Issues with stereo no sound from entire passenger side - The Unofficial BMW M5 Messageboard (m5board.com)

Jenner · 4th June 2006, 16:34

I plan to bring my M in to BMW tomorrow but I just wanted to see if there was anything I could check before hand or maybe a diagnosis from the board to help the BMW techs locate the problem faster.

I have a 2003 with the M audio option. With the balance control set to the middle I have full sound from the drivers side front and rear doors and no sound from the passenger side. If I set the balance control to full right there is some bass and that's about it. FM/CD doesn't matter it's the same.

Since it's the entire side except maybe the rear sub I am guessing that the amp that drives the passenger side of the car(but not the rear subs) needs to be replaced.

Any other info/guesses? TIA!

whatheheck · 4th June 2006, 17:40

Check all the connections on your DSP Amp. It is possible that some wires got cut by accident, some wires got pulled out of the connectors, or some connectors are not fully seated. So check all your amp connections.

If it turns out to be a defective amp, dont pay the stealer price. You can find a DSP amp in eBay for around $150.00.

Dan

KBK · 4th June 2006, 17:41

very odd. The system is digital in implementation.

This means, for CD sound to come out of the sysem, it MUST be passing left and right digital signal...they are sent together as a single digital signal.

The amplifier is built so that a separate amplifier sends signal to each driver..meaning tweeter and woofer on the front door are sent signal from a single stereo amp..one channel per driver. I don't know of single spot in the entire amplifier system where the signal is broken down into specific 'left' or 'right' handed signals. Since all the signal handling is in the amplfier itself, it looks like you need a fuse replaced in the power amp, or possibly the power supply for the amplifiers on the right side (2 stereo amps) and those amps may have their own bank of capacitors (internal power supply) and that some parts in that section may have failed. Unlikely to be wiring either. It could be a pinched wire, which shorted an amp..and took out the power supply on those two stereo amps. Or just a fuse, as fuses on such equipment can and usually are built into the amp, soldered right to the board.

All in all, sorry for the slightly confusing sounding answer.

It's gonna need servicing.

PS. it may ALSO ..possibly.. only be a control system issue. the amp is digitally controlled by the front dash display.

The amp may merely need to be disconnected (powered down) and then restarted. Using the key won't do it. It has a certain amount of a computer characteristic about it, meaing it uses a digitally activated and actuated control system that has to preload software each time it turns on.

And just like that computer, pressing "contol+alt+delete"..sometimes doesn't do the trick, it needs a 'hard boot'. Ie, completely pull the power.

Disconnect it right at the amp connections.

IF that fails, then it is down to amp damage or wiring damage.

Wiring damage being the worst, as it can blow up a second amp. You put the new one in, thinking it's the amp..but NO! It's the wiring..and you blow up a second amp.

Jenner · 4th June 2006, 17:48

It's under BMW warranty&maintenance till 2009 or 100k so I won't have to pay for anything no matter what. I was just hoping for a simple fix or something I could check myself.

I have no clue where the DSP amp is located to look at the wiring or fuses. Anyone care to point me in the right direction? Thanks!

ard · 4th June 2006, 19:20

Good tips on powering down by disconnecting. I had similar issues with audio, never nailed down what it was- even under warranty- since it would fix itself after I re-plugged in the amp.

If you have a CPO that you are relying upon, you may be in for a nasty surprise: Some electronics are excluded if I recall correctly- possibly Nav and Audio. I've never found an e copy of the CPO coverage details. Just FYI

There are plenty of ways for BMW to charge you between 50-100k: suspension, 'abuse', rubber seals, etc, etc..

A

Jenner · 4th June 2006, 19:53

Well the car is a CPO but still has the orig warranty and maintance until 2007 or 50k. I still have 4k left of that warranty.

I located the DSP unit and disconnected/reconnected one of the cables but it didn't make a difference. Not sure how to disconnect the other smaller set of wires.

I did notice that in that area where the DVD NAV, 6 disc, and DSP are located all of the bare metal there seems to have been exposed to water/salt as it has corroded. There are white dots/spots on the gold and silver metal brackets and boxes that contain the DVD NAV etc. On the passenger side I noticed after washing the car water can get in through this area via the fresh air vent...

