I use about 2 quarts of oil every 1000 miles. I also have the carbon build up problem, and last time I took my car into the dealership, they said I had some cylinder issues. I'm curious to know what progress you make with your warranty co. Keep us posted!
If in fact you are using 2 quarts every 1000 miles you have a pretty big problem. That usage is way out of line even for a MY00. Unless it is leaking somewhere which I am assuming you would have already noticed, I would pull the plugs and check them first. Otherwise have it looked into soon. This car is way too expensive to have repaired to sit on an issue like yours for long.
Mark
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MY2001 Imola Red
Lux. Black Interior
Painted Calipers,
AC Schzitner Type III Two Piece 18 chrome wheels, Stage II HID's Low Beams and Foglights, Supersprint X-pipe (removed).
Autowerke CAI
Powerchip Software Upgrade
Stage I upgrade MB Quarts Speakers from Bavarian Soundwerks (our sponsor here)
Tubi Catback Exhaust
361RWHP
425HP and growing!
I have an 11/99 build with 40,000 miles. Most driving is around town and I do wind it out alot. I'm using 1 quart of oil every 500 to 700 miles. Performance is fine. Should I be worried? Should I be doing anything about it?
Oil consumption of 1L/1000 is pretty typical for the early rings, and you can certainly drive it up with a heavy foot. If you stay off it for a tank or two and throw in some easy highway miles, bet you find you're right about at this level. This would be normal.
MAH, I also get 8mpg in city driving. I'm gonna take my car in for servicing. Since I no longer have warranty, I am concerned about the cost of fixing my issues. I hope I am not F*CKED!
I have an 11/99 build with 40,000 miles. Most driving is around town and I do wind it out alot. I'm using 1 quart of oil every 500 to 700 miles. Performance is fine. Should I be worried? Should I be doing anything about it?
That is normal for your build date from what my dealer told me during the early days. They gave all of the early owners free oil. I got an all-time low of 180 m/l for a hard charging mountain sprint when my oil warning went off for the first and only time, after being checked and filled to the upper dipstick mark in the morning. I would normally average 500 m/l but frequently got less.
Here are the valves from the same S62 w/ over 100k miles. Some carbon deposits are normal. Note the clean valve edges. This was characterized as perfect and exemplifying a well-maintained engine.
Dave
Is it these carbon deposits that the Seafoam stuff is supposed to get rid of?
Might be worth looking into...
It is reassuring to see that beneath (above when in place) those valves is a lot of very shiny clean metal.
Cheers,
Salty.
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2000 M5 Avus Blue
Interior: titanium trim, Motorsport tri-color fabric seat & door panels w/ black leather, split folding rear seats w/ ski bag, sunshades, alcantara, DSP, etc, etc.
Mods:
- stock 2003 angel eyes upgrade
- Supersprint Magnum exhaust and X-pipe
- Rogue Engineering tranny mounts
- hardwired Valentine One.
- DME upgrade Sept 08.
- Red Line 70W80 tranny fluid
- door mounted cup holders
So I just got a call for the service manager at Santa MOnica BMW. He had his "shop foreman" look at the problem he said the forman says he can fix the problem by replacing the valves on the two cylinders, about 6 hours of labor plus parts. The warenty company has already agreed to pay for half and BMW is going to pick up the other half of the labot costs=Goodwill on their part. Not sure what to make of this last week I was faced with buyibg a new engine now it is the valves??? anyone have any thoughts. Brian
These may sound like flip questions, but they are key.
Anyway, I'd want to know WHAT IS WRONG. HOW DID THIS HAPPEN? Why are they sure this will fix the problem? What is the warranty for the engine after they get done?
Casually ask "how did BMW evaluate this? Did you send them pictures? If they say yes, demand to see them.
Have you done 'reference checks' for Santa Monica and the mechanic doing this work?
I assume this is a zero cost to you... your math seemed a bit vague on parts versus labor.
I'd consider paying $200 for another mechanic (from another shop!!) dropping by to give a second opinion.
My guess is that you will never me able to tell if they are not giving you the full story....
Like I said before, DON'T Take it to Santa Monica BMW....their first move was to "full charge" you for a new engine!!!
Definitely take it somewhere else....for a 2nd opinion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brianhardcore
So I just got a call for the service manager at Santa MOnica BMW. He had his "shop foreman" look at the problem he said the forman says he can fix the problem by replacing the valves on the two cylinders, about 6 hours of labor plus parts. The warenty company has already agreed to pay for half and BMW is going to pick up the other half of the labot costs=Goodwill on their part. Not sure what to make of this last week I was faced with buyibg a new engine now it is the valves??? anyone have any thoughts. Brian
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2001 E39 M5 Titanium Silver/Silverstone
1997 BMW M3 Gruppe N Race Car
2005 X5 4.4i
How many times have we seen a major engine issue, with a dealer that is questionable.... the owner doesn't really take control of the situation at the outset, and then finds it too late to correct the situation.
I would find another mechanic and service manager, perhaps recommended by multiple board members, and have the vehicle flatbedded over htere if necessary to get a second opinion.
(So I am agreeing with Jeff)
Also, a slight correction: Santa Monicas first move was not a new engine- their FIRST move was to charge you $690 for a leakdown test, second move was the new motor.
This sounds like they 'cut a deal' with BMW and the insurance company to do the very minimum to get you out of there.
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