and not hesitation just stop. I thinking just a little fine tuning will be good. He recommended that I pick up a couple of liters of the blue racing brake fluid. What do you guys think?
Linear Mode
