I have 97k on the engine, but I had hoped it would last much longer with all of that $10 per quart oil I have been using. I think when more people have high mileage engines, another solution will be worked out.
Ouch, sorry to hear about your situation.
There are quite a few members on the board reporting perfect performance well over 100k mi, which I think is to be expected from these engines. There seems to be a few bad apples out there that really guzzle oil and/or spin bearings. I suspect this would be the case for most engine lines given normal manufacturing tolerances (including oems of engine components). One hopes as our mileage distribution moves up with time, these situations will continue to be the rare exception.
With the rare bad apples, I don't think I'm aware of a single person who had a major engine issue not attributed to misuse that didn't get some help from bmwna. Even Mark, who let his oil run dry, got some coverage (sorry Mark, couldn't resist ). Of course catastrophic failures due to over-reving are another situation, but when it comes to issues that appear more related to substandard parts or performance, bmwna seems to step up whether the car is in warranty or out.
You might pursue this avenue, but in the end, even with 50% goodwill, you might be better off with a used engine. You could recoup some of the cost by selling your current engine to a rebuilder or parting it out.
bmw also offers what they call a "short engine" which is a new block, pistons and rings, installed. You need the rest of the stuff. Head work is not that expensive, iirc, dinan said about a grand for a valve job (can't remember if that was per head), porting added another 8hrs labor or so. Throw some cams in while it's apart. About $1000 for misc gaskets to reassemble. if the crank /rods are good, this might be a decent way to go, and you have a known engine, rather than a used mystery.
Mike
__________________
Mike
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 M system with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Ground Control Coilovers; EAT Chip, CD43; bmw/nardi blackline steering wheel, 3.8 Cam Gears
08 535i / 6 speed
Space Gray; Gray; Sport/Premium/Nav
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv --Sold
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
With the rare bad apples, I don't think I'm aware of a single person who had a major engine issue not attributed to misuse that didn't get some help from bmwna. Even Mark, who let his oil run dry, got some coverage (sorry Mark, couldn't resist ). Of course catastrophic failures due to over-reving are another situation, but when it comes to issues that appear more related to substandard parts or performance, bmwna seems to step up whether the car is in warranty or out.
"Oh Dave, I can take the ribbing. I agree about the bad apples and of course the abuse issues. I just wish that BMW had stepped up a bit more and admitted to the fault on their part regarding these isolated incedents."
bmw also offers what they call a "short engine" which is a new block, pistons and rings, installed. You need the rest of the stuff. Head work is not that expensive, iirc, dinan said about a grand for a valve job (can't remember if that was per head), porting added another 8hrs labor or so. Throw some cams in while it's apart. About $1000 for misc gaskets to reassemble. if the crank /rods are good, this might be a decent way to go, and you have a known engine, rather than a used mystery.
Mike
"Mike very good point about the short block. Problem with mine was that it would have added another $7k to my cost and that is if BMW had given it to me at wholesale rates."
Mark
__________________
MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!
2001 M5 LeMans Blue/Silverstone
Dinan: springs, Konis, rear sway bar, monoball bushings, and exhaust
Ground Control camber plates
Stoptech front brake kit
Brake ducts opened
TC Design brackets
OE 9.5" rear wheels all around & 275/35-18 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec for street
275/35-18 BFG R1 & Nitto NT-01 R-comps for track
2003 330i ZHP 6MT Imola Red/Black Alcantara
2006 330i sport 6MT Electric Red/Black
2001 Audi S4 6MT Silver/sport Alcantara
1996 Volvo 850R wagon
The jury is still out. When I changed the oil at 1200 miles, I had seen a low oil indication. I was down 1 1/2 quarts. The dealer either did not fill it properly or it used that much. It did not leak out, I would have noticed. The oil was very dark in color. So much so that I am having it evaluated to see what was in it. I am now checking it every 350 miles or every gas stop.
It runs a bit rougherthan before and is getting about 1 gallon per mile less in mileage. This could be because of the crap 10% ethynol gas that is required in our area now or just the breakin of the new parts.
I will let you know what the evaluation of the oil finds. I am waiting for the company to send me the oil container.
