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DIY Spark Plugs, as requested. (Pics inside)

108K views 140 replies 85 participants last post by  Edgy36-39 
#1 ·
A few people asked for a small write up, so here it is! The job itself is not very hard, just takes a little time and some small hands. I am not responsible for any damage you do to you engine or yourself. This is a high voltage system, use common sense and disconnect your battery.

Tools:
3/8'' Rachet
LONG 3/8'' Extension
3/8'' Wobble joint
10mm Socket
Spark Plug socket
Torque Wrench
Flat head screw driver
New plugs, NGK or Bosch are the BMW choice from the manual
Lots of light
Gloves
Liquid refreshment
A girlfriend/wife with small hands (If you have giant monster hands like me)

I started with the passenger side first. In order to access everything the cabin filter and its plumbing need to be removed. Zee Germans did a very nice job of making this unit easy to remove. At the center of the filter tray there is a small metal clip that holds the entire unit to the strut tower. Pull this clip out and set aside. Now lift the long, thin black bar that holds the filter lid on. Remove the lid and filter and set aside. Now to disconnect the plumbing into the firewall. On the filter box end, there are 3 tabs on the connector that need to be lifted (I choose a small screw driver but your fingers will do) The filter box and plumbing should now be separated. To remove the tube from the firewall rotate the entire tube clockwise, then it will pull straight out. To remove the filter box lift it from the right side. the box has a tab that sits in the fender and will pull right out when the right side in angled upwards.

You should have an area like this when finished


Parts that were removed look like this


There are two 10mm nuts on the surface of the access cover that need to be removed. Take care are not to drop the nuts or their washers into the engine bay! Once these bolts are removed the cover can be lifted (with a little force) and then maneuvered out of the engine bay. Be gentle and just wiggle the cover out, it will come, it may take some different angles.

You should see this


Now for the Bremi's (coils). I found it best (after trying many different ways) to remove all connectors first. To remove the electrical connector from the bremi takes the following: There is a large metal retaining clip that holds each connector in place. I found it best to use a flat head screwdriver, insert in the small recess at the front/long side of the clip and just "pop" the clip up. Then with your fingers lift the clip as far up as you can (it will stop, you won't pull it off). These clips are a pain in the arse because they always want to work there way back down, so with one hand hold the clip up, and with the other slide the electrical connector off the bremi. Repeat this process for all 4 bremis. The last one (closest to the firewall) is a PITA but take your time, just move the rubber insulator as best you can to access the connector. With the electrical connectors off I then removed the two 10mm nuts that hold the black, plastic wire loom in place. With the all of the above mentioned removed it makes access to the bremis very easy.

On to the Bremis. There are two 10mm nuts that hold each bremi in. Start with the first bremi, remove the nuts (again be careful as not to drop the nuts down into the galley) With the nuts removed get two fingers under each side of the bremi and give it a firm tug straight out. Remove the bremi and set aside.

Cover off and the first bremi out


Here is a pic with a bremi out, it is the driver's side but you getb the point


With the bremi out, use a very long 3/8'' extension, a wobble joint and your spark plug socket to get the plug out. Try to turn the plug as true to center as possible. This is hard because of the angles required to access the plugs. Remove plug and number. Reinstall new plug and turn in with FINGERS ONLY (ie remove the racket and turn the extension with your hands) this will ensure the plug seats true and not cross threaded. These are aluminum heads, not hard to f up. Once the plug is turned down by hand grab your torque wrench and tighten to 21-22 ft/lbs. Again keep your extension as true to center as possible. Reinstall the bremi and your done your first plug. I again suggest leaving the electrical connectors off to better facilitate access to the remaining units.

Work your way rearward. The last plug is a bit hard to access, but use your head and take your time.

After you change all 4 plugs, put everything back together in reverse order. Again the plug closest to the firewall is just a PIA.

I am not going to post about the drivers side because it is 99% the same as the passenger! There are a few AC hoses that are in the way, so small hands work better.

