BMW M5 Forum and M6 Forums banner

My leather treatment clinic

62K views 151 replies 60 participants last post by  vics  
#1 ·
Guys, after speaking to one of the best folks in the business, I went through a fairly extensive leather care exercise and I wanted to share my experience. To begin with, I want to give credit to Larry Reynolds, owner of Car Care Online (http://www.carcareonline.com/). He's a very knowledgeable and nice guy, and a true car aficionado – he’s about to replace his 996 911 GT2 (which has something like 70K of all track miles!) with a brand new 997 911 GT2 (or 3 perhaps). So I followed his advice on taking care of my leather interior. Keep in mind I have the full/extended leather option (dash, full doors, etc.) so it is a lot more detailed than for folks with the Sport/2-tone option. And considering that the leather has seen some sun over the years, it was in need for a full 'day spa' treatment.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

So here is what he recommended I do, and I followed to the t. It is fairly involved, but half of the procedure I am about to outline below is more of a one-time job and the regular maintenance is far less manually intensive, so don’t freak out: <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Step 1: You need to thoroughly clean the leather to essentially 'open' up the pores. Imagine a human body - you need to give it some good scrubbing and let the leather 'breath' before you apply the various treatments and conditioners. The pores have been clogged from dust, grime, and of course human contact. So first step is to use the Lexol pH Leather Cleaner: http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=10701

<O:p</O:p
Image


You simply use a kitchen sponge which you dampen beforehand so it doesn't absorb the cleaner itself. As you vigorously scrub the leather, it will form a soapy-looking foam, but don't worry, it goes away easily. With this and the other products listed below, there is no such thing as applying too much. The leather will absorb everything it can and anything it doesn't soak up anymore, you can simply wipe off. You will notice a totally new shine in your leather, but wait, that is nothing compared to what follows…

<O:p</O:pStep 2: Next step is to apply this honey-looking substance, which is essentially a leather enricher and softener (think of it as leather food). It is called (not misspelled) Surflex Leather "Soffener" http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=11951 <O:p</O:p
Image


The application is a bit tricky, I found best to use a cotton glass cleaning cloth and literally swirl it around my index finger and apply it that way. This is the messiest part of the entire exercise, as this thing really looks like honey and will mess up the plastic surrounding trim/windows/paneling, so be patient. This is not the time to worry too much about messing up your plastic trim, it comes off easily (I used an ammonia-free glass cleaner in a spray bottle in the last step outlined below to do all the cleaning up, but arguably you can use the Lexol Leather pH cleaner as per above.). Just careful not to apply any of it to the alcantara, they don't go well together at all, trust me on this one ;-o))
<O:p</O:p
Now here is an important point, maybe a bit anal, but works especially well for all the spots that have been heavily hit by the sun (e.g. dashboard, top of door panels - something that the no-cost option equipped two-tone/sports interior M5s don’t need to worry about). After you apply the 'honey' softener, it is best you cover the freshly applied area with a saran wrap. You essentially want to keep away any evaporation of the softener. So apply it, cover it, and let it soak/suffocate (under sun preferably) for a few days. You may want to do the rear headrests and top of the rear bench seat like that too as they get the most punishment from the sun rays. After you are done with this, your leather will be softer than your living room La-Z-Boy chair :) This entire step to me is a one time thing (or say one time a year), after you have 'fed' your leather, steps 3 and 4 is all you need as regular maintenance. <O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p

Step 3: After you’ve let it stay for a couple or more days, you will notice that some areas have absorbed the 'honey' softener more than others. Don't worry about seeing these spots, perfectly normal, after all, we are talking about natural leather here that has varying absorption characteristics, especially after the dyeing process. Take the same ammonia-free cleaner as mentioned above but use a little of it, all you need is to quickly wipe off the entire surface area, don't scrub it in as you don't want it to eat in the leather softener, a simple one stroke application will do the trick. This will eliminate the 'spots' and ensure the leather is uniform all around. Next comes the Lexol Neatsfoot Formula Restorer http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=10715. <O:p</O:p
Image


There are various ways to apply it, I continued to use a dampened kitchen sponge (a new one though, not the one you applied the leather cleaner with). This step is much faster than step 2. Once done, I would let it sit for another couple of days.