Mark
__________________
MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!
when an engine is rebuild it will use some oil during the break in period. also, they may have used a heavier oil for the break in. on my recent 993 engine build we ran cheap oil for the first 100 miles and then changed it a number of times before switching to syn and normal change procedure
I agree that this is not unexpected for a 'break in' period with new rings. I would not put too much weight on any analysis from this oil sample. There will be metallic debris in it, due to new parts wearing in. Time will tell, but these engines can take several thousand miles to break in. I can't remember if you have new rings on a couple of cylinders or a full set, but either way you'll likely use more oil for awhile. If it were my car, i'd probably give it 5k miles, then get a compression/leakdown test. That will tell you if those cylinders were repaired properly. If not, i'd say back to the dealer (perhaps demanding a new engine?)
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by MAH
Chuck,
The jury is still out. When I changed the oil at 1200 miles, I had seen a low oil indication. I was down 1 1/2 quarts. The dealer either did not fill it properly or it used that much. It did not leak out, I would have noticed. The oil was very dark in color. So much so that I am having it evaluated to see what was in it. I am now checking it every 350 miles or every gas stop.
It runs a bit rougherthan before and is getting about 1 gallon per mile less in mileage. This could be because of the crap 10% ethynol gas that is required in our area now or just the breakin of the new parts.
I will let you know what the evaluation of the oil finds. I am waiting for the company to send me the oil container.
Mark
__________________
Mike
91 M5 Alpine White II, Silver Gray 3/90 production
17x8/17x9 M system with PS2, 20mm touring roll bar; Ground Control Coilovers; EAT Chip, CD43; bmw/nardi blackline steering wheel, 3.8 Cam Gears
08 535i / 6 speed
Space Gray; Gray; Sport/Premium/Nav
00 M5 Ti Silver; Imola/black sportiv --Sold
Engine:
Supersprint Headers, Dinan CAI kit and MAFS, Throttle Bodies, Cams, Ported heads, Exhaust, Custom dinan software, Evosport Pullies, Dinan clutch and lightened flywheel; Ignition solutions plasma coils
Suspension:
Dinan Stage 3 with front and rear Strut Tower Braces, Beastpower Sway bar brackets, Dinan Wheels with 275/285 PilotSport, X5 Thrust arm bushings, Stoptech 355mm 4 piston front, 355mm 2 piston rear brake kit, Dinan 3.45 diff
Interior/Misc:
Eurodash, updated steering wheel, Bluetooth retrofit, Sirius Retrofit, hardwired V1, Widescreen Mk4 nav, M audio retrofit, Ice Link, BSW Stage 1 speaker upgrade, bmw towbar
Thanks for the advice. It sounds like I should try a letter to BMWNA.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsodh
Ouch, sorry to hear about your situation.
There are quite a few members on the board reporting perfect performance well over 100k mi, which I think is to be expected from these engines. There seems to be a few bad apples out there that really guzzle oil and/or spin bearings. I suspect this would be the case for most engine lines given normal manufacturing tolerances (including oems of engine components). One hopes as our mileage distribution moves up with time, these situations will continue to be the rare exception.
With the rare bad apples, I don't think I'm aware of a single person who had a major engine issue not attributed to misuse that didn't get some help from bmwna. Even Mark, who let his oil run dry, got some coverage (sorry Mark, couldn't resist ). Of course catastrophic failures due to over-reving are another situation, but when it comes to issues that appear more related to substandard parts or performance, bmwna seems to step up whether the car is in warranty or out.
You might pursue this avenue, but in the end, even with 50% goodwill, you might be better off with a used engine. You could recoup some of the cost by selling your current engine to a rebuilder or parting it out.
I agree that this is not unexpected for a 'break in' period with new rings. I would not put too much weight on any analysis from this oil sample. There will be metallic debris in it, due to new parts wearing in. Time will tell, but these engines can take several thousand miles to break in. I can't remember if you have new rings on a couple of cylinders or a full set, but either way you'll likely use more oil for awhile. If it were my car, i'd probably give it 5k miles, then get a compression/leakdown test. That will tell you if those cylinders were repaired properly. If not, i'd say back to the dealer (perhaps demanding a new engine?)
Mike
Good advise. I do have all new rings. I will wait for the 5k miles mark for that leak down test from an independent service company. I am just hoping that I do not need to take it to the dealer again for an issue. Then again with a two year warranty, I can take to any dealer.
Thanks,
Mark
__________________
MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!