Button everything up


Start her up and enjoy! Make sure you get all your tools out of the engine bay!! Label your old plugs and post pics on here so smarter people can analyze them for you :biggrinbounce:
 
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#133 ·
Had a go at the spark plugs yesterday. Wasn't too difficult but timeconsuming. Took me around 2 hours. Had some oil in the pan at bank 2 (driver's side). Where does it come from in the first place? Some ran down the cylinders and gave me blue smoke at start up. Other than that the car runs fine and slightly more aggressive. Weren't the original plugs, so probably that's why there wasn't the huge improvement some members seem to experience.
 
#134 ·
Oil would come from leaking cam cover gaskets, remember there are two of them, one outer and the smaller inner one, that oil is most likely from the inner one.
You could remove the covers and use a bit of sealant on the gasket, little harm in that.
Also, it's a good idea to fit fresh rubber washers under the mounting bolts/nuts. The old ones get compressed over time and do not exert as much force on the cover, causing the gaskets to leak.
New rubber washers will squash the cover down better. Don't over tighten them bolts/nuts!
 
#135 ·
Just did my plugs today, after 3 months with the dream and not knowing history. Thanks 1st to OP for the DIY. Awesome! (2002 M5, 173k miles)

And thanks to all for the follow up tips. Only used two 12" extensions, one for the 10mm and u-joint, and one wobbly with ujoint spark plug socket and black tape connected. Good tip. Black tape also added stiffness for guiding plug smoothly into hole.

Only removed the front bremi to get it out the way and feel a clean pull on the coil, and experience the un-clipping of a bremi (and re-clipping at finish of the passenger side.) All other coils pulled fine and out of the way while connected, no problem. Good tip to leave all connected.

Did lay out handy old shirt between engine and wheel shroud, but didn't drop anything there. Good insurance though, good tip. Two thirds way thru putting nuts and bolts back on passenger side I thought 'cool no drops' 2 seconds later dropped middle ground bolt into galley. Telescoping magnet to the rescue. Good tip. Needed it again on bottom left bremi nut in galley. Undo rail nuts and top bremi nut to get enough access room. (memo to self 'pay attention, slow and exact}

New tip: Use the telescoping magnet on driver side fire wall ground bolt that has two ground wires to line up. Twist it a bit and it starts threading, finish with socket, if you are sure it's threading smooth.

Getting cover back on was a pita, the back wire assembly thingy wasn't cooperating. Put left front cover bolt on snug and then slid it into slots and it stayed so right bolt would grab and secure it tight.

Now onto the real purpose of this post, Results!

On Sunday at a rent a lift DIY place I did tranny and diff fluids. And fuel filter, and car seemed to run a smidgen better. But might be just 'wanna feel' like I did something. (Tranny doesn't randomly slip out of third anymore)

On Monday wanted to do plugs but too hot after morning errands, engine and air temp, 85 going to 92 degrees. So cleaned MAF sensors, they were pretty clean to start with but maybe some soot on the prism mirror. ??? It felt maybe a 'wanna be smoother' feeling again on ride to work.

Tuesday morning; freezing cold, 50 degrees, no way doing plugs. Come noon, 65 degrees, ok try taking cover off, see how that goes. That was easy, and two hours later all done.

Test ride: Before plugs, car performed good, sound was unimpressive, what was everybody talking about. Bland. Like muddy water was my first thought of what I had been hearing before the new plugs. It's like 4th of July fireworks now! Still getting to know/experience new performance. Seems Good, or is it a 'wanna be' feeling. ???
 
#137 ·
What's the latest conventional wisdom on antiseize - use or not? TIA.
 
#139 ·
Did the job recently, here's my contribution to the collective. Long 10mm socket with magnetized end and wobbly attachment makes job a lot easier.
 
#141 ·
Right. I didn't put any on. Confirmed information on the NGK site about it not being needed.
 
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