<O:p</O:pStep 4: Final step is the leather conditioner, specifically the Lexol Leather Conditioner: http://www.carcareonline.com/detail.asp?product_id=10706. You can use this year round, and perhaps repeat step 3 every so often should you feel the leather is drying up/getting a bit dull.<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
<O:p</O:p
Image



I should have taken pictures before and after, but got carried away. Trust me, the difference is dramatic! I even took the headrests home and especially under light, it is amazing. To the eye, and to the touch! You won't regret it. Just make sure you take your time, for one to let the leather treatments sink it, and two, perhaps most importantly, not to get the gentler sex completely mad at you for devoting time away from her! If this were to happen, you can easily make reference to the certainly-more-than-4 leather treatments she stores behind the bathroom mirror (and likely her anti-wrinkle cream is more expensive than all of the above combined!) :2:
<O:p</O:p
 
#2 ·
Cosio,

Thanks for a very informative thread there! It's a pity you did not do the before/after picture session, but judging by your comments it must look good!

I myself firmly believe in taking good care of leather seats. I have been using the BMW leather care range available here and the results are good. It certainly helps in maintaining the "new look" interior!

Best regards,

Rudi
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks, guys. I figured since I am going through all this effort, might as well document it for future reference.

I will try to make some pics of the conditioned leather over the weekend, although I am a idiot for not doing a before and after comparo... ouich

PS
Actually, come to think of it, I have an untreated leather panel at home, which at some point I will replace with my current one in the car that has a nick, so I can compare those alongside of eachother.
 
#7 ·
Leather dash care

I have used the softener product on my 88 m5 and recently on my 20002 m5. I was concerned about the dash due to problems I had on an 87 M6 with leather dash. I have been told to use 303 protectant. I have used this on boats in the past with good success. Does anyone have experience with 303 on a leather dash. Thank you
 
#8 ·
Great post, very informative. However, I would be interested to see how the leather looks/feels after some time. I have the full leather package in my beast as well. My Benzo didn't like leather treatment too well and in fact it looked worse after a few days. Granted, I didn't use Lexol products but now I'm a paranoid freak as a result.
-D
 
#9 ·
Before and after pics

Due to popular demand, here are a few before-and-after pics.

Since I didn't take any pictures of the interior before and after (something I regret), I took out one of the treated headrests and compared it to an untreated leather panel I have sitting at home waiting to be installed in the place of my nicked one.

I will make some pics this weekend of the car itself under daylight, these are at night under artificial light, but enough to see the huge difference. I think the flash made it seem much shinier than it is in actuality (trust me, it doesn't look like you applied a cheap can of armorall), and it is not greasy to the touch.
 

Attachments

#11 ·
Thanks cosioboy, great write-up.

Any opinions as to the best smelling leather conditioning product, i.e. which smells the most natural or has that great "just from the factory" smell? I have used the Lexol Leather Conditioner for years and have generally been pleased but I seem to recall that others on the Board mentioned the "olfactory" superiority of other products.
 
#12 ·
Your pictures look pretty shiny. Is it really as shiny as it looks, especially the shots with flash?

I guess this is personal preference, but I hate shiny leather seats. Too me it makes the interior look very old. I am so anal about not getting my leather shiny that I always wash off any hand lotion I might have on my hands before touching my steering wheel.

Is there anything I can do to keep my leather from becoming shiny?
 
#13 ·
Very thorough job. I always do #1 and #4 with Lexol. Never tried 2 and 3...might have to try one day.
 