KBK · 4th June 2006, 20:04

Then it may be water damage.

We don't like the hard questions, but here's the obvious one - that must be mentioned/asked: Did you crank the living piss out of the volume (ie, "jammin' to the tunes at mach 9") before it stopped working properly?

From what you say, water damage may be coming up on the list in terms of % of possibility.

Water and electricity get along just fine, but not in a way that humans appreciate, with respect to their electronics.

side note:
wow. First time I've heard a high power semi-auto rifle in a long time. Sounded 308'ish, supressor, etc..., AK-47 or FN in nature. Kinda wierd to hear the things you hear in films or war footatge, in your 'back yard' (about a 1/3 of a mile away). I live sandwiched between two gun ranges.

Jenner · 4th June 2006, 20:10

I just took delivery yesterday. I noticed this on the test drive and the salesman said it would be taken care of but I bought out of state/not from my local servicing dealer.

Testing the balance of the stereo is actually one of the tests on the CPO inspection. Besides this, the car was delivered to me low on oil, coolant, wiper fluid and missing the M mobility sealant. The drivers side wiper also disintegrated on the way home and the tires were over 50psi COLD.

Needless to say I am little upset.

I was under the impression that the CPO inspection/certification should have taken care of this LONG before I picked up the car and/or a PDI(pre delivery inspection) should have fixed these as well....

KBK · 4th June 2006, 20:14

Sounds almost exactly like my M when I bought it from a BMW dealer. Little things. Except my front tires had 20 psi in them. I foolishly did not check them out before driving 300 miles home. some spots I went a bit fast, too. With leathally low front tire pressure. Not good.

The 'inspection' didn't amount to much. Not too much at all. My car was without warranty, a slightly different situation. But I was still buying a 'cert' car from a BMW dealer.

Uusually it's competition with the different salesman, of who can manage to get their used cars into the shop..and actually be serviced..by a guy they bother and hassle on a daily basis. An antagonistic situation, at best. It least it can be that way, and usually is, unless the salesman is a real sweetheart, whish is unlikely at a 'high end' car lot.

The other thing, is the vast bulk of cars at a given lot are sold locally, so getting the car back and the customer satisfied is not such a big deal, so the folks involved aren't so worried about things not being properly dealt with, the first time around.

The whole translation of the above is that..well.. likely the shop didn't know it was a 'long distance' sale. And the sales guy forgot to hound them on it.

After all, like a hooker who hasn't been paid but the guy already said his piece.... you had already been sold the car, before you picked it up.

Jenner · 4th June 2006, 20:20

LOL well at least I'm not alone...so what's the point of the CPO inspection?

Worth calling this in to BMW NA or will they not care?

KBK · 4th June 2006, 20:58

I'd say that you have to give the dealership the opportunity to 'do you a solid' first. Then go to BMW NA, if that becomes a bad situation. Be open to compromise, suggest some. Like photos of the offending parts, possibly sending them the amp and having them send you a new one, etc.

Or, propose bringing the car to a local BMW dealer, have it assessed there, and the report of the situation signed by them (local shop) and you, and that sent to the dealership you bought it from.

If faults are found, the shop you bought from comes clear on the total, which is the shop assessment too. Get their aproval before doing it, though, otherwise they may try and back out on the assessment costs. They may want to send you a used DSP amp they have in their shop, etc. Be open to aiding them in helping you. Tellthem things like, if it turns out to be a bad amplifier box, well... give them an opportunity to find you a new/used one, and send that to you, with a clear 'end time' for that option to be open. But check on that leak, as well. Propose a relatively low priced alternative to deal with the leak,as you dang well know that they'd spend as little as possible on fixing it. Ie, a spot of used bubble gum jammed into the right tiny leak hole. Take the small funds they give you, add to that, and get it fixed right (if nessesary). Etc, etc.

Give them options, ask for options, remain freindly. That takes away any antagonistic positions, to pre-empt any ugliness. Do not bring out the idea of calling BMW NA on them, unless it is a last resort, because they are trying to steer you down a path that costs -you- MORE money. Let them be the good guys, instead of trying to push them down that path.