#14 ·
Hi Nick:
I have used Lexol and Zano Z10. Both produced good
results but did not last very long. The best product I've
found is Griot's Leather Care. Much thicker product but
still goes on easily. The Griot's produces a soft, satin
sheen that looks new but not too shinny. The smell
is like new leather or as close to "new care smell" as I've
found. I'm pretty compulsive about taking care of
my cars but I have not felt it necessary to do the extensive
Leatherique type treatment yet. I just vacuum
thoroughly. If dirty, use Lexol Cleaner. The Griot's Leather Care lasts about 6 months but the car is garaged. If exposed to more sun I would propably have to treat more frequently.
Stacey
 
#15 ·
andye39s said:
Your pictures look pretty shiny. Is it really as shiny as it looks, especially the shots with flash?

I guess this is personal preference, but I hate shiny leather seats. Too me it makes the interior look very old. I am so anal about not getting my leather shiny that I always wash off any hand lotion I might have on my hands before touching my steering wheel.

Is there anything I can do to keep my leather from becoming shiny?
Same, I like it soft but not shiny.

Cosioboy:
Great write up and thanks for giving us the step by step.
A few of questions.
1) Wrap everything in saran wrap? Did you do your seats too or just the dash because of the sun?
2) Is there a step, #3 or #4 that if we don't do the leather will not be as shiny?
3) Did you apply the Honey Soffener with your hands? Or was that a cloth? It sounds like a very thin cloth, like a flour sak? Was that also damp when you started?
4) After cleaning the leather to open the pours, you DID NOT wipe it off did you, you went right into the Soffener?

OK, that was more than a few. ouich thanks for the info.
gavin
 
#16 ·
I have also find very good luck with ZYMOL leather. It is very expensive but worth it. I also wax the outside with ZYMOL Wax. THE BEST

GOOD LUCK
 
#18 ·
Sorry I couldn't address all your questions earlier guys. Here you go:

eric77 said:
Great writeup. I currently have a ton of lexol, but I think I am going to have to pick up some of that softener for my car.
Thx. The Soffener definitely makes a huge difference in terms of feel. But it is the messiest part of the entire exercise, however well worth it.

gbogh3 said:
Great write up and thanks for giving us the step by step.
A few of questions.
1) Wrap everything in saran wrap? Did you do your seats too or just the dash because of the sun?
2) Is there a step, #3 or #4 that if we don't do the leather will not be as shiny?
3) Did you apply the Honey Soffener with your hands? Or was that a cloth? It sounds like a very thin cloth, like a flour sak? Was that also damp when you started?
4) After cleaning the leather to open the pours, you DID NOT wipe it off did you, you went right into the Soffener?
Gavin, here are my answers:
1) The saran wrap is recommended only for the parts that see the most beating from the sun. If you have the extended leather option, that would be the dash and the top of the door panels, in addition to the rear headrests and top of bench seat.
2) I think the camera flash distorted a bit how shiny the leather really is, I really mean it exaggerated it. The leather looks rich, especially after a few days of the final application. It doesn't look as glossy and oily as though you applied a can of armorall. If you want less 'richness', then go easy on the Soffener as it likely contributes to the most, as this is what really 'sinks' in the leather after you apply the cleaner and open the pores. Or if you feel you put too much, you can wipe off any excess before you put the Neatsfoot.
3) Yes, to apply the softener, I used a soft thin cloth, wrapped it around my index finger which especially helps reaching some of the tough areas, and also you can be more precise about not messing up any of the surrounding plastic/alcantara trim with the Soffener. I used a bag of 4 white Window Cleaning cloths which I found in the neighboring Pep Boys. It is almost like a table cloth, except thiner. I didn't dampen this one (contrary to the cleaner).
4) Correct, you don't need to wipe off anything after step one. The cleaner simply does what is supposed to - cleans the residue and doesn't leave anything that needs to be wiped away.


andye39 said:
Your pictures look pretty shiny. Is it really as shiny as it looks, especially the shots with flash?

I guess this is personal preference, but I hate shiny leather seats. Too me it makes the interior look very old. I am so anal about not getting my leather shiny that I always wash off any hand lotion I might have on my hands before touching my steering wheel.

Is there anything I can do to keep my leather from becoming shiny?
Andy,

See my response to Gavin's question 2 as per above. I will try and take a couple of pics next weekend under bright sun now that the leather has been treated for a week or so, you will see it is not glittery, just a deep rich black finish. Maybe a touch shinier than when the leather was brand new, but nothing alarming. Trust me, I am not a fan of bling, and hate when a leather is treated with armorall or other greasy/shiny lacquered substance.



M Macht said:
Thanks cosioboy, great write-up.

Any opinions as to the best smelling leather conditioning product, i.e. which smells the most natural or has that great "just from the factory" smell? I have used the Lexol Leather Conditioner for years and have generally been pleased but I seem to recall that others on the Board mentioned the "olfactory" superiority of other products.
Thx M Macht. As far as the 'new car small', maybe you'll feel dissapointed, but you won't be left witht he feeling you just picked her up from the assembly line. I think the new carpetting + trim in brand new vehicles has a lot to do with the smell, leather alone won't bring it back. With that said, it will smell different than before, and nicer of course. It is very subtle, notcieable to folks, but different than if you were to put a hanging tree deodorizer on your mirror.

The Soffener is odorless. The most 'smelly' is the Neatsfoot but is quite pleasant. Overall, once you are done, the closest I can resemble the smell in the car is that of a honey comb.

Hope this helps.
 
#21 ·
STamulinas said:
The best product I've
found is Griot's Leather Care. Much thicker product but
still goes on easily.
Second on this comment. I apply religiously and have had excellent results, not too shiney and keeps the leather nice and soft-- In fact, thanks for the reminder, I need to reorder, Kevin
 
#23 ·
cosioboy said:
4) Correct, you don't need to wipe off anything after step one. The cleaner simply does what is supposed to - cleans the residue and doesn't leave anything that needs to be wiped away.
.
Thanks for answering the questions. I have used Lexol with my other BMW's. The last car I had, I had light grey leather. When I used the cleaner it would remove the dirt and help clean it, but I always wiped it off because it looked dirty. Now when I did wipe it off, the leather was still damp from the cleaner, OR maybe I was using too much.:rolleyes:
Is it possible you may not have seen some of the dirt becuase you have black? Or quite possible my interior was FLITHYouich
 
#24 ·
gbogh3 said:
Thanks for answering the questions. I have used Lexol with my other BMW's. The last car I had, I had light grey leather. When I used the cleaner it would remove the dirt and help clean it, but I always wiped it off because it looked dirty. Now when I did wipe it off, the leather was still damp from the cleaner, OR maybe I was using too much.:rolleyes:
Is it possible you may not have seen some of the dirt becuase you have black? Or quite possible my interior was FLITHYouich
I am pretty sure none of the coloring came out, after all Lexol designed the cleaner just to clean, not erode from the leather's color ;-o))

I used a damp kitchen sponge, orange in color, and clearly what was left was dirt deposits, not leather dye. It is perfectly safe.
 
#26 ·
04ImolaZHP said:
has anyone used the leather cleaner/conditioner provided by bmw? i have used it a couple of times a year and am overall happy with it. it is not phenomenal but is relatively easy. any comments?
I used to before I did the process outlined above. Results are very different, but so is the manual labor involved. The BMW one doesn't bring out the lusted in the leather and within a couple of weeks you can't really tell if the leather was treated.

Note that step 2 (Soffener) above is really like a one-time (a year or longer) application. This is really meant to saturate the dried out leather (works especially well on the leather dash which absorbes the most direct sunlight). Otherwise you can simply use the cleaner (step 1), then Neatsfoot (step 3), and every now and then 'rejuvinate' it with the Conditioner (step 4).